Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: garyv6 on 21 October 2007, 18:32:04
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hello all! when my omega is idleing the engine has a loud tapping sound and the same when i drive her its like a click click click tappety sound if you know what i mean and it gets louder and faster as i drive. could this be a valve problem i wonder? its a 2.5 v6 unit. any ideas please. cheers gary.....
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Hi Gary
Is the noise permanent or does it clear when the engine gets warmer?
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its permanant mate. i think it possibly gets louder as she gets hotter.
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dont know if its the same problem i had recently but it could be waterpump quite noisey when it goes.....
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As said, you first need to check whether or not it's an ancilliary, such as a pump making a noise
If it IS a lifter (no such thing as tappets on this engine), I would do an oil and filter change with Vauxhall 10/40 semi synthetic, and see how it goes. Do a few changes if the oil is dirty, maybe 200 miles apart until the oil stays clean.
Failing that, out with the lifters!!
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the noise seems to be coming from the top of the engine. it is running hot too. when i get stuck in traffic the stat goes near 100 and when i drive it goes back down to 90 or a little above. its the first omega ive owned so ive got a lot to learn about this v6 unit.
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It could be a very noisey fuel injector, what fuel do you use? i did use the cheaper brands of petrol but after several tank fulls of bp the injectors have quitetend down lot as the branded fuel has detergent in it. :y
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Also as james has said try changing the oil as old oil will thin down as the motor gets hot. Fresh clean oil will help softn the noise from the lifters as well. :y
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thanks for the feedback lads! i will try a service and engine flush and see what happens! watch this space! cheers gary
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Need to check why its getting to 100C - thats way too hot...
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any ideas why it could be running hot like this?
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Does it get to 100 or near and then the fan cuts in to bring it back to 95. Have you got any coolant leaks, esp the coolant bottle as they crack around the filler cap or signs of coolant loss.?
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no coolant loss and ive just put a new rad on it and fresh coolant! not sure when the fan cuts in but when i drive it drops to normal very quickly! while im on this subject, the rad i put on was a little different to the original on the car. it was basically identical but the one i put on had two gold pipes on it and the old one didnt so i just joined the pipes together with a rubber hose! im guessing this rad was off a higher spec model (eg, duel climate) could this be the problem maybe?
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no coolant loss and ive just put a new rad on it and fresh coolant! not sure when the fan cuts in but when i drive it drops to normal very quickly! while im on this subject, the rad i put on was a little different to the original on the car. it was basically identical but the one i put on had two gold pipes on it and the old one didnt so i just joined the pipes together with a rubber hose! im guessing this rad was off a higher spec model (eg, duel climate) could this be the problem maybe?
The new one is off an auto, thats all, and that is the gearbox cooler bit.
Are the low speed fans kicking in just about midpoint on gauge?
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mine is an auto, the rad i took off didnt have the pipes? when i fitted the rad i let the car idle to temp and all three fans cut in at just below 100 i think!
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mine is an auto, the rad i took off didnt have the pipes? when i fitted the rad i let the car idle to temp and all three fans cut in at just below 100 i think!
2 pipes connecting drivers side of rad? :o
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yes! they are metal, gold in color with rubber hoses on the end which were meant to connect somewhere but not on my model???
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yes! they are metal, gold in color with rubber hoses on the end which were meant to connect somewhere but not on my model???
All autos have oil coolers built in rad...
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i wonder what these pipes are for then? as the original rad didnt have them? maybe this is a manual rad?
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i wonder what these pipes are for then? as the original rad didnt have them? maybe this is a manual rad?
Follow the oil cooler pipes from the box, see where they go...
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i will do in the morning! if i remember correctly there is some pipes where they could connect on the car but they are connected together with a metal pipe (the pipe is silver metal in a U shape) at the end of the pipes! does that make sense? wish i could take some photos now.
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i will do in the morning! if i remember correctly there is some pipes where they could connect on the car but they are connected together with a metal pipe (the pipe is silver metal in a U shape) at the end of the pipes! does that make sense? wish i could take some photos now.
Thats what I'm afraid of...
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this is starting to sound like a nightmare now :'( so if these are the pipes from the box that are connected with the silver U bend (it looks factory fitted though) then they need to be fitted to the gold pipes on the rad? if this is the case, then the rad i took off must have been the wrong rad and the box is therefore not getting cooled??? arhhhhhhh >:( :( :-/ god knows what the previous owner has been doing with the car!!!
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this is starting to sound like a nightmare now :'( so if these are the pipes from the box that are connected with the silver U bend (it looks factory fitted though) then they need to be fitted to the gold pipes on the rad? if this is the case, then the rad i took off must have been the wrong rad and the box is therefore not getting cooled??? arhhhhhhh >:( :( :-/ god knows what the previous owner has been doing with the car!!!
Not sure what the implications are of running without an auto cooler. May be OK, unless in hot temps, or towing etc... :-/
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Methinks a gearbox oil "refresh" might be a good idea before the rad is properly connected, that way more "old" fluid (percentage wise) will be removed, and then top up with all new fluid once rad is connected properly. This may give the box a chance if the old fluid has got overhot
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i will do in the morning! if i remember correctly there is some pipes where they could connect on the car but they are connected together with a metal pipe (the pipe is silver metal in a U shape) at the end of the pipes! does that make sense? wish i could take some photos now.
Thats what I'm afraid of...
Oh lord... looks like someone has bypassed the gearbox oil cooler? :-X
The gearbox may not be in great condition!
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thanks lads will get to the bottom of this tomorrow and will continue this thread with the outcome! one last thing, the gold pipes on the rad which i connected with the tube get quite hot and after ive been stuck in traffic for a while then when i park up you can feel and smell the heat coming from under the car when i get out (maybe the box burning) this defo needs sorting as soon as i think!!
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Yes it does, do an ATF change and get the pipes connected properly, you may be OK, but the life of the box may be shortened :(
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hello! ive had a good look today and it looks like these pipes some t?at has bypassed needs to be fitted to the rad, i cant see the gearbox but they are defo heading towards it. someone must have put a manual rad on before????i dont know which pipe to fit where? the two pipes run side by side so do i connect the one closest to the engine on the top pipe on the rad or the bottom? cheers
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You will prob find that when the correct rad is on the car the pipes will be just the right length to fit in certain holes on the rad.. If not then someone with an auto will i am sure post some pics. :y
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ive just removed the bypass pipe from the pipes that lead to the gearbox and theres a bit of oil coming out(light brown oil) should i connect these pipes to the rad even though theres a little oil coming out?
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The oil in the pipes should be a red ish colour, if it is brown then i would almost certainly have to change the auto box fluid and filter, as the fluid has been over heated and good for nowt now. also change the sump gaskets, refil with dex3 tranny fluid. :o
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As I said before .. if you change the ATF BEFORE connecting to the rad you will change a higher percentage of the ATF ... as you can't drain what you put in the rad easily..
:(
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Yes, its atf (oil) that flows through that part of rad. The oil cooler is in the coldest part of rad, and the cooler water in that part of the rad cools the atf..
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And litle brown atf is not a good sign. It should be the colour of red wine.
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ok at last! i didnt know that oil ran through the rad to cool i thought coolant ran through the box (dont laugh) so the pipes did need to go on the rad after all so some tit has put the wrong rad on before!. the oil was red after i let some flow out so ive connected it all up and the box seems better now when i drive. i will change the box oil at the weekend just to make sure. can anyone tell me how to change the oil and filter on the box? im very good with cars if im told how to do it. thanks for all your help folks :y
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Have a look in the how too section, i think there is a guide in there. It is not the easyiest of jobs as there is no dip stick to tell you the level. The filters and gaskets are not that cheap so ask for a discount at the vx dealer when you buy the dex3 and parts. Keep us informed as to how it goes, and remember , any probs just ask. :y
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for the filters & gaskets go here ::
http://www.jpat.co.uk
much cheaper than VX , arrived within 4 days of ordering too
:)
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GARY, please update your profile with a few more details, it will help us to help you as we will know what car you have. Regards Gary. :y
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I have experienced a similar problem with a loud tapping coming from top of engine.
The car had just been purchased, then sat idle for 2 wks, noise appeared, I checked the oil and it wasnt too bad, I booked a garage to do a service the next day, but a couple of quick, high RPM blasts stopped the noise, I changed all fuids the next day and still no tapping.
Incidentally, with the car having been sat for a few months off road, the tapping has started again. MOT this Friday, It will pass! when it is fully taxed and mot'd it will have a full engine flush with fresh top notch oil.
Hopefully this should cure it.
This might work for you, it might not, but there are more qualified and experienced chaps on here.
Just stating my experience and opinion.
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for the filters & gaskets go here ::
http://www.jpat.co.uk
much cheaper than VX , arrived within 4 days of ordering too
:)
I paid about £110 from the dealers for the filter and two gaskets but if you join the Autobahnstormers (which is worthwhile for the trade card) you can get the filter and gaskets for £30 plus P+P. I wish I had read the mag before ordering my parts :-[