Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: TheBoy on 14 January 2007, 19:45:49
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Looked at it today in proper daylight.
No coolant in header tank
Mayo under oil filler cap
Dipstick does NOT look like it has mayo, Tunnie confirmed.
Symptons, so she says, when it went was lack of power. Also, no heat in car.
So, is it still HG, or do I need to check something else first...
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You mentioned temp guauge shot up?
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no heat is because no heat getting to Matrix.
so where's the coolant gone.. :-/
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Still sounds to me like early headgasket failure.
Can you put some coolant in and try fire it up, see if it misses?
Maybe a compressions test before we pull it apart?
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You mentioned temp guauge shot up?
She rang me because of lack of power - I told her to check temp, she said 3/4, so she switched off.
She also has said she thought something drip on her leg, but wasn't sure if she imagined it....
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Mayo under cap? It does a few short journeys, but daily does 20 miles each way to work...?
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may be worth a look to see if there are any signs of coolant in the car from a broken matrix
I would verify her lack of power diagnosis until you've put some coolant in and tried to get it going?
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Would the oil and water seperate - when I asked her to check oil colour (I was in Illford at time) she said a horrible light brown, and thick. But when you look at dipstick, I could see why she would she this under street lights, as bottom of dipstick has a plastic moulding that is tan brown?
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may be worth a look to see if there are any signs of coolant in the car from a broken matrix
I would verify her lack of power diagnosis until you've put some coolant in and tried to get it going?
She said it wouldn't go above 50mph...
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may be worth a look to see if there are any signs of coolant in the car from a broken matrix
I would verify her lack of power diagnosis until you've put some coolant in and tried to get it going?
Is heater matrix in cabin? Carpets feel dry to me...
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Can you put some coolant in and try fire it up, see if it misses?
When I moved it from the road to the driveway the other day, it seemed OK, but it was only running for a few seconds, and never got above 2000rpm...
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I must admit I've never seen one of them have mayo under the cap unless it's a HG failure.
Can you get access to a compression tester to confirm?
When my last K series blew it's gasket, the water leaked all down the front of the block..
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after i looked at the oil on my finger rather that dipstick, looked ok.
The dip stick is a stupid colour though at the tip... sniff in the coolant tank did have a slight rich petrol smell.
Btw James you defo working on Saturday? I am coming back Friday night to work on the Senny again at the weekend.
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I must admit I've never seen one of them have mayo under the cap unless it's a HG failure.
Can you get access to a compression tester to confirm?
When my last K series blew it's gasket, the water leaked all down the front of the block..
I have a tester I think, so long as it fits the plug holes. I shall try in morning.
Not sure how to use? Pull fuel pump fuse, put tester in cylinder and see reading when cranking?
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Is it worth dropping the oil, and seeing what its like?
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Do the compression test first, see what it comes back with. It might be obvious if it's low between two cyls.
Just disconnect something to stop it starting.. not sure about the newer models, but the K series I've always worked on had a coil and king lead!
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Jaime, As far as I am aware, the best way to test compression is indeed to pull fuel pump fuse then check the compression in each cylinder. They should be within 10% of each other (and damn high considering it is a diesel!)
It will probably take a little while for the engine to run out of fuel though as there is a reservoir I think.
Where is Mark when you need him? ;)
Remember, given time, oil and water will seperate and the oil will rise above the water.
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Jaime, As far as I am aware, the best way to test compression is indeed to pull fuel pump fuse then check the compression in each cylinder. They should be within 10% of each other (and damn high considering it is a diesel!)
Remember, given time, oil and water will seperate and the oil will rise above the water.
Its a 1.6 Petrol LB66...
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Why the heck did I think it was a diesel??? :-[
Well it is dead easy to test compression then! :)
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Why the heck did I think it was a diesel??? :-[
Well it is dead easy to test compression then! :)
Probably coz you saw me in a rover diesel at Santa Pod? That wasn't mine, I'd borrowed it to tow the 'burger van'...
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heh, get out there with one of yer lights, and post up the results ;D
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heh, get out there with one of yer lights, and post up the results ;D
I think that is going to be a job for the morning, when I've found the tester... ...and daylight will be handy...
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For a compression test:
Kill ignition somehow..coils dont like working into a disconnected plug lead and can die as a result.
Stop injectors.
Open throttle fully and crank til you get a stable reading.
When a car loses its coolant the temp gauge goes high but is often missed (especially by the females of our species), as more coolant is lost the heater starts to go cold due to lack of circulation and the gauge goes normal or low because its not fully immersed in water anymore.
If its run for too long in this state the head gets very hot and may warp, exhaust valves can burn out and the gasket fails.
I would refill it with water and see how it runs then work through any symptoms.
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Do you still want to meet up next week, or shall we wait to confirm a diagnosis?
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Right, not hugely successful morning.
Assuming No 1 is nearest cambelt...
No 1, can't get plug out - the place that changed plugs last has left the rubber bit from plug socket on. I cannot get new socket on, even if I remove rubber from socket.
No 2 - about 11 - 12 bar
No 3 - about 6 bar
No 4 - about 6 bar
Due to depth of plug wells, I don't think I have a perfect seal with the gauge, so not 100% sure if conclusive?
Currently got the gauge stuck in No 4 >:( and having trouble getting it out (brass handle bit on the gauge isn't long enough so having to tighten/losen as best I can with long nose pliers)
Once I get it off, I will take Matchless's advice and take for a spin - is it OK to run on neat water, as I used all my coolant on Tunnies Senny last night.
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Should be ok for a spin on water only....just prey it doesn't freeze tonight (you can always drop the coolant again...)
Note, compression tests dont always show head gasket failure to well.....
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Should be ok for a spin on water only....just prey it doesn't freeze tonight (you can always drop the coolant again...)
Note, compression tests dont always show head gasket failure to well.....
Once I get that bloody gauge out, I will take for spin...
When driving it, how will I know if HG failed?
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Coolant loss plus pretty pressurised coolant system with engine running (hard pipes)
Exhaust looks like it should be sat on the flying scotsman if bad......its worth popping into a local garage and asking for a header tank sniff...
One other thing which is a give away....look on the back of the car, if you see a badge that says rover....and it is a 1.4/1.6/1.8.....
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Coolant loss plus pretty pressurised coolant system with engine running (hard pipes)
Exhaust looks like it should be sat on the flying scotsman if bad......its worth popping into a local garage and asking for a header tank sniff...
One other thing which is a give away....look on the back of the car, if you see a badge that says rover....and it is a 1.4/1.6/1.8.....
When I first saw it last week, the header tank had that rich smell that you get if you stand behind your Omega and start it when cold....
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One other thing which is a give away....look on the back of the car, if you see a badge that says rover....and it is a 1.4/1.6/1.8.....
PMSL ;D ;D ;D
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Right, put some water in coolant and started here up, missed all over the place. That is the coil pack that sits over number 1 - I think the rubber bung left on by garage has caused a poor connection, and there is nothing left of the connector in the coil pack. Clean it up as a bodge, and misfire gone.
Let it idle up to temperature, seemed OK.
Still no hot air out of heater.
Revved it to about 4 - 5k, and everything lots of steam/smoke out the back. Now it is a bit nippy out today, but this was a LOT of white smoke. On idle, just a whisper of white smoke.
Switched off, checked dipstick, definately a bit creamy, not really thick, not that is defo not neat oil.
So HG gone? I'm pretty convinced.
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sounds like it, when reving the senny last night that was smoky too due it being so cold. I remember my 2.2 doing the same, on that oil change a week earlier.
But i take it there was loads more smoke than that?
Shame I can't be around end of the week :(
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sounds like it, when reving the senny last night that was smoky too due it being so cold. I remember my 2.2 doing the same, on that oil change a week earlier.
But i take it there was loads more smoke than that?
Shame I can't be around end of the week :(
More white smoke than I have ever seen from it, even when cold.
But the creamy texture to oil really sticks a nail in the coffin in my book....
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sounds like it, when reving the senny last night that was smoky too due it being so cold. I remember my 2.2 doing the same, on that oil change a week earlier.
But i take it there was loads more smoke than that?
Shame I can't be around end of the week :(
More white smoke than I have ever seen from it, even when cold.
But the creamy texture to oil really sticks a nail in the coffin in my book....
Hmmmm i take it the goo is in header tank then...
any chances of a pic?
ps isnt it amazing the variations that we name water/ oil contamination
mayo / goo / porridge / chocolate :o
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sounds like it, when reving the senny last night that was smoky too due it being so cold. I remember my 2.2 doing the same, on that oil change a week earlier.
But i take it there was loads more smoke than that?
Shame I can't be around end of the week :(
More white smoke than I have ever seen from it, even when cold.
But the creamy texture to oil really sticks a nail in the coffin in my book....
Hmmmm i take it the goo is in header tank then...
any chances of a pic?
ps isnt it amazing the variations that we name water/ oil contamination
mayo / goo / porridge / chocolate :o
Header tank is clear.
Which is odd, as heater is not working, so I suspected full of gunk, but as said, header tank clear :-/. Airlock stopping heater?
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sounds like it, when reving the senny last night that was smoky too due it being so cold. I remember my 2.2 doing the same, on that oil change a week earlier.
But i take it there was loads more smoke than that?
Shame I can't be around end of the week :(
More white smoke than I have ever seen from it, even when cold.
But the creamy texture to oil really sticks a nail in the coffin in my book....
Hmmmm i take it the goo is in header tank then...
any chances of a pic?
ps isnt it amazing the variations that we name water/ oil contamination
mayo / goo / porridge / chocolate :o
Header tank is clear.
Which is odd, as heater is not working, so I suspected full of gunk, but as said, header tank clear :-/. Airlock stopping heater?
Heaters - well we are on about a black art here now.
It could be anything, but I would flush it anyway.
Can be blocked with gunge, moved sediment, air locks, or even hot water not getting to the heater plumbing
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JamesV6CDX - I could really use that shopping list as tomorrow (Tues) is my last chance to get stuff. It will have to be Motorserv, who aren't too bad, but want £70 + VAT for HG....
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Be with you by 9pm mate
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Be with you by 9pm mate
Ta :y
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I will review this later, but at the mo I can think of:
Necessary:
* Top end gasket set preferable.
(At minimum, head gasket, rocket gasket, exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets. Thermostat housing gasket)
* New head bolts
* New oil and filter
* Antifereze (for 50/50 mix)
Preferable:
* New spark plugs
* Timing belt KIT (with new tensioner)
* Water pump
* Aux belt
I'm trying to locate my camlock tool, but they're not expensive (£5)
At the moment I'm feeling as rough as buggery with a cold, but I'm dosing myself up so I don't forsee a problem ;D
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Be with you by 9pm mate
Ta :y
Are you off to EH MK? can you pick up a Senator oil filter?
Got one from the local here to do on Saturday, but they only ever stock 1. Suspect EH MK might be the same....
Part Number: 903156302, it should be £2.31 + vat
Cheers :y
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I will review this later, but at the mo I can think of:
Necessary:
* Top end gasket set preferable.
(At minimum, head gasket, rocket gasket, exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets. Thermostat housing gasket)
* New head bolts
* New oil and filter
* Antifereze (for 50/50 mix)
Preferable:
* New spark plugs
* Timing belt KIT (with new tensioner)
* Water pump
* Aux belt
I'm trying to locate my camlock tool, but they're not expensive (£5)
At the moment I'm feeling as rough as buggery with a cold, but I'm dosing myself up so I don't forsee a problem ;D
Do the bolts come as a set, or do I need to specify how many...
Do I need to buy thermostat, someone said may as well change?
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What year/model and I'll look up the number of bolts for you.
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What year/model and I'll look up the number of bolts for you.
Rover 25 1.6, W reg, built Feb 2000
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Cylinder Head Bolts
Retain original position, clean and lubricate threads. With cylinder head removed screw bolts in finger tight. Measure between block face and underside of bolt.
Maximum bolt length = 97 mm.
Alternatively remove oil rail and screw the bolts in finger tight. If full lenght of thread engages, the bolt can be reused. If not measure between top face of oil rail and underside of bolt head.
Maximum bolt length = 378 mm.
9 5 1 3 7
Front
10 6 2 4 8
Stage 1 20nm
Stage 2 180 deg
Stage 3 180 deg
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Cylinder Head Bolts
Retain original position, clean and lubricate threads. With cylinder head removed screw bolts in finger tight. Measure between block face and underside of bolt.
Maximum bolt length = 97 mm.
Alternatively remove oil rail and screw the bolts in finger tight. If full lenght of thread engages, the bolt can be reused. If not measure between top face of oil rail and underside of bolt head.
Maximum bolt length = 378 mm.
9 5 1 3 7
Front
10 6 2 4 8
Stage 1 20nm
Stage 2 180 deg
Stage 3 180 deg
Would it be best to replace bolts anyway?
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Well I would, because if you find the originals to be no good, then you've got another trip to the dealers.
The only down side is if they're after market ones, you could have the same problem as Mark.
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Definately new bolts...
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Well I would, because if you find the originals to be no good, then you've got another trip to the dealers.
The only down side is if they're after market ones, you could have the same problem as Mark.
Dealers? Its a bloody Rover! I suspect the dealers no longer exist ;)
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At the moment I'm feeling as rough as buggery with a cold, but I'm dosing myself up so I don't forsee a problem ;D
If you do fancy coming up night before, we can burn the cold out with a beer and curry ;)
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Sounds like a plan :)
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So is it worth changing thermostat then?
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If it's a reaonable cost, can't hurt....
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I personally still think, that the heater isn't working, because the water jacket is pressurising due to a blowing HG, causing airlocks and not enough coolant to reach there...
Are we changing the cam belt kit?
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no gunk in header :o any on dipstick ? :-/ slightly unusual.....
change head bolts and yes replace thermo... :y
if you need them - these guys are good but not cheap for parts www.rimmerbros.co.uk
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I personally still think, that the heater isn't working, because the water jacket is pressurising due to a blowing HG, causing airlocks and not enough coolant to reach there...
Are we changing the cam belt kit?
If I can get the bits, it makes sense ;)
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no gunk in header :o any on dipstick ? :-/ slightly unusual.....
change head bolts and yes replace thermo... :y
if you need them - these guys are good but not cheap for parts www.rimmerbros.co.uk
After running, the dipstick goes slightly creamy. Leave it a few hours, and its back to oil on dipstick, as if the oil/water seperate...
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Although I've done a few of these, I'm no expert, but I still think HG. it's the only thing that ever goes wrong on these motors!!
Changing the cam belt is a bit of a pain in the arse because it means taking an engine mount off and supporting the engine, BUT I'm very pleased we're doing it, because it's well worth it while the heads off.
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Although I've done a few of these, I'm no expert, but I still think HG. it's the only thing that ever goes wrong on these motors!!
Changing the cam belt is a bit of a pain in the arse because it means taking an engine mount off and supporting the engine, BUT I'm very pleased we're doing it, because it's well worth it while the heads off.
You may have to bring your jack - mine may have failed. I certainly do not want to trust it...
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Although I've done a few of these, I'm no expert, but I still think HG. it's the only thing that ever goes wrong on these motors!!
Changing the cam belt is a bit of a pain in the arse because it means taking an engine mount off and supporting the engine, BUT I'm very pleased we're doing it, because it's well worth it while the heads off.
While we've got it apart, it makes sense to to the cambelt...
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It sure does... bit concerned about the jack though, because mine also has a habit of creeping down and I wouldn't trust it as far as I can throw it (which isn't very far!) :-/ Anyone local to you with a trolley jack?
What tools have you got Jaime, and what should I bring?
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It sure does... bit concerned about the jack though, because mine also has a habit of creeping down and I wouldn't trust it as far as I can throw it (which isn't very far!) :-/ Anyone local to you with a trolley jack?
What tools have you got Jaime, and what should I bring?
My jack was holding up the back of the MV6 when I was checking a spring, when it made a massive bang, and dropped a little (I was using the jack and axle stand to equally take weight). It jacked up again to remove the axle stand OK, but doesn't go up much now with each stroke.... ....I reckon it will support/lift engine, but may be worth putting a block under engine as well.
I have 'standard' tools - ie socket sets, torx, spanners etc. No specialist tools. I have a really big hammer if it all goes wrong...
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It sure does... bit concerned about the jack though, because mine also has a habit of creeping down and I wouldn't trust it as far as I can throw it (which isn't very far!) :-/ Anyone local to you with a trolley jack?
What tools have you got Jaime, and what should I bring?
My jack was holding up the back of the MV6 when I was checking a spring, when it made a massive bang, and dropped a little (I was using the jack and axle stand to equally take weight). It jacked up again to remove the axle stand OK, but doesn't go up much now with each stroke.... ....I reckon it will support/lift engine, but may be worth putting a block under engine as well.
I have 'standard' tools - ie socket sets, torx, spanners etc. No specialist tools. I have a really big hammer if it all goes wrong...
Ahhh...Sammy Sledge ;D Dont forget Percy Pick... ;D
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It sure does... bit concerned about the jack though, because mine also has a habit of creeping down and I wouldn't trust it as far as I can throw it (which isn't very far!) :-/ Anyone local to you with a trolley jack?
What tools have you got Jaime, and what should I bring?
My jack was holding up the back of the MV6 when I was checking a spring, when it made a massive bang, and dropped a little (I was using the jack and axle stand to equally take weight). It jacked up again to remove the axle stand OK, but doesn't go up much now with each stroke.... ....I reckon it will support/lift engine, but may be worth putting a block under engine as well.
I have 'standard' tools - ie socket sets, torx, spanners etc. No specialist tools. I have a really big hammer if it all goes wrong...
Ahhh...Sammy Sledge ;D Dont forget Percy Pick... ;D
Sammy appears to have gone walkabout, but Percy is alive and well, as is a couple of little 4lb club hammers....
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I have got,
Torque wrenches, 1/2 and 3/8 drive,
normal Ratchets and metric sockets
Torx sockets
spanners
all usual stuff like grips, screwdrivers
to be honest, there aren't many specialist tools required for this job.
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I have got,
Torque wrenches, 1/2 and 3/8 drive,
normal Ratchets and metric sockets
Torx sockets
spanners
all usual stuff like grips, screwdrivers
to be honest, there aren't many specialist tools required for this job.
worth bringing - if you're like me you probably prefer your own tools anyway?
camlock?
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Camlock is essential no matter what haynes says...'ll look out the camlock, but like I say, £5 draper job if I can't find it....
Only other thing we may need is an angle measurer, like a fool I lent mine out and haven't seen it since.....
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Camlock is essential no matter what haynes says...'ll look out the camlock, but like I say, £5 draper job if I can't find it....
Only other thing we may need is an angle measurer, like a fool I lent mine out and haven't seen it since.....
Anyone know where I can get an angle measuring tool in Milton Keynes?
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I think even Halfrauds do them for £9.99.....
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I think even Halfrauds do them for £9.99.....
I shall wander over to Halfrauds tomorrow morning, and see what they have amongst the chav accessories.... :y
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while you're there, we may need carb cleaner, and something to clean the head surface, eg some fine wet and dry.. (unless anyone has any other better ways of cleaning heads..)
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while you're there, we may need carb cleaner, and something to clean the head surface, eg some fine wet and dry.. (unless anyone has any other better ways of cleaning heads..)
Carb cleaner already on shopping list :y
Is those green kitchen scourer things too harsh? I'll see if Halfords do wet and dry...
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It needs to be harsh enough to clean off the gasket crap that gets stuck to it, but no so much so to scratch the head....
I always use a wet and dry, but I've heard others disagree with that, I guess it's just preference or what you're used to.
Would be nice if Mark could advise on this one actually....
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Green Scouring pads shouldn't scratch the surface.
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you could have borrowed my jack... its basically the same as yours.
If your seriously stuck for a jack, i'll check when mother is in and you have it if u need it.
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you could have borrowed my jack... its basically the same as yours.
If your seriously stuck for a jack, i'll check when mother is in and you have it if u need it.
May come in handy my friend, I'm sure Jaime will let you know...... ;D
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In case it helps, check out your local Aldi store from thursday onwards....
heavy duty seat covers - £4.99 a set
wing protectors (for when working on car): £3.99
trolley jack, £9.99
foldaway car creeper, £11.99
foldable axle stands & wheel chocks, £5.99 a set
workshop lamp, £4.99
Trolley jack is 2 tonne, TUV approved and has a 3yr warranty.
I've used Aldi stuff before (computer, other electrical bits and bobs, tools etc) and they are not always bad, but some are really kack, but check it out first.
HtH
B
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I've been to the motor factors, and they have relieved me of a large wedge... ...I think I have everything now...
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Tools aside, how much for all the bits for the repair?
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Tools aside, how much for all the bits for the repair?
Only tools were angular gauge and some wet and dry. All bits came to just shy over £300, not including coolant which I got from Vx. The shocker for price was spark plugs - £32 a set :o - but despite dealer servicing up to last year, I reckon those buggers were original >:(
Roughly:
Gasket set £70
Head Bolts £50
Cambelt kit £50
Water pump £40
Plugs £32
Aux belt £12
Thermostat £6
Oil Filters (I got 2 as I expect I will need to change oil regularly now to get rid of mayo) £11
Plus some Carb cleaner (Tunnie nicked my last load) and freezer/release spray came to around £20...
So, ready to go methinks. Not sure if I'm secretly looking forward to it, or am dreading it...
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Of course you're looking forward to it!!!
Did you find a camlocker?
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£11 for 2 oil filters!
Blimey even the Senny ones are £2.41 a pop from Vx (£4.61 retail)
Got a fairly full tin of carb cleaner, have to give u that back at the weekend :y
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Of course you're looking forward to it!!!
Did you find a camlocker?
Ah, you didn't find yours then.
Not sure if anywhere round here will do them. Is it just the cam lock? Would one from a v6 camlock kit work?
I am near a Halfords tomorrow, and a little backstreet motor factors - I doubt either of those would have one?
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backstreet one is more likely than the halfords to be honest
it CAN be done without one when there's 2 of you, because all it does is hold the sprockets in place. I'll give you a bell if I get one.
Will Mrs. TheBoy be home on Thurs to make us tea ;D
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backstreet one is more likely than the halfords to be honest
it CAN be done without one when there's 2 of you, because all it does is hold the sprockets in place. I'll give you a bell if I get one.
Will Mrs. TheBoy be home on Thurs to make us tea ;D
Alas no, I'll be on tea making duty and bacon butty duty >:(
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is it a generic camlocker, or specific to rover? Is it just the wedge that locks the cams?
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You could have got the plugs from Vauxhall as they have extended the trade club range to cover all makes on service items....
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Ah well...
Draper usually make these, it just slots between the cams sprockets and holds them in place... and stops them from springing back under valve spring pressure
they don't set anything in the way of timing..
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You could have got the plugs from Vauxhall as they have extended the trade club range to cover all makes on service items....
I nearly did, but apperently Rover state that it takes these platinum tipped ones :(
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Ah well...
Draper usually make these, it just slots between the cams sprockets and holds them in place... and stops them from springing back under valve spring pressure
they don't set anything in the way of timing..
Will the ones from a v6 camlock kit do the job?
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different make of car...
There is a chance... but it all depends on how far apart the sprockets are from each other
the rover one looks considerably differnent from vx..
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i am pi$$ed off i have to be at uni end of this week, sounds like a fun job.
With free bacon buttys and tea supply, I could have brought the Senny around too >:(
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A certain piece of software reckons you need a camshaft locking tool and a flywheel locking tool
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vx cam lock wont do guys, get the Draper one for the Rover its just one small locking wedge.
Should get it cheap n decent motor factors as there about £5-£10 off ebay.
Whats make of (head) gasket did you get Jamie..?
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Whats make of (head) gasket did you get Jamie..?
One I'd never heard of - UltraPart. We have to take what we can get around here :'(
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It still says you need a flywheel locking tool ......as well as a cam locking tool.
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Whats make of (head) gasket did you get Jamie..?
One I'd never heard of - UltraPart. We have to take what we can get around here :'(
sell the Rover after you fix it - it WILL happen again in time im afraid :-/
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im thinking too, those head bolts were expensive - have you physically purchased `em Jamie?
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im thinking too, those head bolts were expensive - have you physically purchased `em Jamie?
Yeah, needed in a hurry, only 1 option around here really...
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Whats make of (head) gasket did you get Jamie..?
One I'd never heard of - UltraPart. We have to take what we can get around here :'(
sell the Rover after you fix it - it WILL happen again in time im afraid :-/
Its been good for 70k. If it lasts the same again, I will be more than happy...
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A camlock (only) bought. Draper one, £6.99.
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A camlock (only) bought. Draper one, £6.99.
Sounds about right :y
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A camlock (only) bought. Draper one, £6.99.
Sounds about right :y
Book says, remove starter motor, lock flywheel, after locking cams.....
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I believe JamesV6CDX has done this a few times before, so hopefully knows how to do it 'not by the book' ;)
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I believe JamesV6CDX has done this a few times before, so hopefully knows how to do it 'not by the book' ;)
Isn't there a flywheel locking tool in the V6 cam kit?
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I believe JamesV6CDX has done this a few times before, so hopefully knows how to do it 'not by the book' ;)
Isn't there a flywheel locking tool in the V6 cam kit?
Yeah, but unlikely it would fit I guess....
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I believe JamesV6CDX has done this a few times before, so hopefully knows how to do it 'not by the book' ;)
Isn't there a flywheel locking tool in the V6 cam kit?
Yeah, but unlikely it would fit I guess....
But then, as we are having the head off, we wouldn't want it at tdc anyway...
-
Forgot you're taking the head off, silly me :-[
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Is today the day? If so, best of luck :y
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Is today the day? If so, best of luck :y
Yup.
Couldn't have picked a worse day :'(
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Is today the day? If so, best of luck :y
Yup.
Couldn't have picked a worse day :'(
Hmmm, really feel for you, plenty of hot tea.....
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Nice and windy one today.....plus a bit of rain thrown in for good measure....
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Nice and windy one today.....plus a bit of rain thrown in for good measure....
Better clear out front half of garage to get the fron tend in. Didn't want to, as it will all be artificial light :(
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No big deal realy.....check the top of the bores for a wear lip whilst the head is off....there shoudln't be one but, you never know.
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No big deal realy.....check the top of the bores for a wear lip whilst the head is off....there shoudln't be one but, you never know.
OK, thanks.
Other problem with garage is, being a 6yr old house, the garage is quite narrow, esp drivers side (ie cambelt side :(
-
good luck guys, will check back frequently to watch progress ;) :y
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Best to drive it in at an angle so that the corner you need most access to is in and under the garage door...
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OK, HG postponed for today - JamesV6CDX has been delayed, and its blowing a gale here. The plan is to start at first light tomorrow...
-
OK, HG postponed for today - JamesV6CDX has been delayed, and its blowing a gale here. The plan is to start at first light tomorrow...
I think it's blowing a gale everywhere.....can't play golf. :(
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OK, HG postponed for today - JamesV6CDX has been delayed, and its blowing a gale here. The plan is to start at first light tomorrow...
I think it's blowing a gale everywhere.....can't play golf. :(
Get a back wind, you could get a good drive. Driving into the wind could prove challenging though....
-
OK, HG postponed for today - JamesV6CDX has been delayed, and its blowing a gale here. The plan is to start at first light tomorrow...
I think it's blowing a gale everywhere.....can't play golf. :(
Get a back wind, you could get a good drive. Driving into the wind could prove challenging though....
Course is water logged, closed for the day :(
-
OK, HG postponed for today - JamesV6CDX has been delayed, and its blowing a gale here. The plan is to start at first light tomorrow...
I think it's blowing a gale everywhere.....can't play golf. :(
Get a back wind, you could get a good drive. Driving into the wind could prove challenging though....
Course is water logged, closed for the day :(
Driving Range then....or computer golf :y
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OK, HG postponed for today - JamesV6CDX has been delayed, and its blowing a gale here. The plan is to start at first light tomorrow...
I think it's blowing a gale everywhere.....can't play golf. :(
Get a back wind, you could get a good drive. Driving into the wind could prove challenging though....
Course is water logged, closed for the day :(
Driving Range then....or computer golf :y
Need to be a floodlit range now....
I crap at computer golf. I'm even worse at proper golf :-[
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OK, HG postponed for today - JamesV6CDX has been delayed, and its blowing a gale here. The plan is to start at first light tomorrow...
I think it's blowing a gale everywhere.....can't play golf. :(
Get a back wind, you could get a good drive. Driving into the wind could prove challenging though....
Course is water logged, closed for the day :(
Driving Range then....or computer golf :y
Need to be a floodlit range now....
I crap at computer golf. I'm even worse at proper golf :-[
Too windy and cold for both ;)
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A camlock (only) bought. Draper one, £6.99.
Sounds about right :y
Book says, remove starter motor, lock flywheel, after locking cams.....
Computer says no..... ;D
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No, seriously, I've never removed the starter motor to do this job and I've never locked the flywheel to time it. There is, in my experience, a small blanking plate under the bellhousing, which allows access to the flywheel, so it's possible to get something onto the teeth to stop it moving, if the crankshaft pulley proves hard to get off.
Engine will be at 90 degrees before TDC for the head to be removed. That way no valves will contact, upon re-fitting. (Head is removed with cams in-situ). This way, the engine shouldn't need to be turned with the head off - in line with procedure.
Head needs to be lifted off extremely carefully on these engines (wet liners)
The newest K series engine I did was an R Reg, and I've done an N reg 414, and loads of earlier 214 16v K series heads, but Jaime's engine looks exactly the same as the R reg. I don't see it being a problem, the only thing I'm unfamilar with is the coil pack on Jaimes.
When sprockets lined up, the cams/crank can be set to the correct position, cams locked, and timing belt fitted. It will be then turned over by hand to ensure the marks all line up - if they do, it's all good - no need to lock flywheel (in my experience).
The plastic inlet manifold bolts/nuts on these are pretty easy to remove, so I usually drop the manifold back away from the head, saving time messing with a fair few fiddly bits.
If memory serves, the down-pipe is then dropped off the manifold, and the manifold comes off with the head. It CAN also be removed with the head in the car. This part can be a bit fiddly, but not too troublesome.
Water pump is held on by 8 8mm bolts, with a rubber O-ring. Changing this, because A they are prone to leaking (I've seen many of these leak).. and also obviously because the timing belt runs over it's pulley, so it's good practice to change it when we do the belt.
The timing belt tensioner is held on by an allen key (maybe torx on this model) bolt, and there is a small 8mm bolt which holds it in position for setting the tension. If I remember right, it's pretty much self tensioning by means of a spring on the tensioner, but I always double check it. I had an experience where the "self tension" clearly wasn't sufficient on one because the belt was wobbling (when cold), so I just took up slightly more play on the tensioner, which sorted it.
Rocker cover is held on with a million bolts, and rarely leak apart from the back right corner.
Hopefully we'll get this all done if we have a good day at it. If there are no complications, then I'm confident we will. Unfortunately I've had stuff going on at home and come this morning I'd not been to bed for 48 hours, so probably wasn't in the best frame of mind to tackle a head gasket ;)
I'm doing my best to get someone to work my Saturday, but unfortunately I'm down to be working nights over the weekend :(
If the worst happens though, I'm available Monday after lunch, and Tuesday and Wednesday all day.
The getting the new cambelt on can be a lenghty (but easy) job, as it involves jacking up the engine and removing the mounting. If it looks like we're going to be mega pushed for time, and the car is needed for the weekend, then it would be an option, to change the Head gasket to get it mobile, and postpone the belt change until one day next week, or the following Sunday, when I'm free all day. Totally understand it's due - but that may be an option to consider if time looks like a problem. We could also do the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals whist at the belt.
They're usually punctured with a small hole either side, a couple of self tappers inserted, and pulled out with pliers :)
My sincere apologies for the delay today, unfortunately it was out of my hands, these things happen when you have families :(
Jaime, I'll be with you in the morning mate, and we'll crack on and talk about it in more detail then
[smiley=thumbup.gif]
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No probs with delay, completely understand that the last day or 2 haven't been good for you. I really appreciate that, despite everything, you are still able to find the time to come over.
I've read the workshop manuals I have (the ones they gave to dealers), and it doesn't sound too bad at all. However, I don't think I would have the confidence to do this on my own - some jobs I just need someone to guide me the first time, then I'm OK to do it again and again (a bit like v6 cambelts).
What time do you think you will get here?
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What time does it get light :)
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What time does it get light :)
Just before 8am...
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What time does it get light :)
Just before 8am...
Between 8-9 then I guess! If for some horroble reason we don't finish it, Im still trying to get Sat off work, and failing that monday, tues and weds are all fine. Of course, we want it done tomorrow, but there is some contingency if not.
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What time does it get light :)
Just before 8am...
Between 8-9 then I guess! If for some horroble reason we don't finish it, Im still trying to get Sat off work, and failing that monday, tues and weds are all fine. Of course, we want it done tomorrow, but there is some contingency if not.
:y
Bacon, rolls, sauce, teabags, milk all in. We can tackle anything ;)
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I think this thread is absolutely brill. A real example of how relative strangers can meet in the middle of nowhere, get on and do summat constuctive to a mutual advantage......
As long as the job gets done....... ;D :y
Sorry peeps - been at the rouge/meds concoction again! (hic!) :-[
B
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Well, a bit later than planned, it's 7:30, and I'm just about to leave for Brackley. Should arrive at a reasonable hour giving us enough time to make a good job.
Also I think I may have got Saturday off if the job needs finishing, but not 100% until I talk to my boss. I've found someone to work my shift..
Just going to print my directions and hit the Road -
Jaime, it may be a bit after 9am now, depending on traffic on the M4/5, but bear with me as I'm on my way!!
;D
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Well, a bit later than planned, it's 7:30, and I'm just about to leave for Brackley. Should arrive at a reasonable hour giving us enough time to make a good job.
Also I think I may have got Saturday off if the job needs finishing, but not 100% until I talk to my boss. I've found someone to work my shift..
Just going to print my directions and hit the Road -
Jaime, it may be a bit after 9am now, depending on traffic on the M4/5, but bear with me as I'm on my way!!
;D
:y
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I think this thread is absolutely brill. A real example of how relative strangers can meet in the middle of nowhere, get on and do summat constuctive to a mutual advantage......
Aye, this forum is by far the best I have ever been on (and I consider myself an Internet (and BBS before) veteran), and I am truely humbled....
Now, I wonder if we can beat Allenm's "Oh Bugger" thread which I think ran to 20 odd pages ;D
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I think this thread is absolutely brill. A real example of how relative strangers can meet in the middle of nowhere, get on and do summat constuctive to a mutual advantage......
Aye, this forum is by far the best I have ever been on (and I consider myself an Internet (and BBS before) veteran), and I am truely humbled....
Now, I wonder if we can beat Allenm's "Oh Bugger" thread which I think ran to 20 odd pages ;D
We'll do our best :y
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well you seem to have planned really well so i reckon job done today!! :y
good luck guys :)
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Good luck guys! :y
You going to be pulling an all nighter?
Its just I am coming back from Uni tonight (yaY!) - So i should be back around 7ish with a bit of luck... if you need a 3rd pair of hands give us a shout :y
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I think this thread is absolutely brill. A real example of how relative strangers can meet in the middle of nowhere, get on and do summat constuctive to a mutual advantage......
Aye, this forum is by far the best I have ever been on (and I consider myself an Internet (and BBS before) veteran), and I am truely humbled....
Now, I wonder if we can beat Allenm's "Oh Bugger" thread which I think ran to 20 odd pages ;D
We'll do our best :y
No Chance! - I must remember to post up some pictures of the day on that thread ;)
Damn! I've just added to this thread ::)
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Piccies, now there's a good idea!
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(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1687.jpg)
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1686.jpg)
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1685.jpg)
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1684.jpg)
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1683.jpg)
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1688.jpg)
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Yep, I think you can safely say the headgasket is :-Xed!
To be honest those pistons don't look great either. What is going on in no.4 cylinder?
Oh, and is there a reason for leaving the plugs in? Just curious....
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Look ok to me....pretty standard state after headgasket failure (signs of rusty water etc).
So, who can see the fundamental design fault that causes it......
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Yep, I think you can safely say the headgasket is :-Xed!
To be honest those pistons don't look great either. What is going on in no.4 cylinder?
Oh, and is there a reason for leaving the plugs in? Just curious....
Bit of coolant dropped in no4 when head came off and photo tqaken...
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So, who can see the fundamental design fault that causes it......
The badge on the back? ;)
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(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1689.jpg)
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Look out...somebodies trying to nick the power steering pump!
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Wheres the pic of the old gasket....
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Too big a bore so too small a contact area around liner and head.
Designed as a 1.4
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Still at it...
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1691.jpg)
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Currently hindered by the fact they have sold me the wrong cambelt kit >:(
Also wrong gasket kit >:( >:(
Bastards >:(
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Old HG for Marks_DTM
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1693.jpg)
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/IamTheBoy/OOF/Rover%20HG/IMG_1694.jpg)
Can't really see anything wrong....
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Look ok to me....pretty standard state after headgasket failure (signs of rusty water etc).
So, who can see the fundamental design fault that causes it......
not me, not yet as i cant view these piccies at work :-/
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gasket looks good to me, but then again I don't know what to look for :-/
Looks in good condition though ....
You gunna be doing the cambelt / gasket tomorrow? I'll be around :y
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So, who can see the fundamental design fault that causes it......
Sorry TB, But I have to answer this...
it's a ROVER !!!
::)
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So, who can see the fundamental design fault that causes it......
Sorry TB, But I have to answer this...
it's a ROVER !!!
::)
:'(
But its a nice Rover... :)
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The moment of truth cometh shortly. Another 5 mins and should see if it starts....
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Yay, it runs :D
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Yay, it runs :D
Congrats! :y
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I am pleased as punch. Knackered, but delighted!
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Well Done Jamie :y
was the head warped or ok?
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Well Done Jamie :y
was the head warped or ok?
Seemed OK :y
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Thats it for the day.
I'm now laying in a nice hot bath, JamesV6CDX is on his journey home.
Mrs TheBoy happy, the heaters work in her car :-/
Jobs to do:
Going to need and oil change fairly quickly (we changed the oil, but obviously still going to be bits of water in it), and same for coolant.
Replace cambelt and tensioner (they gave me wrong kit)
Replace rocker gasket (gave me wrong one)
Replace intake to head gasket (gave me wrong one)
Replace timing cover back plate (thats our fault :-[)
Replace power steering belt (I just asked for aux belt, didn't realise 2 on this engine)
JamesV6CDX has kindly offered to assist again next week :D
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Well done guys :D
Sounds like it was a loooong day!
It also makes me glad I don't own a Rover! ;)
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It's been a cracking day..
Clear run so far..
I'm now in Gloucester and have just called into work to sort out some time off.
Next and final stop - Cardiff.
Leaving now, can't be arsed with the long way so I'm gonna go over the severn bridge..
I'll drop a post when I Get back ;D
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Very glad to hear it TB.... 1 bazillion brownie points should be deposited in James's Swiss bank account I reckon.....
which rather echoes the whole thing we talked about the other day....
I for one have just put a virtual pint " in behind the bar" for both of you..... and would be proud to convert it into real beer some day.
as it happens i was on the phone to a mate this evening... who's almost identical rover suffered a very similar fate about 2 weeks ago (unbeknownst to me at the time)
his solution, as it turns out... was to scrap it and buy a Pug instead....
his solution cost about £3K....
I reckon yours might be a more economical solution ;)
enjoy a well deserved bath and stella.
Max
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Great job, guys! :y
It's been a really good thread - indeed, possibly one of the Top 10 OOF threads. (Maybe we should run a Top 10?)
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Well done you guys :y
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Great job, guys! :y
It's been a really good thread - indeed, possibly one of the Top 10 OOF threads. (Maybe we should run a Top 10?)
I was almost tempted to delete this post.... ;)
You will give certain members ideas.... top 10 lists... :-/
;D
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I was almost tempted to delete this post.... ;)
I'm sure I could restore it from backup... ::)
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It's been a cracking day..
Clear run so far..
I'm now in Gloucester and have just called into work to sort out some time off.
Next and final stop - Cardiff.
Leaving now, can't be arsed with the long way so I'm gonna go over the severn bridge..
I'll drop a post when I Get back ;D
M5 is the long route I thought - well I went via Lydney to Chepstow from Gloucester and beat the MWay group - but then they were all slow
-
It's been a cracking day..
Clear run so far..
I'm now in Gloucester and have just called into work to sort out some time off.
Next and final stop - Cardiff.
Leaving now, can't be arsed with the long way so I'm gonna go over the severn bridge..
I'll drop a post when I Get back ;D
M5 is the long route I thought - well I went via Lydney to Chepstow from Gloucester and beat the MWay group - but then they were all slow
Sorry can't resist but at least your doing the run in an Omega James, rather than a Rover ;) ;D
-
It's been a cracking day..
Clear run so far..
I'm now in Gloucester and have just called into work to sort out some time off.
Next and final stop - Cardiff.
Leaving now, can't be arsed with the long way so I'm gonna go over the severn bridge..
I'll drop a post when I Get back ;D
M5 is the long route I thought - well I went via Lydney to Chepstow from Gloucester and beat the MWay group - but then they were all slow
Sorry can't resist but at least your doing the run in an Omega James, rather than a Rover ;) ;D
Ah, but my Rover is much quieter than JamesV6CDX's Omega :P
-
It's been a cracking day..
Clear run so far..
I'm now in Gloucester and have just called into work to sort out some time off.
Next and final stop - Cardiff.
Leaving now, can't be arsed with the long way so I'm gonna go over the severn bridge..
I'll drop a post when I Get back ;D
M5 is the long route I thought - well I went via Lydney to Chepstow from Gloucester and beat the MWay group - but then they were all slow
Sorry can't resist but at least your doing the run in an Omega James, rather than a Rover ;) ;D
Ah, but my Rover is much quieter than JamesV6CDX's Omega :P
But your supposed to start the engine........
-
It's been a cracking day..
Clear run so far..
I'm now in Gloucester and have just called into work to sort out some time off.
Next and final stop - Cardiff.
Leaving now, can't be arsed with the long way so I'm gonna go over the severn bridge..
I'll drop a post when I Get back ;D
M5 is the long route I thought - well I went via Lydney to Chepstow from Gloucester and beat the MWay group - but then they were all slow
Sorry can't resist but at least your doing the run in an Omega James, rather than a Rover ;) ;D
Ah, but my Rover is much quieter than JamesV6CDX's Omega :P
That's because I've got a hole in my exhaust the size of the grand canyon ;D
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In Summary, it was a very productive day.
Looking on the bright side, we performed a head gasket change in a day, and the car now runs with a working cooling/heating system. We also changed the water pump and thermostat just to be safe.
Depite this we did hit a few snags as TB has mentioned,
1) Wrong gasket kit was supplied. Hence, we needed to re-use a couple of gaskets short term. (Inlet manifold, rocker cover).
2) Wrong timing belt kit was supplied. Although the belt was the same, the tensioner was not, so we decided to wait and fit a whole new kit.
3) This one's my fault. Working in the dark, the light must have slipped and has melted a patch on the outer timing cover! I'm going to try and get one out of the scrappy in the next few days.
Next week TB, I'll come over and we'll get the new timing belt kit and those couple of gaskets fitted, and the job'll be a good'un.... :)
-
In Summary, it was a very productive day.
Looking on the bright side, we performed a head gasket change in a day, and the car now runs with a working cooling/heating system. We also changed the water pump and thermostat just to be safe.
Depite this we did hit a few snags as TB has mentioned,
1) Wrong gasket kit was supplied. Hence, we needed to re-use a couple of gaskets short term. (Inlet manifold, rocker cover).
2) Wrong timing belt kit was supplied. Although the belt was the same, the tensioner was not, so we decided to wait and fit a whole new kit.
3) This one's my fault. Working in the dark, the light must have slipped and has melted a patch on the outer timing cover! I'm going to try and get one out of the scrappy in the next few days.
Next week TB, I'll come over and we'll get the new timing belt kit and those couple of gaskets fitted, and the job'll be a good'un.... :)
Replacement cambelt kit on order - more expensive though :( - should be here by Tues. The belts are different as well by 2 teeth.
They are going to try to sort something out with the rocker and inlet gaskets as well.
-
So Jamie, any future projects wil be rover based ? :-/
You may find theres one or two lying about ebay with HGF ;)
-
So Jamie, any future projects wil be rover based ? :-/
You may find theres one or two lying about ebay with HGF ;)
Unlikely.
This was Mrs TheBoys car, we've had from new, has been fairly trouble free, and she likes it (as do I). Hence worth repairing.
I keep toying with getting a little 25 or 45 diesel for daily use to work to keep fuel bills down. Tyey are nice and cheap now, and fairly good performance and mpg for a diesel at that sort of money...
-
After a short spin today, the coolant turned quite dark...
Presumably, this is just the crap that is left in it when HG went?
I have dropped the coolant out again, and refilled again with Vx's finest.
Still seeing droplets of oil in header tank, presumably again residue from the original failure?
-
After a short spin today, the coolant turned quite dark...
Presumably, this is just the crap that is left in it when HG went?
I have dropped the coolant out again, and refilled again with Vx's finest.
Still seeing droplets of oil in header tank, presumably again residue from the original failure?
This is all totally normal after a HGF...
Just do regular coolant/oil changes for a bit, it could take ages and ages to be squeaky clean again...
-
One odd thing, its defo missing under load when not warmed up.
Not sure if this is the air intake leak, or perhaps duff coil pack/HT lead?
-
A slight amount of air leaking in would cause it to idle high, but wouldn't think it would cause it to misfire only when cold. I'd put money on that dodgey coil pack
-
A slight amount of air leaking in would cause it to idle high, but wouldn't think it would cause it to misfire only when cold. I'd put money on that dodgey coil pack
My thoughts as well.
After doing a bit of research on why K series HG fail, the misfire/power lack she had and the HG failure may be 2 different issues, with one causing the other...
-
A slight amount of air leaking in would cause it to idle high, but wouldn't think it would cause it to misfire only when cold. I'd put money on that dodgey coil pack
My thoughts as well.
After doing a bit of research on why K series HG fail, the misfire/power lack she had and the HG failure may be 2 different issues, with one causing the other...
I thought from the beginning it was just two seperate issues, but I never thought one would be the cause of the other. What's the logic behind that?
-
It turns out I have a K series expert (from design point of view) in the family...
Would the misfire cause the temp to increase slightly?
-
I really can't answer that, but I wouldn't have thought so, I would have thought the temp problems were caused by the shagged HG, which is now changed?
-
Thats a bit scary, a duff plug/lead can cause a head gasket fail? Makes me glad I didn't buy a rover.
-
Thats a bit scary, a duff plug/lead can cause a head gasket fail? Makes me glad I didn't buy a rover.
Apparently a problem with many all alloy engines, esp earlier ones - the HG will fail if temp fluctuates slightly higher than normal...
-
Thats a bit scary, a duff plug/lead can cause a head gasket fail? Makes me glad I didn't buy a rover.
Apparently a problem with many all alloy engines, esp earlier ones - the HG will fail if temp fluctuates slightly higher than normal...
That is pretty worrying.... it should have at least some tolerance, to get a bit warm and be OK before failing..
-
Thats a bit scary, a duff plug/lead can cause a head gasket fail? Makes me glad I didn't buy a rover.
Apparently a problem with many all alloy engines, esp earlier ones - the HG will fail if temp fluctuates slightly higher than normal...
That is pretty worrying.... it should have at least some tolerance, to get a bit warm and be OK before failing..
Gotta own up and not fully understand it all, esp when he started going on about LM10 and LM15 type metals, but the gist is there is so very little tolerance in the system (due to insufficient cooling capacity as buyers want instant warm up). Something happens at a few hundred degrees where this alloys meet (block to head), and as the combustion may be in the 1000s degrees, it is reliant on the cooling capacity. So any cooling glitch, be it stat, poor coolant, fans etc etc can cause the issue...
-
And K series is particularly bad as when it was designed, it was leading edge - one of the first of the modern all alloy engines, lean running for economy (hence hotter), low coolant capacity....
-
Thats a bit scary, a duff plug/lead can cause a head gasket fail? Makes me glad I didn't buy a rover.
Apparently a problem with many all alloy engines, esp earlier ones - the HG will fail if temp fluctuates slightly higher than normal...
Correct!! :y The alu heads warp at the sign of sunshine.
So yes duff lead can cause it. Normally though, and i know this doesnt apply to you Jamie, its poor servicing or lack of regular coolant changes that cause it ( less effective coolant, slightly higher temp BLAM)
Bad original gasket design also to blame.
Reckon your lead or just the bad desgned gasket is your cause Jamie.
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Thats a bit scary, a duff plug/lead can cause a head gasket fail? Makes me glad I didn't buy a rover.
Apparently a problem with many all alloy engines, esp earlier ones - the HG will fail if temp fluctuates slightly higher than normal...
Correct!! :y The alu heads warp at the sign of sunshine.
So yes duff lead can cause it. Normally though, and i know this doesnt apply to you Jamie, its poor servicing or lack of regular coolant changes that cause it ( less effective coolant, slightly higher temp BLAM)
Bad original gasket design also to blame.
Reckon your lead or just the bad desgned gasket is your cause Jamie.
My original gasket (as seen in the pics in this thread) looks the same as the replacement - a metal gasket with red silicone seals...
The coolant in that car got changed annually once I stopped dealer servicing on it (came with 3 or 4 yrs free servicing), having read somewhere that poor coolant can cause it. Last summer was first time I used Vx Red though (it had always had blue in before).
Though I guess 70k on original gasket was not bad, and if this one lasts 70k I will be very, very happy...
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Its not bad :y
I had one go on 2000miles !
I had one go on 44k
And i had one that was fine on 70k untill barsteward stole it.
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OK, just as an update, done a few coolant changes and an oil change now. Seems to be going well. Coolant is now draining pretty clear, just the odd droplet of oil in there...
Oil seems to be going dark quite quickly though still, so I guess it needs a bit more oil changing....
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Sounds like we cracked it :y
I'm probably going to the scrappy this morning looking for Omega bits, I'll see if I can get that outer timing cover I burned with the lead-lamp :-[
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Sounds like we cracked it :y
I'm probably going to the scrappy this morning looking for Omega bits, I'll see if I can get that outer timing cover I burned with the lead-lamp :-[
If you can, that would be really appreciated. And if a dipstick tube bolt falls in your pocket, that will be one less rattle from the car.....