Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: omegod on 16 March 2011, 20:12:27
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Got a 53 Corsa 1.0, 3 cyl jobby. Seems to have a rattle for 3-4 seconds on the first start of the day, I'm thinking the hydraulic chain tensioner is filling up, any ideas why this would be draining? oil is up to the level and once started it runs sweet all day.
I know the chains can stretch on these but think this one is ok, any helpful tips or experience of these?
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what's the mileage?
they're very well known for having rattly timing chains but i would have suggested the oil being settled
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they all seem to rattle after 15,20 thou.its an easy job to change them aswell.ive done a few.paul
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Would go with rattling timing chain very common on them ;)
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Yeh, timing chain, not hard to do and is a classic symptom of poor servicing.
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Yeh, timing chain, not hard to do and is a classic symptom of poor servicing.
I was about to say it's had seven main dealer services but these days that means naff all ;D, 70k on it.
Never done a chain before but willing to give it a go, anyone got a decent guide?
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you need a locking pin and a tool for holding the cams in place but ive done them without em.just make sure you mark cams with tipex or a spot of paint.ive just done the belt on my elite and v6 calibra without locking tools and both spot on.paul :)
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The cam tool is nothing more than a bar of metal (so easily made) and instead of pins, the correct size drill bits do the same job.
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you need a locking pin and a tool for holding the cams in place but ive done them without em.just make sure you mark cams with tipex or a spot of paint.ive just done the belt on my elite and v6 calibra without locking tools and both spot on.paul :)
They wont be, thats guaranteed!
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ive just done the belt on my elite and v6 calibra without locking tools and both spot on.paul :)
Oppps!
I can pretty much guarantee thats out, esp on the Calibra (2.5), and on the Elite if its a 2.5 or 3.0...
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This ones gonna run.( bet ya) ;D
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This ones gonna run.( bet ya) ;D
I was thinking the very same ;D, must remember to nick some tippex from work tomorrow :D
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the calis a 2.5 and the elites a 3.0.had the covers of em a couple of days after and had done a couple of hundread miles in both and both still spot on.paul :)
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the calis a 2.5 and the elites a 3.0.had the covers of em a couple of days after and had done a couple of hundread miles in both and both still spot on.paul :)
how can you tell?, with just the 'rough guide' cutouts to guide you
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the calis a 2.5 and the elites a 3.0.had the covers of em a couple of days after and had done a couple of hundread miles in both and both still spot on.paul :)
Without the timing horseshoe, you cannot tell. In fact, without the crank lock, you can't even tell that is spot on ;)
You can make some kind of estimate using the (desperately inaccurate) case markings - this will ensure its no more than 1 tooth, possibly 2 teeth, out - which is OK (just!) in an emergency, but really needs to be set properly at the first opportunity :)
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all the tipex marks i made line up spot on.i always use an autodata timeing belt book.ive done loads of belts and chains over the years without spechel tools.paul
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all the tipex marks i made line up spot on.i always use an autodata timeing belt book.ive done loads of belts and chains over the years without spechel tools.paul
I agree most 16v, even many 24v, engines can be done without the tools. The GM V6 is not one of those.
Many mechanics think you can do without. In every single case, they are wrong, which is obvious to see when we do these cambelt meets, and find so many that are out. The mobile mechanics here - DLK, EP, JV6 etc - will all confirm that the numbers they see that are out (because a previous mechanic thought it was possible to change without the kit) is very significant.
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Quite apart from the fact that you won't get the timing accurate without the locking tools, it must make the job 10 times more difficult with the cams moving around. (don't tell me you locked them with a couple of mole grips.)
All for the sake of a 50 quid kit (only half the cost of the cam belt and tensioners, remember).
Kevin
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with me caly they moved a tiny bit.so lined em up n locked em with 2 stumpy screwdrivers.in all the ones ive done over the years ive never had a prob yet.touch wood.the worst 1 ive ever done was a gsi vectra cos theres no room the engines so tight on the inner wing.paul
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True. There is a lot better access to the cam belt when the correct wheels are driven. :y
Kevin
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your not wrong there.i wont work on vectras if i can help it.there total poo.paul
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with me caly they moved a tiny bit.so lined em up n locked em with 2 stumpy screwdrivers.in all the ones ive done over the years ive never had a prob yet.touch wood.the worst 1 ive ever done was a gsi vectra cos theres no room the engines so tight on the inner wing.paul
I find the Calibras the worst.
But, you will be amazed how far out the timing is by eye as the crank reference is not great and the two banks are timed differently so the pots dont share the load so well.
The biggest issue is that the iming affects the static tension setting quite a bit and this is where the risk is (on top of the engine not performing to its best).
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i did a 3.0l omega a couple of mths ago that had a new belt fitted at a vx dealer and was running like a nail.striped it down and was 2 teeth out.and they said it was done right.hes never had a prob with it since in over 15000 miles.paul