Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: vectrolosys on 26 August 2006, 16:28:27
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Hello,
Long time no post (having a new born makes huge demands on your time :) ).
I managed to secure a bit of car hobby time today, so I decided to have a go at fitting one of my replacement rear doors. The door went on a treat, and looks much better than the previous item, which was rather rust on the bottom edge.
Anyway, the door I have put on came off a GLS, therefore no electric windows. I have saved the loom from my old door (which is sat in my shed atm).
My question is this, whilst the carriers for the electric window look similar, they are riveted to the door, which means removal will require drilling out the rivets. Can the electric motor be place in place of the manual regulator, or do I have to change the whole lot?
Failing this, I may just puncture my existing door cards and keep the manual winders, which means I'll end up with a very bizzare spec CDX :).
Thanks in advance for any assistance,
James
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Congratulations on the Baby James :)
I'm fairly sure MarkDTM said in a discussion some time ago that it was a "simple upgrade" to fit elec to the back doors.
I thought he put a "How to" up, but can't find it :-?
Martin
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Personally i'd endure the extra hassle to retain the leccy windows.
Laughed about not having any time due to the wee one, i know exactly how that feels. ;)
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I did a similar thing last year, I just drilled out the rivet's and transfered everything over. The hole's for the rivets should already be in your new door and just feed through the wiring loom and connect, job's a good one!! :)
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Hello,
I took the lazy way out :). I removed the loom from my old doors and put it into my new ones, but I just drilled my door cards and left the manual winders in place. I'll extract the electric winders and will probably get round to it in the future, but, for now, I have the worlds only CDX with manual rear windows.
TBH, I am not fussed, I never use them as I have Climate, my rear passengers, if ever, never use them either, plus it'll probably be safer when my daughter grows, if she doesn't have an electric window to constant play with (though you can shut it off).
I am very very very pleased with the doors though, mine were pretty rusty, but mainly due to paintwork issues, rather than genuine inside out rust.
I treated some small areas on the new doors, waxoyled the insides and touch up some very small rust spots with Kurust and some more waxoyl (I'll properly paint at some point, but their so small and mostly out of site).
I washed and polished the car afterwards. I am very proud at how she has scrubbed up, the rust free doors make a huge difference to the appearance of the car. Issunaz came up trumps with those!!.
All I have to do now is fit my replacement drivers door and it'll be happy days, but, at this present time, the car is very very presentable as is.
Photos of rust to follow.
James
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Glad to hear that you have it sorted and are pleasd with the result. Also congratulations on your daughter!
I have rusing on my doors which is the common weather strip issue. I thought that I would just source better doors and fit those. As my CDX is leather, I will have to change the door cards over though.
Question. What is involved in removing and fitting the doors? Haynes says that you hammer out the hinge pins. Is this correct? Did you encounter any troubles?
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Hello,
The pins can be a bit tricky to remove, but I found, keep them closed, and attack with the front door open. Use a jack handle cover in a cloth (to protect the paintwork) and hammer with a rubber headed mallet at the lip of each pin. It's a painful process but they do move eventually.
I have found a very slight weather strip issue on one of the new doors, but appart from that there great. I examined the rust on my previous doors a bit further. I remember reading at the time that early Omegas suffered from paintwork issues, affecting door edges mainly. Rust would creep inwards under the paint and appear as a bubble. Now I have looked at my old doors and the rust affects the top layer, it's not inside out. I reckon with a grind down, kurust and a skim of filler to remove imperfections, the old doors could be made good again.
For now, on the new doors, I'll remove the weather strip on my one affected door and kurust the area, then apply some hammerite or similar (it's under the strip so shouldn't look too bad).
When you have the doors off, this'll be the best time to swap all your loom and bits. You'll need to drill the window mechanisms out of each door and re-attach, unless you take the JCT Budget CDX approach :).
Ideally it's a two man job, but I managed to get away doing it myself, I found it best to mount the door on the car, lock it shut at the latch, rest my weight near the hinge area, which allowed the hinges to line up, ready to accept the hinge pins, a tap in in much the same way they came out, and their on. My second door took 1/2 an hour start to finish.
The only problem I have now is how to dispose of the old doors, any ideas?
James
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Hi James
Glad you've got the doors on OK :)
If the old ones are no good take them down the tip