Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Erthe on 07 January 2007, 10:41:02
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Firstly, Hi....read through the site and love the friendly nature and helpfull attitude shown by you guys. A lot of the info here has helped / will help me a lot...thx :)
I do have a problem with my 1998 2.0 16v Auto........I have a miss that I just cant clear...firing well enough but missing on 1 (can't remember which one at the moment...doh!).
Plugs and leads all seem fine
Any suggestions as to where a Noob like me should start in trying to resolve this? without taking her into my local dealer and paying out my next months wages hehe.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
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HI mate, I would possibly suspect the DIS pack that the leads plug in to. What driving conditions does it miss under? Does it miss under load?
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Where are you from? I've got a spare 2.0 DIS sat at home, you'd be welcome to swap it out and see if it cures it.
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Hi,
The miss is there all the time :(
I appreciate the offer of the DIS...but actually have my old car sat there waiting to be canibalised for spares if needed.
Worth trying to change over the DIS then?
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If you've got a spare DIS to try, that would be my next port of call if it's not firing on one plug, and you're sure leads and plugs are fine.
Try that, and post up the result....
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Thx,
For once the sun is shining so I will try it today and post results :)
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well I got a mate down to give me a hand....trouble is that with me knowing very little, we tried various checks etc but never actually tackled the DIS (even though there are some great guides to this on the forum)
He suggests that it is a dodgy valve...personally I would rather try the DIS first...(he is a mechanic but I dont know if I can trust his knowledge as far as I can throw him...not when it comes to my Omega ;) )
Could it be a valve? (car has done 113k) or should I just try the DIS first rather than taking the head off?
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well I got a mate down to give me a hand....trouble is that with me knowing very little, we tried various checks etc but never actually tackled the DIS (even though there are some great guides to this on the forum)
He suggests that it is a dodgy valve...personally I would rather try the DIS first...(he is a mechanic but I dont know if I can trust his knowledge as far as I can throw him...not when it comes to my Omega ;) )
Could it be a valve? (car has done 113k) or should I just try the DIS first rather than taking the head off?
A compression test would confirm if its valve. If he is a mechanic, he should have a compression tester...
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well I got a mate down to give me a hand....trouble is that with me knowing very little, we tried various checks etc but never actually tackled the DIS (even though there are some great guides to this on the forum)
He suggests that it is a dodgy valve...personally I would rather try the DIS first...(he is a mechanic but I dont know if I can trust his knowledge as far as I can throw him...not when it comes to my Omega ;) )
Could it be a valve? (car has done 113k) or should I just try the DIS first rather than taking the head off?
A compression test would confirm if its valve. If he is a mechanic, he should have a compression tester...
There's an even easier way. Get a timing light, and with the engine running, connect it to each HT lead in turn. If the light fails to flash on one of the leads.. then that lead has got no spark going to it's plug. If a plug is not firing, you should also be able to tell by the colour of the plug.
The DIS is a peice of cake, 4 torx bolts holding it on to a plate at the back of the head, and one connector.. ten min job.
As mentioned though, a compression test would also help with the diagnosis from this point, if it's not an ignition problem..
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Well that's the valve replaced...at last hehe
Just need to try the paperclip method to find what fault I have now :(
Thx for the suggestions guys, much appreciated ;D
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Ok guys...time to yell "HELP!!!!" again :(
I did the paperclip test on my Omega today......(thx to the link on the site :) )
First problem is that (correct me if I am wrong please) it is a 1998 2.0 16v auto and therefore it is an Omega B 2.01 16V with Engine code X20XEV
Looking through the listing I should have a Siemens Simtec 56.0/56.1???
I should find a 10 pin connector? Well I look under my steering wheel and find a 16 pin...yes I was confused. Ok, so I re read everything again and decide that maybe it could be a Simtec 56.5 (P Codes) and that maybe it was my error.
I short pins 2 and 4 and Diagnostics seem to work and the light flashes as described. I read the code and what do you know??? all it comes up with is a (0340) = Camshaft sensor.
Would I be right in presuming that I did the right check? and this is the code and problem?
I tried to clear the code, as per off and on 30 times allowing for setup etc each time but no joy.....maybe the sensor is knackered? Trouble is that I took this sensor off my other omega (donor) which I knew was working before I scrapped it. Are they easily damaged? or am I just unlucky?
Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.
Thx :)
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That confirms a knackered cam sensor. Whether or not that is the cause of your miss I do not know...
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bear in mind that a faulty DIS pack will NOT create a fault code. Crank or cam sensor? As a crank sensor error is normally reported if testing without the engine running ... try again with the engine running?
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bear in mind that a faulty DIS pack will NOT create a fault code. Crank or cam sensor? As a crank sensor error is normally reported if testing without the engine running ... try again with the engine running?
4 pot - cannot do paperclip test with engine running
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Ok guys...time to yell "HELP!!!!" again :(
I did the paperclip test on my Omega today......(thx to the link on the site :) )
First problem is that (correct me if I am wrong please) it is a 1998 2.0 16v auto and therefore it is an Omega B 2.01 16V with Engine code X20XEV
Looking through the listing I should have a Siemens Simtec 56.0/56.1???
I should find a 10 pin connector? Well I look under my steering wheel and find a 16 pin...yes I was confused. Ok, so I re read everything again and decide that maybe it could be a Simtec 56.5 (P Codes) and that maybe it was my error.
I short pins 2 and 4 and Diagnostics seem to work and the light flashes as described. I read the code and what do you know??? all it comes up with is a (0340) = Camshaft sensor.
Would I be right in presuming that I did the right check? and this is the code and problem?
I tried to clear the code, as per off and on 30 times allowing for setup etc each time but no joy.....maybe the sensor is knackered? Trouble is that I took this sensor off my other omega (donor) which I knew was working before I scrapped it. Are they easily damaged? or am I just unlucky?
Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.
Thx :)
Sounds to me like the test worked ok
Regards the borrowing off your donor chances are its an issue with the connector and hence why vx supply not only the sensor but also part of the loom with connector to be crimped in.
When my sensor went it put my car into limp mode and so accelleration was like pushing the car up a steep hill (Very hard going).
Hope this makes sense.
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Thx Nixoro, it does make sense :)
TBH my donor car is identical (my old Omega) except for bring about 6 months older. So I was hoping to get away with getting the newer one sorted at a reasonable cost. That was the plan...hehe
My problem lies in the fact that when it comes to cars I am a complete Noob! so please excuse any further stupid questions that I may post....but I will look to see if there is a previous post first ofc.
Ok, so now I have another question.....It has come up with the error code and I have identified it as the Cam sensor. If I now replace with a new one, will the logged fault still restrict the engine to limp mode until I get it to a garage and get it cleared? or will it clear the fault but log it as a past error?
The reason I ask is that I live about 20 miles from the nearest place that has a diagnostic set and currently have no tax on the car.
If anyone can advise me on this I would be most greatfull :)
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I think it should clear after 20 successful starts, others with more knowledge will confirm.
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Ok, so if I were to fit a new or donor Cam sensor..... this would mean that I would still have the fault light on until it cleared after 20 sucessful starts etc...but would the "limp" mode (restricted revs) still kick in until it cleared? or would it mean that the light would stay on and it would run ok?
I only ask so that I would know if I sucessfully changed the sensor.
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Ok, so if I were to fit a new or donor Cam sensor..... this would mean that I would still have the fault light on until it cleared after 20 sucessful starts etc...but would the "limp" mode (restricted revs) still kick in until it cleared? or would it mean that the light would stay on and it would run ok?
I only ask so that I would know if I sucessfully changed the sensor.
As soon as Cam sensor is fixed, EML will go out. The code will remain in ECU (and hence flashable out via paperclip for a set number of starts (and longer for code readers)) - but if EML stays out, its fixed :)
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Thx, that makes things clear :)