Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Markie on 03 February 2007, 11:14:37
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If i could find my original thread i would have added to it....
still cant remove oil cooler as we still cant remove the oil pipe nuts at oil filter end.
Reason being the lack of access and being unable to remove oil filter cannister.
We have tried EVERYTHING to get it off. Including socket on end with huge breaker bar and oil filter wrench on the houseing and turning them opposite ways,
Does anyone have an idea of how much the cannister is that houses the oil filter ( in y26se engine)
my only options are to give up on this ...
bend the cooler pipes to do it....
hack/drill/cut the bloody cannister and renew/replace it.
Its clearly been overtightened by some ars3hole garage with air tools........ >:(
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When i did mine Markie, ( and i know i'm probably gonna get shot for saying this ) I did it without removing the pipes, i know its not the right way, and i know you have to be careful, but it was actually fairly easy, hardest bit was getting the banjo bolt back in on the short pipe as you have to bend it slightly and it was hard to line it back up again, you could do with three hands at this point. What Mark , Matchless etc etc say is right, but its not as if you haven't tried ;)
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i know...i've thought bout returning to that side of things but the way things are going i'd probably end up fractring a pipe...
Also - this darn cannister has got to come off....otherwise i cant do an oil filter change
Oh and ive started cutting it.... :-/ ;D
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can anyone confirm if the main body of the canister is bolted or simply screwed to the engine block and if its clock or anticlockwise to remove... :y
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bugger me that must be on tight!!
Hummm don't know what to suggest, the oil cooler can be removed if you bend the pipes but they will be bastard to put back.
But as you say you need to do an oil & filter change, plus if you started cutting it. Then its going to leak!!
I take it you have sprayed several litres of WD40 on it?
What about some of that Rust Magic stuff or whatever its called, MarkDTM will give you the propper name. That stuff does wonders...
An idea for getting filter off.... if the above does not work.
Get a drill and drill a hole though the filter.... then get a rod or pole, insert and turn. Sprinkle some words of black and blue that should shift the bugger!!
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The cap on the end is screwed on, and should be 15nm, once the cap is off and the filter is out, there is a bolt that screws into the engine block and is tightened to 40nm IIRC. When I changed my oil filter the cap would not come off, instead the whole housing came away from the block, anti-clockwise. I was lucky and managed to get the whole unit back on and tightened up with a filter wrench. A new filter housing is scarily expensive from VX I was quoted around....wait for it..... £170 :o :o :o. I ordered an adapter for £5 ish, I plan to change it to a normal disposable cartridge type oil filter.
Hope that helps
Roland
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The part number for the adaptor is 90412159. To remove the filter housing I would suggest a filter wrench and a lot of steady pressure, anti-clockwise (lefty for loosey and righty for tighty) once off you need to get the cap off. One suggestion I have come across is to secure the canister tightly (in a vice would do) then use an impact socket on the cap nut, again anti-clockwise.
hope this helps
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thanks Tunnie / Roland
Sh1t ...the price of that housing :o :o :o oooops
15nm - that thing was (somehow) replaced with air tool tightness! probably a high street garage)
Ok ive already drilled a hole and put a strong screwdriver through....broke the screwdriver so i am going to do it tomorrow with an extension bar through it....me and my dad have spent a week on this and he as NEVER seen anything like this....this was also after wrecking two oil filter wrenches trying to counter load and snap the seal.
Roland....ive now got the cap off and is the bolt dead centre inside ? do you know the size from memory?
problem with this car/engine is its sitting different from the omega version and the filter is half way down at the front of the block.... and from top down you cant access it due to exhaust manifold hiding it.....front access prohibited by radiators ( about 6 inches of free space) and underneath access is through a minefield of sensors ( lambda etc etc)
And all this to get access to oil pipes to remove oil cooler - i realy relly want to folllow Mark DTMs advice and NOT bend them :y
thanks again!!
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The cap on the end is screwed on, and should be 15nm, once the cap is off and the filter is out, there is a bolt that screws into the engine block and is tightened to 40nm IIRC. When I changed my oil filter the cap would not come off, instead the whole housing came away from the block, anti-clockwise. I was lucky and managed to get the whole unit back on and tightened up with a filter wrench. A new filter housing is scarily expensive from VX I was quoted around....wait for it..... £170 :o :o :o. I ordered an adapter for £5 ish, I plan to change it to a normal disposable cartridge type oil filter.
Hope that helps
Roland
Roland this kit - will it be asimple as that to replace and is it a vauxhall part?
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i can say from experience the oil cooler pipes are a bastard if bent!
There is no point bending them anyway if the oil filter is still buggered.....
No decent V6's at my local scrappy to get you a replacement housing :(
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The adaptor is a standard VX part, it's a short bit of tube treaded at both ends. One end goes into the block, some thread-lock might be useful. Your new disposable filter screws onto the other end.
Have checked for a description of "bolt" and there are two possibilities one is described as a scew and the other as a torx M8 .As far as I know it is central
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i can say from experience the oil cooler pipes are a bastard if bent!
There is no point bending them anyway if the oil filter is still buggered.....
No decent V6's at my local scrappy to get you a replacement housing :(
thanks Tunnie.....keep looking when you pass :) :y beer tokens galore as a reward!!!!
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The adaptor is a standard VX part, it's a short bit of tube treaded at both ends. One end goes into the block, some thread-lock might be useful. Your new disposable filter screws onto the other end.
Have checked for a description of "bolt" and there are two possibilities one is described as a scew and the other as a torx M8 .As far as I know it is central
Thanks Roland L !
It s so hard to get to and see i am using an extendable mirror and torch to see inside it from under the car....
i presume therefor the bit sticking out the middle of the current filter must also come out of the sump....so the adaptor can go in at one end and stick out at the other so i can screw on the filter??
if every you find the part of that adaptor i`d be most grateful :) :y
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Its either a big torx (rare) or a 27mm (from memory...)
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If i could find my original thread i would have added to it....
still cant remove oil cooler as we still cant remove the oil pipe nuts at oil filter end.
Reason being the lack of access and being unable to remove oil filter cannister.
We have tried EVERYTHING to get it off. Including socket on end with huge breaker bar and oil filter wrench on the houseing and turning them opposite ways,
Does anyone have an idea of how much the cannister is that houses the oil filter ( in y26se engine)
my only options are to give up on this ...
bend the cooler pipes to do it....
hack/drill/cut the bloody cannister and renew/replace it.
Its clearly been overtightened by some ars3hole garage with air tools........ >:(
I had the same problem when i did mine, i ended up drilling many hole son the housing to take the cap off and then remove the rest of the filter housing. Then i got a brand new housing from the stealers which apparently is a newer design and in my opinion much better flowing. Get your powerdrill and start drilling.
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If i could find my original thread i would have added to it....
still cant remove oil cooler as we still cant remove the oil pipe nuts at oil filter end.
Reason being the lack of access and being unable to remove oil filter cannister.
We have tried EVERYTHING to get it off. Including socket on end with huge breaker bar and oil filter wrench on the houseing and turning them opposite ways,
Does anyone have an idea of how much the cannister is that houses the oil filter ( in y26se engine)
my only options are to give up on this ...
bend the cooler pipes to do it....
hack/drill/cut the bloody cannister and renew/replace it.
Its clearly been overtightened by some ars3hole garage with air tools........ >:(
I had the same problem when i did mine, i ended up drilling many hole son the housing to take the cap off and then remove the rest of the filter housing. Then i got a brand new housing from the stealers which apparently is a newer design and in my opinion much better flowing. Get your powerdrill and start drilling.
socan i drill drill drill all the way down the main body right to where it meets the block ?
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If i could find my original thread i would have added to it....
still cant remove oil cooler as we still cant remove the oil pipe nuts at oil filter end.
Reason being the lack of access and being unable to remove oil filter cannister.
We have tried EVERYTHING to get it off. Including socket on end with huge breaker bar and oil filter wrench on the houseing and turning them opposite ways,
Does anyone have an idea of how much the cannister is that houses the oil filter ( in y26se engine)
my only options are to give up on this ...
bend the cooler pipes to do it....
hack/drill/cut the bloody cannister and renew/replace it.
Its clearly been overtightened by some ars3hole garage with air tools........ >:(
I had the same problem when i did mine, i ended up drilling many hole son the housing to take the cap off and then remove the rest of the filter housing. Then i got a brand new housing from the stealers which apparently is a newer design and in my opinion much better flowing. Get your powerdrill and start drilling.
socan i drill drill drill all the way down the main body right to where it meets the block ?
No you need to drill axially to the filter housing. Little holes on the filter housing cap would help you break it off later with a long screwdriver, then you can remove the filter element and use a 27 mm socket with extension to remove the bolt that hold it in place and job is done. you can have enough space to undo the oil lines. it will help you to either cut a spanner in half for that or cut a slot on a ring spanner as access is still a bit tricky.
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Excellent!!
"lid" is already of filter and filter removed. Also got the relevent tools to remove oil lines at filter end.
Now imagine this had only been an oil change.
Ive spent more time trying to remove an oil filter here than stripping the thing down to oil cooler/ removing thermostat and cleaning all the breathers :o :o
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I'm glad mine has an older style spin on filter....
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I'm glad mine has an older style spin on filter....
I am going to do what Roland suggested earlier in the thread and replace via adaptor with "normal" filter :-/
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tea break.....heres where i am currently at....
Lid of filter off and filter out and picture taken up and into the filter...what you see in the picture far right is shrapnel from cutting into filter.
Looking at it i am concerned about where/ how the 27mm will fit on and grip......
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n54/markiec23/PICT1017.jpg)
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Its one of the rare hex drive ones....you can see the hex in the centre....
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Its one of the rare hex drive ones....you can see the hex in the centre....
yup!! as i dont have a 27mm socket but do have an excellent hex set ive tried the t55 and ....
Bingo ! its off with lots of swearing :y
Problem now is - i broke my 1/2" to 3/8" reducer so i am currently limited to using my shorter wrench with the crows foot 19mm to get to the pipe.....and its not giving me enough leverage. Got a new converter on order to use with the longer wrench and give me the appropriate leverage
So untill next bleeding weekend....in the office 12 hours a day next week >:(
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Its off, thats a result :y
Getting cold and dark now, time to go inside anyway..
And if that doesn't make you feel better, just done oil and coolant change on Rover, took about 30mins ;)
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Its off, thats a result :y
Getting cold and dark now, time to go inside anyway..
And if that doesn't make you feel better, just done oil and coolant change on Rover, took about 30mins ;)
How is the Rover now?
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Its off, thats a result :y
Getting cold and dark now, time to go inside anyway..
And if that doesn't make you feel better, just done oil and coolant change on Rover, took about 30mins ;)
How is the Rover now?
Seems to be good :)