Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: cem_devecioglu on 01 September 2007, 22:50:10
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Next Week I plan to buy xenon set .Today I go and check the sets.Seems philips is the best option in availables.
Choice is 6000 K.
Any advice please .. :-/
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Never seen a 'philips' Xenon HID set? We are talking the full kit here? Not sure it will be genuine? Any links?
I have just fitted HID's to the CD and I have to say they are the DOGS :y Will never look back again and won't bother wasting money on expensive +30%, +50? etc etc. These are the ONLY way to go!
The 'bosch' branded kit I used (even though I suspect very 'forged') were superb quality from a guy direct in Japan, top guy, top product, TOP service. No import taxes and can actually speak English!
Sorry about this sounding like and advert, it isn't, but i'm so pleased with the outcome and they installed and absolute treat, i'm gonna do a cheeky 'how-to' so that everybody knows the score. If you wanna drop me a PM I will send you a link. 74 squid all in.
The only thing I do think, 6000 k is possibly just a little bit too blue for my liking, looks pretty classy but i'm convinced there are whiter (4300 k are factory spec) so i'm going to buy some more bulbs from the same guy (keep the others as spares) when I will also buy a H7 kit for my MK4 astra and give that a try :y
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Thanks davlad22..
As original lights are weak I decided to change..
First I ask the original omega equipment front lights,ballasts and apparats from the vx/opel dealer
total price is "750 £ converted".. phew :(
After I decided to use ready kits without lenses..
Chinese kits are cheap 35-40 £.But not reliable..
Philips set is also a bit expensive. approx.240 £.from the philips distributor directly
I hope its original..
http://www.geceucusu.com/mods/xenon/1/ (4200 K)
My problem is that
I hear from friends some of the kits light the EML on..
Some say without lenses xenon disturb the other drivers too much..
some say lenses are very hard to correctly assemble etc..
So I'm scared a bit.. :-/
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I was under the impression that a after market HID setup that is not OE ie does not have the washers or the auto levellers would be illegal and would fail the mot? :-/
I suppose if you car already had headlight washers then they would be fine to install?
Karl
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Thanks Karl..
Here the "MOT" is not that critic..If was, believe me too many cars would be out of traffic..
At the beginning I wanted the original with washers and auto levelers but price make it impossible..
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oops hadn't noticed you weren't in ol' blighty! ::) :y
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Right! The kit I used does NOT bring on the EML light, nor does it cause any problens with the 'check control' display. Spot on.
The law states that Xenon HID lights, when factory fitted, require auto levelling and headlamp washers. Levelling so that other drivers are not blinded and washers, because the performance is supposed to degrade more with dirt on the lenses, let me tell you, it doesn't! Aftermarket fitment, well there isn't really any legal documentation? Mr DTM says upon reading the MOT testers guide he also cannot find any reference to aftermarket fitment.
Truth be told, I believe that the xenon system causes LESS glare than bright halogens, which seem to spill light all over. Legality, this is a very grey area, you are not going to get sent to prison for it and the surely the worst that you can recieve is a 'producer' asking you to put the car back standard, that would be if the police officer was getting REALLY shirty!?! Realistically though, with the number of vehicles with xenon lights being increasingly popular, you'd have to be VERY unlucky to get stopped, unless they were faulty.
Headlamp washers, pretty sure they'd be easy enough to fit, all the wiring is present on our CD spec so it would be a case of getting the bits together (quite pricey!), pipework, pump and washer jets. Not found reason to as yet.
Don't be scared! I'll get the 'How to' up a.s.a.p. but it really is VERY easy and mine is a VERY tidy job!
H1 is the fitment you require but here is the link to a guy I purchased mine from in Japan, absolutely reliable;
http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZflea_mark
There's a few people on here that have passed the UK MOT with them and I haven't heard from anybody whose car has failed?
Price wise, I don't think i'd go below about £70 atm just to be sure I was getting a degree of quality. I also believe it is safer to see where you're going, just make sure the lights have a good beam pattern when installed and are not adjusted high. Mine are pin sharp and haven't been flashed once.
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I was under the impression that a after market HID setup that is not OE ie does not have the washers or the auto levellers would be illegal and would fail the mot? :-/
I suppose if you car already had headlight washers then they would be fine to install?
Karl
Illegal, probably. MOT fail, probably not. (Assuming UK obviously)
It really is a very grey area...
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Not sure on what terms it is illegal? If you can find a law i'd be pleased to have a read!
I think it is much safer than modifying the performance of your car!
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Not sure on what terms it is illegal? If you can find a law i'd be pleased to have a read!
I think it is much safer than modifying the performance of your car!
When a car is designed, it has to go through a series of tests, and meet certain rules (things like headlights have to be a certain height, mirrors have to be within so many degrees of normal viewing etc), many of which are not MOT checks.
Some of those related to HIDs are:
The headlights must have very fast acting levelling system (to keep lights from dazzling down bumpy roads, and to overcome loading issues).
The headlights must have a cleaning system, as HIDs are adversely affected by small amounts of traffic grime on the lenses, moreso than halogens.
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Not sure on what terms it is illegal? If you can find a law i'd be pleased to have a read!
I think it is much safer than modifying the performance of your car!
Illegal probably wrong word - not roadworthy, hence illegal to use on public roads.
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Thanks everybody..
The price 54 £ really is cheap..
Now the only question is where it must be connected direclty from the battery or from the front light sockets..
As I understand some people use front light sockets (vx/opel dealer) and some use the battery (little harder) and I think power from the battery directly is more safe...Will see soon.Now will go and talk with the guys..
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Not sure on what terms it is illegal? If you can find a law i'd be pleased to have a read!
I think it is much safer than modifying the performance of your car!
Illegal probably wrong word - not roadworthy, hence illegal to use on public roads.
Aye, I was gonna say! If they were illegal people would not be allowed to sell them. Interestingly TB, I found a massive amount of glare to drivers in front with the suggested Philips Vision Plus 50% installed in the projectors (for very little gain). There is nothing like the same level of annoyance with these HID's - tell me I am biased! :) If I considered them to be in any way dangerous, I would certainly NOT be recommending then or putting anybody's lives at risk by dazzling other motorists UNLIKE the factory fit BMW X5 (and similar) lights which ALWAYS annoy people!
Cem, I think you've literally got your wires crossed! Perhaps you are referring to upgrading the wiring with relays for standard halogens, this is completely different. The ballast packs simply take the feed from the 2 original spade/clip connectors inside the headlamp housing. No additional wiring is necessary, they only draw very low current so do not require direct connection to the battery.
I wouldn't say £54 (approx £75 with delivery) is really cheap but I think they are superb quality for the money. I wouldn't go any cheaper.
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Not sure on what terms it is illegal? If you can find a law i'd be pleased to have a read!
I think it is much safer than modifying the performance of your car!
Illegal probably wrong word - not roadworthy, hence illegal to use on public roads.
Aye, I was gonna say! If they were illegal people would not be allowed to sell them. Interestingly TB, I found a massive amount of glare to drivers in front with the suggested Philips Vision Plus 50% installed in the projectors (for very little gain). There is nothing like the same level of annoyance with these HID's - tell me I am biased! :) If I considered them to be in any way dangerous, I would certainly NOT be recommending then or putting anybody's lives at risk by dazzling other motorists UNLIKE the factory fit BMW X5 (and similar) lights which ALWAYS annoy people!
Cem, I think you've literally got your wires crossed! Perhaps you are referring to upgrading the wiring with relays for standard halogens, this is completely different. The ballast packs simply take the feed from the 2 original spade/clip connectors inside the headlamp housing. No additional wiring is necessary, they only draw very low current so do not require direct connection to the battery.
I wouldn't say £54 (approx £75 with delivery) is really cheap but I think they are superb quality for the money. I wouldn't go any cheaper.
I see aftermarket results dont disturb the people like the extra 100 Watt halogens or new generation bright halogens if the level is not up.
Yep.Normally they draw lower current but only in start up I hear can reach 7-7.5 amp for 1-2 secs which scared me..After a search yesterday (and asking many electricians) I'm convinced its not necessary to use extra wiring..
Thanks for your interest... :y
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Correct, no extra wiring required. The 'startup' is a very 'soft' start and as you say, although it draws extra current initially, it draws approx 1/3rd during normal running (I think that's correct).
Any extra current draw is not a problem because as you know, you would start the engine first then switch on the lights with the engine running, not a problem. They also work with the engine switched off.
If you want to PM me your email address, I will gladly forward some photographs of the work and installation process. Also shows how simple the wiring is. EASY!
I had the same reservations as you but having done it, tis the only way! :y
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Correct, no extra wiring required. The 'startup' is a very 'soft' start and as you say, although it draws extra current initially, it draws approx 1/3rd during normal running (I think that's correct).
Any extra current draw is not a problem because as you know, you would start the engine first then switch on the lights with the engine running, not a problem. They also work with the engine switched off.
If you want to PM me your email address, I will gladly forward some photographs of the work and installation process. Also shows how simple the wiring is. EASY!
I had the same reservations as you but having done it, tis the only way! :y
Write it up and get it posted to Maintenance Guides
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Night update!!
Lights awesome!!! super!!.
Today couldnt resist any more..Bought the kit (from the main seller) and run to the electrician.. (although was simple)
Assembled ..(no screws , used silicone to stick ballasts-but hardly found the place for them away from water)
Contradictory the electrician was more scared than me and connected ballasts to the battery direcly..Philips set has original cables for direct battery connection.I didnt say a word to the man to see what happened.Lights are Ok.Also changed the far - long distance lights with stronger ones.Thay also work super.
Now what is left is (that I predict) the message "front lights" because actually is nothing there..Tomorrow I'll try with tech 2 to switch off ECU front light check..if not successfull have another alternative..(anyway now experimenting phase)
6000 K when heated is crystal white and very little blue..
2 years guarantee for ballasts and bulbs..
sorry for bad language..
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Tut tut tut! Some people never listen! ::) If you had used the original lighting feed like the instructions with mine, you would not get a 'check control' message because there is still a load across the circuit which the ECU senses! Now you've gone and fubar'd it!
Silicone to stick ballasts :o There's a perfectly made panel either side of the radiator! ;D
Write it up and get it posted to Maintenance Guides
Ah, well i've got all the photos read but upon entering the maintainence guide section it appears I am not allowed to 'start a new topic'. :-?
I'm guessing it's because I am not a seasoned stalwart yet, like yourself ;) So access rights permit me from writing the 'How 2'. Maybe The Boy can help out by granting a special wish!?! ;D When possible, I will slap it up as soon as. Looks like you need some as well Mart!
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tut tut tut! Some people never listen! ::) If you had used the original lighting feed like the instructions with mine, you would not get a 'check control' message because there is still a load across the circuit which the ECU senses! Now you've gone and fubar'd it!
Silicone to stick ballasts :o There's a perfectly made panel either side of the radiator! ;D
Write it up and get it posted to Maintenance Guides
Ah, well i've got all the photos read but upon entering the maintainence guide section it appears I am not allowed to 'start a new topic'. :-?
I'm guessing it's because I am not a seasoned stalwart yet, like yourself ;) So access rights permit me from writing the 'How 2'. Maybe The Boy can help out by granting a special wish!?! ;D When possible, I will slap it up as soon as. Looks like you need some as well Mart!
Nobody is allowed to post directly to Maint Guides, as there are a couple of things an Admin has to do first.
Post it up in Test section, then PM me or other mod/admin, and we'll move.
Please include a disclaimer at top about possible legality issues in UK, and also warnings about the high voltage.
:y
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hi all i sell these kits and i have had a set on my omega for about a year philips r cheap but you need 6000 not 4500 the 4500 are ok but not that diverent :y
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hi all i sell these kits and i have had a set on my omega for about a year philips r cheap but you need 6000 not 4500 the 4500 are ok but not that diverent :y
4300K are factory HIDs, and actually have a higher lumen output than 6000K, 8000K, whatever. Yes 6000K have a blue tinge (although the light you see on the road is still pretty close to white) so may be considered to look nicer, but they don't perform better than 4300K. Depends what you're after, there isn't much difference between them though IMO and I've driven cars with both.
Definitely don't go higher than 6000K though or you're into boy racer territory sacrificing light performance for some mythical holy grail of blue/purple light ::)
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Good advice :y
Some people sell 5000k which I expect would be a great compromise but a little more difficult to get hold of.
I fitted aftermarket 6000k which everyone says look really smart but I still think a little too blue. Comparing to our factory spec elite, the elite is definately much whiter and a little brighter. Your call ;)
Sure fatboy knows the perfomance difference between any HID and halogen are like chalk and cheese 8-)
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tut tut tut! Some people never listen! ::) If you had used the original lighting feed like the instructions with mine, you would not get a 'check control' message because there is still a load across the circuit which the ECU senses! Now you've gone and fubar'd it!
Silicone to stick ballasts :o There's a perfectly made panel either side of the radiator! ;D
Write it up and get it posted to Maintenance Guides
Ah, well i've got all the photos read but upon entering the maintainence guide section it appears I am not allowed to 'start a new topic'. :-?
I'm guessing it's because I am not a seasoned stalwart yet, like yourself ;) So access rights permit me from writing the 'How 2'. Maybe The Boy can help out by granting a special wish!?! ;D When possible, I will slap it up as soon as. Looks like you need some as well Mart!
Sorry for not listening you...
The equipment is under the guarantee of the firm and their electrician..If I do it myself they tell they!'ll cancel their guarantee.
Now experiment part 2..
Give up for for the 1 st connection style..
Now second style :Use directly from headlight sockets..But interestingly eletrician include one 4700 mF capacitor in paralel to the ballasts ..To shut the mouth for the meggy...no message now..But this ended up with 15 amp fuse per each channel..Now my idea is to connect one 5 ohm resistance serial to capacitor for lowering the current at start up for getting original 10 amp fuses...As the capacitor resistance is theoritically 0 without charge and infinite at full charge...I think resistance will help...
But still dont understand why they insist on capacitor..(explanation is if the car gives message they use it in every car with normal headlight usage)