Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: chris b on 29 August 2007, 20:06:29
-
hi chaps manifold still chuffin when cold or cud it be the air pipe that runs on the manifold? eny way what needs 2 cum off 2 get two the god dam thing .has eny one dun this job or had the same symtoms? help me chap :'(
-
what car have you got for starters bud?? 2.0l ??
-
Howdoo, matey. Not too sure of the engine type you have. If you have 5 mins, update your signature on the left with #car/engine/location details. Saves either typing the obvious every time or someone else having to ask. :y
What you got, by the way.... ;D
-
hi chaps av got a 3.0 mv6 man. and the chuffin blowin is cumin from the back of the drivers side bank manifold. :'(
-
hi, i'm not too good with v6 but there plenty of guys here who are............... it'll probs be a bit harder than mine.... lol
-
like who m8 need help?
-
The good news is that you just need to change the gasket. Buy the geninue Vx metal laminated one or it will fail again. Gasket plus new studs, nuts etc. come to around £20 or less.
It's a fiddly job and the exhaust manifold to downpipe studs can be tough to get off.
Your big challenge is the nasty great coolant pipe that is in the way. This has to come off and it bolts into the back of the block.
Headlines (cribbed from a post sometime ago):
Post 98 models should have the non-seize manifold nuts fitted
Drop the front pipe off of the manifold (two bolts accessed from under the car)
Remove the plenum and intake assembly.
Remove the scuttle cover.
Drain the coolant.
Disconnect the main stainless steel coolant pipe that runs around the drivers side head at the rear of the block (two bolts, you need to lean over the engine to reach) and remove it.
Removing the coolant pipe from the block isn't that easy - you need a long E10 socket to get past the oil pipes (and a lot of patience).
Remove the manifold heat shields. There is an extra e10 bolt on the inside of the manifold at the rear – you may find that these will shear off!!!
You also need to remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold. The lower heat shield usually comes off with ease (only 2 or 3 E10's)
Unbolt the manifold.
Manifold nuts are locking nuts - when new they are oval at the ends - if you get new ones make sure they give you 13mm nuts - 2.6 & 3.2 went to 10mm nuts not as good.
A list of parts are below, you may not need all of them:
Part no. Price
Exhaust downpipe nuts M10 x 4 90570845 approx £1.50 each (have helicoil insert)
Manifold gasket 24416110 £5.91
Manifold nuts x 7 11082413 £0.26 each
Manifold studs x 7 90106924 £0.45 each
Coolant pipe O-ring 9128362 £1.46
Front pipe gasket 90499289 £4.55 each (rip off)
SAI gaskets x 2 90467427 £0.40 each
Good luck
-
cheers m8 your a star. is it most of the tme the gasket then not a crack`d manifold?
-
hi there bud, as far as i'm aware cracked manifold is only common on 2.0l i.e as mine was. but not common on v6's. again somebody else who knows v6's better than me will confirm
-
hi mate......my v6 blowed at the back of the same bank......yes its more than likely the gasket.....just done mine and now runs quiet again... a real fiddly awkward job to do tho mate....!
Are you anywhere near Derby??
Where dya live matey?
monza
-
burton on trent m8 small would. you fancy doin a nother lol?
-
hi there bud, as far as i'm aware cracked manifold is only common on 2.0l i.e as mine was. but not common on v6's. again somebody else who knows v6's better than me will confirm
On v6, more likely to be gasket than manifold itself.
-
Jason is right in what he's said above...
The only think I would add, is when removing the rear coolant transfer pipe, an E10 torx spanner (or sometimes stubby 8mm ring spanner) works wonders on one of the awkward bolts, the other one you can get a normal E10 socket on.
-
To make the coolant pipe removal much easier, disconnect and remove the cooling pipes and bypass valve assembly.
You can then get a ratchet, short extension and torx socker in with ease, makes it MUCH easier. For the bolt on the passenger side of the coolant pipe, dont be afraid to nudge the oil cooler pipe slightly to get it out of the way.
Its also worth checking the manifold face for flatness once removed, it can be flatened using a belt sander or large piece of coarse emery and flat surface if required
-
I got to the torx bolts with a socket, I think the oil cooler pipes just gave me enough clearance.
-
The symptoms were a sort of metallic farty, exhaust blowing type sound that I couldn't find. Much worse when the engine was cold and best heard with the windows open especially in a confined area, like between two buildings.
I couldn't actually find the blow until the manifold came off. Then you could see where the gasket had failed at the back near the downpipe. I've seen a few pictures now and they all fail in the same place.
Before you tackle it - check that the downpipe gasket hasn't gone. Do this with a cold engine. Get under the car and get your hands round the joint then get someone else to start the car. You've only got a few seconds before the pipe gets red hot.
Took me a whole day to do the job carefully including cleaning up the head and manifold with wet and dry where they had pitted a bit.
I think you could perhaps do it in 3 hours with experience.
-
cheers chaps you have all been very helpfull and i am very thankful 4 all of you ans. just need some 1 2 do the job now as i think al be out of my depth. does eny one wont a go al pay the goin rate? :-/
-
Hi chris ...did u get my email reply?
monza