Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Markie on 19 January 2007, 11:16:36
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Okay i am still no further forward removing oil pipes at filter. Essentialy as i dont have correct tools - searched locally and really cant get whats required!!
So simple question should i buy flared nut spanners
or crows foot wrench set to use with a socket?
The real issues in that 2,6 engine ( in a vectra) is lack of space so i am thinking the wrench set may be better.... :-/
such as this ...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-AK598-Crows-Foot-Wrench-Set-10pc-Metric_W0QQitemZ160070450653QQihZ006QQcategoryZ30917QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Or maybe....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6-PC-6MM-to-24MM-METRIC-FLARE-NUT-SPANNER-SET-RACK_W0QQitemZ290070717721QQihZ019QQcategoryZ30917QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Crows foot give best access....and the sealey set is a good one.....19mm is the required size.
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Go for the crowsfoots.
The spanner 'ends' are in line with the shaft so if the nut doesnt move by a whole flat before the spanner hits something then you cant turn the spanner over to get another bite as you do with ordinary spanners.
DONT try using an ordinary open-ended spanner, it will crush the tube nuts then you are really stuck.
If you havnt already done so...get some penetrating fluid between nut and pipe, the nuts can rust onto the pipe.
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thanks guys - nope i havent used a normal spanner - quickly worked out last day i had time to do this ( sunday) that i needed tools.
Just bought a set of the sealey ones :y
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You probably wont get the pipes out, there is a clip attached to one of the bellhousing bolts. Just undo the nuts and pull the pipe ends out of the block then you should have enough movement to get to the cooler nuts.
If we didnt say before, clean up the block face with emery or scotchbrite, then degrease block and cover using thinners before applying grey sealant
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Lots of cleaning today - if it doesnt go when im done at least its pretty :y Loads of scouring of surfaces and lots of carb cleaner used too.
Seriously though - rad hoses all removed, coolant tank etc as well.
Just finished removal of the thermostat waterway, housing and thermostat as well.
Masses of gunk on thermostat and underneath where it sits :-/ kind of concerns me a bit.
Are we still on for oil cooler failure...?
Or as ive always thought, small chance of hgf?
It seems somewhere in the whole cause and effect scenario something has blown bottom radiator hose off - jubilee clip and all and thrown thick dirty wads of mayo everywhere.
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my money is still on oil cooler....
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my money is still on oil cooler....
we will see very soon as the relevent tools to finally get it out will be here Tuesday.
So seriously mayo`d thermostat is ok ? :y
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my money is still on oil cooler....
we will see very soon as the relevent tools to finally get it out will be here Tuesday.
So seriously mayo`d thermostat is ok ? :y
Change the stat ;)
The whole coolant system will be really mayo'd with oil cooler failure...
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my money is still on oil cooler....
we will see very soon as the relevent tools to finally get it out will be here Tuesday.
So seriously mayo`d thermostat is ok ? :y
Change the stat ;)
The whole coolant system will be really mayo'd with oil cooler failure...
Yup new stat already ordered... :y
And when i say mayo i mean Really Mayo`d - view where the removed 'stat should be
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n54/markiec23/DSCF3025.jpg)
And `scuse the strange focus on this pic of the 'stat and housing
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n54/markiec23/DSCF3029.jpg)
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Yup, looks like oil cooler - I take it that it was driven around a bit with the failed cooler...
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With mayo like that it's been driven a while with a faulty oil cooler. I'd be looking at replacing ALL of the coolant hoses and the HBV valve. They won't last you very long now, the oil damages them. You've got until Tuesday to flush the block, radiator and heater matrix and that might just be long enough.
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With mayo like that it's been driven a while with a faulty oil cooler. I'd be looking at replacing ALL of the coolant hoses and the HBV valve. They won't last you very long now, the oil damages them. You've got until Tuesday to flush the block, radiator and heater matrix and that might just be long enough.
Forget Tuesday ;D ive had the car two months like that and cant find the time to fix it!
I bought it with "problems"
I already have new radiator, oil cooler, thermostat on way, new expansion tank, new hoses
Never thought about heater matrix though :-/
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Never thought about heater matrix though :-/
Blame global warming making it easy to forget about heating ;D
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There is a good chance the water pump rubber seal will fail as well....
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There is a good chance the water pump rubber seal will fail as well....
Its kind of on my plan B to do list :-/
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Markiec, good tip i have been told for afterwards is some bleach in the header tank to go around with the coolant.
Obviously don't run it for long, and flush it very well afterwards. But the bleach breaks the oil up and with a few flushes of pure water comes out a treat.
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I wouldn't use bleach....alkaline products have a habit of attacking alloy, use a proper de-greaser.
If it was me, I would have the timing cover off so I could get the water pump out, then you can fill the valley section up with de-greaser mix and leave it for a while....pull the water pump and it drains the block again ready for flushing.....
Putting a hose pipe into the coolant pipe that runs arond 1/3/5 head with no pump fitted is a very effective way of flushing the block section....
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I wouldn't use bleach....alkaline products have a habit of attacking alloy, use a proper de-greaser.
If it was me, I would have the timing cover off so I could get the water pump out, then you can fill the valley section up with de-greaser mix and leave it for a while....pull the water pump and it drains the block again ready for flushing.....
Putting a hose pipe into the coolant pipe that runs arond 1/3/5 head with no pump fitted is a very effective way of flushing the block section....
Top tip Mark :y
Thanks :)