Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Gaffers on 24 February 2007, 12:19:32
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I have seen some 3.0 cams for sale, but they are just the inlet cams. Will I need all 4 cams for the best performance improvement or will these 2 suffice??
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I'm NOT totally in the know on this one, however I've read somewhere that to gain, to change all 4, but it's the exhaust valves which do the work with high lift...
I'm sure I'll be corrected if wrong..
Dave C
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I would say it's got to be all 4. Question is, what happened to the exhaust ones? Oil failure badly destroyed these? What does that suggest about the inlets.
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The cams have the same profile regardless if inlet or exhaust...its simply the cam wheels and/or what you or the fitter decided what cam does what
If you look on the right bank cam wheels they both have 1 and 2 marks next to the pin slots and the left bank has three and four. VERY important that you align the relevant mark with the cam locking pin
The lift difference is something like 0.9mm no idea on duration or timing difference
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The bloke selling them claims that the exhaust cams are no diffrent between the 2.5 and 3.0 versions.
Is this true?
Gaffers
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No its not......this is only the case on the VERY early C25Xe....which was never fitted to the Omega....
Look here for camshaft details....you need inlet and exhaust to upgrade the X25XE.........
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152565319
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I have seen some 3.0 cams for sale, but they are just the inlet cams. Will I need all 4 cams for the best performance improvement or will these 2 suffice??
A certain Vx employee put 3.0 cams in his 2.5 and soon sold the car as he wasn't prepared to put up with the terrible fuel consumption. He drives a 2.2 diseasal face lift now.
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I have seen some 3.0 cams for sale, but they are just the inlet cams. Will I need all 4 cams for the best performance improvement or will these 2 suffice??
A certain Vx employee put 3.0 cams in his 2.5 and soon sold the car as he wasn't prepared to put up with the terrible fuel consumption. He drives a 2.2 diseasal face lift now.
I have a long list of jobs I want to accomplish with the meega. I dont use it to commute very often as I live v close to where I work. But when I do use it I like to have a little fun, I also want to give my dads XJ6 a run for its money on the track later this year. He has terminal cancer and wants a race day - his jag against my meega. I know he will win but I want it to be by v little :D
Planned work:
-front disks to race spec (MOT advisory rusty)
-lower by 40mm w/ new shocks & spring all round (130k and I think they have never been replaced!)
-replace cams w/ 3.0 (will do at same time as the cam belt which is imminent)
-race air filter and poss install MTek chip
-some sexy rims to go with it all (not sure if I will go for 17 or 18" yet)
plus the odd bit of rust spot work and poss a chrome back box, but I dont want to look too much like a boy racer I just wanna smoke em at the lights!!! :D
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I have seen some 3.0 cams for sale, but they are just the inlet cams. Will I need all 4 cams for the best performance improvement or will these 2 suffice??
A certain Vx employee put 3.0 cams in his 2.5 and soon sold the car as he wasn't prepared to put up with the terrible fuel consumption. He drives a 2.2 diseasal face lift now.
I have a long list of jobs I want to accomplish with the meega. I dont use it to commute very often as I live v close to where I work. But when I do use it I like to have a little fun, I also want to give my dads XJ6 a run for its money on the track later this year. He has terminal cancer and wants a race day - his jag against my meega. I know he will win but I want it to be by v little :D
Planned work:
-front disks to race spec (MOT advisory rusty)
-lower by 40mm w/ new shocks & spring all round (130k and I think they have never been replaced!)
-replace cams w/ 3.0 (will do at same time as the cam belt which is imminent)
-race air filter and poss install MTek chip
-some sexy rims to go with it all (not sure if I will go for 17 or 18" yet)
plus the odd bit of rust spot work and poss a chrome back box, but I dont want to look too much like a boy racer I just wanna smoke em at the lights!!! :D
Sounds like a plan! Best of luck.
Not sure what your choices are on brakes. Good quality pads and fluid with bedded-in rotors may be the best you can do.
Bilsteins, springs, and a good alignment are all very helpful. Also check wishbones, droplinks, steering system, etc.
Tires are more important than rims. The larger the rims, the less progressive the breakaway is so don't go too crazy, also tires are less disposable.
Engine mods are the least important. Make sure that it is running well and watch the fluids.
And get a brain bucket!
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I have seen some 3.0 cams for sale, but they are just the inlet cams. Will I need all 4 cams for the best performance improvement or will these 2 suffice??
A certain Vx employee put 3.0 cams in his 2.5 and soon sold the car as he wasn't prepared to put up with the terrible fuel consumption. He drives a 2.2 diseasal face lift now.
I have a long list of jobs I want to accomplish with the meega. I dont use it to commute very often as I live v close to where I work. But when I do use it I like to have a little fun, I also want to give my dads XJ6 a run for its money on the track later this year. He has terminal cancer and wants a race day - his jag against my meega. I know he will win but I want it to be by v little :D
Planned work:
-front disks to race spec (MOT advisory rusty)
-lower by 40mm w/ new shocks & spring all round (130k and I think they have never been replaced!)
-replace cams w/ 3.0 (will do at same time as the cam belt which is imminent)
-race air filter and poss install MTek chip
-some sexy rims to go with it all (not sure if I will go for 17 or 18" yet)
plus the odd bit of rust spot work and poss a chrome back box, but I dont want to look too much like a boy racer I just wanna smoke em at the lights!!! :D
Sounds like a plan! Best of luck.
Not sure what your choices are on brakes. Good quality pads and fluid with bedded-in rotors may be the best you can do.
Bilsteins, springs, and a good alignment are all very helpful. Also check wishbones, droplinks, steering system, etc.
Tires are more important than rims. The larger the rims, the less progressive the breakaway is so don't go too crazy, also tires are less disposable.
Engine mods are the least important. Make sure that it is running well and watch the fluids.
And get a brain bucket!
English please Theo :D
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what is the likely increase in consumption when changing the cams to 3.0? I currently get 32mpg with CC set to 80mph. Once the change is done what is it likely to drop to? 28? 25? 20? How bad is the increased consumption?
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what is the likely increase in consumption when changing the cams to 3.0? I currently get 32mpg with CC set to 80mph. Once the change is done what is it likely to drop to? 28? 25? 20? How bad is the increased consumption?
My average mpg on a long motorway trip with CC set at 80 is usually around 31 - 33mpg on my 3.0l MV6...
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English please Theo :D
Theo does at least have an exuse for his American spellings .......... 2 countries divided by a common language etc etc
what about?
seams --- seems
There/their/they're for ----- what ever
Disks - another Americanism ----- discs
Program --- programme
Break --- when we're talking about things that stop the car
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My average mpg on a long motorway trip with CC set at 80 is usually around 31 - 33mpg on my 3.0l MV6...
The best my car has ever shown on the GID is around 27 mpg using cruise - not necessarily the most economical - at a steady 75 mph on a motorway journey to "darn sarf" :'(
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what is the likely increase in consumption when changing the cams to 3.0? I currently get 32mpg with CC set to 80mph. Once the change is done what is it likely to drop to? 28? 25? 20? How bad is the increased consumption?
With my 2.5 cd manual with 3.0 cams (both inlet and exhaust) On a cruise at 80mph to 85mph the trip says 34mpg...with city driving thrown in the overall average is around 29mpg and I get 400miles before I need to fill the tank (I notice a 2mpg improvement if I use Tescos 99 ron petrol over 95 run unleaded)
I have blanked off the EGR valve and fitted a K&N replacement panel filter
Fresh oil in the gearbox with a tube of mollyslip and 5w30 oil in the engine (currenty 83300-ish miles)
I chuck a bottle of redex cleaner in every 3 months
New Yokohama AVS db tyres all round running at 32psi
Hope that helps
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English please Theo :D
I thought the filter was still set?! ::)
I get 31 at 75-80 in my 3.0L Elite Auto, 26 in regular use. MID reads 4-5% high.
Seams are in your pants, nothing to do with seems!
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English please Theo :D
Theo does at least have an exuse for his American spellings .......... 2 countries divided by a common language etc etc
what about?
seams --- seems
There/their/they're for ----- what ever
Disks - another Americanism ----- discs
Program --- programme
Break --- when we're talking about things that stop the car
No offense to my fellow Yankee but those aren't American colloquialisms. Just bad spelling. A brake disc is also called a rotor over here. Somtimes we paint the calipers a different color. Maybe he's been over there too long and picked up their habits. Not necessarily bad habits, they're just different. Maybe he's been programed to spell that way. Seems like you need to brush up on your spelling also, or is that the way excuse is spelled in Great Britain? ;D
Elvin
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Speaking about language differences i must admit that the best and most comprehensive accent to me is the American accent! And they seem to understand my accent much better as well(or probably they are shy to ask to repeat what i#m saying);D
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Maybe he's been programed to spell that way. Seems like you need to brush up on your spelling also, or is that the way excuse is spelled in Great Britain? ;D
Elvin
You must've used used the same spell chequer as me. ;)
Programmed has 2 m's in English !