Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: chrisdb on 10 December 2007, 19:01:33
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Hi
Been doing the cambelt. Locked everthing down and got the old belt off OK. The new belt was very hard to get on - took a couple of hours. New belt is now on but the cam locking pins are stuck solid. What is the correct way to get them free? Should I turn the crankshaf slightly? I have tried adjusting the tensioners but no joy. They are way off the alignment shown on the DVD but if I set them as shown I get a lot of slack on the belt.
Cheers
Chris
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Watch the dvd carefully..........
I think that you have a tensioner to adjust the cams slightly and another lower tensioner to take up the belt slack, you have to toy between the two to get it just right.
Some more knowledgeable people will be alog soon to help ;)
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Just to confirm, are BOTH camlocks stuck (ie both banks)?
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Yes, both camlocks were stuck, but now there is an update...
I removed the belt to start again. Tapped the camlocks free. Then my dad suggested swapping the camlocks because my colours were the oppsite of the video (they would not fit the other way). Anyway the No.1 cam moved. I managed to move it back after several attemps, but it is not aligned right, and I decided to stop digging :-[
Can anyone fix this? I am in Chesterfield and would be happy to pay labour and travel costs. My dad is going home tomorrow thank god! If anyone can fix it but has to work, I will even be happy to pay what they would otherwise get if they are able to take the day off.
Thanks
Chris
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Yes, both camlocks were stuck, but now there is an update...
I removed the belt to start again. Tapped the camlocks free. Then my dad suggested swapping the camlocks because my colours were the oppsite of the video (they would not fit the other way). Anyway the No.1 cam moved. I managed to move it back after several attemps, but it is not aligned right, and I decided to stop digging :-[
Can anyone fix this? I am in Chesterfield and would be happy to pay labour and travel costs. My dad is going home tomorrow thank god! If anyone can fix it but has to work, I will even be happy to pay what they would otherwise get if they are able to take the day off.
Thanks
Chris
Firstly, don't panic.
You can sort this yourself. Get the cams all locked in right place, crank at TDC, and start again slowly.
If you really are stuck, then I can possibly help, but not for at least a week and a bit.
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Yes, both camlocks were stuck, but now there is an update...
I removed the belt to start again. Tapped the camlocks free. Then my dad suggested swapping the camlocks because my colours were the oppsite of the video (they would not fit the other way). Anyway the No.1 cam moved. I managed to move it back after several attemps, but it is not aligned right, and I decided to stop digging :-[
Can anyone fix this? I am in Chesterfield and would be happy to pay labour and travel costs. My dad is going home tomorrow thank god! If anyone can fix it but has to work, I will even be happy to pay what they would otherwise get if they are able to take the day off.
Thanks
Chris
Firstly, don't panic.
You can sort this yourself. Get the cams all locked in right place, crank at TDC, and start again slowly.
If you really are stuck, then I can possibly help, but not for at least a week and a bit.
Thanks, I'll have a go in the morning and let you know how it goes.
Cheers
Chris
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Yes, both camlocks were stuck, but now there is an update...
I removed the belt to start again. Tapped the camlocks free. Then my dad suggested swapping the camlocks because my colours were the oppsite of the video (they would not fit the other way). Anyway the No.1 cam moved. I managed to move it back after several attemps, but it is not aligned right, and I decided to stop digging :-[
Can anyone fix this? I am in Chesterfield and would be happy to pay labour and travel costs. My dad is going home tomorrow thank god! If anyone can fix it but has to work, I will even be happy to pay what they would otherwise get if they are able to take the day off.
Thanks
Chris
Firstly, don't panic.
You can sort this yourself. Get the cams all locked in right place, crank at TDC, and start again slowly.
If you really are stuck, then I can possibly help, but not for at least a week and a bit.
Thanks, I'll have a go in the morning and let you know how it goes.
Cheers
Chris
No problemo..... :)
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Morning. I've had a better time this morning. I realigned the camshafts with the timing marks (crank shaft tool was in place). The cambelt went on much easier this time and tension was good all round the belt. Followed the dvd instructions and rotated the engine. The timing was slightly out on both banks, but I managed to adjust them with no problems.
BUT. After rotating the engine again, banks 3/4 are about 1/16th forward of the timing gauge tool, and banks 1/2 are spot on, however, turning the lower adustment no longer makes any difference - the camshafts do not move at all... And ideas what to do now?
Thanks
Chris
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Yup....rotate the lower idler until it points to 3 Oclock and the upper until it points to 12 Oclock.
Turn the engine by hand again and then reset the timing.
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Thanks Mark. The site has been down for a while so I was not able to read your post. Anyway, I persevered and it is timed up spot on now. Just finished putting on the aux belt and now torquing the pulleys. Fingers crossed! I guess I wont know if it works until I start it :-/
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Well done Chris. It's great that you've had a good result. As loads of people will tell you, the job always looks easier the next morning not that I'd know anything about that. :-[
:y
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Well done Chris. It's great that you've had a good result. As loads of people will tell you, the job always looks easier the next morning not that I'd know anything about that. :-[
:y
Cheers mate! I've jut got it all back together now. No screws were left over and I can't see anything I've missed. Going to have a cup of tea, fill up water + antifreeze, and give her a try. If you don't hear from me again it's all gone horribly wrong and I've committed suicide ;)
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The latest update. Just tried to start the car and it ran for a coupkle of seconds, sounding rough then cuts out. Tried this twice and the same thing. I'm scared to try again, so I think I'm now well and truly out of my depth. :'(
My earlier off still stands, although it possibly might be a bigger job than just the timing belt? James, if you're still interested then let me know. I've hired a car so I can wait a couple of weeks if need be.
Thanks everyone for you help and comments. The dvd was a fantastic help and I would reccommend it. I looked up the procedure in the Haynes manual and it made no sense to me at all!
Thanks
Chris
(Off for a big whisky)
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I'll check availability and drop you a PM tomorrow...
Sorry to hear this. I do hope it's something silly - are all your connectors home?
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Chris,
Are there any metal to metal noises? Have you re-connected all wires? breathers?
As James says, might be somthing silly... i've been there, done that, got the sticker! Hence my name The Cambelt Kid! :y
My problem turned out to be no or little oil in the lifters which made my 2.6 sound like a bag of shi*e for the first few mins! I completely filled my pants up to the brim with **** during the first few moments! :'( All is ok now!
My advice - take your time, check check and triple check all items you have disturbed!
Also just thinking about it - does your car have a IAC? Is this back in it's place?
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Thanks guys. I've just driven down to Swindon in my hire car so I had quite a while to think over everything I did. I do remember now that I have to torqued the plenum - it is only slightly tightened. Also, I'm begining to wonder if I torqued the central cambelt adjuster. I know I did tighten it though.
There were no metal sounding noises. The last time the engine sounded like this was when I forgot to connect the breather pipe that goes from the brake server to the plenum - but that time the engine did run.
I had trouble getting the ram air box in at the from and there were two thin vacuum pipes that I had to connect. I think I got them the right was round because the pipes were not stretched, but I should have tried them both ways.
Thinking back, I remember checking every hose and cable that I could see and alll seemed OK.
I'm not going to be back home now until Thursday night. If I work from home on Friday I will have a little while to look at it again, otherwise it is going to be the weekend.
I really appreciate your help guys.
Cheers
Chris
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Since your plenum came off, did you remember to remove the kitchen roll from the intakes? ;)
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Since your plenum came off, did you remember to remove the kitchen roll from the intakes? ;)
Yes I did :D
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Did you remove the fuel rail when you had the plenum off? If so, may take a short while to pressurise again..
Also did you remove HT leads? If so, back in the correct order (and not dislodged from the DIS pack at the back?)
If you changed plugs and any oil dribbled into the cylinders this would also cause rough running (and smoke out of the back) for a while.
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Did you remove the fuel rail when you had the plenum off? If so, may take a short while to pressurise again..
Also did you remove HT leads? If so, back in the correct order (and not dislodged from the DIS pack at the back?)
If you changed plugs and any oil dribbled into the cylinders this would also cause rough running (and smoke out of the back) for a while.
I removed all the pipes from the plenum so it could be the pressurisation as you suggest. I did not touch the ht leads or spark plugs.
I did think about the fuel, but on the dvd the car starts first time even though they disconnected the fuel line, and as I've been so nervous in case I did it wrong I did not want to try starting it too many times. Do you think it's worth giving it a try again to let the pressure build up?
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Update : The car is not dead ;D
I decided to be braver and try to start the car again this morning. The plenum was loose so I tightend it and check all other hoses, pipes and wire were attached.
The car starts up and there are no metalic noises, but the engine revs up on its own to about 1500rpm. It does sound rough - as if spark plugs gone, and it starts to backfire slightly then stalls. Each time, all this happens in about 3 seconds.
Does it sound like I've screwed up the timing? I was really careful to align all the marks correctly...
Cheers
Chris
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Sounds to me like the plenum is not seated or an O ring is missing.
I assume all the vac pipes are connected ok i.e. the brake servo pipe etc....
It realy sounds like an air leak
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It sounds to me like you've got an air leak.
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Thanks Mark, I'll take the plenum off and check. I'm working from home today so I can do this at lunchtime and let you know. :y
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Did you replace all the plenum O-rings ?? if so .. did you remove ALL the old ones ?? First time I did mine I managed to leave one old one in.. but also put a new one on top .. this made the whole thing unseated until I noticed .. ( by counting the old rings and wondering why I was one short ... :( )
Guide to plenum removal/refit is here ...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1159298765
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Did you replace all the plenum O-rings ?? if so .. did you remove ALL the old ones ?? First time I did mine I managed to leave one old one in.. but also put a new one on top .. this made the whole thing unseated until I noticed .. ( by counting the old rings and wondering why I was one short ... :( )
Guide to plenum removal/refit is here ...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1159298765
No, I did not change the O-rings, but I think I'll go and get some new ones. I have not looked yet, but it is possible thatone ore more got dislodged and is so will probably be damaged now.
When I was re-assemblung everything, I fitted the plenum, and then started putting back the air intake box - then I thought I had forgotten something so took the plenum off again, and I was not so careful putting it back the second time...
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Did you replace all the plenum O-rings ?? if so .. did you remove ALL the old ones ?? First time I did mine I managed to leave one old one in.. but also put a new one on top .. this made the whole thing unseated until I noticed .. ( by counting the old rings and wondering why I was one short ... :( )
Guide to plenum removal/refit is here ...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1159298765
No, I did not change the O-rings, but I think I'll go and get some new ones. I have not looked yet, but it is possible thatone ore more got dislodged and is so will probably be damaged now.
When I was re-assemblung everything, I fitted the plenum, and then started putting back the air intake box - then I thought I had forgotten something so took the plenum off again, and I was not so careful putting it back the second time...
I have never needed to replace any of the Orings, they are generaly always fine....
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Did you replace all the plenum O-rings ?? if so .. did you remove ALL the old ones ?? First time I did mine I managed to leave one old one in.. but also put a new one on top .. this made the whole thing unseated until I noticed .. ( by counting the old rings and wondering why I was one short ... :( )
Guide to plenum removal/refit is here ...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1159298765
No, I did not change the O-rings, but I think I'll go and get some new ones. I have not looked yet, but it is possible thatone ore more got dislodged and is so will probably be damaged now.
When I was re-assemblung everything, I fitted the plenum, and then started putting back the air intake box - then I thought I had forgotten something so took the plenum off again, and I was not so careful putting it back the second time...
I have never needed to replace any of the Orings, they are generaly always fine....
I owe you a beer [smiley=beer.gif]
was planning to change them all ;)
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Did you replace all the plenum O-rings ?? if so .. did you remove ALL the old ones ?? First time I did mine I managed to leave one old one in.. but also put a new one on top .. this made the whole thing unseated until I noticed .. ( by counting the old rings and wondering why I was one short ... :( )
Guide to plenum removal/refit is here ...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1159298765
No, I did not change the O-rings, but I think I'll go and get some new ones. I have not looked yet, but it is possible thatone ore more got dislodged and is so will probably be damaged now.
When I was re-assemblung everything, I fitted the plenum, and then started putting back the air intake box - then I thought I had forgotten something so took the plenum off again, and I was not so careful putting it back the second time...
I have never needed to replace any of the Orings, they are generaly always fine....
That's the difference between you and me .... you know what you are doing !! me .. I just read the guides, print them, and then try and follow them, whilst always hoping and praying at the same time !! :)
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Lol....they are not generaly a delaer stocked item anyway.
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Thanks for all your help guys, you are BRILLIANT. I had to wait till I finished work but took off the plenum and found one of the rubber seals had moved. Put it all back carefully and it started first time. Engine feels like a dream now. The timing with the old belt was off by about 3mm on one bank so I made sure i set it was spot on and it has really made a difference.
The dvd is a fantastic aid and I would reccommend it to anyone. Thanks to Marks commentry, explaining other things on the way, I discovered that I need a new non-return value too - I can't wait to see the difference that will make.
Cheers guys
Chris
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So, from the depths of despair to the peak of elation in 4 days. Good here isn't it? :y
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Nice here, init?? :D :y
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well done chris
great help and perserverance pays divedens :y
yes i am glad this forum exists well done all :y :y
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The one way valve wont amke any difference to the engines running but, it will stop the Plastic valve mounted on the radiator melting if the exhaust starts to fail and block!
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The one way valve wont amke any difference to the engines running but, it will stop the Plastic valve mounted on the radiator melting if the exhaust starts to fail and block!
Got an email quote from LVM for £57 so I might go for this one.
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Sounds expensive....you could always block it off and remove the air injection....its not realy required.
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Everything was fine. Car sounds beautiful and runs well but then, key is stuck in the ignition now - it won't turn all the way back so I can't remove it. Anyway now the EML light is on and stays on. I did the paperclip test and I get 16 - Knock Sensor 1... Anymore ideas?
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Everything was fine. Car sounds beautiful and runs well but then, key is stuck in the ignition now - it won't turn all the way back so I can't remove it. Anyway now the EML light is on and stays on. I did the paperclip test and I get 16 - Knock Sensor 1... Anymore ideas?
You haven't left it in gear have you???
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Ignition key stuck. I assume this is an auto? If it's anything like mine, take it back out of park, then put it back in (and wiggle the gear selector side to side in Park) then the key should come out fine.
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Ignition key stuck. I assume this is an auto? If it's anything like mine, take it back out of park, then put it back in (and wiggle the gear selector side to side in Park) then the key should come out fine.
Thank you. It did not work as for you, but it did free the key when I put it into neutral. So is this the keylock or the gearbox switch that is faulty?
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Hi,
I would put my money on the gearbox switch, as I have just tried mine, and I cannot take the key out in any other postion than Park. I remember reading something about reseting the selector, and being able to remove a cover near the PRND321 plate. It may be that it has worked loose.