Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: zealious on 01 November 2006, 04:48:27
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Um when I removed my oil cooler I noticed a bandit hose coming off the fuel regulator. Its a white hose that comes off the top and goes no where. Any ideas? Could be some sort of vacume line.
Anyway its 280USD for a new OE oil cooler. So I got an aftermarket air oil cooler (45.00USD) And im looking for tips and advice on this swap.
So far the plan is to mount it to the back of the front radiator near the bottom and running the hoses from the bottom. The problem is the plate and lines that go on top of the oil cooler and where to run the lines. Looks like im going to have to weld the holes on the plate shut. Im trying to figure out a way to fit the aftermarket hoses to the oil lines here, sort of through the plate using the STOCK valve bolts.
Anyway its hard to discribe.
Anyone got some info for me that might be helpfull?
thanks.
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You want a genuine one and they are a lot cheaper than that.
http://www.autovaux.co.uk/ but you need to phone
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You want a genuine one and they are a lot cheaper than that.
http://www.autovaux.co.uk/ but you need to phone
Probably not much cheaper by time posted to USA... ...anyway, $45 is cheap enough :)
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Run fresh hoses from the connections to the block by the oil filter.....you could run them along the top of the chassis rails in the engine bay.
They will be metric threads by the way, you know, that standard the whole world but the USA have adopted ;)
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Bawa what a bitch job its been. Ill get some pictures and details.
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HOW TO SWAP THE STOCK OIL HEAT EXCHANGER FOR AN AIR OIL/TRANS COOLER.
You need:
Acess to a weld tank, or shop
a trans oil cooler (come in many varieties choose whats best for your climate/driving style.) I went with an all aluminum medium duty from fourseasons due to the hot summers in florida.
temperature guage (optional, recomended)
14 feet of oil hose (1/2" recomended) make sure you get a grade of rubber that can handle hot oil
mounting hard ware
A few extra zippy ties to run the hose
Cutting wheel
and some lube.... to get the hoses on ;)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q179/z3alious/coolerjob003.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q179/z3alious/coolerjob002.jpg)
Im just going to cover on how to bypass the stock system and mount the universal oil cooler. Look under the guides section on how to remove the intake assembly.
Remove the plenum. http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1159298765
Remove the 2 ram intakes at front.
Remove throtle cables if you havent already
The top intake cover has 4 bolts on it. Might take some prying due to little clips on each side. BUT BE GENTLE.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q179/z3alious/where1.jpg)
Then comes the fun 14 bolt arrangement.
As Always. Plug up the intake. with rags.
Remove the 2 banjo bolts that hold the oil cooler in place.
remove the cover plate
This part was tricky ,for me , as non of my sockets were able to wedge between the sides of the the head to get to the bolts.
Solution was to grind down the side of the socket. Also the oil lines are in the way. You will have to disconnect them from the bottom near the filter and wiggle them out of the way. You might need an extra hand.
ahh the stock POS exchanger. Go ahead and throw this thing away.
Weld up the 2 holes on the plate. Take it to a shop if you must. they shouldnt chage much.
If you dont have acess to either. JB weld is an option. I have never heard of people having problems from using JB weld. But its not recomended for the life of the car.
Alright now using a nifty cutting tool. careful cut off the banjo connectors form the oil lines
if your using jb weld method you will need to hold on to these, and also the old cooler will need to be put back.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q179/z3alious/coolerjob001.jpg)
Put your welded plate back w/out cooler
or if using jb weld; put old cooler back, plate JB WELD. banjo bolt. JB WELD
ITs important to seal this part of the engine. COOLANT RUNS THROUGH IT.
NOW
Connect each end of your 14' tube to the 2 oil lines. DO NOT CUT THE TUBE YET
Mount your intake and everything back in place making room for the tubes. its a tight fit but will work MAKE SURE THE TUBE IS CLEAR AND NOT CRIMPED ANYWHERE.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q179/z3alious/coolerjob005.jpg)
now to mount the new oil/trans cooler.
Its best to mount on the drivers side, to the back of the radiator near the fan.
This requires disasembling of the fan and probly removal of the condensor.
To make life easier I mounted on the passanger side
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q179/z3alious/coolerjob007.jpg)
Its a bit tricky to get the zippy ties and sticky foam pads on there right. and u will probly need extra hands. Make sure to use the foam pads as they ensure that the heat from the radiator does not get transfered to the oil cooler.
also its important to mount it pretty low so that way you can have clearance for the hoses. without bending the hoses too much.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q179/z3alious/coolerjob008.jpg)
i mounted my cooler a little too high so Im going to find an L shaped oil inline connector and then an L shaped connector with a screw connector on top for my temperature gauge.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q179/z3alious/coolerjob011.jpg)
walla. Enjoy a better performing and more reliable system for your oil. and know that IT WILL NEVER LEAK SLUDGE AGAIN.
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On the subject of the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator, it should come from the hose just in front of the idle valve.
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maybe move to the how to's? ;)