Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Kes on 18 October 2006, 22:17:08
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To save me typing I cut n pasted from elsewhere .
Hi all last time I posted on this problem I took the majority of advice and changed the cam sensor but this did not solve it .
I will try to explain my symptons .
I know its been on here before By other members I am hitting a brick wall at 3750 rpm .
Firstly this does not happen when car is cold only when full operating temp is reached 85-90 on the temp guage .
I have even had the car on the drive warming up and freely reving past 3750 but once fully warmed up symptom is their .
I have cleaned the throttle housing and air sensor , I have had it on a mates tech test which shows crank sensor but have no probs starting car hot or cold . Another one was was some ring I think reluctor ring which is a gearbox (manual) off job but his mechanic mate said it will not be this .
AA mate thinks it might be a temp sensor not one for the guage but one for the ecu if their is such a thing .
Any thoughts gratefully received before I have to resort to a garage .
Tamuchly
Kes 2.5 V6 2000 mdl
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Any EML on?
If not, double check the multiram valves are working...
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AA mate thinks it might be a temp sensor not one for the guage but one for the ecu if their is such a thing .
There is, mounted alongside the gauge on on coolant bridge.
Are you near me (Northants/Oxon/Bucks border)?
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No eml on . I am up in Solihull .
Multi ram valves they sound purposful :-? time to grab the Haynes . I have been living with this problem for nearly 4 months , I seem to be sort of be living with it as I run a motorbike which seems to empty my wallet . Through choice not cus its a bagoshite.
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Possibly no help, but when my coolant sensor went south I got terrible pinking (sounds like a load of marbles bouncing around the engine) when the car was under anything like a load - such as going uphill with a bit of wellie. The sensor sends the signals to the ECU and, much a like a choke in the old days, the ECU adjusts the fuel/air mixture. Relatively easy to change, but I would stress that it may not be the problem. As others have indicated, it could be the multi-ram valves.
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I have cleaned the throttle housing and air sensor , I have had it on a mates tech test which shows crank sensor but have no probs starting car hot or cold . Another one was was some ring I think reluctor ring which is a gearbox (manual) off job but his mechanic mate said it will not be this .
Hes right, it wont be this because there isn't one!
Start with the multiram as its easy enough to check (info on what is what is in the maintenance area including a section on vac pipe routing).
I am assuming the air cleaner is clean and the fuel filter was changed recently to.
Blocked exhaust is what I am thinking.......
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There isn't a rev limiter to go wrong is there?
Only a thought, not very mechanically gifted.
My CBR400 had one (jap import) which failed and it wouldn't rev past 8k. Symptoms were like hitting a brick wall, which is quite frightening when you’re over taking something and it kicks in!
Sorry if this suggestion is a load of [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]
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There isn't a rev limiter to go wrong is there?
Only a thought, not very mechanically gifted.
My CBR400 had one (jap import) which failed and it wouldn't rev past 8k. Symptoms were like hitting a brick wall, which is quite frightening when you’re over taking something and it kicks in!
Sorry if this suggestion is a load of [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]
As far as I know, there isn't a rev limiter as such. But, there is a safety device which will come in if you go too high up the range. I think, only think, Its about 6500 revs.
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There is a rev limiter like most modern cars, but on redline. There is another limiter if engine management detects a problem, this is around 4k (but EML will be on if this one is active).
I'd go along with Marks_DTM suggestions coz he's a clever geezer.... ;D
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What engine do you have? When the crank sensor on my old 4 pot failed it was caused by the cable ageing - was ok when engine cold but when warm - NFG.
Oh yeah - just read the 2.5 V6 bit at the bottom of your post
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What engine do you have? When the crank sensor on my old 4 pot failed it was caused by the cable ageing - was ok when engine cold but when warm - NFG.
Oh yeah - just read the 2.5 V6 bit at the bottom of your post
I would assume that fault could exist on either.
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A crank sensor is more likely to cause engine to stall, rather than rev limit...
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Hi all . The mega has fsh but not that I know if the fuel filter has been changed , air filter is ok .
I found some diags on the webb showing the secondstage mutiram at 3400rpm . I am also revising my brick wall down from 3750 to 3500 ish .
Would the multiram prob at 3400 be the same when cold as mine will rev freely till full op temp .
Is their a solenoid to check before the rams . If I need to replce do I need a 2nd mortgage or just 1 xmas pressie between both kids :) 4 multirams .
Going away for a week so if I don't reply its cus Ime having fun ;D
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could check if multiram is free when warm, in case its going sticky?
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My multirams were'nt working (vac pipes all wrong) but it never caused anything like this. Just a bit sluggish.
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Any EML on?
If not, double check the multiram valves are working...
I have a similar problem with mine, how do I check the valves are working?
Cheers
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Can you confirm that the EML comes on when you turn on ignition then goes out once engine started.
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Yes EML does come on when fired up .
Ok so I found the ram affair with the 2 stacks coming off . As I revved it untill cutting in and out the spring thing turned I tried pushing it with my finger and it would go no further . So do I strip tht 2 stacks off give a bit of lubrication to see if any better if not what is the next step .
Not gonna get it done till next weekend as off on hols 2moz till then . Again thanks for al the free advice :y
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Yes EML does come on when fired up .
Ok so I found the ram affair with the 2 stacks coming off . As I revved it untill cutting in and out the spring thing turned I tried pushing it with my finger and it would go no further . So do I strip tht 2 stacks off give a bit of lubrication to see if any better if not what is the next step .
Not gonna get it done till next weekend as off on hols 2moz till then . Again thanks for al the free advice :y
Do paperclip test then - ecu will tell you whats wrong :y
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hi had it on a mates tech thingy says in first post what was picked up :y
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hi had it on a mates tech thingy says in first post what was picked up :y
Can you remember code, ie 19 or 31. Was engine running at time?
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was done running , reset then run again I cor remember the code , I do'nt think mine will do the paperclip its a facelift :exclamation
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was done running , reset then run again I cor remember the code , I do'nt think mine will do the paperclip its a facelift :exclamation
If yours is 2.5 then it can do paperclip test.
19 = dead cert knackered crank sensor
31 if engine running = dead cert knackered crank sensor
31 if not running = indeterminate
(even Laidback66 agrees with that now ;))
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was done running , reset then run again I cor remember the code , I do'nt think mine will do the paperclip its a facelift :exclamation
If yours is 2.5 then it can do paperclip test.
19 = dead cert knackered crank sensor
31 if engine running = dead cert knackered crank sensor
31 if not running = indeterminate
(even Laidback66 agrees with that now ;))
I dont want to carry this thing on but...I got 31 with engine off, disappeared with engine running.
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Ok what I will have to do when I get back is see if my mate remembers the code tho I will still see if ram valves are sticky . Got no problem starting the car hot or cold .
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was done running , reset then run again I cor remember the code , I do'nt think mine will do the paperclip its a facelift :exclamation
If yours is 2.5 then it can do paperclip test.
19 = dead cert knackered crank sensor
31 if engine running = dead cert knackered crank sensor
31 if not running = indeterminate
(even Laidback66 agrees with that now ;))
I dont want to carry this thing on but...I got 31 with engine off, disappeared with engine running.
Yes, thats what I just said, isn't it?
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Ok what I will have to do when I get back is see if my mate remembers the code tho I will still see if ram valves are sticky . Got no problem starting the car hot or cold .
Or try the paperclip test as EML is coming on. Do paperclip test with engine running if possible :y
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My eml is not coming on :exclamation
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My eml is not coming on :exclamation
we're going round in circles here :o
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What about Marks suggestion, blocked exhaust? How could you check that one?
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Soz, saw post ealier about eml coming on, but that was a response to see if bulb worked. Sorry.
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I know its been on here before By other members I am hitting a brick wall at 3750 rpm .
Firstly this does not happen when car is cold only when full operating temp is reached 85-90 on the temp guage .
I have even had the car on the drive warming up and freely reving past 3750 but once fully warmed up symptom is their .
Kes 2.5 V6 2000 mdl
This bit of the original post rings a bell. My previous car (Merc C200) ran a treat when cold but when up to temp. it was almost undrivable due to sporadic weak mixture. It obviously was due to the engine being 'on choke' only the injection version, when it was running ok. I checked throttle body, lambda sensor, water & air temp. sensors, with no result. Decided in the end it must be corrupted information in the EMU and PXed it for the Omega before spending any more money on it.
Mind you, if the Merc. forum had been as good as this one I might have got it fixed ;D.
Eddie.
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I know its been on here before By other members I am hitting a brick wall at 3750 rpm .
Firstly this does not happen when car is cold only when full operating temp is reached 85-90 on the temp guage .
I have even had the car on the drive warming up and freely reving past 3750 but once fully warmed up symptom is their .
Kes 2.5 V6 2000 mdl
This bit of the original post rings a bell. My previous car (Merc C200) ran a treat when cold but when up to temp. it was almost undrivable due to sporadic weak mixture. It obviously was due to the engine being 'on choke' only the injection version, when it was running ok. I checked throttle body, lambda sensor, water & air temp. sensors, with no result. Decided in the end it must be corrupted information in the EMU and PXed it for the Omega before spending any more money on it.
Mind you, if the Merc. forum had been as good as this one I might have got it fixed ;D.
Eddie.
Theres a word of warning in there Kes, If you take it to Vx, they WILL change your ECU, and then start looking for the actual fault
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Thats what I am trying to avoid at all costs :-[
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Ok I checked my ramvalve today . Hope this is understandable .
I took off the ramstack to check the valve or what appears to be a flat piece of metal and checked it could be turned fully open by hand , it could with no tight spots . The black plastiv thingy attatched to a spring which turns the valve can be pushed by hand fully to the stop . When it is cutting in and out at 3400 the spring is fully open to the stop,sio I assume the valves would be fully open .
I noticed with my ears today but this could be normal , the black thing thats goes across the top of the inlet manifold with the pipes in sounds like its sucking air for england .
Asked my mate if he had this problem afore I had it off him he said no . The cambelt was changed just before I got it so dunno if their has been an assembly problem .
:-/ what to do next methinks at minimal cost . :)
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Hi all
Dunno if I have found something that might be or assisting the brickwall.
I was giving the enginebay a bit of tlc today and noticed a light film of creamy deposit on one side of the oil filler kneck and a tiny bit on cap . Also in a few places same film was on the upper inside (obviously) of the expansion tank . I do use coolant no deposits on dipstick or brown deposits in the coolant.
I only average 25 mile a day in two 12.5 journeys.
Also took the plugleads off one side (nearside) and everyone had oil on them dunno on the offside yet . I very much presume this is cam cover seals .
What a muppet I've just noticed their are 2 multirams :-[ oh well back to the bay then .
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The oil in plug wells will likely cause a misfire, but may have also damaged plug leads (they don't take kindly to being submerged in hot oil).
Mayo in filler cap is the 12m short journeys I reckon....
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Cheers for that .
So I've read somewhere that you can a cam cover kit for approx £60. Whats in it other than 4 gaskets as I can see you can get the gaskets off fleabay for about £9 a side.
I am not to sloppy with spanners is it a difficult job as I've never worked on a V6 before .
I assume the other multiram is at the rear of the inlet manifold and would have to remove the manifold to check said ram which would appear to be half the gasket changing job .
Lasltly where abouts would I find the crank breather .
May be some time afore I can do the job to find that thing we are all short the bloody time , so if I was to go to an independant dealer what sort of remortgage do you think I ma facing . :'(
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We have a maintenance guide on camcovers......the gaskets on ebay are dodgy although we have found a better source from here:
The Gasket Shop (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROCKER-GASKETS-CALIBRA-CAVALIER-OMEGA-VECTRA-SAAB-V6_W0QQitemZ110050439419QQihZ001QQcategoryZ10404QQcmdZViewItem)
V6 Cam Cover Gasket Changing (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152564281)
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Thanks for that :o that looks a well scary job .