Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Jim Bob2 on 04 March 2007, 11:53:53
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Has anybody proved this product to be beneficial either engine or gearbox. Any noticable improvements in smoothness? Any evidence of reduced wear?
They promise alot on the packaging.
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I used it in my Astra. It is hard if not impossible to tell if it made a difference. To be honest, I think that the best protection you can give the engine is regular oil / filter changes say every 3000 miles.
On balance, not worth it in my opinion.
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I'd say it's snake oil. If there are magic ingredients to reduce friction and wear a good quality oil already has them in.
Kevin
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I used to use Molyslip in all our engines... having first used it on a Rally event... in an RS2000 Mk1 and had it prove it's worth... we cracked the sump (smashed the sumpguard to bits on a rock) , lost nearly all the oil in a mile or so and still had some 15 miles of special stage to go....
got to the end of stage, Service crew replaced Sump , Sump-guard and oil, and a new tin of molyslip/.
Zero observable damage to engine, Finished the Event (4 more stages) and the next 2 events before scheduled rebuild.... rebuild showed no more obvious wear in bearings and the like than was normal for the engine...
Molyslip proved it's worth......
I've been using slick 50 in the Meega, actually because it came as part of a package deal with some injector cleaner... which i use.
some say mine is one of the nicest/smoothest sounding V6 meegas they've worked on recently .
whether that's got ANYTHING to do with Slick50, I have no idea...
max
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Thats interesting. I heard another story of an engine treated with slick 50 running dry of oil and sufffering no harm before. I think a newish well run in engine would benefit the most. Putting it in an already knackered engine is probably a waste of money.
Thanks for the feedback.
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I use active8 additive in my motorbikes and quality oil in my car and change the oil every six months
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Thats interesting. I heard another story of an engine treated with slick 50 running dry of oil and sufffering no harm before. I think a newish well run in engine would benefit the most. Putting it in an already knackered engine is probably a waste of money.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think they used to do it one the advert. Put slick 50 in the oil the drain it the drive the car :o
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Thats interesting. I heard another story of an engine treated with slick 50 running dry of oil and sufffering no harm before. I think a newish well run in engine would benefit the most. Putting it in an already knackered engine is probably a waste of money.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think they used to do it one the advert. Put slick 50 in the oil the drain it the drive the car :o
.......for about 20yds after the camera stopped ;D
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I certainly wouldn't recommend anyone seriously rely on it..... and it IS kind of expensive, as you have to replace it every at every oil change, 3-6000 miles or so... hell it's nearly as much as another load of Vx semi-synth oil for an extra change... indeed it might be more if you have TC.
Note my 'proof of worth" tale was concerning our use of Molyslip (molybdenum sulphide? ) NOT Slick 50 , which i think i recall is an activated form of PTFE.
What's more my Bro has corrected me.... On the RS2K Pinto lump, there was more wear at the next rebuild, some increased evidence of heat in a blue tingeing of the main bearing shells, but as they were being replaced, and the crank was unaffected, it was effectively nil. basically the end result was that it saved the engine .
I can only say that my Meega has had Slick50 consistently, in every oil change and seems very smooth ....
I have not had a major oil loss to test the theory of it's protective powers, nor do i PLAN on doing so ;)
Thinking back to the advert that prompted us to use Molyslip in the first place.... I THINK, that was the one where they filled a car with oil and the product, ran it for 50 laps , then drained it, then ran it for another 50 laps..... and then re-filled it , and there was no apparent damage... the car then went on to run for 24 hours as an endurance test just fine....
or something like that.....
Max
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IMO, never, ever, ever ever use any oil additives....
Just a personal opinion.. a well looked after engine wouldn't benefit from it... and for a not so well looked after engine.. recommend severl oil changes close together to flush/clean it.. NOT a flushing agent...
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The whole idea behind the TEFLON additive is that it would bond with the metals of the engine and reduce friction. Unfortunately due to the very high temperatures required for this phenomenon to happen most of the teflon just accumulates in oil galleries reducing their ID and restricting oil flow.
Bad idea in my opinion, i would experiment only with an engine that is on its last legs. But i have used MOTORKOTE which works on a different principle and i have found it to make wanders. Very expensive though about 30£ per 200ml but they say that it lasts for 80K km.
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Dam awful stuff.....and once its in, you never fully get it out......and stripping heads down that have had the stuff round them is bloody awful...
MaxV6's engine sounds smooth because the aux componenst dont have any noisey bearings......and the passenger side gets a regular steam clean ;).....which reminds me, did the leak get fixed.........
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it would seem so Mark.... James replaced the stat and stat housing.... and fitted new o rings on the transfer pipe, and it now seems to be behaving.... I just got back from sitting in rush hour traffic on the school rune ... 45 minutes of stop start,1 minute of 70MPH on the flat , 3 minutes of uphill 30mph, not one wisp of steam...
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Glad you got that sorted, Max. :)
Regarding additives, being able to run on no oil isn't much of a selling point for me because it isn't a likely scenario for my car. Surely adding particles to the oil can only increase wear during normal circumstances?
The only reason I can imagine why someone doesn't sell oil incorporating these substances ready-mixed is that the oil wouldn't meet the API and ACEA specifications.
Anyway, in my experience, unless you're really unlucky modern cars rot away before the engine gives up. I've stripped a few modern engines with 6 figure mileages and can't remember one where the honing marks weren't still visible on pretty much the whole surface of the bore.
Now, give me an additive that you could just pour in somewhere to stop tin worm and I would be interested ;)
Kevin
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it would seem so Mark.... James replaced the stat and stat housing.... and fitted new o rings on the transfer pipe, and it now seems to be behaving.... I just got back from sitting in rush hour traffic on the school rune ... 45 minutes of stop start,1 minute of 70MPH on the flat , 3 minutes of uphill 30mph, not one wisp of steam...
So no more Pug trips :y
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I used to use Molyslip in all our engines... having first used it on a Rally event... in an RS2000 Mk1 and had it prove it's worth... we cracked the sump (smashed the sumpguard to bits on a rock) , lost nearly all the oil in a mile or so and still had some 15 miles of special stage to go....
got to the end of stage, Service crew replaced Sump , Sump-guard and oil, and a new tin of molyslip/.
Zero observable damage to engine, Finished the Event (4 more stages) and the next 2 events before scheduled rebuild.... rebuild showed no more obvious wear in bearings and the like than was normal for the engine...
Molyslip proved it's worth......
I've been using slick 50 in the Meega, actually because it came as part of a package deal with some injector cleaner... which i use.
some say mine is one of the nicest/smoothest sounding V6 meegas they've worked on recently .
whether that's got ANYTHING to do with Slick50, I have no idea...
max
I used to use Molycote many years ago, though I don’t do it any more (who wants BLACK oil from day one? ;D)
I think Molycote is a great product and certainly does what it says on the box i.e. reduces friction and cling to the metal bits etc. The point about Slik50 and similar PTFE-based products is that they claim to better Molycote, but the worry was that (a) the PTFE products in an engine environment do not actually contribute to friction reduction, and (b) that PTFE bits floating in the oil can be damaging by clogging filters etc.
The issue is still controversial, and DuPont (who invented Teflon, the commercial name for PTFE) initially refused to sell Teflon to automotive additive manufacturers, but was taken to court and forced to supply the product, so they issued a statement saying that ‘there is no proof that using Teflon in an engine has any advantages’. To be honest their reasons for not wanting to supply Teflon were probably more to do with commercial reasons than them worrying about the well-being of you engine, but the fact still remains that the use of Teflon in engines was and still is disowned by DuPont.
I don’t think the product is needed in modern engines that can rack-up six figures mileage easily without it. In fact, if you follow this website you will see that it is almost unheard off for cars to have internal engine wear damage – cars either get scrapped with good engines because of other faults, or they suffer from internal engine damage due to tensioner failure. But worn engines, excessive oil consumption, etc – very very rare.
As for driving without oil, as soon as the oil drops both your oil pressure light and the low oil level warning on the MID will come up – unless you are in a Rally or race the thing to do is switch off the engine asap. I don’t think I would want to continue driving without oil even if I did have some additive in the engin. In my opinion anyone continuing to drive on the road without oil thinking ‘I have Molycote’ or ‘I have Slik50’ should have his head examined…
As for running an engine without oil, surprisingly it does not suffer an immediate damage… I once serviced a 1.8 Astra and after draining the oil I started the car, forgetting that it has no oil… when I saw the oil pressure light I realised what I have done and switched the engine off – it probably ran for a minute or so without oil. I had the car for several years after that with no problem. Obviously running engines without oil is not recommended, but the point is that if you loose all your oil and switch the engine off as soon as the oil pressure light comes up, you will probably still be OK and not cause any long term damage.
So in short I don’t see the point anyway, and the fact that the product is controversial is even more of a reason not to use it.