Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: osealy on 26 August 2008, 22:10:23
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So it still runs at 97. I can keep it under 100 with climate on HI.
Changed water pump,stat. No cowls or viscous, two flushes.
I think the motor pump pushes the water thru the aux electric pump.
Do I just fit a new rad. Eu 230ish?
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Take rad out, lay at slight angle, pour boiling water through high end, and see if you have cold spots.
Alternatively, seeing as viscous removed, start her up from cold, and feel for cold spots on rad, but be careful of crank and belts!
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If I have cold spots do I need a new rad?
With the fans wired on with guage at 97-100, when I stop the top of the rad is cold. Both sides hot, middle bottom hottish.
My time says buy new rad seeing as i'm going to have to top up atf.
Can I pour that down the breather?
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If I have cold spots do I need a new rad?
With the fans wired on with guage at 97-100, when I stop the top of the rad is cold. Both sides hot, middle bottom hottish.
My time says buy new rad seeing as i'm going to have to top up atf.
Can I pour that down the breather?
If you have cold spots, then yes, rad has partial blockages.
You cannot pour down breather as you have no idea how much to put in. Being a tractor, which is hard on its gearbox anyway, I would do a full atf change.
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I was afd you'd say that. Guess it's time to stop pricking around then & stump up for a rad. Probably cheaper than a warped head!!
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I was afd you'd say that. Guess it's time to stop pricking around then & stump up for a rad. Probably cheaper than a warped head!!
shame you're so far away - I have a slightly silted rad here you could have had for free.
Starting it from cold, and with fans disabled, do you have coldspots?
One last thing, has it been abused from an oil change point of view?
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Thanks for that. I'll try it when cold, plenty of room to get hand in with no cowls.
Is silted something of a misnomer. Ie completely stuffed with immovable scale.
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Thanks for that. I'll try it when cold, plenty of room to get hand in with no cowls.
Is silted something of a misnomer. Ie completely stuffed with immovable scale.
if you have the rad off, and rad fubar anyway, no harm in using some harse solvents. It won't flush out, it needs something to help.
Also, before condemming rad, has it been abused from an oil servicing point of view - TDs are prone to problems caused by not obeying the 4.5k MAX oil service interval.
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Serviceing?
That I dont know. Bought off ebay with 114K stamped record for main service but not oil changes. Now at 152k ,engine sounds & runs better than any previously owned td. I change with semi synth every 5k. V little city driving , mostly A roads & our handfull of Mways.
It will cruise all day at 80, heater on Hi fans off ,viscous in hedge!
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Serviceing?
That I dont know. Bought off ebay with 114K stamped record for main service but not oil changes. Now at 152k ,engine sounds & runs better than any previously owned td. I change with semi synth every 5k. V little city driving , mostly A roads & our handfull of Mways.
It will cruise all day at 80, heater on Hi fans off ,viscous in hedge!
Oh dear, 5k too long. You may have issues with blocked oilways (tractor uses oiljets to cool pistons). It is utterly critical to keep not extend the specified oil change periods, which is 4.5k MAX (though wouldn't go beyond 3.5-4k myself).
(I am talking miles, not kms).
Might be worth getting a very strong oil flush in there - the stuff I used I don't think is available in retail channel, but it solved my overheating.
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Viakal. Works wonders. From the supermarket. Eats limescale for breaka.
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Viakal. Works wonders. From the supermarket. Eats limescale for breaka.
Not in the oil though!
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;D
Viakal. Works wonders. From the supermarket. Eats limescale for breaka.
Not in the oil though!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D No not in the oil, hopefully no
Limescale in the gearbox/engine! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Just have look at the bottle and see if it says not to use with aluminium, i know it says to be carefull with chrome and stainless but i think this is just in case it tarnishs the finish on kitchen taps and the like...
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If the heater can cool the engine, I guessthe engine is OK, & the rad is the prob??
I dont like the sound of an oil flush.
I think I'll just put a new rad in.
Even tho IIRC sethsmate did this with no result.
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If the heater can cool the engine, I guessthe engine is OK, & the rad is the prob??
I dont like the sound of an oil flush.
I think I'll just put a new rad in.
Even tho IIRC sethsmate did this with no result.
I could almost control my temp with heater, though would still get too hot after a bootfull, to the point where I'd have to drive gently.
This was after I had changed waterpump/stat/rad etc. Flushing the oil, and it had had many oil changes up to that point, resolved that issue immediately. I must pass all credit to finding that gem to Omegatoy.
New rad, £234. Good oil flush, £10-£15 + new oil and fiilter.... ....got to be worth a shot :-/
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So you think , flush the oil before changing the rad? Or change rad anyway.
Climbing today ambient 17C , Dash at 100C top centre of rad cool to touch. lower part hot.