Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: ClarCE on 21 April 2007, 12:02:17
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Morning all,
Kevin and myself have the engine in peices, all ready to remove the old cams now - we've got the new ones but we're unsure which is which this is quite important!
The numbers on the new ones are:
G2 A7 A3 G8
Can someone tell me if its these numbers that identify them, if it is - which order do I put them in looking at the engine from the front of the car?!
Many thanks - if these are not the numbers needed please let me know...
Cheers in advance,
Chris.
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Its the letters that identify them.....here is the link to the maintenance guide that gives details...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152565319
G's are inlet and A's are exhaust...
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How's it going?
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How's it going?
Well, we got the old cams out and the new cams in no problem at all. Cam covers back on. Spotted a really easy way to get to the thermostat and transfer pipe with the cam belt backplate off. Shame ClarCE did that last weekend...
Cam oil seals were a pain to get in because we couldn't find an appropriate sized object to use as a drift. Got there in the end. Fingers crossed they are oil tight.
Ended up having a few hassles getting the cam belt back on as the timing marks had worn off the (virtually new) belt and when we did identify them they didn't want to line up. I had to make tracks at this point. TBH by then we'd been out in the sun all day and we were probably not in the best mental state to tackle such a critical part of the operation.
To be resumed tomorrow unless ClarCE does one of his legendary all-nighters and sorts it.
Kevin
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How's it going?
Well, we got the old cams out and the new cams in no problem at all. Cam covers back on. Spotted a really easy way to get to the thermostat and transfer pipe with the cam belt backplate off. Shame ClarCE did that last weekend...
Cam oil seals were a pain to get in because we couldn't find an appropriate sized object to use as a drift. Got there in the end. Fingers crossed they are oil tight.
Ended up having a few hassles getting the cam belt back on as the timing marks had worn off the (virtually new) belt and when we did identify them they didn't want to line up. I had to make tracks at this point. TBH by then we'd been out in the sun all day and we were probably not in the best mental state to tackle such a critical part of the operation.
To be resumed tomorrow unless ClarCE does one of his legendary all-nighters and sorts it.
Kevin
Well this all-nighter wasn't quite as legendary! But I can tell you that about 20 minutes ago I finished putting everything back together after getting the timing to actually time up, fired her up and all is GOOD!!
Been for a run at mach 1 up the bypass, damn is it quick!
My only problem is - suprise, suprise, I have a noisy lifter!! I'm praying that some hydraulic lifter cleaner will fix this tomorrow, failing that it can wait for now until I have money to replace them all!
Kevin, I can't thank you enough for your efforts and help! I shall be bringing you back your tools and locking kit (I can't do the 28th now, woman problems like you wouldn't believe here!) And I'll bring the beer up to you too ;)
For now I must sleep - too tired to type, and too happy after taking it for a blast, must have had a very large grin :D
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Well done guys!
Quick question for you, that I have also posted elsewhere. When you replaced the right hand (drivers side) cams they were at 60 degrees before the timing marks? At what stage did you return them to the correct marks, and how do you do it? Is it simply a matter of rotating them with a spanner on the camshaft?
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Well this all-nighter wasn't quite as legendary! But I can tell you that about 20 minutes ago I finished putting everything back together after getting the timing to actually time up, fired her up and all is GOOD!!
Been for a run at mach 1 up the bypass, damn is it quick!
My only problem is - suprise, suprise, I have a noisy lifter!! I'm praying that some hydraulic lifter cleaner will fix this tomorrow, failing that it can wait for now until I have money to replace them all!
Kevin, I can't thank you enough for your efforts and help! I shall be bringing you back your tools and locking kit (I can't do the 28th now, woman problems like you wouldn't believe here!) And I'll bring the beer up to you too ;)
For now I must sleep - too tired to type, and too happy after taking it for a blast, must have had a very large grin :D
Excellent! I'm glad it's all up and running - and that the work has been worthwhile. Sorry I had to depart half way through the job.
I'd give the noisy lifter a little while to pump up before worrying too much. It could be that it got squished down a bit more than usual during the cam change. How long a run did you give it? They can take a few minutes sometimes. See Mark's post in this section about testing / cleaning them out too. That would have been an easy job 8 hours ago. Never mind!
Sorry to hear about the woman troubles. My woman trouble barometer (automatically active during extended car fellting) was heading towards changeable earlier and I thought a cam belt day next weekend was going to be a brave plan. Enjoy the car and try to resist the urge to strip it down again next weekend.
Don't worry about bringing my tools back tomorrow. Suggest spending the time shopping for shoes and handbags and surprise her. You can always drop them off at my brother's place (when I remember the address). I'm seeing him tomorrow evening anyway so I won't be without them for long.
It did occur to me on the way home that the locking wheelnut key for the Westfield is in that toolbox ::) Fortunately I didn't get a puncture.
Cheers,
Kevin
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Very good...
In answer to the cams question....its the crank that has to be 60deg before TDC.....you then line the cams up with the back plate markings and lock them with the locking tools and then bring the crank to TDC....
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:y :y :y
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Good to hear they had the desired effect Chris. :)
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Good to hear they had the desired effect Chris. :)
oooo, mama! I've just got back from the gf's parents all day, went the long way - I put some lifter treatment in this morning, a dose of slick 50 fuel cleaner in the tank, half a dose of slick 50 engine protectant in the oil (I know theres dispute on using these, but as my engine was already covered in it I wanted the new cams to be too) - and its now nice and quiet!
I've out run nearly every car I came across this evening, had some great fun - it also now seems to roar louder when it hits 4k revs..
My housemate and I timed it on a 0-60 yesterday, did it three times - same every time.
Bearing in mind its a 2.5 with 3.0 Litre Cams, Chip (yes this is in now too!), New Exhaust, and just about new everything else including gearbox oil (oh yeah, and its an auto)
SEVEN POINT ONE SECONDS!!! (7.1)
I am SO impressed :D :D
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:o Crikey, that's quick!
I wonder if the speedo calibration is OK because that's fast!
Still, if the seat of the pants has noticed a worthwhile difference, that's the main thing.
Out of interest, have you noticed any downsides to the new cams?
Was thinking they may have made the torque at low revs a little weaker or the idle a little lumpier?
Then again, they're probably still fairly mild cams so unlikely to have too many down sides.
No point in asking about the fuel consumption yet by the sounds of it!
(or the low RPM performance for that matter!)
Cheers,
Kevin
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:o Crikey, that's quick!
I wonder if the speedo calibration is OK because that's fast!
Still, if the seat of the pants has noticed a worthwhile difference, that's the main thing.
Out of interest, have you noticed any downsides to the new cams?
Was thinking they may have made the torque at low revs a little weaker or the idle a little lumpier?
Then again, they're probably still fairly mild cams so unlikely to have too many down sides.
No point in asking about the fuel consumption yet by the sounds of it!
(or the low RPM performance for that matter!)
Cheers,
Kevin
Funny you should say that, the idle is lumpier, not much just a very small, but noticeable vibration...
As for the speedo calibration, I do have 50 profile tyres rather than 55 as I should have, which I had kind of forgotton about until last night - this could affect that speed - don't know if I could test it on a GPS - not sure if it would be quick enough at reporting my speed if you see what I mean..
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A GPS will give you a very accurate indication of speed as long as you are travelling at a resonably constant speed in a straight line so yes, they can be useful in determining how good your speedo calibration is. They are no good for timing 0-60 due to the poor (1Hz) update rate.
For 0-60 tests you really want one of these http://www.race-technology.com/ap22_2_82.html.
My finger has wavered over the "add to basket" button many a time but I've resisted so far. I'm sure I will crack eventually. Had great fun with one of these once on an - ermm - private test track with a large group of cars trying to beat each others' times. I think the FTD was 4.2 s 0-60 IIRC. :o
Kevin
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Hi Kevin,
I we are Dealers for those performance meters ;)
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Better than that....I know the owners dad...who is also a director....
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Ahh, OK. Good on both counts.
I will have a think about one then.
Kevin
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:o Crikey, that's quick!
I wonder if the speedo calibration is OK because that's fast!
Still, if the seat of the pants has noticed a worthwhile difference, that's the main thing.
Out of interest, have you noticed any downsides to the new cams?
Was thinking they may have made the torque at low revs a little weaker or the idle a little lumpier?
Then again, they're probably still fairly mild cams so unlikely to have too many down sides.
No point in asking about the fuel consumption yet by the sounds of it!
(or the low RPM performance for that matter!)
Cheers,
Kevin
Funny you should say that, the idle is lumpier, not much just a very small, but noticeable vibration...
As for the speedo calibration, I do have 50 profile tyres rather than 55 as I should have, which I had kind of forgotton about until last night - this could affect that speed - don't know if I could test it on a GPS - not sure if it would be quick enough at reporting my speed if you see what I mean..
You could probably (with a calculator :o) work out the difference here
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
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Bear in mind that speedos always read high in any case.
When I put the kit car through its' single vehicle approval test speedo calibration was part of the procedure. It was allowed to over read horribly but not to under read. IIRC, at an indicated 70 MPH a true speed of 57 :o to 70 MPH was allowed.
Thinking about it, TheBoy mentioned accessing the dash via Tech2 to check his temperature gauge. I wonder if it's possible to adjust the speedo calibration?
Kevin
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You cant adjust it.....every speedo I have checked on an Omega (using tech2) has read over by 3-5mph.....but its a constant 3-5mph from about 30mph upwards.....so not a percentage error.
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Yep, using the slightly less scientific method of Sat Nav speed against speedo reading gives speedo over reading by a steady 3mph at speeds over 40mph to... well... high speeds... ::)
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You cant adjust it.....every speedo I have checked on an Omega (using tech2) has read over by 3-5mph.....but its a constant 3-5mph from about 30mph upwards.....so not a percentage error.
I would concur. All I have Tech2'd read slightly over, usually by a consistent amount. 2-3mph seems to be average, though some less, some more. Note, this is with Tech2 - remember there are other things that affect accuracy, even down to tyre wear...
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OK. I'd have thought there would be some way of calibrating for different wheel sizes and the like. In the old days you just fitted a diffferent speedo cable drive gear. Maybe the errors are not significant enough to bother.
Kevin