Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 30 January 2011, 17:42:35
-
Hi there, hope you're all well.
I have just finished removing the rust, filling and respraying my wheel arch.
im really pleased that the rust has gone for now but i defo need to respray as that didnt go brilliantly.
well anyway here's pics of what i used and what i did and as long as you dont balls up the spraying part like me it will all be great :)
first off, the bits i had to buy......
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j453/Webbybear/Omega/205.jpg)
you will note i bought a grey primer but actually i went and bought a white primer in the end cos i wanted a lighter finish than last time.
the problem.......
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j453/Webbybear/Omega/206.jpg)
not too bad but annoying!
pic of the area covered in rust remover....
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j453/Webbybear/Omega/207.jpg)
....and how the rust remover removed rust easily (after 5 or 6 coats and 20-30 mins between each coat. bad photo but it is down to the metal.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j453/Webbybear/Omega/208.jpg)
then once residue of rust remover fully dried and a clean later i filled it with the p38 filler. ive got to say this stuff rather stinks and i nearly vommed. as per the pic below i mixed it up and layered it on thick.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j453/Webbybear/Omega/209.jpg)
sanded it down by hand using the sand paper taken from my black n decker mouse. firstly used the coarse sand paper to shape and finished off with fine paper. i couldnt have hoped for a better finish. and the pic below shows it sanded, cleaned and primed (colour white)
unfortunately my camera is full of memory so i couldnt take photos of the finished paint spray/lacker afterwards but ill get these tomorrow.
as i said the only way i ballsed it up was cos id sprayed a bit of primer under the newspaper.
ill rectify this prob next weekend.
ill be honest this is the first thing ive really done diy style to do with my car. not bad i think and ill rectify spray next weekend. at least its better than being rusty :)
i hope this helps :)
-
oops sorry forgot the pic of sanded, cleaned and primed.................
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j453/Webbybear/Omega/211.jpg)
-
The rust will reappear within weeks. simply painting rust remover over rusted steel will do nothing. you should have ground out ALL the rotted metal and filled it firstly with a chopped strand glassfibre filler and finished off with a polyester paste filler prior to sanding and painting.
Also, to prevent the rust from returning oil should be introduced behind the repair(accessed from within the boot area) and underseal applied under the wheelarch :y
-
to be honest i just followed the advice of the bloke in halfords. if it comes back ill do it again... will keep me out the wife's way ;D ;D ;D
-
Yep, I think you'll need to attack the reason why it's rusted first then cut out any rust and rebuild it back.
However, what you have done will slow it down a little. :y
Incidently, as long as you don't have a towbar fitted you can take the rear bumper off in about 10 mins. :y
-
cheers guys, ill keep my eye on it and whatever the result ill let you guys know :):) sharing best practises and all ;)
-
Looks like you missed a rust bubble there, too (just to the right of the treated area)?
And yeah.. only one answer unfortunately.. hack it out with the grinder.
-
i'm geussing we'll be seeing these photos again in around about six months but i take my hat off to all diy'ers good for you we all learn by doing and next time i would advise in a grinder rust preventitive is all in well but it wont kill rust it's more preventitive than anything!
-
i'm geussing we'll be seeing these photos again in around about six months but i take my hat off to all diy'ers good for you we all learn by doing and next time i would advise in a grinder rust preventitive is all in well but it wont kill rust it's more preventitive than anything!
:y :y :y :y :y :y
-
the way it should be done is grind all the rust away to bare metal,then use the rust converter,wash it of with plenty of water,then use your filler,when its dry sand it down,then cover wih etch primer,then use filler primer,rub down with some fine paper then spray top coat.
as said before if you can do the inside as well you on a winner.
-
I went mad with Waxoyl in the arches about 3 - 4 years ago
-
I went mad with Waxoyl in the arches about 3 - 4 years ago
That explains it! ;D
Obviously the meds are having little effect now? Best book an appointment with a suitable medical proffesional..... :y
-
I went mad with Waxoyl in the arches about 3 - 4 years ago
That explains it! ;D
Obviously the meds are having little effect now? Best book an appointment with a suitable medical proffesional..... :y
ROFLOL
-
I went mad with Waxoyl in the arches about 3 - 4 years ago
That explains it! ;D
Obviously the meds are having little effect now? Best book an appointment with a suitable medical proffesional..... :y
ROFLOL
Fantastic. I went mad wth Waxoyl!
Webby. I couldn't see any rust to be treated. I took your photo and enlarged it on Photoshop. Only then could I see a tiny,tiny blemish. If you want to practice on real rust you can do mine. I think you can actually see into the back through one patch of real rust on the back door. ;D ;D ;D
-
I dont know a hell of a lot about painting etc. But I would offer two tips.
1.Dont use Halfords paint - its shite
2.Dont take advice from Halfords staff - they,re shite.
;)
-
There are some excellent producst that do sort the rust, there not cheap though.
I have used them a few times on restoration jobs and you end up with bare shiney metal and if treated and painted correctly, the rust does not return.
-
Got any details please Mark. Could be very useful, considering the age of most Omegas now. :y
-
I went mad about 3 - 4 years ago
As recently as that ? :-/ ::)
:D ;D ;D
-
I went mad about 3 - 4 years ago
As recently as that ? :-/ ::)
:D ;D ;D
At least no wheel arch rust!
Put loads in both rear arches and in the cills
-
I hope that area was sanded before paint ::)
-
Got any details please Mark. Could be very useful, considering the age of most Omegas now. :y
two words
bilt hamber
not cheap but very very good
-
Has anyone tried lead loading?
-
Got any details please Mark. Could be very useful, considering the age of most Omegas now. :y
http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html
Bilt-Hamber and yes, it does exactly as it shows in the photo! :y
-
Has anyone tried lead loading?
Difficult to get hold of now......for obvious reasons! :y
-
Frosts do a complete starter pack for lead loading
http://www.frost.co.uk/
And i agree about the bilthamber, as far as i'm concerned its a wonder product although the powder is better than the gel
Andy
-
Yes agree BH is the product I went for as it's directed more towards restoring classics and they have a large range of products which cover all aspects of rust treatment and prevention.A word of advice with the rust killer you need a reasonably mild /warm day if your working outside as it needs a minimum of 11+Degrees for it to cure or it won't work,good stuff though but it still comes down to thorough prep and attention to detail. [smiley=wink.gif] :y
-
yep cant treat rust only way is cut it out
and trust me never use blood halffords rattle cans the paint is shit
if you must use rattel cans
go to your local paint factors and get to mix up some proper paint and fill up there rattel cans
not onywill you have proper paint them cans will spray better
nitro it not really the air temprituer that the problem
it the panel temp your working and humidity is more your problem if your clear coating as well
if you use a heat gun you can warm it that
only rattel can stuff that is any good is the mixed paint factors stuff
and u-pol cans
upol high build primer is great for spot repairs
to doo the pain mask off a slitly largher area that the repare and primer it with a high build primmer feather it in
now you going to have to blend the panel if clear coated then open a larger arear on mask and blend in color
then whol panel will need re clearing on less you get the good place where you can blend and polish it
if not cleard it easy to blend then color sand and polish
you can aid the blending but by praying mainly thiners and just a touch of pain for final color coat and on edge
troble is it easy to do a hole panel as long as you prep it right and use common sence
but blending and sport repairs are a art that you have to pratice and learn
and it not going to go right if you only had a few gos at it
some colors are a nightmare to blend epecily siver mertalics
also blending metalics is hard as you have to try and imitate the spray paten of the last spray or fatory finish for it to look right
if you dont know how to do it worth get a pro to do it if it a decent car
unless you spray your self well
I can spray but am not that great at belnding and spot repaires
so use a local spot repaire guy that a wizard with a spay gun
-
all good reading guys as Im in the same boat! As well as the normal slight bubbling under the windows Ive got one dodgy wheelarch which I'll probably leave until feb/marchs bad weather is all gone. Had a rust scab done on it 2 years ago along with some spots on bottom of door panels. Panels still OK but wheelarch issue is starting to come back. Always feel that once the rust is there its always going to return at some point. Anyhow, in the meantime Ive scraped the crap from inside of the arch and put some underseal on and just make sure theres plenty of wax and AC50 on the surface area . Doesnt help living next to the sea with all the salt and sand-though our Toyota Emina jap import which is 16 years old and wasnt undersealed until waxoyled when we got it has not one bit of rust apart from the wipers!
-
Another vote for Bilt Hamber from me. Their etch weld primer is super stuff and the gel rust remover is excellent.
Also, someone mentioned using underseal but much better to use a decent stone chip covering as it doesn't dry out and trap moisture underneath between it and the bare metal surface.