Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: teddy_y2k on 28 September 2006, 01:39:41
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alright lads quck question i am going to need a new cluch in my omega 2.0 16v manual R reg just wonna now how hard is it to do on them i have been quoted £150 just to fit as i will get the cluch my self from vauxhall but my cusin said he will do it for me to save me the cash but just for my sake how hard will it be thanx lads thanx ;)
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Pretty straight forward being rear wheel drive......couple of hours
Get a clucth kit from a factors....they are pretty much all OEM and a lot cheaper than Vaux even with trade club discount.
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As Mark says, its straight forward rwd. 2 hours is only with lots of practice :-[ allow 4 for a first time.
There are two kits about from Sachs and LuK, both are OEM but I think the LuK one includes the release bearing. You will also need a new gasket for the exhaust manifold - downpipe.
Couple of tips:
Flexi joint in exhaust doesnt like being bent so be careful when dropping front pipe off, should be OK with two of you but if only one then consider splinting the joint with a length of wood.
When the box is off, the engine wants to drop down at the back and rocks around as you try to re-align the box so find a piece of timber packing which is a snug fit between rear of engine and crossmember to hold everything still.
Clutch alignment is fairly easy, you can look straight through the cover to the crank spigot bearing so can align by eye.
If you have problems getting the clutch to bleed properly then modify an easy-bleed to push fluid IN through the nipple, air gets trapped in the vertical pipe fro 'box to bulkhead.
HTH, Pete
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Whilst on the subject of clutches I think I may need to re check mine. Gear selecting is fine.
As of late when in reverse and lifting the clutch pedal you can hear the release bearing spinning possibly not greased enough.
Couple of tips but you got the main ones from Matchless who helped me when I did mine at the time.
Make sure you mark the cover plate positioning Paramaount as can be a bugger if you put it back wrong.
When you remove the catalytic convertor you dont need to do what I did and that was remove the exhaust manifold just undo the 4 13mm bolts that attach the cat top pipe to the manifold.
Also when you are removing the gearbox be sure you have the Gear stick removed as the plate it attaches to is bolted to the back of the gearbox with two 13mm bolts again it prevents moving the gearbox back far enough so the centre input shaft is released.
HTH
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No need to remove gear lever, just remove the M6 bolt from gearchange shaft and pull clear of box, remove 2 M8 bolts from gear lever plate to box, but push this plate up out if the way as you pull the box backwards.
Box weight is centred further back than you would expect, put your trolley jack about 3/4 of the way back and keep a good hold of it....they heavy.
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wwwwwwwooooooooooooowwwwwwwwww made up now lads thanx guys thanx mark much apreciated if thats how u spell it sorry but thanx again guys thanx thanx ;)
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wwwwwwwooooooooooooowwwwwwwwww made up now lads thanx guys thanx mark much apreciated if thats how u spell it sorry but thanx again guys thanx thanx ;)
Steady on Dude, it's not like they changed it for you. ;D
Looks like another satisfied customer. ;)
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No need to remove gear lever, just remove the M6 bolt from gearchange shaft and pull clear of box, remove 2 M8 bolts from gear lever plate to box, but push this plate up out if the way as you pull the box backwards.
Box weight is centred further back than you would expect, put your trolley jack about 3/4 of the way back and keep a good hold of it....they heavy.
Did you not find even with pushing the plate up the two lugs where the bolts go through to the Gearbox were getting caught on the box itself could just be me though :)