Omega Owners Forum

Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JesterRT on 12 April 2008, 16:09:48

Title: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: JesterRT on 12 April 2008, 16:09:48
Ok then, how do you get a wheel off that had a locking wheelnut on that now resembles a shredded mess?

Had new tyres fitted a few months ago (left car, picked up after work).  Just come to change the shocks and I've bent the GM Tyre Wrench, broken a socket, gone to Halfrauds and bought a stronger replacement and now watched the three prongs of the wheelnut in question tear and twist the bolt head.

Now that's off me chest - anyone recommend somewhere that can get the bloody thing off?
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: mick-1975 on 12 April 2008, 16:13:14
hi  happened to me
 i used a punch and a hammer to hit the lock nut round
to loosen it .\
 then had to get new ones :y
 slow job but saves you some money
mick
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: waspy on 12 April 2008, 17:12:11
You need these :y



http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/5-piece-bolt-grip-set-expansion-set/path/socket-sets-sockets-tool-sets
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: Andy B on 12 April 2008, 17:17:19
Quote
......
Now that's off me chest - anyone recommend somewhere that can get the bloody thing off?

I just asked nicely at ATS & he used something like Sir Waspy has shown the link to. Vx replacements aren't the same, they use the 'cake cutter' type now.
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: Elite Pete on 12 April 2008, 17:55:18
Quote
Quote
......
Now that's off me chest - anyone recommend somewhere that can get the bloody thing off?

I just asked nicely at ATS & he used something like Sir Waspy has shown the link to. Vx replacements aren't the same, they use the 'cake cutter' type now.
And they're a real pain to get off, i've been drilling at mine for over 2 weeks on and off and have used about 30000 drill bits :-[
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: Andy B on 12 April 2008, 18:05:23
Quote
......
And they're a real pain to get off, i've been drilling at mine for over 2 weeks on and off and have used about 30000 drill bits :-[

 ;D  ;D  ;D I've told you 10 million times .... don't exagerate!!  ;D  ;D :y
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: weeman on 12 April 2008, 20:46:53
i had the same problem with mine because of over tightning if its the same type with the prongs in the socket and the holes in the bolt.

i went to the local scrappy who always have some, find the nearest match, and they told me to do this ,

 offer it up to the bolt, hammer on, then slowly loosen. i didnt think it would work but it did and on all four wheels! :y
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: markomega25 on 12 April 2008, 23:05:47
Quote
i had the same problem with mine because of over tightning if its the same type with the prongs in the socket and the holes in the bolt.

i went to the local scrappy who always have some, find the nearest match, and they told me to do this ,

 offer it up to the bolt, hammer on, then slowly loosen. i didnt think it would work but it did and on all four wheels! :y

I agree, make sure the socket is hard in. But try spraying the mating face with plus gas lubricant first (where the shamferd bold head meets the alloy shoulder on the wheel) and leave it for a few minutes. It might help ease things a bit.

Otherwise buy one of these - a gator grip universal socket

http://www.endeavortool.com/Gator_Grip/page/Gator_Grip.html

I have never used one but they sound the biz. and fit up to 19mm, well above the 17mm for mega bolt heads.

Mark
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: markomega25 on 12 April 2008, 23:22:33
On reflection, if your security bolts have perfectly round heads on the circumference (I don't have them so don't know) then another option would be:-

1) take a dolly (a punch) and a two pound hammer and give them a jolly good whack straight on the head after spraying with plus gas. If no go after that then;

2) Wrap the bolt heads round the outer with a thin layer of emery cloth (rough side inwards) just more than the circumference of the nut so it overlaps, and rolled in the direction of undoing so the emery cloth tightens in that direction - and then use the gator_grip on top of that, it will grip harder the harder you turn.

3) make sure your angle of attack is perpendicular (90 degrees) to wheel face, don't use the wheel braces that have a built in clearence angle, they always slip off.

Hope that helps.

Mark

Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: Andy B on 12 April 2008, 23:27:56
There's a loose rotating collar on them that you've to remove first so that this type of socket can get a grip of the actual locking bolt. I had a home made 'chisle' that I used on the original 3 pin type.
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: markomega25 on 13 April 2008, 00:04:57
sounds like these security things are more hassle than they are worth, especially because anyone can buy the relevant "key" from fleabay if they wanted too.

Any "thief" would get them off. Hey Jester RT, had you thought of that ?

I tie my doberman up to the wing mirror everynight, trouble is he pisses on the wheels  ;D

Seriously, Jasper, it looks like you need to chisle the outer ring off, but do put the other 4 bolts back in first as this can make a serious difference to how hard it would be to get the stubborn one out.

Mark
Title: Re: Alloy Wheel - Locking Nut
Post by: MutantCav on 13 April 2008, 09:16:38
On the rare occasion that I have bought a scrapper that had loking wheel nuts and no key...I simply hammer a slightly smaller socket onto the nut...and hey presto, if its jammed on tight enough the nut will turn and come off...preferably use an old socket though in case you ruin it!