Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Doughboy on 01 November 2006, 14:54:40
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Any ideas on removing an alloy wheel that appears to be seized on?
All nuts are out but the wheel is giving me problems, an hour spent on it so far. Just want to give them all a good clean :-/
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Give it a good kickin ........ honestly.
But be careful you don't damage yourself or more importantly .....the alloy.
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Yeah, sit down facing it and alternate kicking each side with your heel. Be ready to pull your legs out of the way when it goes. Stop as soon as it shifts at all. Don't have the car too high, and don't knock it off the jack. Putting the spare under the front seat (if front wheel) face-down is a decent safety measure.
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Been kickin the **** out of it for ages, feet are knackered now :( Was tempted to bring out the sledge hammer.
Bit stuffed if I get a flat as I aint got rescue cover. Might go to Kwick Fart and ask them to check my brake pads, give them the headache of getting the bloody thing off ;D
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Sharp hits are the trick, not force. You could try a large dead-blow hammer. Whatever you do, it sounds like you need to coat the hub centers when you put them back on.
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Whatever you do, it sounds like you need to coat the hub centers when you put them back on.
Had to do that on the rear as they were the same, came off after 5 mins of tool abuse though. Just going to wash the rest of the car and have another go at the front wheels tomorrow.
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I can't guarentee the safety point of this method but it's worked for me. After beating ten colours of the proverbial out of my brother-in-laws wheel to romove it after he ran out of brake pads, I put the wheel back on with the nuts on loose. I then drove the car forward a couple of [size=16]FOOT[/size] and jabbed the brakes on hard. The wheel gave up and released from the hub! :)
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yours is a fairly new facelift too :-/
Mine came off really easily when i did mine.... guess its the first time the wheels have been off or the last garage did not do a good job.
As Theo says get a large hammer or mallett, put it on an axel stand to make sure it does't get nocked off the jack. And give it some abuse!!!
Allthough Andy B's way sounds more fun! ;D
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will do both tomorrow, Andy B's could be fun(will let you know if I survive ;D).
Can only assume they have been off before as there is sticky pad marks for ballancing.
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will do both tomorrow, Andy B's could be fun(will let you know if I survive ;D).
Can only assume they have been off before as there is sticky pad marks for ballancing.
"I put the wheel back on with the nuts on loose"
Doh! I've just read properly what I'd written! Obviously I didn't put the wheel back on cos I couldn't get it off in the first place! I meant that I put the nuts back on but loose.
But I'm sure you all realised what I'd meant to say. :-[
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When I've had this problem I found loosening the nuts on the wheel, and with the car on an axle stand to allow rotation of the a series of blows with a rubber mallet to the back face of the rim of the wheel has done the trick. Rotate the wheel so you gave hit the rim at various points around its circumference, and give it a good clean before you put it back on.
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I've tried Andy B's method with good results before, shouldn't need to go more than a few feet in either direction before it loosens enough to come off.
Cheers Jim
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Putting the spare under the front seat (if front wheel) face-down is a decent safety measure.
You must have your seat up very high to get a spare wheel under it :y
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When I've had this problem I found loosening the nuts on the wheel, and with the car on an axle stand to allow rotation of the a series of blows with a rubber mallet to the back face of the rim of the wheel has done the trick. Rotate the wheel so you gave hit the rim at various points around its circumference, and give it a good clean before you put it back on.
I've always found this to be the safest way, if you only have a metal faced hammer as opposed to a dead blow hammer then hold a block of wood on the back side of the wheel first, then belt the S**T out of it keep rotating and it should just pop off :y
Rob.
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putting some coppaslip on the hub before refitting the wheel should stop it happening again, it's the corrosion between that and the alloy that makes it stick, the same reason why wheel bolts on alloys jam (abeit being done up too tight with an air gun doesn't help) - coppaslip on the shoulders (not thread) of the bolts before refitting sorts that one too ...
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Give the hub and the back of the wheel a good clean. If the wheel feels tight when byour putting it back on it probably isn't clean enough and you will have the same problem next time you take it off.
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I wanted to change the wheels on my Carlton but they were also corroded on. I used the system that andy used, loosened all the wheel nuts and drove down the road, wabbled the steering wheel and slammed on the brakes. All four wheels came unstuck within 500 mtrs. reversed back to garage and removed all wheels with no further problem. cleaned hubs with wire brush and coated with copperslip before re installing wheels. You dont want this problem if you have a puncture and want to change the tyre. Especially on a motorway.
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Right, got the copper slip stuff. Off work for a few days (Worked 13 days solid). Done all me washing and Ironing (yes i'm single).
Saturday is the day as long as the precipitation stays away.
Work to be done:
Alloys cleaned and lubed. Seat height motors lubed and fixed (hopefully). Front pipe to manifold gasket replacement. Full interior vallet. Tcut the bird sh1t out the paint work (seagulls and pigeons love the roof at my work). Removal of reversing camera and repair of the electrics it connected to.
What are the chances? ::)
Will probably spend most of the day kicking the alloys off ;D