Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Ironingboard on 06 June 2008, 01:22:11
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Can the oil cooler plate be resealed without removing the oil cooler or pipes?
I have a coolant leak around the edge of my oil cooler, I'm wondering if it can be lifted up enough to reseal it or could I run sealant along the outer edge of the plate to reseal it?
Any insights or knowledge would be appreciated :y
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You could reseal the cover but only by disconnecting pipes, removing it and lifting out the oil cooler to clean up everything especially the mating surfaces. You would also need new 'o' rings for between the top of the two inlet/outlet pipes and the cover. Doubt you will seal the leak for any length of time without doing this. If when you take it apart you have the old pre-stainless cooler I'd renew that anyway. Maybe facelift versions have stainless coolers, mine is pre facelift.
Geoff
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You need to pop it out to re-seal it.
And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
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You need to pop it out to re-seal it.
And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
But still keep failing >:(
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You need to pop it out to re-seal it.
And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
But still keep failing >:(
When badly maintained.............
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You need to pop it out to re-seal it.
And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
But still keep failing >:(
When badly maintained.............
I ad one fail on a Vectra 2.6 with only 38k on the clock and the antifreeze had been replaced.
I asked Vx parts man about it and he said the oil coolers are crap in there construction :-?
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You need to pop it out to re-seal it.
And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
But still keep failing >:(
When badly maintained.............
I ad one fail on a Vectra 2.6 with only 38k on the clock and the antifreeze had been replaced.
I asked Vx parts man about it and he said the oil coolers are crap in there construction :-?
And what would a parts man know about thier construction.......
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When the cylinder heads are fitted there is not enough room to lift the heat exchanger straight out. The process is:
Plennum, intake bridge and inlet manifold off
Coolant bridge off
Loosen oil pipes at oil filter end (Need crows foot spanners)
Disconnect oil pipes from heat exchanger and lift up as far as poss.
Undo nuts fixing heat exchanger to cover plate
Unbolt cover plate from block.
Lift off cover plate
lift out heat exchanger.
You have to clean and degrease (cellulose thinners etc) the block face and cover to get the sealant to stick properly.
New O rings on the heat exchanger and place in block.
Apply sealant to cover and fit, tighten the bolts evenly.
Refit nuts to heat exchanger and tighten.
Bits:
Heat exchanger O rings x2
Grey sealant
oil pipe washers x4
coolant bridge Dowty washers x4
You may find that the heat exchanger nuts strip the threads when removing. If this happens then get a replacement kit (part numbers in maintenance section).
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Cheers thanks for the info, what size of crow foot spanners do I need?
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19mm crows foot! :y
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19mm crows foot! :y
Just the one? great at least I won't have to buy a whole set of tools I'm never gonna use again ::)
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You need to pop it out to re-seal it.
And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
But still keep failing >:(
When badly maintained.............
Stainless mounted on an aluminium cover is a bit of a liability with respect to galvanic action, so it's even more important to ensure the coolant's corrosion inhibiting properties are intact, although I'd expect the cover to suffer rather than the cooler.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series
Kevin
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And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
Well the one I just took out of my '99 V6 was def ally and looked nothing like the new shiny stainless one! Perhaps an old one off the shelf put in before I had the car?
Geoff
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OK I think I might be able to reseal my oil cooler plate without having to buy a new oil cooler and cover plate.
I seen this on ebay, does that mean I can remove the oil cooler with the plate still attached and reseal it without removing the cooler from the plate?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OPEL-OMEGA-V6-ENGINE-OIL-COOLER_W0QQitemZ380036975036QQihZ025QQcategoryZ10404QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Is there enough space to do this?
Can this be done without draining the oil from the engine?
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You need to pop it out to re-seal it.
And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
But still keep failing >:(
When badly maintained.............
I ad one fail on a Vectra 2.6 with only 38k on the clock and the antifreeze had been replaced.
I asked Vx parts man about it and he said the oil coolers are crap in there construction :-?
Antifreeze changed at the ludicrous 5yr interval no doubt....
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You need to pop it out to re-seal it.
And they all had stainless coolers from about 95 onwards
But still keep failing >:(
When badly maintained.............
I ad one fail on a Vectra 2.6 with only 38k on the clock and the antifreeze had been replaced.
I asked Vx parts man about it and he said the oil coolers are crap in there construction :-?
Antifreeze changed at the ludicrous 5yr interval no doubt....
Yup must admit Antifreeze changes get neglected but just done mine as owned this car about a year & not sure what prev owner had done, sooo its pretty pink/reddy colour now!!
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yeah change my coolant regularly but I need to sort out my coolant leak without the expense of buying a new oil cooler and plate. I'm just wondering if I can reseal the plate without taking the plate off the cooler and draining the oil?
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Can the oil cooler plate be resealed without removing the oil cooler or pipes?
I have a coolant leak around the edge of my oil cooler, I'm wondering if it can be lifted up enough to reseal it or could I run sealant along the outer edge of the plate to reseal it?
Any insights or knowledge would be appreciated :y
leak in oil cooler or oil cooler plate??? i presume from your question that you have not layed eyes on the cooler itself and dont know if cooler itself is ok? although you dont mention oil in the water tank just probs with a leak??
in wich case ,as myn, just lift clean and reseal. you have to get right out to clean it tho.so no need to buy plate and cooler,not cheep. hope helps :y
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Can the oil cooler plate be resealed without removing the oil cooler or pipes?
I have a coolant leak around the edge of my oil cooler, I'm wondering if it can be lifted up enough to reseal it or could I run sealant along the outer edge of the plate to reseal it?
Any insights or knowledge would be appreciated :y
leak in oil cooler or oil cooler plate??? i presume from your question that you have not layed eyes on the cooler itself and dont know if cooler itself is ok? although you dont mention oil in the water tank just probs with a leak??
in wich case ,as myn, just lift clean and reseal. you have to get right out to clean it tho.so no need to buy plate and cooler,not cheep. hope helps :y
Yeah I don't have oil in the water or any mayo in the oil at all. I seen the oil cooler plate was leaking when I done my thermostat, but I assumed it was just the thermostat housing that was leaking and running down the side of the plate, but when I was underneath the car I seen coolant running over the bell housing and its the only place it could be coming from.
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Nope, the plate can not be removed with the cooler still attached if the heads are still fitted.
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Nope, the plate can not be removed with the cooler still attached if the heads are still fitted.
Thanks Mark, I had a feeling it would have to be taken off, well I better be careful I don't strip any threads and add another couple of hours to the repair time.
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Right >:( after spending the best part of the day trying to unscrew those god dam oil cooler pipes from around the oil filter...... I done a Krakatoa and bent the pipes out of the way when I found out there was not enough clearance to get my crow foot spanner around the oil pipe nuts. I would have to remove the oil filter and filter housing to get the clearance I need. Anyway I want to meet the SOB who thought it was a good idea to put those pipes so f**king close to the oil filter? >:(
Ok ranting over, my oil cooler looks in good shape not shiny looking all over but I'm sure its not a plain steal one I've got. Question now is how difficult is it to get the oil cooler pipes back into position?
I have pictures of the progress so I will no doubt post them up, taken before the Krakatoa incident. ::)
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might be a bit late in the day but this guide i posted might be of some use to you:
Oil Cooler Replacement Parts and Part Numbers V6:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1211220529
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might be a bit late in the day but this guide i posted might be of some use to you:
Oil Cooler Replacement Parts and Part Numbers V6:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1211220529
Thanks, yip I consulted that before I even started, got the bits I needed minus the oil cooler, plate and bolts. Everything else I got including the gray sealant. Need to put it back together tomorrow.
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I know its frowned upon, but ive always bent the cooler pipes instead of undoing them and ive never had any problems. I always fix the rear pipe first as this one is shorter and has less movement, then the front one but I suppose it depends on how much you have bent them.
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As I have said before, its easier to remove the pipes and not hard.
Yes, you do have to remove the oil filter and/or housing but, thats dead easy to do.
The trouble I have with bending them is getting them to line up again (the back one is worst) whilst positioning the metal oil seals and inserting the banjo bolt without damaging the oil cooler threads.
I am also concerned about the remaining spring pressure being applied to the joint by the now bent pipes, in theory it should not affect anything but, its another risk.