Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: fudy on 26 July 2010, 22:15:20
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i called into to a garage of a mates who has all the alignment setup and bumped into another oo user having there's done before mine! :o
they could only adjust the front for me as the rear were still seized :( here are the settings ive come away with
left front right front
camber -1° 43' -2 °19'
caster -4° 43' -5° 36'
toe -0° 05' -0° 05'
total toe -0° 10'
steer ahead -0° 00'
left rear right rear
camber -2° 00' -2° 48' (red)
toe -0° 19' (red) -0° 09'
total toe -0° 27'
thrust angle -0° 05'
i don't think they totally understand the equipment but its cheap :y are these any good?
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Those camber settings will wreck a set of tyres in double quick time ...
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing.
Camber should be -1° 10' and MUST be the same each side !!!
Once the camber is right then, and only then, can the rest be done.
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no, those settings are shitter than shit.
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no, those settings are shitter than shit.
;D ;D ;D ;D
i had a feeling
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These idiots shouldn't be allowed to trade. If you hadn't checked, thats £200 of front rubber they have ruined in 5k >:(
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Those camber settings will wreck a set of tyres in double quick time ...
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing.
Camber should be -1° 10' and MUST be the same each side !!!
Once the camber is right then, and only then, can the rest be done.
Oh contrare mon a me.
Wim will, or have done in the past, dial in a fraction more camber on the pas side to counter the road crown, or, to counter outside edge ware according to how you drive round roundabouts for example.
But whatever, compared to those settings, they should certainly aim for identical both sides.
However I would think the front subframe would need twisting to even up the caster settings first, meaning what they have done is something of a waste of time. Although I'm not that familiar with the tolerances for that setting tbh.
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Oh contrare mon a me.
Wim will, or have done in the past, dial in a fraction more camber on the pas side to counter the road crown, or, to counter outside edge ware according to how you drive round roundabouts for example.
But whatever, compared to those settings, they should certainly aim for identical both sides.
However I would think the front subframe would need twisting to even up the caster settings first, meaning what they have done is something of a waste of time. Although I'm not that familiar with the tolerances for that setting tbh.
front subframe needs twisting!. WTF that dont sound good!
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Oh contrare mon a me.
Wim will, or have done in the past, dial in a fraction more camber on the pas side to counter the road crown, or, to counter outside edge ware according to how you drive round roundabouts for example.
But whatever, compared to those settings, they should certainly aim for identical both sides.
However I would think the front subframe would need twisting to even up the caster settings first, meaning what they have done is something of a waste of time. Although I'm not that familiar with the tolerances for that setting tbh.
front subframe needs twisting!. WTF that dont sound good!
Only means slackening a couple of bolts and a couple of gently WHACKS with a rubber mallet. :y
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Oh contrare mon a me.
Wim will, or have done in the past, dial in a fraction more camber on the pas side to counter the road crown, or, to counter outside edge ware according to how you drive round roundabouts for example.
But whatever, compared to those settings, they should certainly aim for identical both sides.
However I would think the front subframe would need twisting to even up the caster settings first, meaning what they have done is something of a waste of time. Although I'm not that familiar with the tolerances for that setting tbh.
front subframe needs twisting!. WTF that dont sound good!
Only means slackening a couple of bolts and a couple of gently WHACKS with a rubber mallet. :y
One hopes they are correctly calibrated "WHACKS" .. we don't allow gash workmanship on this site you know ... :)
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Correctly Calibrated? Exactly what I said Mr Entwood! ;D
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Oh contrare mon a me.
Wim will, or have done in the past, dial in a fraction more camber on the pas side to counter the road crown, or, to counter outside edge ware according to how you drive round roundabouts for example.
But whatever, compared to those settings, they should certainly aim for identical both sides.
However I would think the front subframe would need twisting to even up the caster settings first, meaning what they have done is something of a waste of time. Although I'm not that familiar with the tolerances for that setting tbh.
front subframe needs twisting!. WTF that dont sound good!
Twisting in it's position, not bending ;D
Tell them , no don't go back unless it's to get your money....
The subframe is bolted to the the chassis, undo the bolts with big grunt, set the caster setting THEN set the camber and toe to that position. Got to be done first as the wishbones and hence shocks and track rods will move with the subframe throwing them all out.
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i would take her down to wim but im worried about the costs plus the fact shes a bit of a banger!
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i would take her down to wim but im worried about the costs plus the fact shes a bit of a banger!
Haven't WIM got someone up North now ??
Nigel Langs Garage
164 Crook Street
Bolton
BL3 6AS
?? If you go to wheels in motion web site, buy tyres, select wheel alignement, you get to the page .. :)
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i had a look a couple of days ago, think it said £115 is that a final price with all adjustments? I dont think its worth taking it back to the first garage.
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.. and regardless of all of this, the back end's all to pot and needs un-siezing and correcting before starting on the front!
Kevin
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Back end of mine was out and seized (can't remember how far out though) and Tony said it wasn't worth paying out for new adjusters as it was close enough.
Those settings are crap though!
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Unfortunately the club discount only applies to the wim centre. Unseizing the rear adjusters, moving the front sub frame and setting the cambers to our settings isn't bad for £111 at the other centres.
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the price sounds great with all that included! Would it matter that ive got different rubber all round? Been on the motorway today and theres a vibration on the front end from around 65 upwards and i could feel it through the floor as well as the wheel, it seemed to be worse with my foot of the accelerator when coasting! Gutted now!
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the price sounds great with all that included! Would it matter that ive got different rubber all round? Been on the motorway today and theres a vibration on the front end from around 65 upwards and i could feel it through the floor as well as the wheel, it seemed to be worse with my foot of the accelerator when coasting! Gutted now!
With those settings check inside edge for tyre ware first off, dings in wheel rim, and obviously wheel balancing. 5 stud balancer is most accurate ime. Also worth checking wishbone bushes as these can start a steering wheel wobble at random moments,(probably not in your case though) and it's sensible to replace any faulty parts or upgrade suspension parts prior to set up and call it job done....for a while ::)
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tnx for all the replies!! they must have messed up the balancing on the tyres, forgot to mention (honest) that i got two part worn tyres while i was there! :-[ they looked barely used.
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tnx for all the replies!! they must have messed up the balancing on the tyres, forgot to mention (honest) that i got two part worn tyres while i was there! :-[ they looked barely used.
Ah, most likely, but just check they are not miss shaped or out of round, that's quit a large range for wheel speed related vibration. For instance 140 grams is a lot of wheel weight, but the vibration didn't show unti about 80 mph on mine. But don't panic, it's probably just balancing.
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I'm gonna go back and get the balancing checked! I cannot moan too much about the alignment cos i got it on a free! its normally £30
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im sure I read somewhere that WIM would provide their settings by pm to people who are too far away to get to them........or am I imagining this?
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I know nigel langs in bolton used to use the wim settings john but as there now part of the franchise you have to pay the wim price.
Which is fair enough in my book :y