Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Tonka. on 31 May 2010, 22:30:16
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Do we have any domestic appliance technicians on OOF ?
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Yes we do :y
Stokie Steve Topman :y
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Thanks Daz. :y :y :y
Will get in touch with him. If any body else is a domestic appliance technician the more brains the better :y :y
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Do we have any domestic appliance technicians on OOF ?
PM sent :y
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Thanks Steve, will check out tomorrow. Will also check the motor brushes whilst I am in there :y :y
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Ow god, hes got a Hotpoint washer....
Just post the fault up..........there not overly complex beasts
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Ow god, hes got a Hotpoint washer....
Just post the fault up..........there not overly complex beasts
Oh God indeed. Two years perfect running. Then all three paddles dropped off. Now this. >:(
It fills, it washes and it drains. But it will not spin :-/
I have cleaned out the drain pump by taking it off and removing a button and an amount of fluff. I have checked the impeller turns freely and it runs whilst the machine drains (by observing it through the drain plug)
Whether containing a load or empty it goes through the wash cycle then it drains but when it comes to spinning it rotates the drum backwards and forwards whilst the drain pump continues to run.
It then stops with the delay start and the start buttons flashing three times with a fifteen second break.
Upon the advice of Stevie Stoke. :y
I have checked the tube from the air chamber to the pressure sensor switch and it is clear of blockages. I have also sucked and blown down the tube and the switch clicks.
Some one has mentioned the motor brushed could be 'weak' but the motor runs okay.
Any ideas fellow OOFers ;)
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Model number would help.
I had one of the Ultima's and it stopped working at certain speeds due to buggered thyristors on the drive circuit board.
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Indeed Mark, you are quite right, a model number would help ::)
Hoover Optima HNL 6166 :y
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the hotpoint machines are designed not to spin if you have an uneven load that would shake the drum to bits ( well ours does), bit of a pain if you want to do a part load, could it be that shake sensor is u/s. :-/
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Just pulled the control board out.
It has signs of burning on the tracks and a couple of the components are blackened. Think it could be 'new board time', bugger :'(
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Just pulled the control board out.
It has signs of burning on the tracks and a couple of the components are blackened. Think it could be 'new board time', bugger :'(
Lol, sounds familiar of my hotpoint.
I repaired my board which kept the machine going for another 18 months before the bearings let go in a big way (without any prior warning!)
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is there any way you can identify the components or are they too burnt, only ive got 100`s of resistors capacators etc that i could dig through. :y
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is there any way you can identify the components or are they too burnt, only ive got 100`s of resistors capacators etc that i could dig through. :y
I will have a go :y
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3 flashing lights on a hoover model relates to a pump timeout code (3mins) according to the web.
Remember that just because the level switch is clicking does not guarantee correct operation.
Can you post pics of the your charred circuit board.
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i wonder what the chances are of getting the schematics for the board?. :-/
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Sorry to crash in on your post Tonkapaj but i too have a problem! :'(
We have a Hotpoint Aquarius WML560 & its 'Fatigued' for want of another word! ::)
Some-one (no names mentioned) spilt a whole jug of water over the top & now it doesn't work >:(
Will light up, lock the door but then nothing!
Have looked inside from the back & can't see anything untoward & as suggested by a neighbour, i've looked at the circuit board but no signs of anything burnt.
Just out of warranty (always the case!) & the 3yr extended warranty from the shop is nul & void cos the buggers have gone bust >:(
Any ideas please :-/
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Sorry to crash in on your post Tonkapaj but i too have a problem! :'(
We have a Hotpoint Aquarius WML560 & its 'Fatigued' for want of another word! ::)
Some-one (no names mentioned) spilt a whole jug of water over the top & now it doesn't work >:(
Will light up, lock the door but then nothing!
Have looked inside from the back & can't see anything untoward & as suggested by a neighbour, i've looked at the circuit board but no signs of anything burnt.
Just out of warranty (always the case!) & the 3yr extended warranty from the shop is nul & void cos the buggers have gone bust >:(
Any ideas please :-/
I am considering a wash tub and a dolly. Can't break that ::)
I really have no idea about these things but maybe make sure it has really dried out. Damn things ;)
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As requested, pictures and descriptions as best I can:
The main board. You can see the burnt track (an inverted 'T' shape) at the top. With a small unidentifiable black component at the top of the track.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u162/Tonkapaj/Hoover%20HNL%206166/largeboardoof.jpg)
The small unidentifiable black component. Top, just left of centre.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u162/Tonkapaj/Hoover%20HNL%206166/smallblackoof.jpg)
The large black component above IC2. It is marked
K638
LNK305PN
40559A
Also, one of the tracks seems to terminate at the blue cylinder on the far left of this picture. It is marked.
10uf
400v
SK85oC
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u162/Tonkapaj/Hoover%20HNL%206166/largeblackoof.jpg)
Hope this of some use :y
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is resistor R114 burnt or is it just the light?.the blue cylinders as you put it are capacators & dont look like the have blown.
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is resistor R114 burnt or is it just the light?.the blue cylinders as you put it are capacators & dont look like the have blown.
R114 is very near IC2 and I think it has just marked it ;)
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Sorry to crash in on your post Tonkapaj but i too have a problem! :'(
We have a Hotpoint Aquarius WML560 & its 'Fatigued' for want of another word! ::)
Some-one (no names mentioned) spilt a whole jug of water over the top & now it doesn't work >:(
Will light up, lock the door but then nothing!
Have looked inside from the back & can't see anything untoward & as suggested by a neighbour, i've looked at the circuit board but no signs of anything burnt.
Just out of warranty (always the case!) & the 3yr extended warranty from the shop is nul & void cos the buggers have gone bust >:(
Any ideas please :-/
I am considering a wash tub and a dolly. Can't break that ::)
I really have no idea about these things but maybe make sure it has really dried out. Damn things ;)
Already hired one of those & is now a permanent fixture ....... it's called THE WIFE!! ;) :D :D :D
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the component on the "inverted T" seems to be a surface mounted diode, but i dont know how to ID these, although if you can find out the value it would only be pennies to replace it.
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the component on the "inverted T" seems to be a surface mounted diode, but i dont know how to ID these, although if you can find out the value it would only be pennies to replace it.
Ah haaa! After cleaning the soot off I can read it with a magnifying glass ::) ::)
SM
68A
:y
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the component on the "inverted T" seems to be a surface mounted diode, but i dont know how to ID these, although if you can find out the value it would only be pennies to replace it.
Ah haaa! After cleaning the soot off I can read it with a magnifying glass ::) ::)
SM
68A
:y
ive got to go out now but will have a look for that component when i get back, although Mark probably knows what its value is with those details with a bit of luck :y
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Thanks for all of your help so far :y
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I suspect that looking at it, there is nothing truely failed.
All to often you see poor design in these items with PCB tracks that can only just handle the currents thrust upon them and resistors that are driven to the point where they just about manage to not burn the paint off them.
You can test the diode (as it is a larger surface mount diode in the pic) with a continuity tester.
But do test the continuity on the level switch.
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But do test the continuity on the level switch.
When I blow down the tube I get continuity. When I don't blow, I dont get continuity. Thats good I think :y
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But do test the continuity on the level switch.
When I blow down the tube I get continuity. When I don't blow, I dont get continuity. Thats good I think :y
And can you blow through the tube into the drum section?
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Yes, its clear. ;)
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The machine is now sorted. Well nearly......
I got a local technician to come out and have a look at the thing.
After a lot of probing, we found an earth leakage on the heating element which caused the PCB to blacken.
If you remember earlier, it had new paddles fitted a while ago. When the paddle broke, it took a tea shirt into the drum and we think it caused some damage which only just came to light.
The tea shirt hit the element, broke off the element retainer and caused an earth leakage. So the element is on order as is the retainer and a new drum seal.
The PCB 'may' be okay as Mark says. Crossed fingers.
So Friday, I will be removing and splitting the drum. >:( >:(
WHAT JOY ;D ;D :y
Thanks for all of your help guys. :y