Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: handy on 01 June 2011, 21:47:38
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Hi everyone,
Complete novice on most DIY jobs, and hoping there are a few builders or frame fitters on here
Ive just moved into a property that has a brick shed without a door, Ive got a door that fits perfect for the height but about inch short on the width, anyways its going in there :-)
My question is what can i use to fix the frame into the brickwork (facebrick) ive been reading about the frame fixing screws with the hex head, do i need to predrill a hole into the brick? the ones in screwfix are 7.5mmx120mm
so do i need to predrill the hole at 7mm? Also i will be fitting the hinge side flush againt the brickwork so the 1 inch gap then will be at the door handle end and was going to fill with expanding foam? and after it sets was going to use the same screws
Am i on the right path ??
Cheers
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Hi everyone,
Complete novice on most DIY jobs, and hoping there are a few builders or frame fitters on here
Ive just moved into a property that has a brick shed without a door, Ive got a door that fits perfect for the height but about inch short on the width, anyways its going in there :-)
My question is what can i use to fix the frame into the brickwork (facebrick) ive been reading about the frame fixing screws with the hex head, do i need to predrill a hole into the brick? the ones in screwfix are 7.5mmx120mm
so do i need to predrill the hole at 7mm? Also i will be fitting the hinge side flush againt the brickwork so the 1 inch gap then will be at the door handle end and was going to fill with expanding foam? and after it sets was going to use the same screws
Am i on the right path ??
Cheers
As a window fitter :) you will need a 6.5mm drill bit for the 7.5 torx fixing. As the door is only app. 27mm narrower than opening, pack each side with wedges, fix frame, narrow bead of expanding foam if desired, once foam has cured gun around frame with silicone. Whereabouts are you
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I would put a piece of wood along one side to fill the 1 inch gap and the use raw plugs and screws into the brick work.
the raw plug used should match the drill bit width. so an 8mm raw plug uses an 8mm drill bit then screw in from there :y
I am not a builder in any form but am not too bad at a bit of DIY
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I would put a piece of wood along one side to fill the 1 inch gap and the use raw plugs and screws into the brick work.
the raw plug used should match the drill bit width. so an 8mm raw plug uses an 8mm drill bit then screw in from there :y
I am not a builder in any form but am not too bad at a bit of DIY
Nope, timber, unless pressure treated is a complete waste of time. Nope again, you don`t fit PVCu frames with plugs & screws, and you don`t fix using the so called "UPVC sleeved screws. You use "torx" fixings and as said, drill bit is 1mm less diameter than the actual fixing. Been fitting windows, doors & conservatories long enough ;)
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I used a rawlplug type thing specially for fitting UPVC windows.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/window-anchor-8-x-100mm-pack-of-10/16018
basically drill a hole straight thro the frame and into the brick, put in the fixing, a light hammer in, a last turn on the screw to tighten and jobs a good 'un. A quick seal with sealant helps if the brickwork is uneven and keeps it water tight. The idea of using wood to pack out is good, give it a good coat of paint first. Pressure treated is a good idea, lots of timber merchants have it.
Its so easy to do, makes you wonder why they charge so much to fit windows ::) ::) ::)
Ken
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cheers guys, looks like its the torx screws all the way
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I used a rawlplug type thing specially for fitting UPVC windows.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/window-anchor-8-x-100mm-pack-of-10/16018
basically drill a hole straight thro the frame and into the brick, put in the fixing, a light hammer in, a last turn on the screw to tighten and jobs a good 'un. A quick seal with sealant helps if the brickwork is uneven and keeps it water tight. The idea of using wood to pack out is good, give it a good coat of paint first. Pressure treated is a good idea, lots of timber merchants have it.
Its so easy to do, makes you wonder why they charge so much to fit windows ::) ::) ::)
Ken
Vast majority of "proper" window fitters won`t touch those with a barge pole :P :P
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As Rob G says, Torx fixings into 1mm undersize holes. Make sure you wedge at or very close to the actual fixing points. Also very important get it nice & square & plumb !
Once fixed , expanding foam around gap between frame & masonry. Let dry , best overnight, trim off excess with stanley knife or similar.
Finish with a nice 20mm ish flat D section glued on with upvc superglue & accelerator to cover foam filling, silicon seal around outside of frame - Job done !
Lots of brownie points from SWMBO to be collected ;D ;D ;D ;D
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will a 6mm drill bit be ok for the 7.5mm fixings or has it got to be the 6.5mm , Got some 6mm sds bits in the shed so rather than buy another
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will a 6mm drill bit be ok for the 7.5mm fixings or has it got to be the 6.5mm , Got some 6mm sds bits in the shed so rather than buy another
7.5mm torx will drive through a 6mm hole with a decent drill. May have to switch to reverse once or twice
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will a 6mm drill bit be ok for the 7.5mm fixings or has it got to be the 6.5mm , Got some 6mm sds bits in the shed so rather than buy another
Ummm ! :-/ :-/ sure the ones i use are 11mm fixings & a 10mm hole. :-/ :-/
Rob G will advise in a mo I'm sure :y :y
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will a 6mm drill bit be ok for the 7.5mm fixings or has it got to be the 6.5mm , Got some 6mm sds bits in the shed so rather than buy another
Ummm ! :-/ :-/ sure the ones i use are 11mm fixings & a 10mm hole. :-/ :-/
Rob G will advise in a mo I'm sure :y :y
:o :o :o Standard is 7.5mm torx & 6.5mm bit
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was going to buy these
http://www.screwfix.com/p/frame-fixing-7-5-x-122mm-pack-of-100/81227
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As Rob G says, Torx fixings into 1mm undersize holes. Make sure you wedge at or very close to the actual fixing points. Also very important get it nice & square & plumb !
Once fixed , expanding foam around gap between frame & masonry. Let dry , best overnight, trim off excess with stanley knife or similar.
Finish with a nice 20mm ish flat D section glued on with upvc superglue & accelerator to cover foam filling, silicon seal around outside of frame - Job done !
Lots of brownie points from SWMBO to be collected ;D ;D ;D ;D
Silicone.............then if it needs to be removed, seemples.
Plastic to plastic..........silicone. Plastic to plaster...........caulk
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I like a bit of Heavy Duty Rob ;D ;D ;D ;D
And instant stick with the old superglue ::) ::) ::)
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Hi Handy,
As Rob G says, whereabouts are you?
Please fill in your location in your profile. You'd be surprised how many members local to you would help you out with any problems. I speak from experience! :y
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I used a rawlplug type thing specially for fitting UPVC windows.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/window-anchor-8-x-100mm-pack-of-10/16018
basically drill a hole straight thro the frame and into the brick, put in the fixing, a light hammer in, a last turn on the screw to tighten and jobs a good 'un. A quick seal with sealant helps if the brickwork is uneven and keeps it water tight. The idea of using wood to pack out is good, give it a good coat of paint first. Pressure treated is a good idea, lots of timber merchants have it.
Its so easy to do, makes you wonder why they charge so much to fit windows ::) ::) ::)
Ken
Vast majority of "proper" window fitters won`t touch those with a barge pole :P :P
Why ?.
Ken
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was going to buy these
http://www.screwfix.com/p/frame-fixing-7-5-x-122mm-pack-of-100/81227
That`s the ones. You need a fix 150mm from corners then at app. 3-350mm centres
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Cardiff here :)
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I used a rawlplug type thing specially for fitting UPVC windows.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/window-anchor-8-x-100mm-pack-of-10/16018
basically drill a hole straight thro the frame and into the brick, put in the fixing, a light hammer in, a last turn on the screw to tighten and jobs a good 'un. A quick seal with sealant helps if the brickwork is uneven and keeps it water tight. The idea of using wood to pack out is good, give it a good coat of paint first. Pressure treated is a good idea, lots of timber merchants have it.
Its so easy to do, makes you wonder why they charge so much to fit windows ::) ::) ::)
Ken
Vast majority of "proper" window fitters won`t touch those with a barge pole :P :P
Why ?.
Ken
If at a later date the door or window needs to be removed for whatever reason, it`s far easier to remove a torx fixing than the sleeved fixings. Reason being, the screw in the plastic sleeve is soft metal and invariably the pozi head will mash up and secondly you will rarely pull the plug from the wall. If you manage to get the screw out you will still have to cut through the plastic sleeve that is stuck in the frame and half in the wall. :)
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
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I like a bit of Heavy Duty Rob ;D ;D ;D ;D
And instant stick with the old superglue ::) ::) ::)
What are you bloody fitting with an 11mm torx :o ;D
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
Is that the adjustment of the 3 hinges? Mine is doing my head in, to the point that I was going to fix the top and bottom locking bits with an angle grinder...... ::) ::) ::)
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I used a rawlplug type thing specially for fitting UPVC windows.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/window-anchor-8-x-100mm-pack-of-10/16018
basically drill a hole straight thro the frame and into the brick, put in the fixing, a light hammer in, a last turn on the screw to tighten and jobs a good 'un. A quick seal with sealant helps if the brickwork is uneven and keeps it water tight. The idea of using wood to pack out is good, give it a good coat of paint first. Pressure treated is a good idea, lots of timber merchants have it.
Its so easy to do, makes you wonder why they charge so much to fit windows ::) ::) ::)
Ken
Vast majority of "proper" window fitters won`t touch those with a barge pole :P :P
Why ?.
Ken
If at a later date the door or window needs to be removed for whatever reason, it`s far easier to remove a torx fixing than the sleeved fixings. Reason being, the screw in the plastic sleeve is soft metal and invariably the pozi head will mash up and secondly you will rarely pull the plug from the wall. If you manage to get the screw out you will still have to cut through the plastic sleeve that is stuck in the frame and half in the wall. :)
Aha, thanks for thanks for the explanation.
Cheers Ken
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
say what??
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
Is that the adjustment of the 3 hinges? Mine is doing my head in, to the point that I was going to fix the top and bottom locking bits with an angle grinder...... ::) ::) ::)
What style of door Vamps, half glass/midrail/reinf. panel below or has it got a full height "feature panel" :question
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
Is that the adjustment of the 3 hinges? Mine is doing my head in, to the point that I was going to fix the top and bottom locking bits with an angle grinder...... ::) ::) ::)
Is it as bad as trying to get a kitchen cabinet door to close properly? I hate that job..
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
Is that the adjustment of the 3 hinges? Mine is doing my head in, to the point that I was going to fix the top and bottom locking bits with an angle grinder...... ::) ::) ::)
What style of door Vamps, half glass/midrail/reinf. panel below or has it got a full height "feature panel" :question
Half glass 2 tall leaded / decorative panes and a panelled bottom half. Problem is when you have to push the handle up to lock, very difficult, have had a few goes at adjusting it..... ::) ::) :-[ :-[
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
Is that the adjustment of the 3 hinges? Mine is doing my head in, to the point that I was going to fix the top and bottom locking bits with an angle grinder...... ::) ::) ::)
Is it as bad as trying to get a kitchen cabinet door to close properly? I hate that job..
[/highlight]
Much much worse...... :'( :'( :'(
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
Is that the adjustment of the 3 hinges? Mine is doing my head in, to the point that I was going to fix the top and bottom locking bits with an angle grinder...... ::) ::) ::)
Is it as bad as trying to get a kitchen cabinet door to close properly? I hate that job..
Both easy 8-)
Toe & heeling? read this. http://www.windowsanddoors.co.uk/estimate/windowsanddoorsinstallation.html
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Cardiff here :)
Bit too far for me. Once the door is fixed, let`s hope it doesn`t need "toe & heeling" ;)
Is that the adjustment of the 3 hinges? Mine is doing my head in, to the point that I was going to fix the top and bottom locking bits with an angle grinder...... ::) ::) ::)
What style of door Vamps, half glass/midrail/reinf. panel below or has it got a full height "feature panel" :question
Half glass 2 tall leaded / decorative panes and a panelled bottom half. Problem is when you have to push the handle up to lock, very difficult, have had a few goes at adjusting it..... ::) ::) :-[ :-[
PM with a link for you to keep in "favourites" ;D
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Both easy 8-)
Show off :P
Here's a question (sorry, I'll just borrow this thread for it ;)) - anyone know if it's permissible to replace a window (garden facing) with a set of patio doors (same width as the window) without getting building regs etc approval? The 'planning portal' is suitably vague, as always.
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I used a rawlplug type thing specially for fitting UPVC windows.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/window-anchor-8-x-100mm-pack-of-10/16018
basically drill a hole straight thro the frame and into the brick, put in the fixing, a light hammer in, a last turn on the screw to tighten and jobs a good 'un. A quick seal with sealant helps if the brickwork is uneven and keeps it water tight. The idea of using wood to pack out is good, give it a good coat of paint first. Pressure treated is a good idea, lots of timber merchants have it.
Its so easy to do, makes you wonder why they charge so much to fit windows ::) ::) ::)
Ken
Vast majority of "proper" window fitters won`t touch those with a barge pole :P :P
Why ?.
Ken
I'd like to know too, as I used to buy and issue thousands of the things to window fitters.
That said, one of them was insistent that he only ever used foam and no fixings, even for doors. He wasn't with us for long!
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Both easy 8-)
Show off :P
Here's a question (sorry, I'll just borrow this thread for it ;)) - anyone know if it's permissible to replace a window (garden facing) with a set of patio doors (same width as the window) without getting building regs etc approval? The 'planning portal' is suitably vague, as always.
Generally no, but a phone call to the local authority would be prudent. Be advised that if you do this yourself you will need a building regulation completion certificate from your local authority (charge varies) or a FENSA certificate from a registered installer
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Both easy 8-)
Show off :P
Here's a question (sorry, I'll just borrow this thread for it ;)) - anyone know if it's permissible to replace a window (garden facing) with a set of patio doors (same width as the window) without getting building regs etc approval? The 'planning portal' is suitably vague, as always.
Generally no, but a phone call to the local authority would be prudent. Be advised that if you do this yourself you will need a building regulation completion certificate from your local authority (charge varies) or a FENSA certificate from a registered installer
Hmm, sounds like it'll be easier just to get a window company in to do it. An Englishman's home is his castle, as long as he doesn't do anything to it.. (like electrics, windows, doors..)
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Both easy 8-)
Show off :P
Here's a question (sorry, I'll just borrow this thread for it ;)) - anyone know if it's permissible to replace a window (garden facing) with a set of patio doors (same width as the window) without getting building regs etc approval? The 'planning portal' is suitably vague, as always.
Generally no, but a phone call to the local authority would be prudent. Be advised that if you do this yourself you will need a building regulation completion certificate from your local authority (charge varies) or a FENSA certificate from a registered installer
Hmm, sounds like it'll be easier just to get a window company in to do it. An Englishman's home is his castle, as long as he doesn't do anything to it.. (like electrics, windows, doors..)
If you don`t envisage moving house for a few years don`t worry about the certs :y
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I like a bit of Heavy Duty Rob ;D ;D ;D ;D
And instant stick with the old superglue ::) ::) ::)
What are you bloody fitting with an 11mm torx :o ;D
sorry mate - was working from memory - not done any for a while - just been in the van & looked -they are 7.5 mm not 11mm ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
bit too heavy 11's :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
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Both easy 8-)
Show off :P
Here's a question (sorry, I'll just borrow this thread for it ;)) - anyone know if it's permissible to replace a window (garden facing) with a set of patio doors (same width as the window) without getting building regs etc approval? The 'planning portal' is suitably vague, as always.
Generally no, but a phone call to the local authority would be prudent. Be advised that if you do this yourself you will need a building regulation completion certificate from your local authority (charge varies) or a FENSA certificate from a registered installer
Hmm, sounds like it'll be easier just to get a window company in to do it. An Englishman's home is his castle, as long as he doesn't do anything to it.. (like electrics, windows, doors..)
If you don`t envisage moving house for a few years don`t worry about the certs :y
For a few years? I'm not sure I can contemplate ever moving again ;D apart from anything else, I can't hope to afford anything better :D (nice though it would be to get away from the pikey neighbour!)
The door will have to wait anyway, until the garden is done - the current patio doors now open out onto 6' of concrete and then the wall of the house next door (after the previous owners children sold off half the garden to a pikeydeveloper) and they'd be much better where the (identical width) window is that looks out onto the remaining garden..
That is once the garden is more than a building site/jungle (the perils of a house where the previous occupants had lived out their remaining years)..
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/249276_10150261928021204_672941203_8880632_6209609_n.jpg)
The big green bush .. things actually take up ~50% of the plan area of the garden. I need a flame thrower ;D