Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: evanh on 11 September 2006, 20:32:58
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Just want to confirm that the notches should be aligned with the numbered cut outs , releating to what cam it is ie.
(http://homepage.ntlworld.com/n.hazlie/12%20cam.jpg)
cam one points to number 1
cam two points to number 2
(http://homepage.ntlworld.com/n.hazlie/34%20cam.jpg)
cam three points to number 3
cam four points to number 4
also a picture of the cam identifier if someone wants to put it in the other article
(http://homepage.ntlworld.com/n.hazlie/cam%20id.jpg)
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Yep, thats right, with the cams being numbered from 1 through 4 from left to right when viewed from the front.
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thanks for confirming that , rocker covers now back on, ready for the belt
got the dvd now all I need is a locking kit ;)
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Just to clarify the above....
The cams are numbered 1 to 4 from left to right as you look at them.
The cam wheels are fitted with the location dowel on the cam fitting into the slot with the same number.
ie cam 1 has its dowel in slot 1
cam 3 has its dowel in slot 3 etc
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Yep, thats right, with the cams being numbered from 1 through 4 from left to right when viewed from the front.
1-4 :o :o
On the heads Petes got for Allenm, I'm sure they were numbered 1,2,4,4
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they are definatly 1 2 3 4 ;)
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Yep, thats right, with the cams being numbered from 1 through 4 from left to right when viewed from the front.
1-4 :o :o
On the heads Petes got for Allenm, I'm sure they were numbered 1,2,4,4
As supplied the cam pulleys were fitted to the right slots and I have transfered the numbers to the cams so they go back into their correct bearings. So no worries. (except for exhaust manifold studs which are very badly corroded and wasted away. I cant shift them so will have to drill them out and recut the threads)....Matchless (Pete)
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Yep, thats right, with the cams being numbered from 1 through 4 from left to right when viewed from the front.
1-4 :o :o
On the heads Petes got for Allenm, I'm sure they were numbered 1,2,4,4
As supplied the cam pulleys were fitted to the right slots and I have transfered the numbers to the cams so they go back into their correct bearings. So no worries. (except for exhaust manifold studs which are very badly corroded and wasted away. I cant shift them so will have to drill them out and recut the threads)....Matchless (Pete)
Have you got anything you can recommend for recutting the threads as I have a couple of duff manifolds studs to be sorted unless I can get a new head for the car.
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This is getting off-topic...new thread time?
If you have the heads off and have a drilling m/c then use a centre drill to start drilling then step up through your drill sizes slowly, it can be difficult to find the stud centre exactly and you dont want to drill into the threads so care needed.
Once you have a hole right through the stud then you can get some penetrating fluid to the bottom of the threads, often, as you get close to the thread diameter, the remaining stud will move and can then be unscrewed with an easi-out etc otherwise its a case of creeping up on the thread diameter in 0.1mm steps until you can collapse the remaining metal inwards using a scriber or similar.
Clean up the threads with a plug tap.
If you drill by hand you are likely to run off centre so keep checking for any sign of threads appearing in the drilled hole. If you overdo it you will have to have the hole drilled oversize and a helicoil fitted.
iirc tapping drill for M8 is 6.8 mm.
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This is getting off-topic...new thread time?
If you have the heads off and have a drilling m/c then use a centre drill to start drilling then step up through your drill sizes slowly, it can be difficult to find the stud centre exactly and you dont want to drill into the threads so care needed.
Once you have a hole right through the stud then you can get some penetrating fluid to the bottom of the threads, often, as you get close to the thread diameter, the remaining stud will move and can then be unscrewed with an easi-out etc otherwise its a case of creeping up on the thread diameter in 0.1mm steps until you can collapse the remaining metal inwards using a scriber or similar.
Clean up the threads with a plug tap.
If you drill by hand you are likely to run off centre so keep checking for any sign of threads appearing in the drilled hole. If you overdo it you will have to have the hole drilled oversize and a helicoil fitted.
iirc tapping drill for M8 is 6.8 mm.
Apologies for the thread going off topic, I dont have any snapped studs just knackered threads so I think half the battle is won, new thread on subject sounds a good idea. :)