Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: jonny2112 on 12 March 2007, 21:03:59
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A couple of things -
1. how do the lifters actually work, and why do they make that tapping noise? Is it because the internal spring is broken?
2. can they be accessed without removing the cams, or indeed can the cams be easily removed and refitted, without doing the belt etc? Belt change not due for another 10k, but cam cover gaskets need done now.
3. I'm hoping to do this myself when changing the gaskets and cleaning the breathers, but wanted some guidance and advice in case I should leave it to a proper mechanic! Particularly if the cambelt has to be done at the same time, though I have the DVD and might just give it a go as well :-?
4. I have seen Marks DTM guide to cleaning the lifters once they are out, but will try and source some new or good condition used ones (a couple anyway) prior to starting - just in case some may need replacing.
Sorry for the potentially stupid questions, and I guess there could be more to follow :-[
Cheers in advance
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A couple of things -
1. how do the lifters actually work, and why do they make that tapping noise? Is it because the internal spring is broken?
2. can they be accessed without removing the cams, or indeed can the cams be easily removed and refitted, without doing the belt etc? Belt change not due for another 10k, but cam cover gaskets need done now.
3. I'm hoping to do this myself when changing the gaskets and cleaning the breathers, but wanted some guidance and advice in case I should leave it to a proper mechanic! Particularly if the cambelt has to be done at the same time, though I have the DVD and might just give it a go as well :-?
4. I have seen Marks DTM guide to cleaning the lifters once they are out, but will try and source some new or good condition used ones (a couple anyway) prior to starting - just in case some may need replacing.
Sorry for the potentially stupid questions, and I guess there could be more to follow :-[
Cheers in advance
If the belt is due in 10k, I would replace the belt and tensioners when you do other work.
Cams need to come out I believe...
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1) Magic
2) No, belt & cams have to come out
Are you sure it isn't the EM gasket leaking?
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1) Magic
2) No, belt & cams have to come out
Are you sure it isn't the EM gasket leaking?
The bloke I bought it off and the MOT tester thought the manifold gasket leak was a noisy lifter on my new one :o
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I don't think it's the EM as the noise is constant, no matter how far you travel it never seems to change, as oppose to going away when warmed up sort of thing. Sounds a little worse inside the car when under load too.
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I don't think it's the EM as the noise is constant, no matter how far you travel it never seems to change, as oppose to going away when warmed up sort of thing. Sounds a little worse inside the car when under load too.
Still sounds like EM. They don't all go away after warming up, especially if a stud is broken, and load doesn't affect lifters - but the leak would get worse.
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1) Magic
2) No, belt & cams have to come out
Are you sure it isn't the EM gasket leaking?
The bloke I bought it off and the MOT tester thought the manifold gasket leak was a noisy lifter on my new one :o
Yeah, I saw yours. Apparently they also thought it should be washed 8x a week! :-? ;D Looks pretty good though. Your front discs are only 2% worse than mine. :P
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Apart from using the stethoscope idea, is there any way of determining which it is more likely to be?
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Apart from using the stethoscope idea, is there any way of determining which it is more likely to be?
Should be pretty easy to hear with the hood up and the engine running. The noise will be down the side if EM, right on top if lifters. Blip the throttle a bit too.
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Apart from using the stethoscope idea, is there any way of determining which it is more likely to be?
Should be pretty easy to hear with the hood up and the engine running. The noise will be down the side if EM, right on top if lifters. Blip the throttle a bit too.
Cheers Theo, I'll have another look/listen tomorrow. I can't decide which I would prefer, by all accounts the em is a bit of a nightmare, albeit I do believe it's the drivers side. Anyone done this?
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1. how do the lifters actually work, and why do they make that tapping noise? Is it because the internal spring is broken?
Quite simple realy, the lifters are fed with pressurised oil via a small hole in their side, this is trapped in the body of the lifter and forces the bottom plunger out which takes up the cam to valve clearance. The oil is kept inside the lifter by a small valve in the feed which consists of a ball bearing and a spring. As you cant compress a fluid the clearance is maintained at close to zero...
They get noisey by
a) The spring breaking (seen it on a few following bent valves)
b) There being that much grit and crudd that the ball bearing no longer seats properly (this might quieten down after a few minutes as they pump back up again)
2. can they be accessed without removing the cams, or indeed can the cams be easily removed and refitted, without doing the belt etc? Belt change not due for another 10k, but cam cover gaskets need done now.
Cams need removing and so does the belt I am afraid.....you will also need new cam seals.....and if you have a 2.5, think about 3.0 cams....
3. I'm hoping to do this myself when changing the gaskets and cleaning the breathers, but wanted some guidance and advice in case I should leave it to a proper mechanic! Particularly if the cambelt has to be done at the same time, though I have the DVD and might just give it a go as well :-?
Not to difficult to do.....
4. I have seen Marks DTM guide to cleaning the lifters once they are out, but will try and source some new or good condition used ones (a couple anyway) prior to starting - just in case some may need replacing.
A few second hand ones that have been cleaned prior to the work are good....beware though....early follwers are different to later ones (approx 97 cut over) and should not be mixed as the later ones require a higher oil pressure.....
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Apart from using the stethoscope idea, is there any way of determining which it is more likely to be?
Should be pretty easy to hear with the hood up and the engine running. The noise will be down the side if EM, right on top if lifters. Blip the throttle a bit too.
Cheers Theo, I'll have another look/listen tomorrow. I can't decide which I would prefer, by all accounts the em is a bit of a nightmare, albeit I do believe it's the drivers side. Anyone done this?
Driver's side apparently 2hrs and not too bad if stud not broken. You will need coolant. I need to do mine too >:(
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What's your oil and filter like, is your oil old or too thin i.e. correct viscosity? Always used to know when my Ford V6 Colonge engines oil was getting thin, noisy tappets, low pressre on guage.. Is there a pressure regulator valve on the X30XE ?
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The oil and filter are being changed every 3000 miles or so in an attempt to see if that would help. No change so far. The noise sounds like it is definately on top, but I'll check further over the weekend. I can't afford to do everything (anything at the mo!!) at once, but this is a bit like dominoes - before you can do one thing you must do another, but you can't do that until........you know what I mean.
I'll have to have a serious think about the best options at this time. There's a lot of stripping down to be done for each job, which will also require new gaskets, seals etc. You wouldn't want to have to replace the same items too many times in quick succession! :'(
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I've got the same issue but I think mine is EM gasket, when I kneel near the offside front wheel I can hear the tapping from under the car and it seems more pronounced.
Can cam followers be done without removing head (just taking cams out?)
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I've got a ticking but only when the engine is hot and it's got fresh Vx10W/30 in it. I've also got a vacuum leak inside the cabin somewhere but everything is working so I've just bought http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270096878605 to see if I can pin either of these down. I didn't have a leak before doing the heads and I did replace the gaskets with genuine Vx ones, no broken studs and I did tighten it to the 20nm required.
You do only need to remove cams, heads don't need to come off.
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270096878605 getting one of these and a nurses outfit for the wife.. Wey Hey!!!! :-*