Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: ohmegod on 21 January 2007, 15:22:15
-
What other 5 stud wheel will fit the vauxhall omega? i parked next to a volvo today and his wheels would have looked good on mine............My drivers side wheel is buckled so they need changing,im thinking of 16" steels (a bit stronger)with 225/45/16 tyres,lower it with some g-max springs and get the tracking and wheel allined.
-
unfortunately nice as they are to look at, it is well documented on here that the irmscher rims fitted to pre-facelift MV6's are in fact made of toffee - and buckle if they even see a pot hole, let alone come into contact with one!
Facelift elite or MV6 alloys are much better (and IIRC are actually cheaper to buy !!!), plus they take the same size tyres (235/45 R17's)
there's a set on fleabay here (http://tinyurl.com/34n2np) (albeit they are for a facelift elite not MV6 - but the design is very similar)
-
In defense of Irmscher alloys, my 17" twinspokes have been marvellous :y
The tyres I've got - Nankang NS1 sports - have a bit of a rim protector moulding, but in all fairness I have clouted a few potholes & not suffered any damage ::) yet :-/
I believe many Saab wheels fit Omega hubs, IIRC they're 110mm PCD, just check the offset, again IIRC Omegas are 35/37mm, I'm not 100% on that though.
Good luck
-
MV6 alloys are ET33 (offset), vectra's and Saab's tend to be around ET40, further inboard than the Omega.
-
In defense of Irmscher alloys, my 17" twinspokes have been marvellous :y
The tyres I've got - Nankang NS1 sports - have a bit of a rim protector moulding, but in all fairness I have clouted a few potholes & not suffered any damage ::) yet :-/
I believe many Saab wheels fit Omega hubs, IIRC they're 110mm PCD, just check the offset, again IIRC Omegas are 35/37mm, I'm not 100% on that though.
Good luck
If they are the prefacelift MV6 Irmscher alloys, then you have been lucky. They are very soft...
-
In defense of Irmscher alloys, my 17" twinspokes have been marvellous :y
The tyres I've got - Nankang NS1 sports - have a bit of a rim protector moulding, but in all fairness I have clouted a few potholes & not suffered any damage ::) yet :-/
I believe many Saab wheels fit Omega hubs, IIRC they're 110mm PCD, just check the offset, again IIRC Omegas are 35/37mm, I'm not 100% on that though.
Good luck
If they are the prefacelift MV6 Irmscher alloys, then you have been lucky. They are very soft...
Not p/f - but genuine Irmscher replacements bought from Germany, not black around the centres.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/kjon51/3e_1.jpg)
-
If you lower the car, you'll HAVE to fit a camber adjusting kit. Otherwise you'll be trashing new tyres in less than 1000 miles. Regal Auto do a kit for about £200 (I think that's what I paid, but it was about 3 years ago !).
You'll then need to have the steering geometry adusted.
The four wheel alignment that you get at "Kwik Fleece" etc is not what you need if lowering a car. You'll need to contact your nearest Performance Car/Rally preparation centre.
Also if you're gonna run a 45 profile you'll need 17" rims otherwise your rolling radius is gonna be wrong. You should be running 15" already so 16" are neither here nor there.
You could fit 19" with no arch modifications on the Omega... but the cost of the rubber would be as much as for the rims and it's just not practical on u.k roads.
I'm running 235/45-17 with 40mm lowered springs and new (but std) Monroe Shox. I reckon 30mm lowered would be better, as I've had to junk the under engine splash guard (Damn speed humps !!).
Mind you, just a new set of 17" rims with the 45 profile rubber will make a big difference as there is significantly less flex in the tyre wall than the standard "mini bus" tyres.
-
Anywhere of doing a 'full geometry' check should be able to reset camber etc, but let them know you have lowered it (some places may struggle to get the kit on if lowered excessively)
-
Yes, camber is adjustable....I have done two in the last week alone!
Rear camber is not hugely adjustable but, given that the spring is forward of the wheel on the trailing arm its not likely to affect camber greatly any way...
As a word of warning, beware of wheels which result in a much larger rolling diameter with tyres fitted....there is not that much room between the tyre and bottom spring cup on the front strutt.....
-
If you lower the car, you'll HAVE to fit a camber adjusting kit. Otherwise you'll be trashing new tyres in less than 1000 miles. Regal Auto do a kit for about £200 (I think that's what I paid, but it was about 3 years ago !).
You'll then need to have the steering geometry adusted.
The four wheel alignment that you get at "Kwik Fleece" etc is not what you need if lowering a car. You'll need to contact your nearest Performance Car/Rally preparation centre.
Also if you're gonna run a 45 profile you'll need 17" rims otherwise your rolling radius is gonna be wrong. You should be running 15" already so 16" are neither here nor there.
You could fit 19" with no arch modifications on the Omega... but the cost of the rubber would be as much as for the rims and it's just not practical on u.k roads.
I'm running 235/45-17 with 40mm lowered springs and new (but std) Monroe Shox. I reckon 30mm lowered would be better, as I've had to junk the under engine splash guard (Damn speed humps !!).
Mind you, just a new set of 17" rims with the 45 profile rubber will make a big difference as there is significantly less flex in the tyre wall than the standard "mini bus" tyres.
Jesus................i think ill leave it alone and just buy a air freshner..
-
How d'ya adjust the camber on an Omega with no camber kit ?
If that's possible then I wasted 200+ beer tokens. I have a '95 2.5td and there was no camber adjustment on that...well none that I could find.
The lower holes on the front legs were drilled and a cam bolt fitted with a steel "fork" set up, and the rear consisted of adjustable poly bushes.
-
How d'ya adjust the camber on an Omega with no camber kit ?
If that's possible then I wasted 200+ beer tokens. I have a '95 2.5td and there was no camber adjustment on that...well none that I could find.
The lower holes on the front legs were drilled and a cam bolt fitted with a steel "fork" set up, and the rear consisted of adjustable poly bushes.
Front is adjustable by 2 bolts at bottom of strut. Rear not directly adjustable, but as Mark says, due to design, lowering rear will have little affect anyway...
-
Also if you're gonna run a 45 profile you'll need 17" rims otherwise your rolling radius is gonna be wrong. You should be running 15" already so 16" are neither here nor there.
...
Mind you, just a new set of 17" rims with the 45 profile rubber will make a big difference as there is significantly less flex in the tyre wall than the standard "mini bus" tyres.
I don't think it'll make as much of a difference as you think; MV6 runs 17" wheels with 235/45 tyres as standard :D
-
Also if you're gonna run a 45 profile you'll need 17" rims otherwise your rolling radius is gonna be wrong. You should be running 15" already so 16" are neither here nor there.
...
Mind you, just a new set of 17" rims with the 45 profile rubber will make a big difference as there is significantly less flex in the tyre wall than the standard "mini bus" tyres.
I don't think it'll make as much of a difference as you think; MV6 runs 17" wheels with 235/45 tyres as standard :D
As do facelift Elites...
-
If you lower the car, you'll HAVE to fit a camber adjusting kit. Otherwise you'll be trashing new tyres in less than 1000 miles. Regal Auto do a kit for about £200 (I think that's what I paid, but it was about 3 years ago !).
You'll then need to have the steering geometry adusted.
The four wheel alignment that you get at "Kwik Fleece" etc is not what you need if lowering a car. You'll need to contact your nearest Performance Car/Rally preparation centre.
Also if you're gonna run a 45 profile you'll need 17" rims otherwise your rolling radius is gonna be wrong. You should be running 15" already so 16" are neither here nor there.
You could fit 19" with no arch modifications on the Omega... but the cost of the rubber would be as much as for the rims and it's just not practical on u.k roads.
I'm running 235/45-17 with 40mm lowered springs and new (but std) Monroe Shox. I reckon 30mm lowered would be better, as I've had to junk the under engine splash guard (Damn speed humps !!).
Mind you, just a new set of 17" rims with the 45 profile rubber will make a big difference as there is significantly less flex in the tyre wall than the standard "mini bus" tyres.
Jesus................i think ill leave it alone and just buy a air freshner..
LOL ;D
-
Yes that's it, but I had to drill out lower bolt hole to accept a cammed bolt, as the was no pivotal adjustment. How much were the cars you did this week lowered by ?
I still have the original tyres if you want to see the wear. Totally trashed on the inside edge. Done about 15k with an nice even wear pattern until I lowered the car. Within 1k they were down to the wire, front and rear, like the worst case of bad tracking you've ever seen. (Yes I know, poor on my part. Just didn't expect that amount of wear so quickly..ah well, ya live 'n' learn !!).
When I was booking the car in to have the camber adjusted I had to describe the kit I had fitted as they were adamant there was no camber adjustment as the standard settings for the Omega B was on the computer program for the geometric laser system they used, with a note advising CAMBER AND CASTOR NOT ADJUSTABLE...TRACKING ONLY.
There's a pic of the rear bush kit at:
http://www.regal-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Cavalier_Suspension.html
As for the MV6 running 235/45-17. You're right, that's what I used to ensure the radius was correct. A change in rolling radius would affect gear ratios and the speedo would not be accurate but that's about it. Camber adjustment was as a result of lowering the car.
You could fitted 18" rims with 245/35's and the rolling radius would be the same as the 15" rims with 205/65's as per the standard 2.5td.
(One day I'll get my post/replies down to a few lines !!!)