Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: bobbertbear on 08 August 2008, 22:57:53
-
i have done an auto to manual conversion and now the cruise dont work,got told i need to put the clutch switch in but dont have the wiring plug for it,anyone have any ideas as what to do to get it working again
-
i have done an auto to manual conversion and now the cruise dont work,got told i need to put the clutch switch in but dont have the wiring plug for it,anyone have any ideas as what to do to get it working again
plug should be there taped to main loom its white two pin bud just bridge it out to test ! :y
-
well i had the drivers seat reclined with me lying the wrong way round on it with my head against the pedals with a torch and couldnt find it. :)
-
I have just converted my '99 to a manual box and have yet to finish sorting the cruise wiring. (Just had a week in the Yorkshire Dales and cruise wasnt needed.....only TC Off... ;D
The wiring loom in mine is definately auto-only, the power feed for the cruise part of the brake switch came from the auto box ecu which was the first thought. I tapped into a black wire from F15 and fed this to a clutch switch (get one from a scrapper plus as much of the wire as you can separate), I connected this in series with the brake switch but cruise still didnt work.
I have now found that the signal from the cruise '0' stalk switch also goes via the autobox ecu but have not traced the wiring yet.
I will get onto this in the week and will post a How To on auto to manual once I get this sorted.
-
when I fitted cruise to my manual I tested the pin readouts on the multiplug
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1170492943/15
gives what I found - hopefully this may help in converting auto to manual and getting cruise to work
-
when I fitted cruise to my manual I tested the pin readouts on the multiplug
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1170492943/15
gives what I found - hopefully this may help in converting auto to manual and getting cruise to work
Unfortunately the auto seems to be wired up completely different to the manual. The cruise allow/deny/inhibit signal levels are the same but come from different places and to add insult the Haynes wiring diagrams are wrong and there doesnt seem to be any info on TIS.
When I get to the bottom of this I will write it up and add your description of the manual signals.
-
Matchless - is it a case that auto has 4 wire brake switch, and manual has 2 wire brake, with other 2 for clutch?
-
Matchless - is it a case that auto has 4 wire brake switch, and manual has 2 wire brake, with other 2 for clutch?
Afaik all cruise will have 4 pin switch (except v early??) 2 pins work brake lights and have copper contacts, 2 pins signal cruise OFF and have silver contacts.
Haynes has a 12V feed from cruise D-1-2-3 switch positions via cruise brake switch contacts, clutch contacts and to cruise box. Mine has stalk '0' switch normally closed contact routed through gearbox ecu to cruise box and separate feed from F15 to brake & clutch switches.
I guess the change is safety related, with the modified wiring there must be two separate +12V signals from separate fuses before the cruise will accept an 'enable' signal and a 'disable' input from the brake light circuit. (incidentally this means cruise will not engage if brake bulbs are blown)
Fix will be to link two wires at the gearbox ecu connector but have to work out which two yet......they are all black/yellow!!!!
-
Matchless - is it a case that auto has 4 wire brake switch, and manual has 2 wire brake, with other 2 for clutch?
don't think so - my manual needed a 4 pin brake switch to work
-
Matchless - is it a case that auto has 4 wire brake switch, and manual has 2 wire brake, with other 2 for clutch?
Afaik all cruise will have 4 pin switch (except v early??) 2 pins work brake lights and have copper contacts, 2 pins signal cruise OFF and have silver contacts.
Haynes has a 12V feed from cruise D-1-2-3 switch positions via cruise brake switch contacts, clutch contacts and to cruise box. Mine has stalk '0' switch normally closed contact routed through gearbox ecu to cruise box and separate feed from F15 to brake & clutch switches.
I guess the change is safety related, with the modified wiring there must be two separate +12V signals from separate fuses before the cruise will accept an 'enable' signal and a 'disable' input from the brake light circuit. (incidentally this means cruise will not engage if brake bulbs are blown)
Fix will be to link two wires at the gearbox ecu connector but have to work out which two yet......they are all black/yellow!!!!
ok, ta - I knew we had seen some 2 wire brake switches on manuals with cruise...
-
Right....did some wire tracing tonight but rain stopped play before I could try a fix.
Mini-facelift auto is wired up as follows:
F2----(Bk)----Cruise stalk common.
Cruise '0' (nc)-----(Bk/Rd)----Cruise brake (nc) ----(Bk/Bu)----Cruise pin A
F9---(Bk)---gearbox sel switch pin D.
Gear sel sw pin C (=D/1/2/3)---(Bk/Y)----Cruise pin D and Auto ECU pin 37
Simplest fix is to join Bk and BK/Y at the old gearbox selector switch connector or to splice into the Bk wire from F9 behind fusebox and connect to one side of clutch switch. Other side of clutch switch connect to Bk/Y wire on pin 37 of ECU.
Cruise should now work but I'm not very happy with this solution because the two primary paths for cruise 'Off' ('0' button and brake pedal) both rely on the same signal to the cruise box.
A safer approach is to cut both wires at the cruise brake switch and join the Bk/R to Bk/Bu. This sends the '0' button signal to A on the cruise box.
Now splice into a black wire from either F9 or F15 behind the fuse box, connect this through the clutch switch and cruise brake switch in series then join to the Bk/Y wire on pin 37 of the auto ECU connector. (Auto ECU is removed). This sends the brake/clutch signal to 'D' on the cruise box.
I will try this tomorrow and hopefully post up a complete set of wiring instructions for the auto-manual conversion.
Note, if you look at the 4 pin brake switch you will see two different colours for the contact blades, the copper ones are for the high current brake light circuit and are normally open contacts, the silver plated ones are for the low current cruise control circuits and are normally closed contacts. Dont cross them over when playing with the wiring, the silver contacts will burn-out instantly if asked to switch the brake lamp load.
-
Cruise now sorted, took about 30 mins upside down in the footwell.
Just need to write a how-to, should get it posted tomorrow, work permitting.