Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Paul on 25 December 2007, 08:47:09
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So lets start from the beginning..
Biggest problem is, that my Elite is very jumpy when cold (cold?).. It jums doesnt matter at what speed, its like driving on a small wodden sticks / flat tyre etc.. Must admit, that there is small hole in backbox (its not loud). But must admit, that have got that problem not really when car is cold.. After 15 mins drive engine have got temp around 95'C, which I believe is normal. But car is still jumpy. Doesnt matter are you driving with constant speed or accelerating. Its OK only on neutral, but you can feel it as well, and again as well when stop. There is loose of power as well. Revs seems to be OK (not jumpy). No EML on, no errors at all.
After 40 miles last night and about 45 mins everything was OK (read: great as should be!). And again. Car cooled down, and this morning again the same..
That is first problem, a and Im hoping you will help me here!
Second problem - aircon (Dual Climate) - it blows only hot, doesnt matter is it switched on or off. Its winter, so Im not really bothered, but.. ;D Prefer to know.. Been advised, that it needs only re-gassing...
And last questionsmall problem with my stereo, but please check ICE section.
Thanks in advance for all your help Guys (and Gals)! :D :)
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from all my family to all OOF Members and all their families!! :exclamation
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Replace the cold start switch mate, sounds to me like the engine doesent know it's own temp ?
Or cud be a vac hose split causeing a air leak...
As for the climate control, try holding the off and auto button at the same time for 5 seconds, that resets it, might be a long shot but cud be worth a pop...
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Thanks, just one more quickie - have got small crack (2in) in right top corner -
http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_830.htm
Will it affect MoT in the future?
Re aircon - should I do it on ignition on or off?
Re engine - where is that switch? Noticed (never seen it uin my previous Omegas (but temp seems to read OK) that after I will start my engine gauge is going down from top (red) to the current temp instead from bottom line (cold).. Which hoses should I check? If it is splitted hose, why it seems to be OK when car is (more than..) warmed up?
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Do air con with ignition switched on..
The temp switch is not the same one that does ur guage, its for the engine management system to tell ecu of temp...
Its located beneath the inlet system and joins the 2 cylinder banks together i think its got 3 switches in it in total but not exact sure which one is which..
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As unfortunately Im not mechanicaly minded.. How to get access to that switch? Is it DIY job?
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Ho ho ho, just one more xmas question! :)
My Cruise is not working - nothing happend after I will press any of these buttons. Any ideas? Or am I doing something wrong? ::)
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I think he is referring to the CTS - coolant temp sensor. This is located on the coolant bridge, at the back of the engine, in the V.
Before replacing or condemning any components, you need to diagnose the fault with a bit more clarity and direction.
The first step is to read if there are any fault codes stored in your ECU.
You can do this with a paperclip on most models and count the flashes - see maintenance guides "paperclip test".
Also, pull out a plug lead on each side of the engine, and check for oil in the plug well that may have damaged the plug leads. This is caused by leaking cam cover gaskets, and is common. This could well cause a misfire, and going by your description of the car being "juddery" this could tie in..
Go and check those things out, and also a visual check in the engine bay that all vacc hoses etc are seated and all electrical connections appear secure.
When you have done that, post up the results and we will take things further...
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I'd second exactly what James said.
Read the fault codes then look for oil in the plug wells.
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As explained before, no em faults in ecu at all. Will check plugs later as weather is terrible (rain instead of snow) :)
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As explained before, no em faults in ecu at all.
Have you actually flashed out the codes? It can still store codes even if the EML is not on.
If the issue is a misfire is on the HT side, then on a drive by cable engine such as yours it will not flag a fault code.
Let us know what you find in the plug wells. But personally I think the coolant temp sensor is barking up the wrong tree. Even if there was no / bad signal from the CTS, the engine can still run without a misfire, in closed loop mode.
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Right, checked codes - have got 12, 144 and 145. I reckon it is not OK?
Short video:
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/7madonvaux/Omega/th_87012919.jpg) (http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/7madonvaux/Omega/?action=view¤t=87012919.flv)
And this is how car runs on cold (please note that on 2nd gear and 3rd Ive got my feet on the ground..
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/7madonvaux/Omega/th_f3d8235d.jpg) (http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/7madonvaux/Omega/?action=view¤t=f3d8235d.flv)
Didnt managed to check spark plugs - how to get there?
Checked for any leaks (air / oil) and cant see any at all.
One and only 'oily' place is on a last pic. Oil is clean, no water in oil and no oil in water. No maya as well.
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/7madonvaux/Omega/e9ee6ab6.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/7madonvaux/Omega/5e73c278.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/7madonvaux/Omega/c8a7b8aa.jpg)
Mileage is 120k
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Anyone? :-? :(
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You don't need to take plugs out (yet) - just pull a lead off each bank, and look for oil in the wells...
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Codes 144/145 are immobilisor related, and unlikely to be a cause for concern.
Code 12 is the start of diagnosis - no cause for concern at all
So there are no tell tale codes
The "shaking" of the engine you describe does sound like a misfire, I'm prepared to bet it's DIS, leads, or plugs.
The first thing to try is to remove a lead from each bank (not a plug yet, just a lead) and look for oil IN the plug wells.
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Thanks, but where are they located in X30XE? Can anyone point me in right direction?
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Look in your first pic
The lead with the red thing on is plug lead no 1 - pull one of those up. And same for other side. Look in the holes for oil. this is essential.
In one of your later pics it looks oily in the camcover area, which would support my theory... I bet one of the gaskets has let go and destroyed a plug lead(s).
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12 isnt listed, but i think its the start of sequence code :-/
144/145 are imoboliser errors so not going to be cause running probs.
Best i can do.........sorry :(
Im sure a v6 expert will be along when they've sobered up ;D ;D
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TD you slow git, I posted this info 6 minutes ago ;D ;D
Edit - one glass of wine all evening, for me ::)
Codes 144/145 are immobilisor related, and unlikely to be a cause for concern.
Code 12 is the start of diagnosis - no cause for concern at all
So there are no tell tale codes
The "shaking" of the engine you describe does sound like a misfire, I'm prepared to bet it's DIS, leads, or plugs.
The first thing to try is to remove a lead from each bank (not a plug yet, just a lead) and look for oil IN the plug wells.
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Off for a bath now, but will try and check again before bed. Don't worry, you'll get there ;)
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Thanks James! Checked plugs from left side. They are clean and OK. Can t get access to second side, but I can see some oil on them, so that may be the reason. Oil level seems to be OK, and it was topped up last time few k miles ago, so it must be very very small leak. Is it expensive repair? And will it help if I will clean plugs / replace them? Is replacing that gasket difficult / exp? ::)
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Paul .. the problem is ... if the rocker cover gasket leaks - common problem if the breathers get blocked - the oil can leak into the plug wells and slowly fill them to the point that the HT leads are contaminated - this can cause premature failure of the leads - which then gives a missfire.
It is unlikely that a quick clean up of leads / plugs will solve this unless you are VERY lucky, if the leads have deteriorated they have to be replaced - not cheap either ... :(
Then its gasket replacement and breather clean to prevent recurrence .. there are HowTo's for both in the Guides section
Hope that helps a tad .. not the news you wanted though ... :(
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Right... :o
So can I get access to other leads (dirty ones)?
How can I check breathers?
Will that leak get any worse / further? :o
Have that problem for last 2k miles, so leads should be still OK..?
And do you think I will be able to replace gaskets myself? If not anyone know someone cheapo..?
And last question.. Can I still drive my Omega on short distances (to and from work 4 miles one way)?
Thanks for all your help! :(
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Breather clean :
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1159298765
and
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152598350
Gasket replacement
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152564281
Leak won't get any better .. but might not get worse, after al, it is now relieving the crankcase pressure and that shouldn't get any higher .... but I wouldn't swear by that !!
Can't find a howto on HT leads but this is on plugs themselves ...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1169337137
If the car runs .. its driveable .. (unlike mine at present .. :( ) and all those jobs are doable yourself...
HTH
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Thanks for that.. Problem is I just cant afford any repairs (especially these expensive ones..) this month and there is no chance i will do it myself.. I will make only more damage.. :'(
So can i use it for next month then?
And why it is like that only when car is cold? Why it is OK, when it is warmed up!?
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I run out of knowledge now .. but it is possible that as the damaged plug/lead ( if that actually IS the problem) heats up the metals within expand, so making good/better eletrical contact and it starts to fire properly ??
Only a theory ... I'm sure a grown up will pass by and correct me soon enough .. :)
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I'm a bit mislead - because your initial post states the problem occurs when warm, as well as cold.
Either way, if there is oil in the plug wells, and if the car is misfiring, you should not continue to drive it until it's fixed.
The reason for this is because if you drive with a misfire, un-ignited petrol is entering the catalytic converter and will soon kill it. That WOULD be an expensive repair.
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I'm a bit mislead - because your initial post states the problem occurs when warm, as well as cold.
Sorry James, problem occurs on cold engine (warm as well sometimes - its like that just for first 20 miles / 10 in traffic, but temp gauge is on 90 after 10 mins). 2 days ago it happend only on warm (on a return trip, 60 miles). But next morning again - only on cold. Mechanic took a look, but he said he cant see any 'big leaks' and 'small leaks are normal for these engines' ::)
Ive been advaised that all I need to do is replace plugs / leads or iit can be blocked filter (fuel). Or just some fueling prob.
Im so confused now.. And I need to deive 1.6 Astra again! :P
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anyone? :D
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anyone? :D
Have you managed to pull a plug lead on the passenger side bank yet?
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only two, includes one 'dirty and oily'. bought new plugs.. need to fit them..
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only two, includes one 'dirty and oily'. bought new plugs.. need to fit them..
You need to remove and check each HT lead, associated plug, and plug well....
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Been with car on short round around. Suprisingly, 'judging' was hardly noticeable.. Its even worse, because now I dont trust her.. Any ideas?
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'dirty and oily' - do you mean the plug head itself was covered in oil? or just the black plastic camcover (as we saw in the last pic)
Are you losing oil at any kind of rate (like having to top up every 1000 miles?) - that would point to cam cover gaskets very likely.
But I'm not yet convinced that you have the symptoms of blown gaskets.
When was the car last serviced? In particular
- air filter
- fuel filter
- spark plugs
If its overdue I suggest its worth doing these first. Easy and cheap enough jobs.
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Well, so only black rubber things are covered in some oil. Im really suprised. After afternoons improvement I took her for another ride. It is only beter, car have got power again. No idea about filters, but plugs have been replaced some time ago.
Las time filled up with V-Power and done dew long miles. Now it really seems to be a lot better.
I have no idea, is it only coincidence with fuel, but maybe fuel filter?
Checked air filter, looks OK to me.
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Black rubber things, I imagine you mean plug leads. If these have been soaked in oil they will be damaged and will almost certainly cause misfiring.
It is vital you find and cure the leak, clean breathers and replace plug leads. You will cause further damage driving with a misfire.
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Yes, I meant leads, but they are only dirty a very little bit, so I dont even think that oil is causing any damage / misfire, but Im not a mechanic.
As said, seems to be much much better. One small misfire every 30 mins..