Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Darth Loo-knee on 28 May 2007, 13:13:41
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Have a slight water leak about a litre every 2 1/2 weeks.. So today i am changing the HBV, spark plugs and leads, breathers and throttle body.. But, I have noticed a drop of water around the Oil Cooler Plate...
My questions are, to reseal the plate i obviously need to lift the oil cooler plate up, is the oil cooler attached to the plate by the big nuts that have metal hoses to them, if so am i going to have to take off the oil cooler hoses, and the bridge thing that goes from one head to the other and has 3 hoses in the back and what looks like a temperature sender, to remove the plate as it looks rather tight to get it out????
Does anyone know the part number of the sealer i need to use for this plate?
Is the same sealer used on the Cam Covers as going to try and re seal them while everything is off as i have oil in the spark plug wells.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/OilCooler4.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/OilCooler2.jpg
Also on the Breather Body there is a hose too the very small hole, and one bigger that splits into two.. There is another small hose that fits to the back of the Plenum (third one across from the drivers side) that goes to a different place behind the drivers side cam cover, are you supposed to be able to breath through this??? as it looks like a valve to me..
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/Breather.jpg
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the oil pipes, the two pipes that go to either end of cooler plate are screwed throught plate and into oil cooler.
You could in theory take the plate off and leave the cooler in place but if i was going that far id be tempted to change the cooler and thermostat whilst there....proactivey.
And if you are going this far - remove the oil pipes at the block - dont bend them away from the plate as they are near impossible to get back in.
The temperature sender is a spade connector at the bridge ( at the back f your picture)
:y
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and sealant part number for cooler / plate is 93165267. Needs to go in a gun to squeeze it out.
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The extra breather looks like the charcoal canister purge line, which does indeed connect through a valve, so I wouldn't expect to be able to breathe through it. Good job too, cos you'd get a gob full of petrol fumes ;D
Kevin
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the oil pipes, the two pipes that go to either end of cooler plate are screwed throught plate and into oil cooler.
You could in theory take the plate off and leave the cooler in place but if i was going that far id be tempted to change the cooler and thermostat whilst there....proactivey.
And if you are going this far - remove the oil pipes at the block - dont bend them away from the plate as they are near impossible to get back in.
The temperature sender is a spade connector at the bridge ( at the back f your picture)
:y
I reckon your right about changing the oil cooler whilst i am there, have phoned local vauxhall dealer and they have the sealer in and oil cooler. To remove the oil cooler though this bridge has to be moved out of the way and you say remove the oil pipes from the block, so i don't know where that is so just follow the pipes back is that right??
Also when i come to refit everything back is there seals that need replacing or O rings??
Also i am after the torque settings for the things i have removed....
1/ the black plastic thing with orange seals;D that will go on first with 12 bolts in it?
2/ the inlet manifold
Thanks
Daz:y
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The cooler pipes follow them back to destination, they go into block - the bottom half of the engine. On the 2.6 i replaced the oil cooler on they were either side of the oil cannister / filter
at work so dont have my notes with me.....black thing with orange sounds like "gasket" that the fuel rail sits on...i call it a gasket clearly its not .......leave it with me till i get home and will give you an exact.
Unless someone beats me to it..
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20nm sounds about right in my head.. :-/
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20nm sounds about right in my head.. :-/
lookin in Haynes manual and i think its refering to the balck plastic thing with orange gaskets around it a Flange ;D
says
Flange to cylinderhead bolts 20nm
Lower section:
Retaining bolts 20nm
but can't find what torque the bolts are that go through the Inlet manifold into the Black thing ;D ;D
Cheers Markie
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20nm sounds about right in my head.. :-/
lookin in Haynes manual and i think its refering to the balck plastic thing with orange gaskets around it a Flange ;D
says
Flange to cylinderhead bolts 20nm
Lower section:
Retaining bolts 20nm
but can't find what torque the bolts are that go through the Inlet manifold into the Black thing ;D ;D
Cheers Markie
I have done them up to 20mn in the past (yesterday), thats the way i read it in the destruction manual
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I think they are the lower section retaining bolts (20Nm)
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Taken off the coolent bridge and the seals that are a metal ring with rubber inside well have no rubber..... possibly the slight leak could have been from there... anyway taken the oil cooler plate out and the oil cooler doesn't look to bad see what you think!
Suppose I am trying to save myself £100 when it isn't leaking....
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/OilCooler001.jpg)
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/OilCooler006.jpg)
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/OilCooler007.jpg)
What do you guys think??
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looks okay to me but yes there should be ruber washers / seals on it ( 2 on each side)
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looks okay to me but yes there should be ruber washers / seals on it ( 2 on each side)
So what do you think Markie chance it and refit the oil Cooler using new seals??
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looks okay to me but yes there should be ruber washers / seals on it ( 2 on each side)
So what do you think Markie chance it and refit the oil Cooler using new seals??
thats your call mate depending on time, cash available - if neither are an issue you may as well do it.
Outwith this depends on milage, car history, frequency of coolant changes and correct mix of coolant.
If your confident about the later parameters on your car and your happy with the condition on close inspection ...leave it :-/ But if in doubt...
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Markie,
I went and got a new Oil Cooler this morning, fitted it and built everything else up and no parts left over ;D... ;D
Also re sealed the Cam Covers (the passenger side was a bit awkward) but how long do you have to leave the sealant to go off on both cam covers and oil cooler before starting the car?
Thanks
Daz
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I would leave it over night - Mark DTM advises this...
Thats a lot of work you have been doing :y
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I would leave it over night - Mark DTM advises this...
Thats a lot of work you have been doing :y
Ok tomorrow it is then :y
I think i have been busy too, have done
Oil Cooler (new seals and plate in the kit)
New seals on Oil Unions,
New seals on Coolant Bridge,
New HBV,
New Plug Leads,
New Spark Plugs,
New Aux belt,
Removed/cleaned then re-sealed Cam Covers,
Adiusted Handbrake..
Just topped up with water for the time being just in case, but will pull bottom hose off at weekend I think and refill 50/50 antifreeze.
Daz ;)