Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JonR on 16 April 2008, 22:40:24
-
What power and torque increases am i likely to see fitting the above to my 2.5?
Also is fitting just a case of carefully removing them and refitting while leaving the cambelt alone?
p.s i hate cambelts lol
Ta
Jon
-
cambelt will need to be removed, takes the 2.5 from 170bhp to around 195/200bhp :y
-
So worth it for the bargain price i have been offered then?
As im stripping the inlet and cam covers of anyway is it much more work to replace the cams?
-
So worth it for the bargain price i have been offered then?
As im stripping the inlet and cam covers of anyway is it much more work to replace the cams?
Best upgrade for the 2.5, makes the engine quite peaky... very worthwhile if you can get it for silly money.
After cam covers, err, all the brackets to the cams need to be removed.
Cambelt cover, cambelt off... drivers side tensionor i think :-/
another few hours work, but worth it :y
-
Can i use a pattern cambelt kit?
also do i "HAVE" to have a cam locking tool?
Im talking about the cams from the breaker that chris is breaking atm? They will fit and do the job yeah?
Sorry for all the questions but im gob smacked at the power increases lol
-
Can i use a pattern cambelt kit?
also do i "HAVE" to have a cam locking tool?
Im talking about the cams from the breaker that chris is breaking atm? They will fit and do the job yeah?
Sorry for all the questions but im gob smacked at the power increases lol
I would wait for someone else to confirm, as i am no expect. BUT it think any 3.0 cams fit the 2.5.
Plus i think you only need 2 of the cams, not all 4.
You can re-use your old cambelt, depends how old it is? I assume its not older than 4 years / 40k?
You could get away without using the locking tool, but i would NOT advise it, if your just 2 teeth out, it will affect performance.
-
old belt is 3 yrs and 2 months and done 12k.
For piece of mind im gonna change it, as its all off i might as well change it, really dont want the hassle of removing everything again,
I'm very friendly with my local dealer and he did say i could borrow a locking tool over a weekend if i needed to.
-
I would not be happy to refit a cambelt, especially at that age.
-
Right
1) You should use a new belt kit
2) You need all 4 cams on the X25Xe (XC25XE you only need two)
3) You MUST use the proper timing/locking tools to do the job properly and get the belt tension right.
-
Hi JonR. I also intend to do a camshaft upgrade during the next few weeks(when I have the time ).It is wise to replace the cambelt and tensioners when it is stripped down,especially if yours is approaching 4 years(mine has just done 37k in 14 months so mine will get done aswell).The general opinion is that you only need to replace the "G" cams as they make the difference,but as it does require a fair ammount of stripping down worth doing the waterpump/cam covers/breathers and as before the cambelt kit.
I have been advised to expect between 18/25 bhp increase and will make the car more punchy in the rev band so we will compare results when the job is done.The work would seem to be about 1 long day so a dry weekend should see it sorted out rairly comfortably.
-
Never recommended to refit a cambelt, not worth it anyway as if your doing all that work you may as well have the peace of mind of not having to do it again for another 40k/4 years...
You only need to change the centre 2 inlet cams for the power increase, not sure if there is a reason to change the exhaust A cams or not but no real power increase as a result, this will as stated add about 20bhp so take you from 168bhp up to about 190bhp...only way to increase up to full 207bhp of a 3ltr would be to change the block etc but then you may as well just put in a 3ltr engine as its less work lol
Its a straight swap and will fit straight in...
-
Never recommended to refit a cambelt, not worth it anyway as if your doing all that work you may as well have the peace of mind of not having to do it again for another 40k/4 years...
You only need to change the centre 2 inlet cams, this will as stated add about 20bhp so take you from 168bhp up to about 190bhp...only way to increase up to full 207bhp of a 3ltr would be to change the block etc but then you may as well just put in a 3ltr engine as its less work lol
Its a straight swap and will fit straight in...
You should change all 4 on the X25Xe......and only 2 on the C25Xe....
-
is it worth doing then?
will i notice much difference?
ta
-
As Mark says then lol Whats the reason Mark?? Dont doubt you for a second but always nice to know why :)
-
is it worth doing then?
will i notice much difference?
ta
Definitely worth doing...20bhp increase will be very noticable
-
As Mark says then lol Whats the reason Mark?? Dont doubt you for a second but always nice to know why :)
The C25XE cam with the more aggressive exhaust cam fitted as standard (same as teh 3.0 one), when the X25XE was released the exhaust cam changed to help low down torque so you need to change both on the X25XE to get full effect
-
Well I never! I thought the A cams on the X25XE and the X30XE were the same...learn something new every day :)
-
What are the part numbers for inlet and exhaust Cams.. ?
And also is there any important issue that must be taken care when changing the cams..?
-
When upgrading the cams the increase in torque will be too much for the AR25 gearbox so gearbox should be upgraded at the same time really...or will need doing not long after when the old one dies! :)
-
When upgrading the cams the increase in torque will be too much for the AR25 gearbox so gearbox should be upgraded at the same time really...or will need doing not long after when the old one dies! :)
so tco will be 4 cams + ar35 .. too much for an upgrade :'(
-
Should be able to pick up the 4 cams and gearbox for about £200...if you can do the work yourself then its not too bad :)
-
unfortunately ar35 even second hand is really expensive here.. :-/
-
When upgrading the cams the increase in torque will be too much for the AR25 gearbox so gearbox should be upgraded at the same time really...or will need doing not long after when the old one dies! :)
Gearbox is not neccassary, the increase in Torque is not massive.
Check the cam identification info in the maintenance guides, its shows what cams were fitted to what.
-
Shut up Chris you know nothing lol I thought it shortened the boxes life...but clearly not that significantly...as Mark says (again!) lol
-
Shut up Chris you know nothing lol I thought it shortened the boxes life...but clearly not that significantly...as Mark says (again!) lol
Its the diesels that dont stand the tuning but, the boxes are right on the edge of thier rating in normal tune anyway.
Remember boxes are only really bothered by torque and not Bhp.
-
When upgrading the cams the increase in torque will be too much for the AR25 gearbox so gearbox should be upgraded at the same time really...or will need doing not long after when the old one dies! :)
Gearbox is not neccassary, the increase in Torque is not massive.
Check the cam identification info in the maintenance guides, its shows what cams were fitted to what.
Thanks for the info :y :y
-
Been reading with interest the additional comments.Thanks for clearing the issues up Mark,so we are now safe to "pulg,n,play"..well almost.
-
I might as well change the oil cooler while in the middle of the V.
Wise move?
-
Wise move if it is giving problems like oil in header tank or water leaks,but what started as an upgrade is now turning into "if it moves replace it " and will work out quite pricey interms of parts alone.Well worth the cost of the water pump change at every other cambelt but oil cooler is fairly major if nothing causing problems.
-
Dirty mucky brown coolant, can get cooler For 80 tokens.
tbh I am going to keep it So might as well, and I paid peanuts for the car
-
P.s I will be doing an the work my self
-
If coolant is like peanut butter then worth the effort,and at that price seems no point in not doing it then .Worth reading the posts on removal as you will require a "crowsfoot spanner"to remove the oil pipes from the filter.Everybody says NOT to bend the pipes as they leak afterwards,you will also require the sealant and mastic gun to apply.Best of luck with it all.
-
P.s I will be doing an the work my self
A couple of pointers then:
Don't bend the oil cooler pipes to access the cooler, disconnect them by the oil filter.
You might want to get hold of a set of camshaft front oil seals as these will be disturbed. They can often be re-used but you'll be stuck if you accidentally muller one.
Make sure you note the location of the cam bearing caps before you remove them. They are numbered but it's easy to forget which way round they go. They must be fitted in the original location and the same way round as they were originally. It's good practice to oil the cam bearing journals just to protect them during the initial start-up as they will end up dry. Doing one cam at a time helps keep everything in order.
Use a little green sealant on the mating faces of the front cam bearing cap as they bolt down to the head but don't block the oilways.
It might be worth taking eack hydraulic lifter out and cleaning it http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1163080380 seeing as they'll be accessible with the cams out.
I'd give yourself a clear day to do the job. You don't want to have to rush it.
Kevin
-
Been reading this with great interest. Can you get cam upgrades for the 2 litre engine? X20XEV. If so, where can you get them, part number and prices roughly? Will they make a great a difference to this engine?
-
P.s I will be doing an the work my self
A couple of pointers then:
Don't bend the oil cooler pipes to access the cooler, disconnect them by the oil filter.
You might want to get hold of a set of camshaft front oil seals as these will be disturbed. They can often be re-used but you'll be stuck if you accidentally muller one.
Make sure you note the location of the cam bearing caps before you remove them. They are numbered but it's easy to forget which way round they go. They must be fitted in the original location and the same way round as they were originally. It's good practice to oil the cam bearing journals just to protect them during the initial start-up as they will end up dry. Doing one cam at a time helps keep everything in order.
Use a little green sealant on the mating faces of the front cam bearing cap as they bolt down to the head but don't block the oilways.
It might be worth taking eack hydraulic lifter out and cleaning it http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1163080380 seeing as they'll be accessible with the cams out.
I'd give yourself a clear day to do the job. You don't want to have to rush it.
Kevin
Precious info Kevin..Thanks :y
-
You dont need to remove the oil cooler pipes, just loosen the bolts with your crow thingy so you can move them out the way to remove the oil cooler without bending them...
-
P.s I will be doing an the work my self
A couple of pointers then:
Don't bend the oil cooler pipes to access the cooler, disconnect them by the oil filter.
You might want to get hold of a set of camshaft front oil seals as these will be disturbed. They can often be re-used but you'll be stuck if you accidentally muller one.
Make sure you note the location of the cam bearing caps before you remove them. They are numbered but it's easy to forget which way round they go. They must be fitted in the original location and the same way round as they were originally. It's good practice to oil the cam bearing journals just to protect them during the initial start-up as they will end up dry. Doing one cam at a time helps keep everything in order.
Use a little green sealant on the mating faces of the front cam bearing cap as they bolt down to the head but don't block the oilways.
It might be worth taking eack hydraulic lifter out and cleaning it http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1163080380 seeing as they'll be accessible with the cams out.
I'd give yourself a clear day to do the job. You don't want to have to rush it.
Kevin
woah, your a walking bible lol
thanks fella,
im going to be doing over a weekend anyway so have plenty of time and i will have my brother as a 2nd pair of hands..
-
Forgot to say the lifters will probably rattle like mad when you first start it. Don't panic. Run it at a fast idle or drive it gently until they quieten. This can take some time.
Kevin
-
just had a thought, a cam locking tool will be of no use. how do i set the timing back up?
-
This may help a bit I think..
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152565319