Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: tunnie on 02 March 2010, 22:10:05
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Only just realised the beemer has linked brakes :-[
I have been riding how i was taught, so approaching junctions at say 70, i click down through the gears, using engine braking (which the boxer engine gives lots of)
I brake with rear brake first, slowly increasing pressure to back brake, then last, pull on the front, lightly at first, then more firm, depending on speed. (sometimes i hardly touch it)
According to manual, when you pull the front brake, both are applied. The ABS system works out how much to send to front rear, with normal conditions giving most to the rear (as i under stand it)
Should i switch styles? Only use front brake? :-/
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brake normally. You may be on a proper bike one day ;)
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brake normally. You may be on a proper bike one day ;)
PMSL, how did I know something that that would get said when I read the start of the thread.
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brake normally. You may be on a proper bike one day ;)
As in rear first then front? Keep on using the rear brake for normal riding?
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being 6ft4/5 the GS is a proper bike, everything else feels like a monkey bike
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Both brakes ;)
Rear only purely for slow speed stability. And showboating ::)
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Both brakes ;)
Rear only purely for slow speed stability. And showboating ::)
ABS system won't let me do burn outs, unless i turn it off ::)
Always have been using both, rear first, then front.
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Use the brakes.
Pads are cheaper than gearboxes and designed with the primary (and possibly sole) purpose to slow you down, unlike gearboxes. Brake off excess speed, select required gear through block changing then ride on.
Beemer got a gear indicator?
Most usefull and safe braking effect done by front, rear used mainly to drag for low speed manouevering.
:y
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Both brakes ;)
Rear only purely for slow speed stability. And showboating ::)
ABS system won't let me do burn outs, unless i turn it off ::)
Always have been using both, rear first, then front.
Front first, I've been taught, to load the suspension, then the rear. If rear then front then likely to go the shape of the pear....
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Use the brakes.
Pads are cheaper than gearboxes and designed with the primary (and possibly sole) purpose to slow you down, unlike gearboxes. Brake off excess speed, select required gear through block changing then ride on.
Beemer got a gear indicator?
Most usefull and safe braking effect done by front, rear used mainly to drag for low speed manouevering.
:y
Yeah got a gear indicator, i try not to look at it, but got quite reliant on it :-[
Had an off in my early days when i snached the front, with too much lock on, so been a bit hesitant ever since with the front :(
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Both brakes ;)
Rear only purely for slow speed stability. And showboating ::)
ABS system won't let me do burn outs, unless i turn it off ::)
Always have been using both, rear first, then front.
Front first, I've been taught, to load the suspension, then the rear. If rear then front then likely to go the shape of the pear....
I was told rear first :( :-/
I use the rear on roundabouts / T-junctions, to stablise the bike a bit, slip the clutch if its a small roundabout, bigger ones i do just on the throttle alone
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Use of brakes also informs other road users of what you are doing by means of the brake light ... whereas pure engine braking does not....... :)
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Use of brakes also informs other road users of what you are doing by means of the brake light ... whereas pure engine braking does not....... :)
I always use the rear brake, so that puts the light on :y
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Same as a car Tunnie, Learn to pass the test, then learn to drive properly and from the sounds of it a lot more safely, even as a non biker I would have started to use the front brake 1st, it makes more sence. I would image a lot of riders having the new freedom of passing a test and getting a bigger more powerfull kike, there may have been a tendancy to gear down and brake from excessivee speed and therefore giving chance to lock the back wheel.
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Use of brakes also informs other road users of what you are doing by means of the brake light ... whereas pure engine braking does not....... :)
I always use the rear brake, so that puts the light on :y
So should the front these days..... :y
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Sounds like its time for you to move on, learning wise.... ;)
Check if your local force has something similar....
http://www.fife.police.uk/Default.aspx?page=2834
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Sounds like its time for you to move on, learning wise.... ;)
Check if your local force has something similar....
http://www.fife.police.uk/Default.aspx?page=2834
But they might stop advise him to stop riding at *00 mph+ and doing Donuts. ::) ;D ;D
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But as its linked, when i pull on the front, it brakes the rear too, so i don't know if me using the rear brake as well makes things worse :-/
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Sounds like its time for you to move on, learning wise.... ;)
Check if your local force has something similar....
http://www.fife.police.uk/Default.aspx?page=2834
But they might stop advise him to stop riding at *00 mph+ and doing Donuts. ::) ;D ;D
Warickshire do one, at a bargain of £30, must book one :y
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But as its linked, when i pull on the front, it brakes the rear too, so i don't know if me using the rear brake as well makes things worse :-/
How can it be worse, yank the brakes on , you have ABS dont you.
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But as its linked, when i pull on the front, it brakes the rear too, so i don't know if me using the rear brake as well makes things worse :-/
How can it be worse, yank the brakes on , you have ABS dont you.
ABS System is 'supposed' to work out how much to apply to the rear (oooo errr ;D)
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But as its linked, when i pull on the front, it brakes the rear too, so i don't know if me using the rear brake as well makes things worse :-/
The Pans I rode also had linked brakes.
I still used the front first/most (why did Honda put two mahoosive discs there and not a giant one at the back?) and used the rear as well. If you use too much rear, it will lock/ABS but, if you already have a large handfull of front, it will make no appreciable difference.
As said, time for a move from learner lessons to advanced lessons. Its not just braking but road positioning, anticipation, cornering techniques and reading the road amongst others.
Done the bikesafe thing for quite a few years and its amazing how many mental light switches get switched on in riders eyes, just by a (free to them) Saturday or Sunday powerpoint and ride out with the Polis... ;)
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But as its linked, when i pull on the front, it brakes the rear too, so i don't know if me using the rear brake as well makes things worse :-/
How can it be worse, yank the brakes on , you have ABS dont you.
ABS System is 'supposed' to work out how much to apply to the rear (oooo errr ;D)
As H21 says, why do bikes have 2 massives disks upfront and a smaller rear disk, think they must all have an idea of what they are building after all these years.
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But as its linked, when i pull on the front, it brakes the rear too, so i don't know if me using the rear brake as well makes things worse :-/
The Pans I rode also had linked brakes.
I still used the front first/most (why did Honda put two mahoosive discs there and not a giant one at the back?) and used the rear as well. If you use too much rear, it will lock/ABS but, if you already have a large handfull of front, it will make no appreciable difference.
As said, time for a move from learner lessons to advanced lessons. Its not just braking but road positioning, anticipation, cornering techniques and reading the road amongst others.
Done the bikesafe thing for quite a few years and its amazing how many mental light switches get switched on in riders eyes, just by a (free to them) Saturday or Sunday powerpoint and ride out with the Polis... ;)
Should be compulsory. 12 months after passing test and before moving to a bike of greater than a specified power/weight ratio. CC means nothing these days.
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splash the cash, and learn lots....... Motorcycle Roadcraft.
Boring tosh to some, saving limbs and lives to others. :y
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=motorcycle+roadcraft&tag=googhydr-21&index=stripbooks&hvadid=4129780063&ref=pd_sl_8a98ctxdts_b
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But as its linked, when i pull on the front, it brakes the rear too, so i don't know if me using the rear brake as well makes things worse :-/
The Pans I rode also had linked brakes.
I still used the front first/most (why did Honda put two mahoosive discs there and not a giant one at the back?) and used the rear as well. If you use too much rear, it will lock/ABS but, if you already have a large handfull of front, it will make no appreciable difference.
As said, time for a move from learner lessons to advanced lessons. Its not just braking but road positioning, anticipation, cornering techniques and reading the road amongst others.
Done the bikesafe thing for quite a few years and its amazing how many mental light switches get switched on in riders eyes, just by a (free to them) Saturday or Sunday powerpoint and ride out with the Polis... ;)
Thanks, must get one of those courses booked up :y
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Only just realised the beemer has linked brakes :-[
I have been riding how i was taught, so approaching junctions at say 70, i click down through the gears, using engine braking (which the boxer engine gives lots of)
I brake with rear brake first, slowly increasing pressure to back brake, then last, pull on the front, lightly at first, then more firm, depending on speed. (sometimes i hardly touch it)
According to manual, when you pull the front brake, both are applied. The ABS system works out how much to send to front rear, with normal conditions giving most to the rear (as i under stand it)
Should i switch styles? Only use front brake? :-/
:o Who on earth told you to do that ?
Front first :y
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splash the cash, and learn lots....... Motorcycle Roadcraft.
Boring tosh to some, saving limbs and lives to others. :y
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=motorcycle+roadcraft&tag=googhydr-21&index=stripbooks&hvadid=4129780063&ref=pd_sl_8a98ctxdts_b
Thank you for your order.
We will send you an e-mail confirmation shortly.
:)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorcycle-Roadcraft-Police-Handbook-Motorcycling/dp/011341143X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1267570186&sr=1-1
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Had linked brakes on a Guzzi T3 and they were brilliant, the foot brake worked the rear disk and one front disk, the handlebar lever worked the other front disk. The linked system is very stable and used for moderate speed reduction, adding in more front brake when a hard stop is needed.
On the Matchless at normal road speeds and approaching a roundabout I sit up as tall as possible into the air flow and haul the front brake lever right back to the handle bar. All body weight is transferred to the rear brake lever whilst the right foot is down shifting as fast as possible. Eyes and brain are working at max speed to plot an escape route and selecting the softest looking kerb/crash barrier/lorry in case some muppet pulls into my 200yd stopping distance.
Why would you want abs? it takes all the fun out of riding a real bike.
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Good man.... ;)
ps - Warwickshire are robbin bandits. Us Jocks do the course for free. And we supply the coffee and biccies! ;D
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£30 is half price, its usually £60! >:(
Got my new popup camping tent, maybe a bike trip up to haggis land in needed 8-) ;D
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I tend to think of the rear brake on a bike almost like the handbrake on a car, as in I rarely use it. The only time I use it on a dry road is to tighten my line a bit in a corner if it feels like it might run a bit wide. Having said that I might be doing it all wrong, but it seems to work for me. :-/
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When Tunnie was having his lessons there seemed to be another rather worrying thing he was taught... hold his clutch in if I remember correctly around corner or roundabouts.......
Tunnie it is the same as when you learnt how to drive a car, you learn when you have passed... hope that makes sense :y
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When Tunnie was having his lessons there seemed to be another rather worrying thing he was taught... hold his clutch in if I remember correctly around corner or roundabouts.......
Tunnie it is the same as when you learnt how to drive a car, you learn when you have passed... hope that makes sense :y
Don't hold cluch in, was taught to slip the clutch, keeping the engine busy, and applying rear brake.
I only tend to slip the clutch on mini-roundabouts now, as my throttle sensitivity is much better than it was
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Cant imagine how holding the clutch in on corners or roundabouts would be a good thing :o :-/
Dont like the sound of linked brkes either tbh, if you want all that palava just drive a car imo.
A bike should be about the rider using the controls to get the best out of the machine, not the machine and itselectronics deciding whats safe. call me old fashioned............. :D ;D
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Cant imagine how holding the clutch in on corners or roundabouts would be a good thing :o :-/
Dont like the sound of linked brkes either tbh, if you want all that palava just drive a car imo.
A bike should be about the rider using the controls to get the best out of the machine, not the machine and itselectronics deciding whats safe. call me old fashioned............. :D ;D
Yeap your Old Fashioned, I have seen your Bellbottoms ;D ;D ;D
The only time I use the back break if I need to get rid of a little speed in a corner and to stop the tinker from flipping ;D
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Front brake first and foremost.
That is why most large modern bikes have two large discs on the front and just the one smaller single disc at the rear.
Also, regarding pads, you can fit sintered pads all round (as with a linked system) or just on the front with kevlar on the rear, but never fit sintered pads to the rear only as this could cause brake imbalance.
I really hope whoever told you to apply the rear first is not an instructor.
Ask a motorcycle racer what % of front to rear braking they use and they'll probably ask "What rear brake ?" ;D
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I tend to think of the rear brake on a bike almost like the handbrake on a car, as in I rarely use it. The only time I use it on a dry road is to tighten my line a bit in a corner if it feels like it might run a bit wide.
Hear Hear :y
Ride a decent 2 stroke for a bit Tunnie and you will realise why you use the front brake ;)
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I tend to think of the rear brake on a bike almost like the handbrake on a car, as in I rarely use it. The only time I use it on a dry road is to tighten my line a bit in a corner if it feels like it might run a bit wide.
Hear Hear :y
Ride a decent 2 stroke for a bit Tunnie and you will realise why you use the front brake ;)
When I got off 2 strokes for a 4's I thought the bloody brakes were binding ;D
Liked the KR1's and RGV's a little to light for me... don't think they had the same Flair as the "Elsies" though :)
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When I got off 2 strokes for a 4's I thought the bloody brakes were binding ;D
It is surprising how much braking the engine can provide on a 4 stroke and how little it is on a 2 stroke :o
Liked the KR1's and RGV's a little to light for me... don't think they had the same Flair as the "Elsies" though :)
But at least they can handle a corner :D
I'd love a 350cc LC just for the acceleration :o
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The reason for the big disks on the front is that they can lift the back wheel off the ground - not much point in having back brakes then!!!
I only use the rear brake in the wet to keep the back behind the front and for hill starts.
I happen to disagree with "the system" when it says to brake and block change later instead of dropping down through the gears. Reason: you are presuming that no "event" occurs during your speed adjustment phase that might require an unforeseen change of plan! Or put differently; you are not "always in the right gear at the right time" which was an old maxim.
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alot of opinions and differant ways to skin the same cat, too right as well, no 2 people operate a single piece of machinary in the same way, be it cars, bikes, lathes drills...tractors, whatever. All an individual can do is use his common sense and experience.
Training is always a good idea, allowing others experience to advance yours. But at the end of it only you can ride it and take resposibility.
Personaly, i think the bike you have is a wiser buy than you/we realised . Probably the single most dangerous and common problem with bike riding technique is lack of rider confidence entering a corner, selecting turn in speed, selecting corner speed, and the easiest, exit speed. The main issue being trail braking into a corner, usually on the front brake, then, a little unsure how far the bike will lean over with the grip available, and usually in conjunction something unexpected like the corner tightening further, trail brake even more, then feel totally convinced the bike will not turn any tighter, run wide and into the weeds or worse...Or with BMW's thinking, brake too hard in similar situations and loose front grip altogether, all BMW's braking systems are designed to help the rider stay on, keep controle and prevent ham fisted and catastrofic loss of grip. BMW know thier customerd well it seems.
Problem is, it seems to me at least, non of these systems help improve rider confidence in a trail braking wide situation, and from previous posts i know its an issue for you, as it is for the vast majority early on.
As h21 says, training is very worth while, but there's more than one way to train, road craft is vital on the road obviously, but nothing in the world can give a rider more confidence than knowing exactly what his machine is capable of, he can then know what situations he can or cant get into.
Entry speed can be quite breath taking on a bike and there are several drills that can help achieve it, you wont find these in a road training progamme though, not a hope.
Make of it what you wish, examine your riding honestly, be critical, and work on week areas, we all have them. Then you start to realise, you dont need linked brakes and ABS.
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Cheers all :y
Very tempted to take h21 up on his offer of having some pointers from ex-police rider. After i passed my car test, i went in for the car craft style thing, and i was actually appalled by style of driving, doing over takes in situations which were completely unsuitable in my opinion.
I do like the bike i have, it might not have the best image in eyes of other bikers, but i like it and thats what matters. Heck, i drive an Omega which does not exactly have a great image ;D
I find the GS suits my height, tried other bikes, liked the look of Yam FJR on the road, but actually on it? Didn't like it, even on its centre stand it felt way too small, and i felt i was just sat on top of it, rather than 'on' the bike if that makes sense.
I am always are speed in corners in dangerous, i have over-cooked a couple of them, and its made me wary, which is good thing i think.
Been trying to be smoother in everything i do into the bike, slow smoothly before the corner, swing in a single movement, not have to make corrections in the turn, then power on in a smooth way out again. Also trying to really lean into the corners.
Sounds like quite a few of us have bikes, when weather improves have to see if we can get an OOF biker meet going :y
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Cheers all :y
Very tempted to take h21 up on his offer of having some pointers from ex-police rider. After i passed my car test, i went in for the car craft style thing, and i was actually appalled by style of driving, doing over takes in situations which were completely unsuitable in my opinion.
I do like the bike i have, it might not have the best image in eyes of other bikers, but i like it and thats what matters. Heck, i drive an Omega which does not exactly have a great image ;D
I find the GS suits my height, tried other bikes, liked the look of Yam FJR on the road, but actually on it? Didn't like it, even on its centre stand it felt way too small, and i felt i was just sat on top of it, rather than 'on' the bike if that makes sense.
I am always are speed in corners in dangerous, i have over-cooked a couple of them, and its made me wary, which is good thing i think.
Been trying to be smoother in everything i do into the bike, slow smoothly before the corner, swing in a single movement, not have to make corrections in the turn, then power on in a smooth way out again. Also trying to really lean into the corners.
Sounds like quite a few of us have bikes, when weather improves have to see if we can get an OOF biker meet going :y
I would recommend Bikesafe if you haven't done much post test training. It is all police riders AFAIK and is a good day out at low cost. Ratios of 1:1 or 2:1 on rideouts are not uncommon.
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Cant imagine how holding the clutch in on corners or roundabouts would be a good thing :o :-/
Dont like the sound of linked brkes either tbh, if you want all that palava just drive a car imo.
A bike should be about the rider using the controls to get the best out of the machine, not the machine and itselectronics deciding whats safe. call me old fashioned............. :D ;D
Yeap your Old Fashioned, I have seen your Bellbottoms ;D ;D ;D
The only time I use the back break if I need to get rid of a little speed in a corner and to stop the tinker from flipping ;D
The first person in history who has needed to get rid of speed on a Fizzy. ::) :o :D ;D ;D
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Considering where you live Tunnie, if I were you I would go and do a track day or two at Silverstone. You can use their bikes, not your sort of bike I know but thats besides the point.
You would imo build more confidence in one day there than a year riding on the road. You would learn so much about what level of grip you have available for cornering on a bike and how late and hard you can brake if you have to which can all be very useful on the roads if you get yourself into a sticky situation.
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thats not a bad idea that, just taken a quick look:
All riders must provide their own helmet, boots, gloves and motorcycle leathers (a minimum of 2-piece zip-together where the zip is 360 degrees around the waist). Helmets can usually be hired on the day but are subject to availability. All clothing must be free from holes, splits or other apparent damage.
I have gortex gear, only my gloves are leather, so would need to invest in some leathers i think before i would do a course :-/
Also trousers seen better days, they got some rips in from my DAS course. :(
Think best option is some tutoring by h21 :)
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Im surprised they dont hire out leathers tbh. :-/.......might be worth getting some secondhand from fleabay just so you can dip your toe in the (trackday) water. ;)
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Im surprised they dont hire out leathers tbh. :-/.......might be worth getting some secondhand from fleabay just so you can dip your toe in the (trackday) water. ;)
Doubt they hire them out, just imagine the dry-cleaning bill ;D
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which ever you feel happiest imo Tunnie, its confidence and experience you need.
But i'll bet you a fair bit of money, those corners where you "over cooked it" ...? you didnt over cook the corner, you just think you did. Let the brakes off and turn the bike, lean it over. Easy to say i know, but thats exactly the confidence you need.
Ime i rider can spend years on the road, trained or otherwise, and not get it. But put them on a track or air field or any bit of open space and with a bit of performance coaching you can double the performance envelope of your machine in a morning.
Road riding is a differant disiplin, and training for it often misses the vital part of the bikes performance as its diluted by dealing with traffic obsticals and situations, as it should be, it will keep you alive.
But riding a bike is a personal thing and not everyone wants the same enjoy ment from it. Even so i personally think eveyone should do some sort of track work or performance only training, then your even more set for what the road can throw at you.
Food for thought perhaps?
Anyway, i'm sure with H21's experience you have evrything to gain.
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Entirely agree Chris. Its very rare for any modern bike (even a beemer) ;D to be ridden beyond the limit of its capabilities on a public road. Its almost always the rider running out of talent/bottle/confidence in the middle of a bend which causes problems. If Tunnie had a day on the track I have little doubt that his knowledge of grip levels of tyres/possible cornering speeds/braking distances etc would be multiplied many times in the space of a few hours. :y
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I have no problem with trackdays and learning limits of adhesion etc, absolutely none. It does inspire confidence in road grip and your own cornering abilities but that comes with a price.
Unless you are intent on only using a bike on a track, it is very easy to transfer track habits onto the road. No, its not just the ex cop biker in me (although, probably does play some part ;D ) but when you introduce traffic coming in the opposite direction, half the width of the available road, tar reinstatements, adverse camber, pedestrians, tractors and muck etc etc etc, thats where real world experience plays a more vital part.
You can be as fast as fck on the track but be a real liability to yourself and others on the real road.
And that is from riders who have done a basic one day bikesafe after doing regular trackdays, thinking they were invincible.
Ultimately, each to their own. :y
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The reason for the big disks on the front is that they can lift the back wheel off the ground - not much point in having back brakes then!!!
I only use the rear brake in the wet to keep the back behind the front and for hill starts.
I happen to disagree with "the system" when it says to brake and block change later instead of dropping down through the gears. Reason: you are presuming that no "event" occurs during your speed adjustment phase that might require an unforeseen change of plan! Or put differently; you are not "always in the right gear at the right time" which was an old maxim.
Certainly worked/still works for me. Depends on your understanding/application of the assorted phases, I suppose.
Its the fact that we are all different that makes the world interesting, suppose. ;)
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not forgetting the crap condition of the roads around my way now, snow has destroyed large sections, making it 'interesting' in some sections
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not forgetting the crap condition of the roads around my way now, snow has destroyed large sections, making it 'interesting' in some sections
Went out today and had to stand up on the pegs to cope with the "terrain" on the old A11! >:(
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Fortunately she didn't need the car today, so I didn't need the bike. Glad, as the wind was bloomin' cold today. Brrrrr!
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not forgetting the crap condition of the roads around my way now, snow has destroyed large sections, making it 'interesting' in some sections
Went out today and had to stand up on the pegs to cope with the "terrain" on the old A11! >:(
you need the Tunsters GS, loads of suspension travel.
That reminds me, off road experience, something i never got round to on a bike. On the bucket list. :y
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not forgetting the crap condition of the roads around my way now, snow has destroyed large sections, making it 'interesting' in some sections
Went out today and had to stand up on the pegs to cope with the "terrain" on the old A11! >:(
you need the Tunsters GS, loads of suspension travel.
That reminds me, off road experience, something i never got round to on a bike. On the bucket list. :y
Do some courses up the road, i'll find the link. Reasonable prices, and looked like a good day out :y
And ohhh yes GS is a nice soft and smooooooth ride 8-)
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Fortunately she didn't need the car today, so I didn't need the bike. Glad, as the wind was bloomin' cold today. Brrrrr!
You want some of those gay heated grips then ::)
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My old VFR 800 had linked brakes but it didn't matter which way you operated them as either the brake lever or pedal would operate both front and rear at the same time.I was always taught to use front first and then rear.The only time this differed was if you were turning/manouvering at slow spped then use the rear to control the speed of the bike as it is less aggressive.I have also found it useful to use the rear only if going into a corner a little too quickly as it stops the chance of coming off.I did a Bikesafe course with Lincolnshire Police and it was well worth the money. :y
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Dragging the rear brake can help a lot in tight U-turns. (Having saId previously that I only use it in the wet and for hill starts!)
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As a biker of some 30 years experience, my advice is to use the gears in conjunction with the brakes, and both brakes to be utilised together, regardless of the fact they are linked electronically. My last Honda thou' had linked brakes, but they do not take account of the fact you have less "feel" through them. Personally, I hate linked brakes and am glad my 900 Suzi doesnt have them.
Mike
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I have no problem with trackdays and learning limits of adhesion etc, absolutely none. It does inspire confidence in road grip and your own cornering abilities but that comes with a price.
Unless you are intent on only using a bike on a track, it is very easy to transfer track habits onto the road. No, its not just the ex cop biker in me (although, probably does play some part ;D ) but when you introduce traffic coming in the opposite direction, half the width of the available road, tar reinstatements, adverse camber, pedestrians, tractors and muck etc etc etc, thats where real world experience plays a more vital part.
You can be as fast as fck on the track but be a real liability to yourself and others on the real road.
And that is from riders who have done a basic one day bikesafe after doing regular trackdays, thinking they were invincible.
Ultimately, each to their own. :y
I think we need to remember who this thread is aimed at, Tunnie is no stunt jocky afaict, without ever meeting him or seeing him ride.
I defy any individual to take nothing from any given training situation.
Tunnies chalenge imo, is to take it all in, pick what he needs and apply it correctly to his situation.
Your comments also remind me of a trackday at Oulton Park, local plod turned up to take part. 3 marked police bikes, a pan and a couple of beemers. They turned into the padock, all line asturn, feet up, and nearing the garages trying particularly hard to ride as slow as possible without taking a dab.
Apparently some derission was aired when told they would be in the novice group. Word spread throughout the paddock and pit wall was alot busier than normal when thier session started, you can imagine the reaction when the last of the group of 3 ran wide at turn 1 in his blind determination to perform a life saver before turning in.
Fair play though, they had a go, and found it, quote "eye opening", going by his tone and expression i'd say that was something of an understatement. Thier instructer said they took alot of possitives from it. Always worth a look at the other side of the coin...and ALWAYS with an open mind.
One of our number is a Police pursuit rider, has a wardrobe full of unmarked gear for under cover work, and gets a range of bikes to ride from Bkackbirds to Speed Tripples to RF900s following him highlighted several points of imorovement for me, living in Milton Keynes he was very good and accelerating into round abouts to avoid traffic with right if way, where normally you might pull up and stop and risk getting rammed from behind. Far safer.
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Dragging the rear brake can help a lot in tight U-turns. (Having saId previously that I only use it in the wet and for hill starts!)
U-turns was my biggest problem, nailed it in the end though. I don't risk it with beemer i just swing in the paddle back, the drive forwards in a 3 pointer.
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<bla.. bla.. Edit>
One of our number is a Police pursuit rider, has a wardrobe full of unmarked gear for under cover work, and gets a range of bikes to ride from Bkackbirds to Speed Tripples to RF900s following him highlighted several points of imorovement for me, living in Milton Keynes he was very good and accelerating into round abouts to avoid traffic with right if way, where normally you might pull up and stop and risk getting rammed from behind. Far safer.
I was under the impression that they banned any bikes from pursuits. Have they gone back on that?
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Read and understand what you say Chris, as regards who the thread was started by and who the subsequent advice is intended for. ;)
A trackday would be a good thing to increase learning and confidence. What I would hope would not happen is that anyone, after attending such a day, starts to wear their underpants outside their leathers thinking they are now Superman after having a taste of a wide road and everyone going in the same direction. How often do you see folks leaving a racetrack, be that bike or car, thinking that it was they themselves who actually toof the checkered flag? ;D
T is still very much in learning mode and, as you see, is still using some of the initial CBT basic info as regards brake use - order, dragging the rear and the like - as though it were writ in tablets of stone to be adhered to for everafter.
As you say yourself, the trafpol bikers were still insistant on a full headcheck before turning in and got rightly ripped for it.
Folks need to cherry pick whats important and then distil that into how it applies to their riding requirements, not how others round and about should now fit into theirs, if you follow. :y
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lets hope that truncheon induced bolt upright riding position doesnt take its toll on Tunnie too much. Have you told him about the initiation? ;D :P