Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Wayne on 05 January 2008, 13:51:09
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I think i have had enough, after spending over £750 recently getting new cambelt, fanbelt, rocker gaskets, waterpump, door trim and shit loads of other stuff for that amount done on me car
i took my car to ATS and KWIK FIT and to my local village mechanic, they all said the same thing
i need a NEW alternator and battery!
they used them test meter thingys on it
alternator is running too low and the battery is also shagged
another £360 needs to be spent on it, i dont use the bloody thing, it is sat on my drive 4 - 5 days a week as i now cycle to work and i was trying to prolong the low mileage on it so stop it wearing out etc
just use it as a treat now and then
(obviously doing more harm than good)
when i do use it, its sheer luxury with all the gadgets and heated seats, nice and quiet, fast etc etc etc, 29 - 31mpg
it just seems that i keep having to spend money out on it
i was hoping it was just the battery because i havent used it for 2 weeks and i have had to jump start it twice over that period
a brand new alternator, labour and a new battery is £360 at least,
and of course my V6 model had to be the most awkward model where the alternator is at the bottom and hard to get to! :-/
these damn omegas seem to be nothing but trouble, was quite happy to go and spend how ever much on a new battery only to be hit by the above
im truly pissed off with these cars
there more trouble than they are worth :'(
if i get the above all done, i have spent £1100 on it in about 7 months, i must be rather stupid!
its surely not even worth that with 60,000 on the clock, its an S Registration November 1998 model, CDX Estate with a sunroof
the car is in excellent nick, apart from the tiny piece of rust by the top of one rear passenger side door and the cracky drivers door that wont stay open because of the "check strap" problem, cracky annoying noise that it makes >:(
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I expect you'll think this "even more cost" .. but it is only pennies and will stop at least one problem .. :)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1161105965
and
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152902108
As to alternator ... I'm not going to say you don't have a problem with it ... but change the battery FIRST then have the alternator rechecked. A knackered battery with low internal resistance CAN give totally false readings off the alternator as it struggles to keep up, new battery and you may find the alternator is perfectly OK.
HTH
:)
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it just seems that i keep having to spend money out on it
i was hoping it was just the battery because i havent used it for 2 weeks and i have had to jump start it twice over that period
a brand new alternator, labour and a new battery is £360 at least,
and of course my V6 model had to be the most awkward model where the alternator is at the bottom and hard to get to! :-/
Don't know where your prices are coming from, but an Alternator from Vx is only about £100 and a battery £50 max..
Fittings not too bad, done 2 myself..
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If your not using the Car, take the Battery out and put it on slow (trickle) charge for, say ...... a week, Ive had a few battery's come back to life this way, even though they previously failed a drop test at the Spares shop?.
My local Garage charged me 75 notes to fit a second hand Alternater with 3 months warranty.
Chris.
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excellent news maybe?
so i guess its worth me putting a brand new battery on it?
definately worth doing that for £60 and then testing the Alternator after?
when i took it to ATS in Oxford, here are the readings i got from the machine while i stood and watched the guy
ALTERNATOR TEST
TEST-RESULT
RIPPLE OK
REGULATOR VOLTAGE = 13.58 Volts
- TOO LOW-
BATTERY TEST
TEST-RESULT
VOLTAGE = 12.24 Volts
STARTING CAPACITY = 31%
-BATTERY UNSERVICEABLE-
600A
The Above means ZERO to me?
new alternator?
christ, i hope not!! im skint!
Cheers me dears
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alternartor is putting out correctly according to that readout!!! a new one may put out 14v but 13.8 is ok!!!
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.....
when i took it to KWIKFIT .......
:-/ Is there not a grubby back street auto-spark nearby? The best auto-spark near me looks a right dive, but you can't do any better than him - the main dealer will refer you to him when they've run out of ideas.
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Check that the battery terminals are not getting hot. Failure of the crimp where the positive cable connects seems to be common, and that will give the impression of a lower voltage from the alternator.
Also, give the battery a good charge on a mains charger before condemning it. It could have just been run down over a period of time by the above problem.
Kevin
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excellent news maybe?
so i guess its worth me putting a brand new battery on it?
definately worth doing that for £60 and then testing the Alternator after?
when i took it to ATS in Oxford, here are the readings i got from the machine while i stood and watched the guy
ALTERNATOR TEST
TEST-RESULT
RIPPLE OK
REGULATOR VOLTAGE = 13.58 Volts
- TOO LOW-
BATTERY TEST
TEST-RESULT
VOLTAGE = 12.24 Volts
STARTING CAPACITY = 31%
-BATTERY UNSERVICEABLE-
600A
The Above means ZERO to me?
new alternator?
christ, i hope not!! im skint!
Cheers me dears
According to exide an alternator reading should be between 13.4 volts to 14.8volts so id put it down to the battery and say the alternators fine.
lee
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Quality!
now, i want this battery for my car, dont give a damm if its up to £100!
where can i get one?
http://global.exide.com/exideGlobalWeb/pdf/tr/gb/Exide_Exteme2_4p%202006%20e.pdf
www.exideuk.co.uk
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I'd just get a GM "GO" battery on TC. Could probably buy two for the price of one of those, tey are known to last pretty well, and I doubt they're much different once the marketing speak has been removed. ;)
Kevin
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What ATS, Kwik Fit and your local mechanic have failed on is that its quite clear that the alternator is charging.....
Plus if the cars not being driven its no wonder the battery is flat and its totaly pointless testing a flat battery....similarly a heavily discharged battery will also drag the alternator voltage down as it dumps more power into the battery.
I ahev to say that the exide one you list is VERY OTT for what yu need.
A GM Go is the best compromise and it has a 3 year warranty.
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Decided on this for £85
Varta Silver Dynamic
http://www.varta-automotive.com/eng/content/microsites/microsite.html
more power than normal batteries as it has 750 cranking amps which is way more than a GM one or basic Exide, which means better at decharging and recharging, cold starts, and it stores more power inside when you leave it for longer periods of time.. hence actually starting!
infact it has the highest rating for the fitment of my car, the fitting code is 100 for a battery for an Omega Estate V6
this article is interesting reading
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/210431/car_batteries.html
also comes with 5 year warranty
other batteries including GM come with 3 years, and sometimes 4
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What ATS, Kwik Fit and your local mechanic have failed on is that its quite clear that the alternator is charging.....
Plus if the cars not being driven its no wonder the battery is flat and its totaly pointless testing a flat battery....similarly a heavily discharged battery will also drag the alternator voltage down as it dumps more power into the battery.
I ahev to say that the exide one you list is VERY OTT for what yu need.
A GM Go is the best compromise and it has a 3 year warranty.
I'm probably going to start a ramble now on batteries but I would go with GM. I have the original on mine which is now 8 years old. I use the car once every week or two: nothing more. Other than that it just sits there with the alarm draining the battery. It starts first time every time, turns over fine no matter how cold. I've been expecting the battery to fail for at least a couple of years now and its perfect. Just get a GM one but you must get it on trade club or you will pay the earth. Finally don't believe what some of the 'high street' service places tell you: they are simply trying to sell stuff to you that you don't need.
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Decided on this for £67
Varta Silver Dynamic
http://www.varta-automotive.com/de/content/downloads/silver_dynamic_uk.pdf
more power than normal batteries as it has 520 cranking amps which is more than a GM one or basic Exide, which means better at decharging and recharging etc, infact it has the highest rating for the fitment of my car, the fitting code is 063 for a battery for an Omega
this article is interesting reading
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/210431/car_batteries.html
I would still go for the Vauxhall one and save a few pennies as well.....
The vaux one is designed for the car, i would put a lot of what you have read don to marketing jargon
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Decided on this for £85
Varta Silver Dynamic
http://www.varta-automotive.com/eng/content/microsites/microsite.html
more power than normal batteries as it has 750 cranking amps which is way more than a GM one or basic Exide, which means better at decharging and recharging, cold starts, and it stores more power inside when you leave it for longer periods of time.. hence actually starting!
infact it has the highest rating for the fitment of my car, the fitting code is 100 for a battery for an Omega Estate V6
this article is interesting reading
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/210431/car_batteries.html
also comes with 5 year warranty
other batteries including GM come with 3 years, and sometimes 4
I find it odd that you quote extensive "facts" about the battery/capacity/cranking as if from knowledge/experience.. yet you did not know that a flat battery affects measured alternator output...
methinks you have been conned by snakeoil sellers ... GM on TC and save some money :)
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well, i dont claim to know all the facts..
i had just read up on battery sources on the internet
anyway, i just cancelled my order as i needed to use my car tomorow
cant be asked to wait 3+ days for delivery
got a Varta Blue Dynamic Battery for £59 fitted from National Tyres in Oxford, being done tomorrow
and i get a 4 year warranty on it
cheers
PS: your right, i aint got a clue about alternators etc
thats WHY i`m on here asking! :y
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Also
if later will become necessary alternators dont need changing..There are simple parts in inside which can be serviced cheaply..
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Don't give up fella!
Rather than go to Kwik Fit and so on, I have heard through a good friend that the garage in Littleworth, just over the hill from you, is an 'honest' kind of place.
The alternator voltage may be a bit low (especially if it's still at that sort of level with the new battery); but it may be quite easy, and free, to fix, if it is. There's a "how to fix your alternator" (may not be the exact title) on the maintenance guide section that shows an internal contact that may simply need de-grotting.
I don't know the V6 engine at all, but if you want a second opinion on electrical or other stuff, I'm not far from you at all.
Cheers,
Pete
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Wayne, as previously mentioned, get a TC card, you could have gone to your dealers today, and got a Go battery for much less....
Your car will be expensive to run if you keep using dealers and non-experieinced mechanics to maintain your (lovely) motor.
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... and have a look at that positive battery terminal so your new battery doesn't go flat too. :y
Kevin
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OKAY GUYS
so, tomorrow when i have the new sooper dooper battery fitted, do i then have the guy test the alternator again for a reading?
or go for a 45 minute drive and then test the alternator?
or do any of the above and then park it on my drive for 2 days and then get alternator tested?
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Personaly .. I'd go for option 2 ... drive to ensure battery that hopefully fully charged .. then alternator test
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Hi Wayne,
You could try "Trye-Ryte" they are in Marsh road, Cowley by the Oxford City Council works depot :y What sort of music do you play, I'm into "Jean Michel Jarre"
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Hi Wayne,
You could try "Trye-Ryte" they are in Marsh road, Cowley by the Oxford City Council works depot :y What sort of music do you play, I'm into "Jean Michel Jarre"
Look at his links - Bon Jovi tribute
BTW - seen the original years ago
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Hi Wayne,
You could try "Trye-Ryte" they are in Marsh road, Cowley by the Oxford City Council works depot :y What sort of music do you play, I'm into "Jean Michel Jarre"
I saw JMJ in the docklands (too) many years ago. Good stuff
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Hi Wayne,
You could try "Trye-Ryte" they are in Marsh road, Cowley by the Oxford City Council works depot :y What sort of music do you play, I'm into "Jean Michel Jarre"
I saw JMJ in the docklands (too) many years ago. Good stuff
From what i can remember it was a good concert :y
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Hi Wayne,
You could try "Trye-Ryte" they are in Marsh road, Cowley by the Oxford City Council works depot :y What sort of music do you play, I'm into "Jean Michel Jarre"
I saw JMJ in the docklands (too) many years ago. Good stuff
From what i can remember it was a good concert :y
it was although memory is fading - must be best part of 20 years ago! oh shit..
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Hi Wayne,
You could try "Trye-Ryte" they are in Marsh road, Cowley by the Oxford City Council works depot :y What sort of music do you play, I'm into "Jean Michel Jarre"
I saw JMJ in the docklands (too) many years ago. Good stuff
From what i can remember it was a good concert :y
it was although memory is fading - must be best part of 20 years ago! oh naff..
Destination Docklands ermmm... 1989 me thinks, was very young then ;D
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Hi Wayne,
You could try "Trye-Ryte" they are in Marsh road, Cowley by the Oxford City Council works depot :y What sort of music do you play, I'm into "Jean Michel Jarre"
I saw JMJ in the docklands (too) many years ago. Good stuff
From what i can remember it was a good concert :y
it was although memory is fading - must be best part of 20 years ago! oh naff..
Destination Docklands ermmm... 1989 me thinks, was very young then ;D
Yes I had a couple of tickets for that concert, but could not go :'( :'( :'(, but I did get to see him just before Wembley was pulled down :) :) and man was he good ;):y :y
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Most alterators don't fail completely, it's normally just the regulator and or brushes which with a Bosch is contained in one easy to change unit for about £15 or so. Garage mechanics don't change brushes, just a complete unit. I've lost count of the amount of alternators and starters for that matter that I've rejuvinated for a fraction of the price of a new one over the years.
13.58v isn't brilliant but it's not bad. An easy test for the state of an alternator is switch your lights on, rear demister, fan on flat out and stick the air con on (ie a lot of load!) and then put a voltmeter across the battery. Rev the engine to about 1000 to 1500 rpm to give the alternator a chance and as long as it doesn't drop to less than 12.5v ish then I'd say it was working ok. Should whine a bit as well if it's charging hard. Not a hard and fast test but a good indicator.
Humpy
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Hi Wayne,
You could try "Trye-Ryte" they are in Marsh road, Cowley by the Oxford City Council works depot :y What sort of music do you play, I'm into "Jean Michel Jarre"
I saw JMJ in the docklands (too) many years ago. Good stuff
From what i can remember it was a good concert :y
it was although memory is fading - must be best part of 20 years ago! oh naff..
Destination Docklands ermmm... 1989 me thinks, was very young then ;D
Yes I had a couple of tickets for that concert, but could not go :'( :'( :'(, but I did get to see him just before Wembley was pulled down :) :) and man was he good ;):y :y
Nothing like a good wandering thread is there lads. ::)
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The only thing that ever realy fails on Omega alternators is the bearings.....and they just get noisey (and are easy to replace)
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All i remember yesterday after i popped to Express Factors was the guy told me start my engine, turn my lights on full and then turn the rear demister, he then said "yep, your alternators gone" the battery is ok, he used one of them voltmeters... i forgot to ask him what the voltage read-out was but he said it was lower than it should be
no way in hell i got the money for a new alternator, and i have no idea who can fix it if it is that
now im damn confused!
im getting a new battery anyway, as it hasnt been replaced for over 4 years..
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All i remember yesterday after i popped to Express Factors was the guy told me start my engine, turn my lights on full and then turn the rear demister, he then said "yep, your alternators gone" the battery is ok, he used one of them voltmeters... i forgot to ask him what the voltage read-out was but he said it was lower than it should be
no way in hell i got the money for a new alternator, and i have no idea who can fix it if it is that
now im damn confused!
im getting a new battery anyway, as it hasnt been replaced for over 4 years..
Wayne, before you spend any money, do you have a voltmeter?
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no i dont matey :(
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As said, if the battery is discharged then the alternator will not be able to put out full volts as it will be throwing loads of amps into the battery (and the other items that are turned on!)
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no i dont matey :(
PM sent.
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so chances are when i buy me new battery and then take it for a 40 mile spin, i SHOULD be ok ?
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so chances are when i buy me new battery and then take it for a 40 mile spin, i SHOULD be ok ?
I'd start by charging the existing one, run the car for a few miles, and then measure voltage across the battery with the engine running, and then with engine off...
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thanks guys, can i ask
IF i have to leave my car for about 7 - 14 days, apart from taking the battery terminals off, is there ANY other way you can leave the car without draining the battery?
how about clicking the key fob once, what does that do apart from just locking the car? i know if you press it twice it does something else?
not quite sure what though?
if i can just lock the car and not have the alarm on, thats no big deal because my car is placed behind 3 cars on the drive anyway
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I still think you'd be better off with a VX go battery than the Varta one :P
As suggested, first off get a good battery on there and make sure it's charging.
If it is, and nothing is left on / shorting, then it should sit for a week easy....
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Should easily sit for 3 weeks or more with a good battery. Obviously short journeys doesn't allow battery to replace charge used in starting.
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guys, could you read my previous posting on this thread
bit confused about how to NOT have the alarm on so i drain battery power if im not using my car, i mostly make short journeys, dont make that many long journeys, what do you all class as a long journey?
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guys, could you read my previous posting on this thread
bit confused about how to NOT have the alarm on so i drain battery power if im not using my car, i mostly make short journeys, dont make that many long journeys, what do you all class as a long journey?
No, alarm is integral. But low power so shouldn't pull much from battery.
The old addage that 20 mins driving reqd to put back in what a 5s start is still mostly valid (this is with other electrical loads off, so longer in rain/dark). This applies to all cars, not just Omegas.
(Modern batteries and alternators can charge slightly quicker nowadays).
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thanks guys, can i ask
IF i have to leave my car for about 7 - 14 days, apart from taking the battery terminals off, is there ANY other way you can leave the car without draining the battery?
how about clicking the key fob once, what does that do apart from just locking the car? i know if you press it twice it does something else?
not quite sure what though?
if i can just lock the car and not have the alarm on, thats no big deal because my car is placed behind 3 cars on the drive anyway
My Omega is not being used at present. As it is in a secure garden, behind another car, I tend to leave it unlocked so that the alarm is not on.
The second press of the key activates the deadlocks on the doors, boot and fuel cap. This means that even if a window is smashed, the lock leaver cannot be raised.
I agree whole heartedly with what others have said about your battery issue. Trickle charge your existing one first and, if all is well then great. If not, don't mess about with other batteries, get a GM go one. I use them on both my Vauxhalls and also on me transit vans. They are excellent units and have the added benefit of looking good in the engine bay.
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thanks guys, can i ask
IF i have to leave my car for about 7 - 14 days, apart from taking the battery terminals off, is there ANY other way you can leave the car without draining the battery?
how about clicking the key fob once, what does that do apart from just locking the car? i know if you press it twice it does something else?
not quite sure what though?
if i can just lock the car and not have the alarm on, thats no big deal because my car is placed behind 3 cars on the drive anyway
The amount of power used by the alarm is negligible, I have regularly left mine for 14-21 days with no problem.
A point I would make .. which flattened mine in 2 days... remember that if you park with the indicator selector NOT in the centre position, it lights the parking lights on the selected side.... I had swung into a parking space and did not notice the indicator had not cancelled .. result 2 days later was crawling in through the boot to unlock a door.. as I always deadlock the car when left :(
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Good point about the parking lights.
Reason I tend to worry a bit about the alarm is because I only do local trips and the battery never really reaches 100% (according to the green indicator in any case).
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one quick question:
for the last 6 months i have had to lock my car as normal and press the "running man" man to on before i get out, something to do with the ultrasonics i think..
if i dont do the above, then the alarm goes off randomly, i think "The Boy" told me i have a break in the wire on the car somewhere?
would doing any of the above ADD to why the battery drains when the car is left?
i also double press my key fob to securely lock the car fully
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If a car is frequently parked up for long periods it might be worth investing in a trickle charger. Halfords do a little one about the size of a mains adaptor. It can be left on indefinately and will not overcharge the battery, but will replace the charge that is lost to the alarm, etc.
The alarm probably takes enough to flatten the battery in 4 weeks or so - assuming a good, fully charged battery when the car was parked up.
Kevin
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green indicator on the battery did u mean?
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one quick question:
for the last 6 months i have had to lock my car as normal and press the "running man" man to on before i get out, something to do with the ultrasonics i think..
if i dont do the above, then the alarm goes off randomly, i think "The Boy" told me i have a break in the wire on the car somewhere?
would doing any of the above ADD to why the battery drains when the car is left?
i also double press my key fob to securely lock the car fully
Sounds like the power sounder batteries. If the condition of mine when I took it apart is anything to go by, it could result in a drained battery. Acid had leaked out all over the PCB and it was causing leakage between tracks on the board. Not at all unlikely that it could have got between the permanent power connection and negative, causing an extra drain.
I'd remove / disconnect the power sounder.
Kevin
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oh, so that could be it
how do i remove them and where are they located?
is it easy peasy? or should i try and change the batteries?
im sure there was a break in the alarm wire on the rear window on the passenger side, "The Boy" ran a test for me one weekend and it came up on the machine that he has
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recently happened to mine as it was draining battery as well.
Behind the plenum on the drivers side is where you'll find it. Remove windscreen wipers, then all the screws (a T20 or T25 :-/ is what I used for screws on the left and right hand sides of the plenum) took out the power to the sounder and no probs ever since.
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.....(Modern batteries and alternators can charge slightly quicker nowadays).
Quicker than what? ;) I reckon it charge on tick-over a whole load better than a dynamo!! ::) ::) :y
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one quick question:
for the last 6 months i have had to lock my car as normal and press the "running man" man to on before i get out, something to do with the ultrasonics i think..
if i dont do the above, then the alarm goes off randomly, i think "The Boy" told me i have a break in the wire on the car somewhere?
would doing any of the above ADD to why the battery drains when the car is left?
i also double press my key fob to securely lock the car fully
Sounds like the power sounder batteries. If the condition of mine when I took it apart is anything to go by, it could result in a drained battery. Acid had leaked out all over the PCB and it was causing leakage between tracks on the board. Not at all unlikely that it could have got between the permanent power connection and negative, causing an extra drain.
I'd remove / disconnect the power sounder.
Kevin
Wayne's car is an estate with the rear window breakage detectors - its one of these that the tech2 found.
Pressing the running man probably helps the power drain slightly, as ultrasonics will not be powered up...
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Hi Wayne,
If you need to use a Volt meter I've got one you can use, also you could try Maylins ?? in St Thomas street Oxford to get the alternator tested or there is one on "Ferry Hinskey Ind Est" not sure what there are called, but if you PM me I can tell you where there are. :y
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Hi mate
just got back from National Tyres after having my new battery fitted
i had to go back and have the new battery that they fitted exchanged because they fitted the WRONG one, i cant blame the guy on the counter as his "company" manual said that the Vauxhall Omega 2.5V6 petrol should use a 12volt 60amp battery..........WRONG!!!!
Vauxhall said that they sell the VX Go Batteries and that they are 65amp!
according to EXIDE and VARTA, the one needed for my car is 72amp
im confused with all this crap, anyway i took my car back and they stuck a 72amp battery, it has better "cranks" or whatever that is! :y
should be good to go now!
i deliberately want to leave my car for 14 days just to see IF it will start, ha ha ha ha
maybe i can pop round yours and use this voltmeter to test me Alternator?
or go to the Garages which you mentioned?
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oh, so that could be it
how do i remove them and where are they located?
is it easy peasy? or should i try and change the batteries?
im sure there was a break in the alarm wire on the rear window on the passenger side, "The Boy" ran a test for me one weekend and it came up on the machine that he has
Well i found my power sounder under the scuttle drivers side when went to replace the HBV, as you can see from the pics the previous owner must have tacken Sammy sledge to it (must have been a friend of Jaime's ;D):
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mickdundee_01/2007_1223COOLANTLEAK0008.jpg)
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mickdundee_01/2007_1223COOLANTLEAK0006-1.jpg)
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No prob's Wayne, if you want to pop over just PM me and I will tell you where I is :)
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Well i found my power sounder under the scuttle drivers side when went to replace the HBV, as you can see from the pics the previous owner must have tacken Sammy sledge to it (must have been a friend of Jaime's ;D):
Yep. That one's been "repaired" ;D
Kevin
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No prob's Wayne, if you want to pop over just PM me and I will tell you where I is :)
LOL, just noticed your location - I was over Upper Heyford on Sat playing cambelts with an Omega...
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Hi mate
just got back from National Tyres after having my new battery fitted
i had to go back and have the new battery that they fitted exchanged because they fitted the WRONG one, i cant blame the guy on the counter as his "company" manual said that the Vauxhall Omega 2.5V6 petrol should use a 12volt 60amp battery..........WRONG!!!!
Vauxhall said that they sell the VX Go Batteries and that they are 65amp!
according to EXIDE and VARTA, the one needed for my car is 72amp
im confused with all this crap, anyway i took my car back and they stuck a 72amp battery, it has better "cranks" or whatever that is! :y
should be good to go now!
i deliberately want to leave my car for 14 days just to see IF it will start, ha ha ha ha
maybe i can pop round yours and use this voltmeter to test me Alternator?
or go to the Garages which you mentioned?
How much did it cost?
My VX Battery is a 75ah one and cost £36, with a 3 yr guarantee (which is long enough for anyone)
I still think you should have got one :P
I don't mean to make a dig mate, but the reason you're getting fed up with maintaining your car is because you're taking it to all the wrong places (Vx for camcover gaskets, Tyre Centres for batteries, etc)
Get yourself a ABS trade card for £20, that's a good start. Then there are plenty of us who will help you for a fraction of the costs you're currently paying dealers.
:y
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Hi Mate
yes, i get where your coming from, but i will say it again buddy
IM NOT MECHANICALLY MINDED
no way in hell i would do any of these jobs by myself and i aint risking rather my car up for anyone
most of the very nice people on here are always too busy and cant always fit me in and a lot of the time im out earning money at weekends with my band when people are free...its a nightmare!
i also dont have time to keep running to VX all the time, they are nowhere near where i live, i suppose its convenience, but YES it costs me more and is pissing me off, lol
i will have to get a trade card, i forgot where u get em from?
and do Vauxhalls at Kidlington in Oxford actually take them there?
cheers
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look up on http://www.tradeclub.co.uk to see who takes them. I think Hartwells do, but they have to 'set it up' which can take a day or 2.
Card is £20 annually from http://www.autobahnstormers.co.uk
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on that link you sent me, it says this,
"Membership is strictly controlled to ensure that only the genuine independent trade can benefit"
dont you HAVE to be in the Car Trade?
is it MEGA easy then? lol
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on that link you sent me, it says this,
"Membership is strictly controlled to ensure that only the genuine independent trade can benefit"
dont you HAVE to be in the Car Trade?
is it MEGA easy then? lol
For a genuine trade club card, you need to be in the trade. Some clubs, such as Autobahnstormers (2nd link) provide a card to their members.
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Sorry if you've already got the answers you wanted, but
1) A new voltmeter costs from £4.99 (Maplins or similar). It's actually a multimeter so you'll be able to use it for other little electrical jobs (continuity testing etc) [but be careful on 240 V electrics if you're not sure about it].
2) I've always assumed that using the key in the door-lock to lock the car instead of the remote WOULDN'T set the alarm, but I'm not sure about this - you could check, I guess locking the car with a window open and then trying to trigger the alarm by waving in front of the motion sensor.