Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: nemesis_v6 on 17 April 2007, 02:31:25
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i was just wondering if anyone has tuned a 3lt v6 i would like about 300bhp if poss dose anyoneonehaveany tips amgoingtoget air filter exhustbut fromthere dont know
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I hope you have VERY deep pockets then! ;D
It is a normally aspirated engine, so gains are very limited.
Plenty of information on here about the limited gains available. Look at this thread.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1176533616
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The air filter already there is very good and it draws cool air in from in front of the radiator. A cone filter in the engine bay will make things worse. Get a plastic drinks bottle, take the top off and run hot water down the sides. Put the top back on and let it cool and see how much it colapses. That's what happens to the air when you have a cone filter, you get less mass because it's hot.
Also the exhaust is already good. Have a look under the car at the size of the pipes on each side. They are large when you consider each one is carrying the exhaust from a 1.5l engine. The manifolds themselves are restrictive though and replacing them can help a little.
The engine has a high compression ratio of 10.8:1 so to super/turbo charge it you have to lower that first. It can be done but you are looking at 5-6k.
The best thing you can do for your money is making sure it has clean air and fuel filters. If the ones in there are old changing them can really make a difference.
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out of interest on that score, I presume the 2.6 & 3.2's are better for turbo/super charging as the compression ratio is already lower at 10.0:1
plus the 3.2 supposedly has a steel crank - not sure if the 2.6 has that too?
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out of interest on that score, I presume the 2.6 & 3.2's are better for turbo/super charging as the compression ratio is already lower at 10.0:1
plus the 3.2 supposedly has a steel crank - not sure if the 2.6 has that too?
I'm not an expert, just quoting bits I remember from looking into it at one point and what I've picked up from here. I saw an interesting explanation within the last year but I can't remember if it was on here or not.
I think 11:1 is the maximum you should be aiming for or can have, sorry but I can't remember the reason. The turbo starts the compression before the air gets to the cylinder so the lower the number is in the cylinder the more you can compress things before it goes in and the bigger the bang. This would make the 10:1 ratio engines better but you only want the turbo to compress things by ten percent or so. If you have a ratio of 7:1 you can compress things a lot more. For a turbo to have a pressure of two atmospheres you need an original compression ratio of 5.5:1 for example so a 3.2l engine will burn as much fuel as a 6.4l one.
Hopefully I'm not too far wrong with that lot but someone will correct me if so I hope, all sorts of rubbish sticks in my brain but it doesn't always come back the same as it went in these days.
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Hi there,
I have a Tuning chip installed, a 4 bar fuel regulator,magnecor leads and a Mantzal power resonator (copy), i had the original back in 2001 on my old Elite and my friend took the dimensions of it and had it made in stainless steel but never got around to fitting it so i have bought it all these years later from him and fitted it to my 3.0MV6,
now my problem is that i have on the end of it a cone filter but what you are saying is that i need to connect it to the air box and just have a panel filter? is that correct?
now that i have all these tuning modds on the car, Do i need to get it on the rolling road and have it remapped to adjust to the changes?
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courtney used to offer a turbo kit for the v6,then withdrew it form sale,as it kept blowing peoples engines up,ho hum lol
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courtney used to offer a turbo kit for the v6
They were actually supplied to the RUC. They were a LPT and IIRC only gave about 280ish bhp
If you want 300bhp, easiest and possibly the only real alternative is NOS, but you will prob take the engine home in a Tesco bag after a while
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now my problem is that i have on the end of it a cone filter but what you are saying is that i need to connect it to the air box and just have a panel filter? is that correct?
now that i have all these tuning modds on the car, Do i need to get it on the rolling road and have it remapped to adjust to the changes?
If the cone filter is just sitting under the bonnet it's unlikely to be doing you any good once the engine has warmed up since it will be pulling in air that has gone through the radiator. You may like the noise though :)
The original air filter has a huge surface area of filter, take one apart and pull it open. When it's clean I don't think it can be beaten and when it isn't clean replace it. The MAF is sensitive to oil droplets from these oil cleanerd filters as well. If too much oil is left on the filter it can be sucked into the intake and get on the top surface of the MAF causing it to give wrong readings.
I don't know if it's worth the rolling road. If you happen to have one in your back garden it would be interesting to see what the difference is between the standard air filter and a cone filter once the engine is hot. I'm not convinced you can beat the VX one even with the bonnet open :)
There is a chip that has been recommended but it's not the cheapest one I can't remember the name at the moment but do a search for something tek (maybe mtek?).
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out of interest on that score, I presume the 2.6 & 3.2's are better for turbo/super charging as the compression ratio is already lower at 10.0:1
plus the 3.2 supposedly has a steel crank - not sure if the 2.6 has that too?
I'm not an expert, just quoting bits I remember from looking into it at one point and what I've picked up from here. I saw an interesting explanation within the last year but I can't remember if it was on here or not.
I think 11:1 is the maximum you should be aiming for or can have, sorry but I can't remember the reason. The turbo starts the compression before the air gets to the cylinder so the lower the number is in the cylinder the more you can compress things before it goes in and the bigger the bang. This would make the 10:1 ratio engines better but you only want the turbo to compress things by ten percent or so. If you have a ratio of 7:1 you can compress things a lot more. For a turbo to have a pressure of two atmospheres you need an original compression ratio of 5.5:1 for example so a 3.2l engine will burn as much fuel as a 6.4l one.
Hopefully I'm not too far wrong with that lot but someone will correct me if so I hope, all sorts of rubbish sticks in my brain but it doesn't always come back the same as it went in these days.
That's not quite true. I have been in street cars running over 2bar on 9 or 10:1 CR, stock internals and normal petrol. A short list of the issues involved are; where it makes boost, volumetric efficiency, charge air temps, pressure drops, ECU capability, and on and on. However, turbo charging an engine that was not turbo'd to begin with is an easy way to waste a lot of time and money. It can be done, but far easier to put on a supercharger at 0.3 to 0.5 bar with other normal bits and leave it at that. That may not get you to 300 without a lot of octane boost, but going any further is orders of magnitude harder and more expensive.
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I love speed too, just curious though why 300 bhp, are you planning a entering into a particular formula? Surely a chip, induction kit and fuel reg will make enough bhp increase for road use, a 3.0l should make 245 bhp with this little lot I would have thought... My Elite is more than enough for my requiremnts, with only a K&N panel in it ( Sharper throttle )... I don't hang about either..
DC
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i would like to do drag days but keep at a sensiable level bhp that is
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Read somewhere about a diff upgrade to change ratio for acceleration...
Anyone?
DC
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I believe lsd is lower ratio...
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mine ex cop car so what changes have been done to car ive been told uprated cams chip remap is this true that this gets done my meega is very fast after 2500rpm and i think lsd diff as slips well but tips on how to tell if right would help thanks
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mine ex cop car so what changes have been done to car ive been told uprated cams chip remap is this true that this gets done my meega is very fast after 2500rpm and i think lsd diff as slips well but tips on how to tell if right would help thanks
As far as I know Omega cop cars have uprated suspension and some had LSD, but standard engines. Having said that, I think that Mark DTM suggested some time ago that his ex-plod had a higher rev limiter than standard....
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How difficult is it to fit one of these lsd to a non MV6, and does it have any implications?
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How difficult is it to fit one of these lsd to a non MV6, and does it have any implications?
You'll have to find one first.....
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hi guys new to the forum .. but may well be able to shed some light on this issue ........
i have a 3.0 omega which i use as a track car...... was a cheap way of having fun..... but with everything i ever do i turn it from cheap to expensive .... without even trying..... ha ha ha
mine was a 1995 3.0 manual ELITE ex-cop ......... and in the last 9 months i have tried lots of strange things with it.....
early cop cars where infact elites not MV6's as they hadn't made Mv6's yet..... but the cop elites were pretty much a test bed for the MV6.... the shocks were MV6 items before they even existed... as were springs..... 120amp alt instead of 90amp..... and ALL came with a plated LSD diff.... ratio's were no different lsd to non lsd. manual were 3.70-1 and auto 3.90-1
i know what happens if you change diff's as i have 3 x LSD diffs 3.70-1, 1x 3.90 and finally 1x4.22-1
the 4.22 gave it quicker accel but only just and it topped out at about 140mph off limiter so you lose top end by about 10mph..... but your forever changing gear and really only bebifits a revvy engine not the lower revving 3.0... i think either stay with the 3.70-1 or go for a happy medium and grab 1 out of a 3.0 auto which is 3.90-1. ------- NOT a 2.5v6 estate auto though as these are the 4.22 ones.
BUT IT WAS A LITTLE RUSTY MY 95 M plater so have upgraded to a 2001 MV6 ex cop again and this is to be the new track car.
the only uprated suspension cop cars had was on estates and had higher poundage springs at back due to carrying more equipment.......
Engines are simply standard as is ecu no mods chips or anything.... may be a little quicker down to fact they have basic trim, no sunroof and no goodies so are infact a little lighter.
1 other thing that im still trying to track down is these face lift ex-cop estates 3.2 only mind you .... and mersyside police had 1 off closer ratio gearbox's that allowed the 3.2 estates break the 8 sec barrier 0-60mph.......... but as prob guess they are hard as fook to find.....
hope this helps a little...
thanks :)
oh and forgot all diff's interchangable LSD or NON LSD 2.0/2.2 all way to 3.2.... all that may be needed is a prop coupling if putting 3.0 diff on 2.0 etc etc...... as for problems ... none...... apart from if you fit a lsd diff ..... you may start spending more time in the car!!!!! ha ha ha
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If you want to go drag racing, buy something else!!
however, we can do a chip (£160.00 - not the cheapest, but then we arent some eBay fly by night company who wont offer you any backup etc) which has the latest ecu software, and its written to make sure its correct for you ecu, as the eBay ones arent!
you will not get 300bhp from an Omega V6 engine without ALOT of work and money spending, by which time you could've bought something that would be faster!
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mine ex cop car so what changes have been done to car ive been told uprated cams chip remap is this true that this gets done my meega is very fast after 2500rpm and i think lsd diff as slips well but tips on how to tell if right would help thanks
Generally no changes engine wise over standard. Other mods such as uprated electric etc. LSD makes it lower geared over non LSD...
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Sorry THE BOY i have to dis-agree ............... LSD MAKES NO DIFFERENCE IN GEARING :-[
all manual 3.0 diffs are 3.70-1 ratio as is the LSD one... auto's are 3.90-1
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mine ex cop car so what changes have been done to car ive been told uprated cams chip remap is this true that this gets done my meega is very fast after 2500rpm and i think lsd diff as slips well but tips on how to tell if right would help thanks
LSD- Jack up the rear of the car and rotate one of the wheels, if the opposite wheel turns the same way then you have an LSD ;)
As far as I am aware there were no real performance mods to the old bill cars only that they were a bit lighter(less gadgets) apart from that and the LSD they were pretty much standard.
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the turn the wheel 1 way test doesn't work on omega as its plated ...... :(
works on things like a sierra cosworth due to viscous lsd.... but not a plated omega.