Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Markie on 18 November 2006, 11:12:38
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Decided - todays the day - the prep work has all been done - with the exception of the exhaust manifolds - so im gonna have a go today at removing it.....or tomorrow
everything that needs to come off is off - located engine hoist hooks and very very slightly loosened at the engine mountings (when i say losened i mean just enough to know theres no sieze bolts lol)
So whats underneath ? 6 bolts or 8 ? i assume at back of the auto box is my next port of call.....is there anything sneaky or unusual i need to know ( anyone done this job)
:y
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Never done it so can't help, but good luck, and take care :y
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Never done it so can't help, but good luck, and take care :y
i`m getting problems everyway i turn
i thought i`d hav a problem taking manifold off without removing engine.
Can get exhaust off cos its corroded bolt end beyoned belief
and after investigating the back end of the `box none of the bolts are for moving at prop/driveshaft end.....
so now its off with the heads and see if the manifolds come out easier that way, still not sure about releasing it gearbox end
fun times !! :y
in fact dont really want to take heads off either ::)
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hmmmm im now thinking i will perhaps remove engine without transmission with it.
Any thoughts, i have always in the past left box and engine together when removing but it may be easier this way....
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Might be the best idea unless you've got a hernia truss the v6 box is rather heavy
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Usual method of engine removal is to remove gearbox first then lift engine out, problem with trying to do it as one lump is that the box is heavy and there is no way to attach the crane any further back than the heads so it tends to tip back as you lift it and makes it difficult to control. Also needs car to he high in the air.
Propshaft bolts will be tight and access isnt easy, once you get two undone then jack up one rear wheel and rotate wheel until remaining propshaft bolt is reachable.
Which exhaust bolts are corroded? If its the front pipe to mid section then you can cut these with hacksaw or angle grinder then drill out once the pipes are out of the car.
The front pipe to manifold should be nuts, not bolts. Use a hexagonal socket if you have one. (17 mm?)
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thanks matchless - i was coming to the conclusion that my usual method of engine and box at once was nt going to work....even by cutting away front slam panel on car...as you say theres no where further back than rear of block to get the hoist to connect to.
As for propshaft boy its uncomfortable down there......no space to get decent leverage. It is a standard 19mm isnt it :o
Front pipes to manifold are a problem so as suggested i will probably hacksaw them. :y
Thanks :)
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Don't know about Omegas, but often the easiest way to get engine and box out is down.
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Done that once with a Viva GT. At work over a Xmas holiday. It's easy if you have a pallet truck for the engine & box and a fork lift truck to lift the body off.
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Don't know about Omegas, but often the easiest way to get engine and box out is down.
Omega needs to come out top end - apparently :y
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agreed it was a 2.0, but when I did my engine swap I lifted it out, and left the box in place.
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agreed it was a 2.0, but when I did my engine swap I lifted it out, and left the box in place.
so working back end of engine front end of box underneath how many bolts am i looking for - i reckon i will go down this route..
thre was a great thread by jseaman on the other side - problem is all the pictures have gone.......and haynes as usual s crap for pictures. Truth is in half hearted at this today - i feel a sore throat coming on and its not yet made it past 0 degrees in Scotland yet.. :-/
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If you feel like that mate, then down tools and get inside with a cuppa or something stronger!
If I've learned one thing, don't work on cars when you're not in the mood for it, because I cut corners and am not so thorough.
If I'm in the mood, I do everything to perfection.
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If you feel like that mate, then down tools and get inside with a cuppa or something stronger!
If I've learned one thing, don't work on cars when you're not in the mood for it, because I cut corners and am not so thorough.
If I'm in the mood, I do everything to perfection.
:y advice taken
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Don't know about Omegas, but often the easiest way to get engine and box out is down.
Omega needs to come out top end - apparently :y
That's strange, the factory usually puts them in from below.
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agreed it was a 2.0, but when I did my engine swap I lifted it out, and left the box in place.
so working back end of engine front end of box underneath how many bolts am i looking for - i reckon i will go down this route..
thre was a great thread by jseaman on the other side - problem is all the pictures have gone.......and haynes as usual s crap for pictures. Truth is in half hearted at this today - i feel a sore throat coming on and its not yet made it past 0 degrees in Scotland yet.. :-/
They were a great set pictures - J Seaman's e-mail is still there - send him a private e-mail, you may get a reply and get the pictures move to here?
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agreed it was a 2.0, but when I did my engine swap I lifted it out, and left the box in place.
so working back end of engine front end of box underneath how many bolts am i looking for - i reckon i will go down this route..
thre was a great thread by jseaman on the other side - problem is all the pictures have gone.......and haynes as usual s crap for pictures. Truth is in half hearted at this today - i feel a sore throat coming on and its not yet made it past 0 degrees in Scotland yet.. :-/
They were a great set pictures - J Seaman's e-mail is still there - send him a private e-mail, you may get a reply and get the pictures move to here?
good call - will do just that !! :y
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Don't know about Omegas, but often the easiest way to get engine and box out is down.
Omega needs to come out top end - apparently :y
That's strange, the factory usually puts them in from below.
The factory will make up a sub-assembly of engine, gearbox, exhaust down pipes and front subframe complete with suspension then either lower the body down onto it or lift the whole lot up from a second assembly track under the main track.
You could do this in a well equipped workshop but would need some serious lifting gear and would require a suspension alignment afterwards.
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so working back end of engine front end of box underneath how many bolts am i looking for - i reckon i will go down this route..
You sure you cant undo ( or shear off) the manifold to downdipe bolts with hex socket?
Anyway brief gearbox out how-to:
Unbolt exhaust down pipes from mid-section
Unbolt downpipes from manifold and remove
Unbolt propshaft fron gearbox (19 mm iirc and torx on the other end on some. access tight, may need openended to stop bolt turning)
Propshaft pushes back on its centre joint enough to clear gearbox spigot...tie up out of the way.
Disconnect wiring and unclip from box. Disconnect fluid lines to gearbox cooler in rad.
Disconnect selector mechanism...sorry dont know the details
Unbolt torque convertor from drive plate, turn engine on crank pulley to access all bolts.
Unbolt bell housing from engine 4 x 13mm and several 19 mm, just feel your way around for them, some face forward, some back.
Support gearbox on trolley jack, about 1/3 distance from back. Unbolt gearbox crossmember from floor (Must use locktite when putting this back)
Lower box slightly then separate from engine. may need a bit of persuasion if stuck on dowels.
Im sure Mr McBurger or Laidback could add some detail to this, they change auto boxes for fun.