Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: platty on 01 April 2008, 20:00:09
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Hi guys, just started to tackle both my Air-Con and Aux belts as they are both dead.
Took off the "TURBO DIESEL" part at the front and noticed oil inside of this.. hmmm. Then removed the pipe from intercooler to said piece to find this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v241/chrispy_platt/Mega%20Drive/DSC02078.jpg)
Then I removed the pipe from airfilter to turbo to find this: (yes i did wipe my finger first)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v241/chrispy_platt/Mega%20Drive/DSC02079.jpg)
Finally I took the bit off the end of the manifold and it was caked inside with crusty deposits and lots of oil:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v241/chrispy_platt/Mega%20Drive/DSC02081.jpg)
Now I am trying to work out where this is coming from, as far as I know there are 2 options:
a) The turbo oil feed is leaking into intake?
b) The camcase is pressurising and putting the oil in from top of engine, direct into boost pipe?
Any ideas??
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thats not too bad platty seen a lot worse !! diesels do create a lot of soot and oil blow in manifolds you could clean it all out and it will be as bad in 6 mths :-?
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Looks like tractor! Ow-arrr!
(in my best country bumpkin accent).
Looks perfectly normal.
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Thanks mark (edit: & TheBoy), I shall clean it all out anyway, I just wondered if that was a serious amount or not as there was loads in the intercooler inlet pipe - what is the best way to clean the inside of the intercooler out?
Also the aluminium part between the inlet pipe and the inlet manifold has a sort of vacuum on on side and a pipe linked to the exhaust manifold on the other side. Inside there is a rod going across joining these parts together. What is this part - as it is covered in crusty black stuff and appears to be seized solid? :-/
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Thanks mark (edit: & TheBoy), I shall clean it all out anyway, I just wondered if that was a serious amount or not as there was loads in the intercooler inlet pipe - what is the best way to clean the inside of the intercooler out?
Also the aluminium part between the inlet pipe and the inlet manifold has a sort of vacuum on on side and a pipe linked to the exhaust manifold on the other side. Inside there is a rod going across joining these parts together. What is this part - as it is covered in crusty black stuff and appears to be seized solid? :-/
Thats the egr of tractors.
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Thats the egr of tractors.
Ahhh. Ok then, should it be able to move freely? as it doesnt at the minute.
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Thats the egr of tractors.
Ahhh. Ok then, should it be able to move freely? as it doesnt at the minute.
If you suck on the rubber pipe it should move. You'll also probably get a mouthful of something nasty ::)
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I will give that a go tomorrow then, without ingesting too much gunge if possible. I think it might need a bit of a "free up".
Not too concerned about the amount of oil then, i'll just clean it all out and put it back.
Thanks for your help
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While you're under the bonnet, you need to see if your ECU has sockets on it ;D
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they do it more on old oil but the best cure to oprevent the crusty black stuff is to make a plate to fit in the front of the egr pipe and block it off do not just remove the egr pipe as it keeps flagging up a fault code on the auto one i have whereas the manual which has just a plate in it doesent flag any codes
omegatoy
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damn forgot to say to clean intercooler out undo the 2 bolts after removing the inlet and outlet pipe and then wash it out with gunk or similar you will find the car goes a lot faster after doing this!!!
omegatoy
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they do it more on old oil but the best cure to oprevent the crusty black stuff is to make a plate to fit in the front of the egr pipe and block it off do not just remove the egr pipe as it keeps flagging up a fault code on the auto one i have whereas the manual which has just a plate in it doesent flag any codes
omegatoy
I suspect its the different engine management systems that cause the code to flag. Really must put the blanking plates back on mine to confirm, but I guess putting some oil in it is a priority first ;D
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omegatoy
I suspect its the different engine management systems that cause the code to flag. Really must put the blanking plates back on mine to confirm, but I guess putting some oil in it is a priority first ;D
lolololol it does help!!! talking of oil although differnt oil the trans in the auto is now definetly sick I chipped it today and exactly 97miles later it was slippimg like a bitch up hills :-X so it wil have to be an ar35 anyone got one?? within spitting distance of swindon poreferably and quickly!! pill post in wanted section now!!!!
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omegatoy
I suspect its the different engine management systems that cause the code to flag. Really must put the blanking plates back on mine to confirm, but I guess putting some oil in it is a priority first ;D
lolololol it does help!!! talking of oil although differnt oil the trans in the auto is now definetly sick I chipped it today and exactly 97miles later it was slippimg like a bitch up hills :-X so it wil have to be an ar35 anyone got one?? within spitting distance of swindon poreferably and quickly!! pill post in wanted section now!!!!
You silly boy - you knew that box wouldn't hold a chip ;D
Seeing as you lost a bit of atf, might be worth a top-up to see it through a few more days?
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While you're under the bonnet, you need to see if your ECU has sockets on it ;D
I shall do. Once I have got all this cr4p washed out and new belts on it would be nice to get the chip in! :)
damn forgot to say to clean intercooler out undo the 2 bolts after removing the inlet and outlet pipe and then wash it out with gunk or similar you will find the car goes a lot faster after doing this!!!
omegatoy
Thanks :y I'll give that a try, I poured probably 50-60ml of oil out of it!!
On a slightly different note, I seem to miss gears in my 'box sometimes, it just doesnt want to go in - is there any routine maintenance I should be doing i.e. oil change etc.? :-[
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oil change, plus bleed clutch etc...
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The oil will be from the crank case breather system.
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I think the 'box might get done soon, but the clutch is also juddering heavily when its warm... so that could be on the cards too :(
I thought the oil might be coming from the crankcase - which I'm not worried about. Would have been worried if it was coming from turbo tho!
Thanks for your help guys :y
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Clutch judder can be all the usual causes but you also need to check the dual mass flywheel...especially on a tractor.
If there is more than 20mm ish free play between the two halves then you need another one.
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Clutch judder can be all the usual causes but you also need to check the dual mass flywheel...especially on a tractor.
If there is more than 20mm ish free play between the two halves then you need another one.
I am guessing this is something I can only check once I have it all opened up? Is there any way of telling without having the box off?
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Changed Aux belt now and waiting for A/C belt & stat to arrive (thanks Andy :y), hopefully Friday.
Took the intercooler off and cleaned out, noticed that there is a fan that is seized up, so have taken this out. When does this come on? Do i even need it?
Same question for viscous fan really - do I need it? It seems I have 2 electric fans in front of rad anyway...? :-?
Thanks for any help :)
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Intercooler fan comes on with rad fans. Unless you modify it to be manually switched - cooler intake air improves performance ;)
Haven't had my viscous on since last summer. Got it to 97C giving it some real large up the mountian passes in the Lakes....
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Well I might put it on a switch then, may as well be used as opposed to just sitting there rusting up.
Rad fans have not run for ages, the temp gauge never goes above 90deg - hence stat change and new antifreeze etc.
I think i'll run without the viscous fan, it already sounds faster! ;D
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Changed Aux belt now and waiting for A/C belt & stat to arrive (thanks Andy :y), hopefully Friday.
Took the intercooler off and cleaned out, noticed that there is a fan that is seized up, so have taken this out. When does this come on? Do i even need it?
Same question for viscous fan really - do I need it? It seems I have 2 electric fans in front of rad anyway...? :-?
Thanks for any help :)
if you can free the lntercooler fan off do it and hard wire it will increase perfomance !! as for viscous whip it off and lob it in bin !! :y :y
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Well I might put it on a switch then, may as well be used as opposed to just sitting there rusting up.
Rad fans have not run for ages, the temp gauge never goes above 90deg - hence stat change and new antifreeze etc.
I think i'll run without the viscous fan, it already sounds faster! ;D
Runs so rather cold as that stupid viccy fan is always running (and stat opens early on these - 82C).
Put fan in boot (upright) for a few weeks so if you do have cooling issue, you can quickly whip it back on.
I leave my fan cowling off as well, but you have to support the PAS cooler hose (normally clipped to cowling) else it rubber son belts.