Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: vectrolosys on 30 July 2006, 21:18:58
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Hello,
Apologies in advance for the stupidity of this question.
This week, I am going to be changing my rear strut top mounts. Where at the rear of the car is the best area to place the axle stands? At the front I tend to use the chassis rail running parallel to the sill, just opposite the jacking point. Is it possible to use the rear axle carrier trailing arm mount, or is there a better area?
Thanks in advance,
James
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Rear trailing arm mount just in front of the rear wheel.....where you can see the big bolt into the chassis rail.
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Thanks :).
I'll let you know how I get on, plus probably knock together a quick how to for changing these bushes, if this hasn't already been done.
James
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I always reguard axle stands with a healthy mistrust. I am never completely happy crawling undre the car unless there is a substantial block of wood between the axle stand and the car....and a wheel under there as well. Guess I'm just a coward :-[
EDIT: did you see what happened to the caterham on top gear?
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EDIT: did you see what happened to the caterham on top gear?
Yes but, they are three of the must in-practical useless numpties on the planet! ;D
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Just wish you could get a set of car ramps for an Omega. Would feel far more secure getting under the car especially as I am about to waxoyl everthing in sight.
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Just wish you could get a set of car ramps for an Omega. Would feel far more secure getting under the car especially as I am about to waxoyl everthing in sight.
Just an idea?
How about adapting a normal set with a shortened scaffold plank....ie attach plank to nearly top rung of ramp.....and add a piece of wood 1/2 way along underneath the plank to help take the weight.
The scaffold plank might need narrowing a bit so it fits inside the metal of the car ramps ...but with a jig saw...shouldnt take too long
Dave
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Just wish you could get a set of car ramps for an Omega. Would feel far more secure getting under the car especially as I am about to waxoyl everthing in sight.
Just an idea?
How about adapting a normal set with a shortened scaffold plank....ie attach plank to nearly top rung of ramp.....and add a piece of wood 1/2 way along underneath the plank to help take the weight.
The scaffold plank might need narrowing a bit so it fits inside the metal of the car ramps ...but with a jig saw...shouldnt take too long
Dave
Or ... make/get made 2 steel angle iron 'ladders' to sit on the ramps. Mine work great and sit on the 2nd or 3rd "rung" of the ramps. Senator owners have been there before! 8-)
Andy B
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How about jacking the front up and putting the ramps underneath ? Ok so it's a long winded way of doing it, but safer than axle stands and plenty of room underneath then!
P.
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Hello,
The jack up and place stands underneath approach is one I used when changing the torque convertor neck seal on an E28 shark nose 528i I used to own, you get a lot more space underneath, but you need to have a high lift garage jack to begin with.
James
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Rear trailing arm mount just in front of the rear wheel.....where you can see the big bolt into the chassis rail.
I don't want to appear a dummy, but any chance you could post a picture Mark please?
The reason I ask is I've just tried to position the axle stand and it just doe's not appear safe to me.
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Hello,
I know what you mean, it wasn't a 100% secure position, however, if you jack up with the trolley jack at a slight angle, this gives you enough lee way to slip the axle stand under, directly below that large bolt which bolts in the crossmember that the trailing arm attaches to. I rested the car on the stand, but had my trolley jack taking the majority of the weight, as I always tend to do. I also removed the rear road wheel and slipped it under the side of the car, just for that extra bit of piece of mind.
As regards rust proofing, I had a quick look underneath and touched up some areas with Kurust and black waxoyl. The whole of the rear chassis rail is full of manfacturer holes which will allow you to get the wand into there and spray liberally (as I will do later this summer). I had a look at the sills, and even though their covered with plastic, the drain holes are visible, and actually very large, around 90mm in diameter. Again the waxoyl gun can be aimed up each one to liberally fill the sills.
I think I have a photo somewhere of the car resting on it's axle stand, so you can get an approximate idea.
(http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h38/xj40owner/rear%20top%20mounts/carjacksup.jpg)
This was one taken before I cottoned onto the idea of aiming the jack slightly at an angle, which as said earlier, allowed me to support safely on the stand.
Cheers,
James
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Very useful picture.
Thanks James. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Moderators, I think this picture should be added to a 'How To'.