Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: toller on 04 April 2007, 17:19:11
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2 things i'm a bit stuck with this evening. Firstly as i've already posted my 2.5 omega failed it's MOT last week on CO emissions, I've had a bit of a dabble with everything and cleaned throttle body, breathers etc etc but only got round to doing the idle control valve tonight, gave it a few squirts of carb cleaner shook it out and a few drops of 3 in 1 oil and it was all moving freely, incidently how far is it supposed to open? should it open fully or just a small crack about 4mm or so wide?
Anyway put it all back together and the engine refuses to start whereas it was fine before, i can only get it to start if i've got the throttle fully open and as soon as it's released the engines just dies. Anyone know whats going on?
Secondly, whilst scrabbling about under the car to pick up a dropped screwdriver i noticed a loose wire with a white connector hanging down by the drivers side of the oil sump, i'm assuming it's come away from somewhere as it has one of the little metal springclips still attached to hold it onto whatever socket it's supposed to be on.
The wire from this leads into a bundle that inturn goes to the alternator and then goes off somehwere else. I've not seen this before although it could just be i've never noticed it as everything down there has a good coating of oil from my rocker covers.
(http://www.revengeguy.co.uk/pics/plug.jpg)
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Looks like oil level sensor wires....sensor is on the top side of the butterfly winged sump pan....
As for non-start......are any fault codes stored......did the engine run ok before the idle valve clean.......did you carry out any other work at the same time.....is the idle valve connector and pipe work all correctly fitted and plugged together....
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I've now managed to get it running (sort of) although if i rev it hard and come straight off the throttle it almost cuts out but recovers. I've only cleaned the IACV tonight although i didn't start it beofre i began, it was however running fine on Sunday and it's not been used or even started since then.
Not checked the fault codes, will do now.
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Ok, fault codes
I got (i think)
14
44
73
57
31
The EML light hasn't come one although on starting the car agin it is now running like a bag of s***, really annoyed as it's supposed to be in for a retest on wednesday.
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Ok, revise that a bit
14
73
57
31
Only just seen fault codes go into 3 figures so it looks like i got 144 and 145 as well.
Dose it flash them out in numerical order or in the order they are logged?
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14 - Coolant temp voltage low
73 - MAF voltage low
57 - ICV voltage low
31 - crank, ignore this, and the immobiliser ones 144/145
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Just been out to do them again now that the sun has gone down and i can see the light properly and they are indeed
14
144
145
73
57
31
I had previously started it and once it was warm it seemed to run ok, i've now just tried to start it again and it's doing the same as before, it won't fire up unless the throttle is part way open and it pops and farts when it's running, it seems ok when the engine is warm though.
What is the next course of action to take, is it possible i've knackered the ICV when cleaning it? The car ran fine before i took it off so that's the only thing i can think of :(
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The 14 may make it difficult to start when cold - ECU doesn't know coolant temp...
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Where is the coolant temp sensor located? Do they just fail like that as it was running fine at the weekend.
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Where is the coolant temp sensor located? Do they just fail like that as it was running fine at the weekend.
Surprised it hasn't lit up the EML, but then the one on my TD hasn't either....
They are normally trouble free, and unless you've had the intake off, I doubt you would have disturbed it (its on coolant bridge)
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You'll have to forgive me for sounding thick, this is my first vauxhall, i know fords inside out :)
Where is the coolant bridge?
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You'll have to forgive me for sounding thick, this is my first vauxhall, i know fords inside out :)
Where is the coolant bridge?
In the vee, between the banks, at the back...
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Thanks, will have a look in the morning.
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Still doing all of the above after havinga good poke around this morning. The symptoms are fairly similar to the very first time i had the plenum off and forgot to plug the ICV back in, now bought a new ICV (cheers laidback66) so will see if that sorts it when it arrived next week.
Paying a vist to the scrappy tomorrow too so may try getting replacements for the other sensors that are throwing up fault codes and see if changing them over helps.
By the way, how do you clear fault codes from the ECU, is it simply a case of disconnecting the battery for half an hour, and given that it had logged the previous codes shoun't the light have come on?
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Still doing all of the above after havinga good poke around this morning. The symptoms are fairly similar to the very first time i had the plenum off and forgot to plug the ICV back in, now bought a new ICV (cheers laidback66) so will see if that sorts it when it arrived next week.
Paying a vist to the scrappy tomorrow too so may try getting replacements for the other sensors that are throwing up fault codes and see if changing them over helps.
By the way, how do you clear fault codes from the ECU, is it simply a case of disconnecting the battery for half an hour, and given that it had logged the previous codes shoun't the light have come on?
You cannot clear them.
Most will clear after a set number of clean starts after the fault fixed....
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I think you can clear codes if you take both the leads off the battery and and touch them together (the earth and posotive leads, NOT the battery terminals) this drains the power that is stored in the capacitor. This is wat I have herd, I am going to do it to mine this weekend. It is up to you if you want to do this. good luck
Omegalyn
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I think you can clear codes if you take both the leads off the battery and and touch them together (the earth and posotive leads, NOT the battery terminals) this drains the power that is stored in the capacitor. This is wat I have herd, I am going to do it to mine this weekend. It is up to you if you want to do this. good luck
Omegalyn
Given that the codes are stored in non-volatile memory....that wont work.....
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Thanks for that, dose leaving the leads off all night work, or is that another myth, only tach2 or clean starts will do the job?
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Thanks for that, dose leaving the leads off all night work, or is that another myth, only tach2 or clean starts will do the job?
Another myth.
Tech1/2 or clean starts (clean starts don't remove all codes, but stop them appearing in paperclip test)
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Did you find a home for the white connector? if its the oil level sensor its on the top of the sump, under the alternator.
Code 14 : coolant sensor low voltage. The low voltage suggests a short to earth, or a faulty sensor, this would tend to send the mixture weak but because the ecu has logged it as a fault then it will use a default value for coolant temp. This could be the cause of the original CO failure.
Non-starting except with throttle open suggests that the idle valve is closed, once started will it run over a reasonable throttle range?
As you shut the throttle does it attempt to idle or just die?
Idle valve must be connected OK as no fault code so presume it is sticking.
One other thought is EGR stuck open? easy to blank off if problem persists with replacement IACV
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Getting the car over a pit today so i can replace the brake pipes so hopefully i'll find a home for the white connector.
I can only start ti with the throttle open, i have pulled the ICV out but left it plugged in and turned over the engine and as soon as the key is turned it goes from open to fully closed, it start ok with the throttle open and needs revving hard for a few seconds in whihc time it misfires, however it soon seems to settle down and then idles ok at about 500, the idle doesn't seem as stable as it was before though, it tends to dip below 500 before recovering.
If i start the car with throttle open then immediately release the throttle it just dies.
There is a fault code ogged for the ICV.
I'll get some new sensors this weekend and see if they make a difference.
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Getting the car over a pit today so i can replace the brake pipes so hopefully i'll find a home for the white connector.
I can only start ti with the throttle open, i have pulled the ICV out but left it plugged in and turned over the engine and as soon as the key is turned it goes from open to fully closed, it start ok with the throttle open and needs revving hard for a few seconds in whihc time it misfires, however it soon seems to settle down and then idles ok at about 500, the idle doesn't seem as stable as it was before though, it tends to dip below 500 before recovering.
If i start the car with throttle open then immediately release the throttle it just dies.
There is a fault code ogged for the ICV.
I'll get some new sensors this weekend and see if they make a difference.
i think you've been unlucky and knackered icv :(
Which code is stored?
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57, which i believe is ICV interruption.