Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Martin_1962 on 05 September 2006, 09:10:39
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Did a stall test today - torque converter stall speed is around 2300rpm.
I will check it on the way home when warm to get another reading.
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Sorry,
Please dont take this the wrong way, I just dont understand what possible use this information has?
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Yes, Martin. What on earth is stall speed? I know it's about 65Kt for a small aircraft.
You trying to act like an Omega God or something?
Explain please.
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Could it be that from a standstill, with the caravan hitched up, you put it in fifth, depress the accelerator till the rev counter reaches 2300 rpm, and then drops the clutch?
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Stall speed is where you put the car in drive, apply ALL the brakes and give it full on the accelerator.
Engine will rev to a point, this is the stall speed (revs).
Should not be done for more than about 5 secs at time otherwise torque convertor will overheat.
But it is a way of testing wether your gearbox is slipping or torque convertor is poorly.
Manufactures used to give a figure that if less than a certain revs then all is ok, tho dont know if they still do. And havent a clue what it should be for Omega's.
**Edit Actually not sure about gearbox but does test torque converter
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Maybe it's the point at which the front wheels come off the ground when throttle 'blipped', with fully loaded van?
Edit. Replied too late.
I'm off to try this.
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It might the sort of figure that Haynes would bung in their book, i havent got one so carnt check.
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checked mine, 2300RPM is correct, so I guess my auto box ain't slipping and my torque converter isn't poorly.
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10,600rpm. Took some stamping on the brakes, I can tell you!
OK 2.3K.
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10,600rpm. Took some stamping on the brakes, I can tell you!
OK 2.3K.
;D ;D
And i expect the figure is different depending on engine size/gearbox fitted.
Anybody got a Haynes to see if they quote the figures......tho it seems 2.3k is good :)
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Gis a mo I'll have a shufftie.
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Just been out in mine....would of tried it but it was in 'limp' mode again >:( so didnt see the point.
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Surprisingly Paynes don't mention this.
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Surprisingly Paynes don't mention this.
Oh rite....perhaps its not summat to be tried these days. :-/ I can remember in a mk2 golf auto i tried this....and it was within spec according to haynes....maybe 2 many peeps sued haynes for burning out their torque converters ;D so they removed the info :-/
Seriously tho peeps if you do try this dont give full welly for more than 5 secs coz you CAN overheat the torque converter.
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I did it to test the gear box - wondering if it needed new oil.
The 2.0 wouldn't go over 1800rpm, if other V6s are getting over 2000rpm that is fine
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I did it to test the gear box - wondering if it needed new oil.
The 2.0 wouldn't go over 1800rpm, if other V6s are getting over 2000rpm that is fine
How does that test the gearbox? Does the oil get pumped into the torque converter?
There was a picture somewhere of a V6 engine from the back, on a pallet. I assumed that round thing on the back was the torque converter but I didn't see any oil pipes going into it so I assumed it had oil sealed into it for life.
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Yes that big thing is the evil that is the torque converter... don't get too close, it's to humans what kryptonite is to superman :D
No idea about the oil replacement, but I'd be surprised if it lasts a "lifetime" in there. It gets heated to buggery (that's where half your power goes), and effectively is constantly slipping except when locked out. In a viscous limited-slip diff you usually change the oil every 30-60k, and that only slips when one wheel is travelling faster than the other.
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book of lies suggests autobox fluid change (which I believe shares oil with torque converter) at 100k on cars covering high annual mileage.
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It does use gearbox oil.
And they are pretty efficient
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It does use gearbox oil.
How does it get the oil? I would have though that the oil pump would have to be before the torque converter, driven directly from the engine, otherwise how would the converter get it's oil in the first place. It could have some way of picking the oil up from the small sump I suppose but I thought the pump was after the converter and in the gearbox somewhere, simply because I couldn't see it in the picture of the rear of the engine.
I get really nosy when it come to how things actually work :-))
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I THINK the bottom of the TC is in oil, I hope someone more knoweagable can comment
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That makes a lot of sense now.
Did this in my Mazda 626 a few years ago. It had a very poorly TC, and it would go to over 5K, stops when I could smell something rather nasty!
You know, the funny thing is the car seemed quicker after this tho.
Not recommending you try this. It stinks worse than clutch, and its thick smoke, it is very very nasty!
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That makes a lot of sense now.
Did this in my Mazda 626 a few years ago. It had a very poorly TC, and it would go to over 5K, stops when I could smell something rather nasty!
You know, the funny thing is the car seemed quicker after this tho.
Not recommending you try this. It stinks worse than clutch, and its thick smoke, it is very very nasty!
That'll be the torque converter catching fire ;D
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Still drove for thousands of miles afterwards.
We treated that car so badly.
It was drove through a hedge, drove up and over kerbs, reversed into walls, overheated several times (needle past ond out of the red, not able to go any further off the scale) Driven with no water in the rad, No pressure cap, about 3 tonne of radweld (brought a new rad in the end) we used to have to belt the starter motor with a hammer as it was totally crackered. My kids threw up on it.
Really was a solid car, just too old, and too many problems, but then we only paid £120 for it.
Cracking for comfort tho, I would say on par, iof not better than the Omega!