Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: jasonxr2racer on 18 May 2008, 19:26:27
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Right not used the omega for 3 days as it is P*****g me off.
Started up today, was very lumpy and runnig rough cold.
Was also popping back through the air box and inlet pipes.
Set off after 3 mins, got as far as half a mile and it cut out.
Stuck just turning left at set of lights looked a right K**b
Tried starting wouldn't have it and stank very eggy.
I though it may be the cats but it wouldn't start at all if completely blocked?
Could it be Lambda sensors?
I'm considering getting rid cos i don't need this hassle when going racing next weekend.
Think the diesel Vectra is going back on the road!!!!
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I think the rotten eggs smell is to do with blocked cats.........and makes sense that it started.......then as pressure built up in the exhaust.......it stalled...
You could undo the exhauxt manifolds to cat and see what happens......be bloody noisey.....but if it runs and doesnt stall....would prove the blocked cat theory
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Cheers I thought it could be.
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I note we are off down the miss diagnosis route again..........
Right, cats tend to smell when they get doused in petrol which burns and gets them very hot.
If the cats were blocked the air injection pipes would have melted (because lets be honest, they dont both block at the same time and at the same rate)
So
1) Is the ECU light on
2) If its not then suspect the ignition.....DIS pack?
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ECU light is on.
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So run a paperclip test, and report back
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Will do clip test tonight!!!!
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I note we are off down the miss diagnosis route again..........
Right, cats tend to smell when they get doused in petrol which burns and gets them very hot.
If the cats were blocked the air injection pipes would have melted (because lets be honest, they dont both block at the same time and at the same rate)
So
1) Is the ECU light on
2) If its not then suspect the ignition.....DIS pack?
Seconded - the eggy smell is fuel not being combusted in the cylinders and making its way into the cats. The rough running when you started it was the DIS pack not firing all cylinders (hence the unburnt fuel). Vauxhalls of this vintage seem to like breaking their DIS'....
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I note we are off down the miss diagnosis route again..........
Right, cats tend to smell when they get doused in petrol which burns and gets them very hot.
If the cats were blocked the air injection pipes would have melted (because lets be honest, they dont both block at the same time and at the same rate)
So
1) Is the ECU light on
2) If its not then suspect the ignition.....DIS pack?
Seconded - the eggy smell is fuel not being combusted in the cylinders and making its way into the cats. The rough running when you started it was the DIS pack not firing all cylinders (hence the unburnt fuel). Vauxhalls of this vintage seem to like breaking their DIS'....
lol....welcome to the modern world of distributor less ignition sysems......all makes eat DIS packs and coil per plug setups (Renaults for some reason last 18 months!).
The fact the V6 lasts 100K+Miles sudgests its a good one!
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lol....welcome to the modern world of distributor less ignition sysems......all makes eat DIS packs and coil per plug setups (Renaults for some reason last 18 months!).
The fact the V6 lasts 100K+Miles sudgests its a good one!
Seconded. Every production car I've had with a coil pack has failed (except the Omega, but given time, it will). Quite surprised the Fraud coil pack on the Westfield has lasted so long. Probably because I've got a spare one. >:(
Think yourself lucky it's not a Mazda. I was quoted 260 quid plus VAT for a pair of little coil packs for Mrs. KW's MX-5. Needless to say I told the stealer what he could do with them (energised, preferably).
My Laguna had a failed coil pack at about 7 years & 120 K but it was only about 35 quid and you could buy cylinder pairs individually.
Meanwhile, crude old ignition coils used to last ages even with the abuse that came with being driven by a set of points.
Kevin
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I've been lucky with coil packs. Project TB1 I swapped coil pack, but it turned out to be leads (and Timbuk had old DIS). Had one of the coil packs fail on the Rover, but that may have been due to some stupid dealer leaving the rubb bit of a plug spanner on the plug, then forcing the coil pack down on it >:(
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so why cant they make coil packs last for ever like the old coil,or is it that they dont want to ? :-/
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so why cant they make coil packs last for ever like the old coil,or is it that they dont want to ? :-/
higher demands are now placed on the HT components
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so why cant they make coil packs last for ever like the old coil,or is it that they dont want to ? :-/
Much higher voltages, generally smaller and lighter items in hotter areas....all adds to the issue.
Reality is, not many of the early coils would of lasted 100K miles and how many distributor caps, leads, rotor arms and possibly even points and condensers would you ahev got through by then!
The added benefit is much better economy and emissions!
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Did clip test and these 2 faults came up obviuosly with engine not running.
code 21 Throttle pos Sensor (High voltage)
code 74 Mass Air Flow Sensor (High voltage)
Any ideas?
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Did clip test and these 2 faults came up obviuosly with engine not running.
code 21 Throttle pos Sensor (High voltage)
code 74 Mass Air Flow Sensor (High voltage)
Any ideas?
Air leak?
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Thats been said before but checked pipes.
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High voltage reported on another post (idle speed valve) turned out to be a duff alternator - but those two (IIRC) run off an ECU generated voltage...
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I suspected the TPS to be suspect with my first problem of the idle going up and down from 1000 to 1500 RPM when car was warmed up.
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Have you read the battery voltage with the engine running?
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To add - I've never seen a V6 TPS fail.
Usually the codes are caused by an underlying electrical problem (often the regulator)
Stick a multemeter on the battey at tickover, and vacc test it - and let us know the findings.
I still suspect an air leak is contributing.
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Cant do that task cos i cant get it to run.
Now off the road and Vectra back in use.
Car will be sold once sorted!!!!
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Had another try to get Omega going today.
Checked all the Vac pipes and all ok.
I could only get the car to run when I removed the Ram pipes from the Inlet manifold.
Also would only idle if pipe from ICV was removed from ram pipe.
Any ideas?
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Blocked or too dirty air filter?
Faulty air flow meter?
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Blocked or too dirty air filter?
Faulty air flow meter?
Well when i did clip test faults came up on TPS high voltage and Mass Air flow sensor High voltage.
Could it be that then?
Before these probs the idle when warm was irratic going from 1000rpm up to 1600 RPM and back constantly.
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not being very technical, no connectors have worked loose on any of the sensors. just a suggestion ;)
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Checked everything today.
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The TPS connector is easy to leave off when doing work and without it the car runs pretty poorly. I'd get that error cleared then see where you are. Could be connector or wiring damaged somewhere.