Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JezInBrum on 30 May 2008, 03:19:06
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Hi, been following a number of threads on autobox faults recently. As said on one of them I thought i would go to a "specialist" for some advice. As usulal not much use & said £1150 + vst for a recon. I asked about repair & got the usual crap expected from cowboy.
Have decided to bite bullet. Located box from a reasonable mileage car (89k) whick is being broken to to tensioner failure trashing the engine.
What are the secrets if any to making the swap as painless as possible please? I would assume secret one is to get the car as high as possible off the ground, safely of course.
Are there likelt to be any problems refitting box in car as in lining up shafts etc & it is possible for one person to do the job alone. I am in no rush to do job as I have another car I can use.
Any pointers would be much appreciated.
Juedu2 has offered over the phone advice having done the same job but the more advice the better.
Thanks in advance :y
ps I have also printed off the how to in the maintenance section that covers diesels ;)
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The car needs to to be well supported. Ramps are a good plan.
You'll need a jack or two to support the gearbox and I'd say it's a 2 man job, really.
.. and in the light of Marie's experience, remove and replace the gearbox and torque converter together. Don't be tempted to slide the gearbox on or off with the torque converter bolted to the flywheel. Flywheel to torque converter bolts can be accessed by removing a rubber plug in the engine backplate.
On the 2nd hand gearbox, have a look at the seal where the torque converter connects to the box, and also the bushing behind it for signs of leakage or damage. Also look for scoring on the torque converter nose. Offer up the torque converter and ensure it is fully home (it should touch the bell housing when properly home).
Kevin
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very difficult to remove /install safely by yourself,due to the weight.apart from that it is a fairly straight forward procedure. :y
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I managed to get mine stripped out on my own, but getting to box back in is a two person job. Be prepared to drill the exhaust bolts out and replace the filter while the box is out of the car :y
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Thanks for the replies so far chaps. Am currently locating a second decent trolley jack, I already have axle stands & ramps.
May need a few more dril bits by the sound of things but they are inexpensive in the scale of things.
I will endeavour to conscript someone i know with a bit of muscle to assist on the refit lol. Most of my friends are lightweights & prefer not to get their hands dirty. ;D
Jez
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Autobox weights ca 70-75kg (with oil). I think that it's not a problem to take it out but to put new one on place.
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It seams to me that i might have to take some pictures tomorrow and put a removal refitment guide together for you all. with a few component location pictures and a few gearbox top tips!
Ill call it....Marie's Gearbox Guide! ;D ;D ;D
i might as well as i / we are doing the job ill see what kev says but i cant see their being a problem with stoping to take a few pictures.
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I agree marie. I intenmd to document it as well. May slow things done a bit but I wont be rushing the job as It will have to right first time. Plus if it helps someone else that would be good too.
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Off topic:
i should have done it last time i took the gearbox off!
i have been messing bout with my box now for about 12 months with various different faults. hopefully this is the last one!! sorry this is the last one! ;D ;D
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Why i am opting to change it rather than keep attempting to replace bits. I know i dont know anything about the box thats coming but opening up these boxes is enough of a job being unable to empty oil out. All i intend doing is a filter change befor I fit it back in.
The most valuable advice seems to check torque converter fir & for damage to seals before fitting. That is so far at least
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i have been through tis before and its a case of 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. this is the safest option the box works fine just leaks.
the gearbox was checked before the first time i fitted the replacement box. unfortunatly gearbox are pot luck i reckon and unless its come of a car that you have owned and serviced i would air on the side of caution.
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I would also check the front sump for bits of thrust washer before fitting.
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At long last began the job. Will add a series of pics later on the main progress. Biggest pain so far was access to some of the top bolts round the bellhousing but managed it, drew blood on only one finger too ;D.
i have inclused three pics of my main are of concern prior to refit, the input shaft/ torque convertor seal. Is it worth replacing as a matter of course, or would a good clean up suffice. I only took these pics this morning, have not cleaned that area thoroughly just yet.
(http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm109/jezinbrum/27062008112.jpg)(http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm109/jezinbrum/27062008114.jpg)
(http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm109/jezinbrum/27062008108.jpg)
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Jez i'm about at the moment so if you need help give me a ring :y
pm sent
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Weighed up the pro's & cons after speaking to Jeudu2. Will replace input shaft/pump seal. the cost £10 inc postage exceeds the pain it would be to strip it out again if there is a leak.
Will report on progress after the weekend
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How did you get on?
Also where did you get the seal from pls?
varche
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Hello, and apologies for the daly in finishing this post.
Had a delay during refit, could not get box to sit on stand correctly and to avoid a flying spanners moment walked away for a few days for a rethink.
Short & sweet is after repositioning box slightly on stand centre of gravity shofted back to centre so not real wrestling required. Once first few bolts were back through the bellhousing rest flew in.
ony real problem daced was tightening the top bolts back up. Key to this is having enough clearance to get about under the car. I managed about 16 inches on ramps & axle stands. A high lift jack would have made it easier to get higher but safety is key so it decided against doing this.
The motorcycle stand made the job a doddle for me as I did it on my own. No need to worry about balancing box on a trolley jack.
I did need to putschase a couple of new tools to do the job. Most useful was a 16mm six sided impact socket. This was used for turning the crank & the down cat to manifold nuts I recall.
Have added some pics below which some may find useful. As previously described on other posts to refill the box with fluid i bought a garden sprayer, just pumped it up & left it to refill whist I did other jobs.
A kind thank you to all that chipped in with advice. I will say spending an extra few quid on the pump seal as well reduces the chance of a leak after you have refitted the gearbox back in. All seals, gaskets & filter were obtained from JPat.
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Why don't you do a howto using your pics - a bit of wordage with each pic would help the flow :)
By the way like your "trolley" - looked made for the job! Perhaps you could sell these to other OOFers :y
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Considered doing a how to but I tend to waffle once i get going lol. Maybe worth doing though.
About the stand, will be for sale soon enough probably on fleabay but open to offers. List was £116 form machine mart but got this one for £74.01 due to it being a return. The cost of hiring jacks for a week would have exceeded this so thought it good value considering i took my time doing the job