Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Turk on 19 June 2009, 20:10:50
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What's the general opinion on this ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Sealey-GA45-Magnetic-Camber-Castor-Gauge-6-to-6_W0QQitemZ370172192991QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Measuring_Tools_Levels?hash=item562ffb68df&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1689%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
Obviously not a patch on a full Geo at WIM etc, but as a reasonably accurate re-set tool when replacing front struts, it should be ok :-/
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Hmmmm, think you would have to ensure the front of the car was perfectly level for this to work.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
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For an accurate set-up from scratch the full weight of the car has to be on the wheels, but seeing as this guage can be Zero'd, I was thinking it would be fine for taking a measurment, Zero it, remove the suspension leg to change it or the springs and then re-fit and adjust camber to the Zero setting. Should be reasonably accurate until a proper full geometric set-up can be done.
Obviously if there is a camber issue to start with then it's not much use unless the guage can be attached to the disc with the full weight of the car on the wheels and even then it's not going to be as accurate as a proper Geo.
Just thought it looked pretty good as a temporary re-setting tool.
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The link doesn't work for me! :'(
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The link doesn't work for me! :'(
Hmm...nor me now !!! :-?
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Right, try the link now. I've replaced it with another.
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Sealey camber gauge (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Sealey-GA45-Magnetic-Camber-Castor-Gauge-6-to-6_W0QQitemZ370172192991QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Measuring_Tools_Levels?hash=item562ffb68df&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1683%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50)
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[size=14]SNAP![/size] ;D ;D ;D
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Best camber gauge:
http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/
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used an 11 mill socket as a feeler gauge between rim and shock when i changed my struts. subsequent set up was bog on....
obviuosly you need to find something that measures YOUR wheel strut gap set up before you start with this method, or however you do it. And also assumes your set up is correct before you start, which mine was...
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used an 11 mill socket as a feeler gauge ...
1/4" 3/8" or 1/2" ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D :y :y :y
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You can measure camber just as accurately with a spirit level IMHO and yes, you need to do it on a level floor or zero the gauge against the surface you are on.
Cheap spirit level with a couple of holes tapped into it and 2 bolts does the job just as well.
Kevin
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used an 11 mill socket as a feeler gauge ...
1/4" 3/8" or 1/2" ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D :y :y :y
any of those for vx spec. ;D ;D :y
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used an 11 mill socket as a feeler gauge ...
1/4" 3/8" or 1/2" ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D :y :y :y
any of those for vx spec. ;D ;D :y
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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You can measure camber just as accurately with a spirit level IMHO and yes, you need to do it on a level floor or zero the gauge against the surface you are on.
Cheap spirit level with a couple of holes tapped into it and 2 bolts does the job just as well.
Kevin
This guage is calibrated in one degree increment and decrement.
How do you accurately calibrate with a bubble between two lines and no calibration markings ?
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How about a protractor and spirit marker?
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You can measure camber just as accurately with a spirit level IMHO and yes, you need to do it on a level floor or zero the gauge against the surface you are on.
Cheap spirit level with a couple of holes tapped into it and 2 bolts does the job just as well.
Kevin
This guage is calibrated in one degree increment and decrement.
How do you accurately calibrate with a bubble between two lines and no calibration markings ?
With about the same accuracy, as I said...
Just because it will display to n decimal places it doesn't mean that's the accuracy you are achieving, especially when considering the effects of not having dead level ground, which you can do nothing about with either solution. 1 degree shifts the bubble in a spirit level quite a way too.
If you need to get it spot on, you need to go to a decent depot. Something that you can adjust on a DIY basis will reduce the amount of tread you use getting there after a wishbone change, or allow you to experiment with the settings once you have a feel for how your garage floor affects the readings.
Kevin
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Oh definately. For a proper job it has to be a full geo. This would be used for when I change the springs for the up-graded std ride height jobbies I'm gonna have made at Faulkner's http://www.dfaulknersprings.co.uk/
There's a trip to WIM after, but that's around 200 miles from me, so I'll need to get things reasonably accurate.
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In that case, I'd try the spirit level method. Wind a couple of screws into the spirit level at the correct spacing so that they sit on the wheel rims. Set them to read level on a level surface and then screw the top screw out to give you the desired camber.
Amount to screw out = distance between screws * Tan (camber angle).
.02 gives you about 1.15 degrees, which is about where you need to aim for.
So, if your 2 screws end up 40cm apart you need to turn the top screw out by about400 x .02 = 8.5mm then adjust for a level indication when offered up to the wheel.
Toe is the setting that's a pain to get right.
Kevin