Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: star_whites on 15 September 2007, 13:41:53
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Hey All
Just wondering if non genuine plug leads can cause power issues. The guy at Vaux has told me that a top of the range Bosch set is not as good as the originals as they can cause power issues, i.e. not getting enough power to plugs. Does anyone know if this is true as I have power issues with my 2.0 Auto. I changed the plugs cause the mechanic fitted the wrong ones but not the leads??
I ask cause she drives like she has insufficient power going too the. i.e. sets off then struggles when u accelerate. Cleaned all breathers, pipes and throttle housing and fitted new gaskets to no improvement.
Ive also noticed that when u are driving along it appears to jump out of third/fourth really quickly at about 2000/2500 revs which obviously makes her drag her feet. Do u think this is related??
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Leads can make a difference, but decent bosch should be fine.
Has it always been like this? Bear in mind, a big heavy estate is a lot to pull with a small 2l engine, esp with and auto...
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No, when I first bought the car it was like a rocket, especially in Sport Mode, but the head gasket went. Was quite some time ago and had lots of issues. (Dodgy mechanic, see old posts).
Have been slowly (as finances were available) been replacing and checking things over. New exhaust, plugs, oil, filter, fuel filter, various gaskets, pressure test, timing check. All to no avail, but she still has a power issue. It was just last night when it dawned on me the dodgy mechanic also replaced the leads. When he did the work he fitted the wrong grade plugs which made it grumpy but I chaanged them for a set of Bosch Super4s and it improved no end, but is still really sluggish.
One thing that made me think plugs was that u can set off and its sluggish and then all of a sudden it springs to life and is off like s*** off a shovel, but it struggles no matter what when it reached 60ish until it reaches 80 then it starts to improve again????
Just wondering to start is if bosch leads are as good as an original set or should I spend that little extra and get the originals???
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Have you carried out a paperclip test?????? New Bosch leads will be fine.
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Check both multirams are working as well...
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Check both multirams are working as well...
On a 2.0 :-/
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Check both multirams are working as well...
On a 2.0 :-/
Good point, well presented :-[
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No, when I first bought the car it was like a rocket, especially in Sport Mode, but the head gasket went. Was quite some time ago and had lots of issues. (Dodgy mechanic, see old posts).
Have been slowly (as finances were available) been replacing and checking things over. New exhaust, plugs, oil, filter, fuel filter, various gaskets, pressure test, timing check. All to no avail, but she still has a power issue. It was just last night when it dawned on me the dodgy mechanic also replaced the leads. When he did the work he fitted the wrong grade plugs which made it grumpy but I chaanged them for a set of Bosch Super4s and it improved no end, but is still really sluggish.
One thing that made me think plugs was that u can set off and its sluggish and then all of a sudden it springs to life and is off like s*** off a shovel, but it struggles no matter what when it reached 60ish until it reaches 80 then it starts to improve again????
Just wondering to start is if bosch leads are as good as an original set or should I spend that little extra and get the originals???
When the head gasket was replaced did the cam belt kit get replaced as well? (Belt, and tensoiners). Were they fitted correctly? Was a cam locking tool used? If this is not done properly and set correctly then the belt could be out by a couple of teeth and cause sluggishness when pulling away. If you think the mechanic is untrustworthy then don't use him again. Get and recheck the cam belt timing is correct first. Leads wise bosch leads are fine to use, VX are proberly try to get a sale out of you. Do the paper clip test to see if there are any issues said previously then post up results if any.
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The mechanic is definatly a no no from now on, completly ripped me off.
Will go get a set of leads mid week and try them, will do the paperclip test in a bit once ive finnished laying concrete (Just having a break lol). I didnt think that it would store fault codes without the light being on permaently?? but ive been wrong before.
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It does store fault codes, if a fault exists but does not always light the EML.
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I know how to do the paperclip test, but is there a way of clearing the stored codes without having to pay for it done???
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I know how to do the paperclip test, but is there a way of clearing the stored codes without having to pay for it done???
Not really.
Some completely clear after 20 'clean starts', some never clear unless specifically cleared with a reader, and some disappear from paperclip test, but remain in ecu for readers...
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Have done paperclip test, however no fault codes are stored so none the wiser. One thing I did notice whilst checking oil and listening to engine is that there is a definate ticking/clicking noise coming from around injection manifold/throttle housing area. Its definatly not the tappets and I know I reseatted the throttle housing properly and with new seals so do you think there may be an air leak on the injection manifold and would this cause a power loss??????