Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: ClarCE on 26 February 2007, 13:08:35
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I'll stop forum whoring soon, but first:
One:
Drivers side central locking: this sticks when you unlock so you have to use the key to get in, and sticks again on locking but does move a bit when you hit the button again to activate the deadlocks - still have to use the key to get it all the way down: anyone had this and know how to fix?
Two:
Got a new fuel filter, is it an easy job - couldn't see a guide to show me the way..
Many thanks in advance,
Chris.
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Don't know about the locks, but I found the fuel filter staight forward (if a little fiddly), even for me! [smiley=grin.gif]
My advice. Take the wheel off for easier access and either get a small terminal screwdriver to press the clip tags down (and work it off one side a little at a time) or the correct tool for undoing the clips (expensive and probably unessesary). Oh, and vent the pressure off the system using the valve on the fuel rail first to prevent you getting to like the taste of petrol.
Be careful removing the cable tie thingy that holds the filter, its a little fragile.
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Door lock, common, try cleaning/lubricating the linkages in door, but that will just mask the fact that the motor is knackered. A new motor should sort this, but still lube up the linkages when you do it.
Fuel filter is easy enough. I use small screwdrivers due to not having suitable tool. You will get a face full of petrol (around a cupful if system depressurised), so take precautions - goggles minimum. Oh, and no smoking.... ;D
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Door lock, common, try cleaning/lubricating the linkages in door, but that will just mask the fact that the motor is knackered. A new motor should sort this, but still lube up the linkages when you do it.
Fuel filter is easy enough. I use small screwdrivers due to not having suitable tool. You will get a face full of petrol (around a cupful if system depressurised), so take precautions - goggles minimum. Oh, and no smoking.... ;D
Right, sounds good - so new door motor for the central locking, extinguish all naked flames :D I can manage that, how do I 'depressurize the fuel system' to save £60 emptying on the drive?!
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Pull the fuse or fuel pump relay and attempt to start (should stall within a sec or 2).
If you don't depressurise, you'll end up with a couple of cupfuls in your face....
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If you don't depressurise, you'll end up with a couple of cupfuls in your face....
Opps, sorry to the ladies, just realised what I said.... ;)
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I had a similar problem with a door lock motor a couple of years back.It started off intermitently working then packed up completely. I took it out of the door, prized open a small gap in the plastic motor housing just enough to get the little plastic WD40 pipe inside and completely blasted it with the stuff until it ran out of the bottom. Dried up the excess oil put it back in the door and its been fine ever since.
Its worth a shot before buying a new one.
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I had a similar problem with a door lock motor a couple of years back.It started off intermitently working then packed up completely. I took it out of the door, prized open a small gap in the plastic motor housing just enough to get the little plastic WD40 pipe inside and completely blasted it with the stuff until it ran out of the bottom. Dried up the excess oil put it back in the door and its been fine ever since.
Its worth a shot before buying a new one.
Yes, and clean up microswitches if poss as well. However, not the easiest thing to take apart and clean without damaging, hence why nice to have a new (not necessarily brand new ;)) one to hand...
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Cheers all, I'll let you know how I get on - weather and mrs permitting..
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Door lock, common, try cleaning/lubricating the linkages in door, but that will just mask the fact that the motor is knackered. A new motor should sort this, but still lube up the linkages when you do it.
Fuel filter is easy enough. I use small screwdrivers due to not having suitable tool. You will get a face full of petrol (around a cupful if system depressurised), so take precautions - goggles minimum. Oh, and no smoking.... ;D
I was just to post about this, I guess this info carries on into a facelift model, will pop down to my local cheap breakers yard to get a spare before attacking my door (damage there knacker trying to figure out how the door panel comes off ;D)
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damage there knacker trying to figure out how the door panel comes off
Easy enough to get off, except facelift door has 'secret' screw in the flap bit. Open the flap, and there is a small bit of plastic that comes off, with screw behind...
Other thing, on door with side airbags, ensure the weather shield sheet is reasonably in tact - the side sensors rely on pressure quickly changing, and TIS warnings that if torn, the sheet should be replaced...
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Easy enough to get off,
I liked this part ! except facelift door has 'secret' screw in the flap bit. Open the flap, and there is a small bit of plastic that comes off, with screw behind...
Other thing, on door with side airbags, ensure the weather shield sheet is reasonably in tact - the side sensors rely on pressure quickly changing, and TIS warnings that if torn, the sheet should be replaced...
Errrrmmmm ok... I found somewhere (on the forum) a picture of all the screws, is my car likly to have the side airbags ? you mean the ones fitted into the seat ?
what's a TIS warning ?
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Yes, you have side airbags. Any work you do on the door, I would recommend you disconect the battery first.
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Yes, you have side airbags. Any work you do on the door, I would recommend you disconect the battery first.
Right well that's it ! the job's on hold already.... not got a car pass as yet so no idea what the radio code is, and I'm not bloody listening to the wife on journeys ! I'll just have to reach over to open her door for now ;D
Will get the part from the scrap yard and attack it when I have the car pass back, glad I asked before attacking it as I wouldn't have bothered to remove the battery to do it