Omega Owners Forum

Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Psychoca on 06 May 2011, 15:28:36

Title: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: Psychoca on 06 May 2011, 15:28:36
Just wondering, is there a special tool I need, or can I use my usual misuse of a G-Clamp???
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: Martian on 06 May 2011, 15:34:09
I do believe the piston pops back in the same way the fronts do as the rear shoes responsible for the handbrake are inside the disc where it slots over the hub assembly.
The wind back tool is only required for vehicles that use the disc pads themselves as the handbrake.


PS
Don't forget to unscrew the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, and apply the pressure from the G clamp slowly to avoid blowing seals back on themselves.
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: geoffr70 on 06 May 2011, 15:35:52
Quote
Just wondering, is there a special tool I need, or can I use my usual misuse of a G-Clamp???

G clamp, with old brake pad
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: Psychoca on 06 May 2011, 15:41:04
Thought I could, its just some have to be wound back on the rears for some reason...
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: Marks DTM Calib on 06 May 2011, 15:48:01
I always open the bleed screw as this

a) Makes it much easier
b) Changes the old brake fluid in the caliper
c) Ensures mater cylinder seals are not damaged
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: TheBoy on 06 May 2011, 18:20:23
Remember the rears have 2 pistons, so 2 clamps required ;D
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: amba on 06 May 2011, 20:21:27
I find it easier to use the old pad, slightly slacken of the blead nipple to expell old fluid in caliper ,and push the piston back in with a wide jawed oil filter removal wrench.

Wide enough to reach around calliper and using the old pad and a small block of wood to avoid marking the back of the calliper ,just squeeze the clamps jaws togeter and the piston just pushes in.

Fit new pads and then couple of pumps on the pedal with the easybleed one-way tube valve attached to get new fluid into the calliper,top up master cylinder and jobs a good ,n.

Take it easy for first few 100 miles to get the bite back into the pads.
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: Martin_1962 on 07 May 2011, 08:53:59
Quote
I always open the bleed screw as this

a) Makes it much easier
b) Changes the old brake fluid in the caliper
c) Ensures mater cylinder seals are not damaged


I think he would be happy to have 2 headlights ;D ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: Martin_1962 on 07 May 2011, 08:55:21
I go through pads quite fast but never had a sticking caliper beyond needing to grease sliders on single piston jobs
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: TheBoy on 07 May 2011, 11:11:38
Quote
I go through pads quite fast but never had a sticking caliper beyond needing to grease sliders on single piston jobs
Rears are more prone to seizing IME... ...kinda makes sense really
Title: Re: Replacement of rear brake pads...
Post by: tunnie on 07 May 2011, 12:38:09
everytime i've come to do rear pads they have been stuck fast and needed the mouting bracket removed!

Jimbob pointed me to these:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht268-disc-brake-piston-spreader

They really did the business on a seized piston.

Although I forgot to release the bleed nipple when pushing the pisons back in  :-[  :-[  :-/