Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Andy B on 07 August 2011, 14:03:26
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I've just got round to looking at the shower in the main bathroom (we have an ensuite so I never use this particular shower). No daughter said weeks ago that it won't turn off on the 'Stop' button, so she's been using the pull cord isolator - not ideal I know.
So, having removed the cover
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k17/Tiff4327/S73F2072.jpg)
and unscrewed the electrickery bit I found this
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k17/Tiff4327/S73F2070.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k17/Tiff4327/S73F2068.jpg)
What do the plumbers &/or sparks reckon? Replace the lot, replace the pcb at aound £36 -plus p&p or optomistically replace the resistor? I'm curious as to why it's got hot in the first place though. :-/
I'll have to check with Triton because the pcb they show on their website has a slightly different part number from this :-/
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These showers are nearly always on half price sale at Argos. Usually something like WAS..... £99.99......NOW.....£49.99..... :y
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These showers are nearly always on half price sale at Argos. Usually something like WAS..... £99.99......NOW.....£49.99..... :y
Never thought of that ;D
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showers are that cheap now its better just to replace the whole lot :y
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In my opinion - electric showers only have a lifespan of about 5 or so years with normal family use.
I see yours was made circa 2001 by the circuit board date.
Best to change whole thing - B&Q have a 8.5Kw Triton model for £55 .
Just remember to check your shower feed cable size. 6mm or 10mm don't go above 8.5Kw on 6mm cable :y :y
Also using the same make will usually go straight on your existing power & water feeds :y
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showers are that cheap now its better just to replace the whole lot :y
As long as the footprint of the replacement shower is the same or I'll have tiling/wiring to do too. ;)
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showers are that cheap now its better just to replace the whole lot :y
As long as the footprint of the replacement shower is the same or I'll have tiling/wiring to do too. ;)
Same make usually match up :y
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In my opinion - electric showers only have a lifespan of about 5 or so years with normal family use.
I see yours was made circa 2001 by the circuit board date.
Best to change whole thing - B&Q have a 8.5Kw Triton model for £55 .
Just remember to check your shower feed cable size. 6mm or 10mm don't go above 8.5Kw on 6mm cable :y :y
Also using the same make will usually go straight on your existing power & water feeds :y
I saw the date too, amazing how time flies, I'd forgotten how long the bathroom had originally been done.
Cable definitely 10mm2, I put it in. In fact I've still got half a roll of it left - I wonder if there's a black market for red & black cable nowadays? ;D ;D
As said above, I want the same footprint re feed & the need for re-tiling :y :y :y
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Off to B&Q ....... :y
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Its cheaper to wait til it rains then dodge outside with the gel ;D ;D ;D ;D
couldn't resist that....sorry :D
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I never repair them over here as I have to offer a warranty on the repair and if something else goes it's difficult to persuade the client that it's not the original fault again.
As said ,they're cheap enough to replace.
Triton's warranty is two years .
NB
I had to replace my own shower booster pump this week . 1.5 bar Grundfoss/ Salamander available E Bay UK circa £95 but neither of the manufacturers would honour warranty outside UK .
I had to buy Grundfoss at trade , € 200 , £ 185 ish.
And you think you're being ripped off. >:(
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If you can't get the same model, Triton make one - Cara I think it is - with multiple cable and water entry points designed to fit over old footprints. Sold mainly to the trade as a replacement unit, hence more Screwfix than B&Q.
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If you can't get the same model, Triton make one - Cara I think it is - with multiple cable and water entry points designed to fit over old footprints. Sold mainly to the trade as a replacement unit, hence more Screwfix than B&Q.
Thanks :y
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If you can't get the same model, Triton make one - Cara I think it is - with multiple cable and water entry points designed to fit over old footprints. Sold mainly to the trade as a replacement unit, hence more Screwfix than B&Q.
Triton T70 gsi &T80 gsi both multiple entry points. But bit more than 55 quid I would think.
Seem to think Screwfix have these on offer at half price - but still gonna be around 80 -90 quid I would say. :y
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what have you done to the poor old zx81!
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Might be worth looking at wickes for a shower, ours is a triton with wickes logo, new shower fitted exactly in the old ones place, saved a load of hassle :y
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Might be worth looking at wickes for a shower, ours is a triton with wickes logo, new shower fitted exactly in the old ones place, saved a load of hassle :y
Saving hassle is exactly what I want! :y :y I look at Wickes too! ;)
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I'm curious as to why it's got hot in the first place though. :-/
PCB build went to the cheapest bidder, and they were more than likely the cheapest because they use components that are right on the edge of their maximum rating when in use.
The resistor doesn't look burnt out, but you can tell it has certainly been getting warm in use which will eventually lead to premature failure.
I'd check the resistor (out of circuit) to see if it has strayed from what it's meant to be rated at for resistance.
I'm struggling to make out the second (and third) colour bands in that pic, but if it is red, red, black then the value of that resistor should be 22[ch937] with a tolerance of ± 5%
If the colour bands are red, red, brown then the value should be 220[ch937] with a tolerance of ± 5%
Looking at the physical size of the resistor, I'd say it's rated at a maximum of ½ watt, so go for the next size up (1 watt) when replacing.
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It looks more like Orange/Red/Brown to me, Martian (320Ohm).. but in case we're both wrong and they're some other colours: http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm
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I agree the resistor looks hot but not yet self-destructed.
Obvious first: Is the push switch under the "stop" button still working?
What are the solder joints on the reverse of the board like? As said, we're talking cheap as possible construction here so they might not have done a great job of building it.
Refreshing each of the joints with a soldering iron and solder would be a good start, and swap one of the non-critical push button switches with the Stop button perhaps?
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I agree the resistor looks hot but not yet self-destructed.
Obvious first: Is the push switch under the "stop" button still working?
What are the solder joints on the reverse of the board like? As said, we're talking cheap as possible construction here so they might not have done a great job of building it.
Refreshing each of the joints with a soldering iron and solder would be a good start, and swap one of the non-critical push button switches with the Stop button perhaps?
Just had another look at this. When either hot water settings are selected a relay makes inside, when STOP is pushed the relays open as they should, but the water continues to flow. Just remove the STOP button from the board &both contacts close when the push button is pushed. It looks like I'll get another shower, I've had my money out of it. ;) ;) ;)
All soldered joints look good. :y :y
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I agree the resistor looks hot but not yet self-destructed.
Obvious first: Is the push switch under the "stop" button still working?
What are the solder joints on the reverse of the board like? As said, we're talking cheap as possible construction here so they might not have done a great job of building it.
Refreshing each of the joints with a soldering iron and solder would be a good start, and swap one of the non-critical push button switches with the Stop button perhaps?
Just had another look at this. When either hot water settings are selected a relay makes inside, when STOP is pushed the relays open as they should, but the water continues to flow. Just remove the STOP button from the board &both contacts close when the push button is pushed. It looks like I'll get another shower, I've had my money out of it. ;) ;) ;)
All soldered joints look good. :y :y
When you press 'stop' and the relays open does the water run cold?
It sounds as though the solonoid valve is sticking open. I suspect the electrics & electronics are still working perfectly despite the cosmetic effects of running hot :-/
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Just had one last for tonight. Yes the water runs cold again after STOP has been pressed but I noticed that if I tapped the black 24VDC relay then the water stopped as it should. And then a proper look revealed the charring around the green cap?
I'll leave it tonight though
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k17/Tiff4327/S73F2087.jpg)
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I think the magic smoke might have come out of that one.. ;D
This may work for a quick repair: http://sjpdesigns.com/poa/lucas.html
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I think the magic smoke might have come out of that one.. ;D
This may work for a quick repair: http://sjpdesigns.com/poa/lucas.html
Do you think Lucas smoke replacement will worrk in a Siemens system ::) ::) ;D ;D
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That reminds me, I think ours is pushing it's luck! thermostat does not seem to be working too well on the high setting, will not cool down, I was blaming the ambient water temperature, but not so sure..... :-/ :-/ :-/ I tend to use the low power setting and seems OK, but given what has been said I think I will change it as it is about 8 or 9 years old.....
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I think the magic smoke might have come out of that one.. ;D
This may work for a quick repair: http://sjpdesigns.com/poa/lucas.html
Do you think Lucas smoke replacement will worrk in a Siemens system ::) ::) ;D ;D
Good point.. there could be some kind of incident resulting from that, or it might work OK for a few years and then blow up twice as bad when the shower makes a bid to take over the rest of the bathroom ;)
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I reckon the burning around that cap is another resistor running a bit hot.
Strikes me.. If you can get it to stop by tapping the relay, the relay is probably sticking on. What's the betting that relay switches the supply to the solenoid valve?
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i can get you a nice new one for £20 if your interested ;)
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I reckon the burning around that cap is another resistor running a bit hot.
Strikes me.. If you can get it to stop by tapping the relay, the relay is probably sticking on. What's the betting that relay switches the supply to the solenoid valve?
Probably.
I'll have a quick look see tomorrow after work but I think that early suggestions to replace the whole thing are looking likely. Triton's spares seem bloody expensive, the main pcb is £66 :-? :-?
Looks like I'll be putting my name down for a bit of OT this coming week end to help pay for it. :(
;)
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i can get you a nice new one for £20 if your interested ;)
new shower or new pcb ? ::)
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i can get you a nice new one for £20 if your interested ;)
Did you get it from a nice bloke in a balaclava, Richie? ;)