Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: nij on 27 June 2007, 22:09:59
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I'v just bought a m-reg 2.0 16v select, manual, when I picked it up 3 days ago it was running fine but then the engine managment light came on and stayed on permanently, the car still started and drove fine for the rest of the day but when I came to it the next morning it just wouldn't fire, I'v checked the fuel is getting through and there is a nice strong spark, I checked all the sensor connectors I could see and sprayed them with wd40, today I tried towing it with my dads tranny van and we done around 3 miles on an open roud trying to bump it and still got nothing but when I turned the ignition off and back on again whilst in second gear it would fire up for around 3-4 revs then die again, I'v spent all day today reading about the paperclip test and tried it with a mate but couldnt make head nor tail of it, which flashes do you count as there seems to be wierd flash inbetween a normal flash, I dunno it totally lost me! just wondered if any one has had the same problem and how they solved it as I'v tried everything to my knolege and it's getting very depressing!! please help!!
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Welcome to the site.
The 2.0l I think gives 4 digit code, so 10,3,4,10 flashes = 0340
Does that make a little more sense?
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not really mate, It was a pain to count as I was unsure which flashes to count, do you start counting as soon as the ignition comes on and dont count the wierd flicker or count the wierd flicker and not the normal flashes? if you know what I mean
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It will be main flashes - I have seen a 'double flicker' but only with engine running (can't do paperclip test on 2.0l with engine running though)
Try it with just main flashes. If unsure, try to video it and post it up....
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Welcome to the site.
The 2.0l I think gives 4 digit code, so 10,3,4,10 flashes = 0340
Does that make a little more sense?
I think this is year dependent as the earlier omega flash 2 digit codes or atleast my dads does.
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Welcome to the site.
The 2.0l I think gives 4 digit code, so 10,3,4,10 flashes = 0340
Does that make a little more sense?
I think this is year dependent as the earlier omega flash 2 digit codes or atleast my dads does.
OK, ta, never flashed a 2.0l, only v6. Nowadays, couldn't be bothered with a paperclip, and plug in a tech2 instead ;)
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I have a video clip of it but does anybody know how to post ??
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I have a video clip of it but does anybody know how to post ??
I think you need to upload it to www.Photobucket.com or http://imageshack.us and from there it should give an URL address if you cut and paste into one of your post it should work.
HTH
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(http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb273/nij_2007/th_Video058.jpg) (http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/bb273/nij_2007/?action=view¤t=Video058.flv)
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I have a video clip of it but does anybody know how to post ??
I think you need to upload it to www.Photobucket.com or http://imageshack.us and from there it should give an URL address if you cut and paste into one of your post it should work.
HTH
nice one mate
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Yeah, see what you mean, thats not right.
You shorted out pins 4 and 6? (also, presumably, it doesn't flash without the paperclip, indicating immobiliser fault?)
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Damn that vid goes fast could be wrong
1st part I got was code 53 Fuel pump relay Voltage low
Looks like it flashes 53 12 12 ...
I think after the 12 12 it flashes 92 Camshaft sensor Incorrect signal
Just trying to make sense of the rest. can anyone confirm
Codes checked here http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm#simtec56
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yeh it was defo 4 and 6, I spent most of the day reading about it to make sure, I have just took off the steering wheel casing and come accross an old snapped vauxhall key insulation taped to what looks like some kind of immobilsor that should be on or connected to the black cap at the back of the ignition, is there any way of bypassing the immobilisor to check?
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yeh it was defo 4 and 6, I spent most of the day reading about it to make sure, I have just took off the steering wheel casing and come accross an old snapped vauxhall key insulation taped to what looks like some kind of immobilsor that should be on or connected to the black cap at the back of the ignition, is there any way of bypassing the immobilisor to check?
It could be the last owner never transferred the internal chip to the new key.
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I'v been onto the last owner who isnt keen in giving me any pointers, the car has full vauxhall service history so I thought trouble free motoring for a while but how wrong was I! only done 23 miles since owning it!
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Is the remote locking Infrared or RF?
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Yeah, see what you mean, thats not right.
You shorted out pins 4 and 6? (also, presumably, it doesn't flash without the paperclip, indicating immobiliser fault?)
if I dont put the paperclip in it just flashes constantly without any flickers
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Is the remote locking Infrared or RF?
no remote just central locking on the key, it has seperate keys for central locking and ignition
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Yeah, see what you mean, thats not right.
You shorted out pins 4 and 6? (also, presumably, it doesn't flash without the paperclip, indicating immobiliser fault?)
if I dont put the paperclip in it just flashes constantly without any flickers
This to me suggests a problem with the immobiliser, I'm assuming it has the Infra red alarm type with the red pimple on the sunroof panel.
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just checked and it does have a red pimple near the interior light, can it be bypassed?
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just checked and it does have a red pimple near the interior light, can it be bypassed?
I know there are ways to bypass them but best not publicised on a forum.
Have you tried to resync the alarm remote at all.
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Yeah, see what you mean, thats not right.
You shorted out pins 4 and 6? (also, presumably, it doesn't flash without the paperclip, indicating immobiliser fault?)
if I dont put the paperclip in it just flashes constantly without any flickers
Thats the engine ECU is immobilised.
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just checked and it does have a red pimple near the interior light, can it be bypassed?
The IR type can be bypassed. Not sure how to do it, but best kept to private messages if anyone does....
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Yeah, see what you mean, thats not right.
You shorted out pins 4 and 6? (also, presumably, it doesn't flash without the paperclip, indicating immobiliser fault?)
if I dont put the paperclip in it just flashes constantly without any flickers
Thats the engine ECU is immobilised.
Not sure if this would help but would disconnecting the battery and reconnecting then doing a an alarm resync solve this.
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Does the IR immobiliser still use a transponder? Don't think it does, but may be wrong?
Nixoro - resync is for remote, not immobiliser.
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Does the IR immobiliser still use a transponder? Don't think it does, but may be wrong?
Nixoro - resync is for remote, not immobiliser.
Ok thats where i'm getting in a muddle.
Would a battery disconnect and reconnect help do you think?
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Does the IR immobiliser still use a transponder? Don't think it does, but may be wrong?
Nixoro - resync is for remote, not immobiliser.
Ok thats where i'm getting in a muddle.
Would a battery disconnect and reconnect help do you think?
Nope.
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I'v had the battery diconected twice now for around 15 mins and its still the same, I'v also tried the on/off 25 times and the on/off 30 times with 5 seconds in between, this is driving me up the wall now
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Does the IR immobiliser still use a transponder? Don't think it does, but may be wrong?
Nixoro - resync is for remote, not immobiliser.
Ok thats where i'm getting in a muddle.
Would a battery disconnect and reconnect help do you think?
Nope.
Just an idea :-[
have you checked to see if any of the fuses have blown i'm sure there is a fuse for the immobiliser unit somewhere, worth checking.
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I'v checked all the fuses under the steering colum and replaced the relays but havnt cheched the relays under the bonnet yet, that will have to be tomorrows job coz its throwin it down now! could the crank sensor stop a car starting?
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The taped up transponder is suspicious and would be where my investigation would start....
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The taped up transponder is suspicious and would be where my investigation would start....
Did you un-tape the transponder from the ignition
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I know what you mean, shame they cant be just "simply" ripped out and threw over next doors garden!
thanks for all your advice tho mate :y
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I didnt touch it I just put it back where I found it so I didnt disturb it incase it wasnt that
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Are there signs of your current key having been opened at any time, wondering whether theres a chip inside or if if the one inside the taped on module has fallen out.
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If there's a chip in both keys, so two keys in range of the immobiliser, it might be luck of the draw which one it picks up when the ignition is turned on. Could be that something has changed and it's now picking up the "wrong" one.
I'd be inclined to remove the chip from the working key and see if the "taped up" one starts it.
Kevin
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it all looks intact to me with no scrapes or signs its been opened, would you recommend untaping the other 1 and having a mess around?
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My dads car immobiliser will only disable if the remote is pointed to the roof pimple have you tried this before turning the key in the ignition, only just thought of this have you tried this already.
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My dads car immobiliser will only disable if the remote is pointed to the roof pimple have you tried this before turning the key in the ignition, only just thought of this have you tried this already.
That was my understanding of the IR types. I'm wondering if someone has changed the ECUs on this one with a later type....
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If there's a chip in both keys, so two keys in range of the immobiliser, it might be luck of the draw which one it picks up when the ignition is turned on. Could be that something has changed and it's now picking up the "wrong" one.
I'd be inclined to remove the chip from the working key and see if the "taped up" one starts it.
Kevin
If I removed the 1 from the key and it wasnt that would it go back in with no problems or would it need to be reset?
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depends what you mean by remote, I only have 2 keys for the car, 1 with a chip and 1 without
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depends what you mean by remote, I only have 2 keys for the car, 1 with a chip and 1 without
By chip, do you mean the remote locking bit, or the transponder chip?
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transponder
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Is there a transponder chip in the key taped up to immobiliser?
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Right....
1) Is there a transponder in the key taped up by the immobiliser?
2) Is there a transponder in the key.
3) Try each one in turn fitted in the key, which one starts the car?
Its not good if two transponders are in close proximity!
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:) GOOD NEWS!! A mate of a mate who works for the AA has just swapped my chips out of the broken key into the working key and it fires first time!
BIG THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP :y
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8-) Result good to know its sorted :y :)
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Now you have it working, do the paperclip test so you know what it should be like, and also check for problems ;)
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:) GOOD NEWS!! A mate of a mate who works for the AA has just swapped my chips out of the broken key into the working key and it fires first time!
BIG THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP :y
Great result :y I've been watching this one with interest. Well done guys :y
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:) GOOD NEWS!! A mate of a mate who works for the AA has just swapped my chips out of the broken key into the working key and it fires first time!
BIG THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP :y
Brilliant news :y