Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: unlucky alf on 21 July 2008, 17:09:50
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hi, firstly im new here so dont get mad if ive put this in the wrong place!, anyhow ive recently aquiried a 1995 2.5 td auto with box problem, i was told that this car has had another g/box fitted & despite of this it still has to be driven like a manual box, if its put in drive it seems like its in 3rd, also its lighting up automatic gearbox check, the sport button doesnt light up on the dash either, i was told it may need a new ecu, now this is where im totally lost, does the GM part number on the ecu have to match or is there others that will do the job, its my first omega so im on a learning curve since they are totally different to the good old monzas & senators i used to have, so please be gentle with me!!!!,,,many thanks ::)
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needs an ar35 box init mate they eat ar25 which is standard fit :y
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iv got a gearbox ecu somewhere off a 97 elite 3litre. i think thats the ar35 box. don't no if you can interchange ecu though
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HI, well thats confused me even more!, so how do i identify the one that will do it, i have the GM number & it has those 2 big letters on it [mines an HU],like i say its all new to me so please explain it like im an idiot!, i have been offered a ecu off a "t" reg 2.5 diesel so would it do the job or is it to new,,,many thanks ;)
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I have never ever ever ever ever ever ever seen a GM gearbox ecu fail. I seriously doubt yours has.
Do the LEDs by gearstick always light up as expected, or do the all light up sometimes, or even flash? If this do not light up properly, change selector switch.
Failing that, need to get gearbox ECU codes read. There is a nice chap in Nottingham call Marks DTM Calib who can read codes for you, though he is a busy man trying to move house.
The fact that you can still drive like a manual shows the ECU is still functioning.
One last thing, is the Engine Management light on, and if not, does it come on with ign?
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And to reiterate what others have said, the ar25 gearbox isn't really strong enough for the TD engine. Not GM's best choice.
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thanks "the boy", where shall i start?, firstly i acquired this car cheap due to the fault, the guy said he had changed the gearbox but the fault was the same,he apparently was told it could be the ECU or the wiring to it, when driven as a manual it only gives me 3 gears, if i put it in drive to pull away it seems like its in perhaps 3rd gear, the LED lights operate as they should, so if it pulls o,k when i drive in manual then why doesnt it when in drive?, also the engine management light goes on when key is turned then goes off which i believe is normal,,,,,,,,,,,ive just gone outside to the car, unplugged the ECU, & the result is it starts, the LED`s on the selector light up as normal & i can still drive it as a manual,in other words no different!!!, so does this give anybody a better idea of my problem??, perhaps i should phone the guy in nottingham but where do i find his number, anyhow i do appreciate your advice, with your brains out there & my rather large hammer i`m sure we will sort it!!!! :D
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gone very quiet on my problem! anyhow what i would like to know is what are these AR35 g/boxes fitted to?, also are petrol & diesel g/boxes the same units?if im being stupid just tell me to shut up!!!, but anyhow id still like to sort out my original problem!!,,,cheers all!
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The AR35 is fitted to 3 litre Omegas and can take a lot more torque. The casing is the same sie, but the internals are beefed up. You just need to change the bellhousing and torque converter for your TD ones.
Apparently, the gear selector switch (on the side of the box, surrounds the lever) can cause problems - might be worth swapping this first off - but the 3.0 gearbox would be a good idea, especially if you intend chipping the engine (for more power, economy and better driveability). Best bet is to get the gearbox ECU codes read first and go from there..
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Thanks for that PHIL, ive been under the car today & dropped the switch down, couldnt find where it plugs in so i dismantled the switch under the car, when i separated the body i had a load of oil come out of it, i could understand vaseline or silicon grease but am i right in saying the oil shouldnt be in there!,did notice that one of the contacts on the pivot looked like they had got hot due to the blue-ish colour, anyhow ive cleaned it out with switch cleaner then a smear of vaseline on re essembly but alas its still no go, but i was wondering if this oil that was in it could have created a short which could have flashed back to the ECU?, i know im clutching at straws but the guy i got this car off assured me that it had a g/box change but it never worked, but the fault was identical on both boxes, basically for now i want to get it on the road then i can hunt for a better box as well as other bits i need, but yes i would like a stronger box & more grunt!,,,many thanks ;)
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If it will drive, Marks DTM in West Bridgford, can plug tech2 into ecu.
Far more likely to be fault with box itself.
To change is a pain on axle stands, but easier than V6 (no exhaust to remove).
Need to use existing 2.5TD torque convertor and bellhousing
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ive been in touch with mark & i did ask him for a convenient time & day, plus his full address but as yet he hasnt got back to me, i know he is a busy man so i`ll have to be patient, going on what ive been told id be better off with a AR35 box anyway, im sure i read somewhere that i have to change the torque converter as well but what about the ECU?, as you say its going to be tough on axle stands but ive done senator B`s in the past & that was a tight job, at least the omega has got more room! so if anyone local to me has got a AR35 & whatever else is needed then please email me as i must get this car on the road as wearing a balaclava to drive a rover 200d in this weather is slaughtering me!! ;D
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oh well when in doubt,,,,,sling the gearbox out!,,,,ive located a AR35 [MANY THANKS CHRIS], what i need confirming is the torque converter, if you look back on this thread one person is telling me one thing & one is telling me another! :-/ so do i change it or not, also is the ECU to be changed or will my old one be o,k, i will get it chipped sometime [how much?] so i can break into the penny jar!,,,many thanks
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You need to use your existing TD torque converter and existing bellhousing.
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RIGHT!, Ive changed the gearbox to a AR35 [ thanks again chris]but the "automatic gearbox check" is still showing, does this mean that i now need a ECU to match? or is there something that needs resetting, i would like to get it to MARKS DTM but as yet nobody has come up with his address, plus the tax runs out tomorrow & for obvious reasons i dont want to drive it until its right as it will involve changing over my insurance as well as tax so im in a catch 22 situation, anyhow if anyone gets a "eureka"moment & thinks of something else that it could be please let me know ;).
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this is getting from bad to worse, as ive said ive fitted an AR35 but the problem is still there, bought an ECU as the guy said it should fit, received this morning & its a later one so it dont fit,he wont change it, i cant find any around the local breakers, i cant list a wanted on here as im a "newbie" & to top it all off i have 1 week from today to move the car as my neighbours move has gone through!, so im having a great week & its only monday, so to sum up,,,,,im thoroughly p***ed off!, so if somebody knows where i can get a g/box ECU for my 95 c,d t.d auto cheap/ish you would be a life saver, im unemployed at the mo so cant afford to pay top money but i`ll see what i can scrape together.
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whoa what are your symptoms?
Need to take a methodical approach here... tell me exactly what's going on and I'll try and advise, but I can't make anything out of your first post :y
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HI James,well ive tried everything else i think, ive changed the box for an ar35, as advised,the original problem was [& still is] the auto box warning, it will only drive as a manual with this g/box as it did with the ar25 box, the switch on the side has been changed & set up, i cant get the car to the guy in notts as i have no tax, to buy the tax ive got to sell the car im using at the moment, i need a car for interviews etc so like i say its a great week so far!, but if you have any other ideas that will get my baby up & running please feel free to advise me as i do know my way around cars but please dont ask me to take the g/box back out!!, oh & by the way, the "autobox check" comes up before its even started which does point to electricals i would have said unless ive missed something, im waiting in anticipation ;D
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As I have always said, I very much doubt the ECU has failed. Never, ever seen or even heard of a failed TCM ECU.
Next step would be to get the codes read from the ECU.
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i am out of my league here, but i have heard of
Strange thing like this cured by disconnecting the
Battery for i while (5 mins?) re reconnect, turn on
the ignition but touch nothing (let it re boot, so to
speak) leave it for 5mins or so and then start the car.
It has worked on other makes of car, but no idea
If its any good on the mig. Make sure you have all
Your radio and cd codes etc. First tho.
Might be worth waiting for others to confirm if this
Is a good idea or not, i dont want to make things
Worse for you, but i cant see how it could hurt
The car tbh.
Just a thought. Ya never know...
Edited.Ps i am thinking your check fault may refur to
Your old gearbox and it may not know it has a new
One. This may give it a chance to clear the codes
And start fresh? BUT, OBVIOUSLY the code history
Could be lost, which may not be a good idea???
Anyone?
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thanks for that, well i had the battery disconnected for 1&1/2 days while i changed the gearbox!, ive had the ecu sitting indoors for 2 days but as you say strange things can happen, i know "the boy" says about getting the ECU codes read but what exactly does this tell me?, are there compatibility issues? or does it tell me if it is the box or the ECU at fault, only the guy i got it off was told it was the g/box so he got it changed, despite changing the box it was still the same, he had it tested again & it still said the gearbox, the guy who tested it said it must be the ECU or the wiring to it as the gearbox was a known good one, ive since put on a AR35 box which again is a known good one. & of course the same result,im just frightened im going to get the same answer from marks DTM & taking a chance going there,[no tax etc] perhaps if there is some voltage checks i can do either at the g/box switch OR the ecu multiplug, im sorry if im being a pain but ive got no way of getting it to MARKS DTM as the way my luck is going id get pulled up going over there, i know you say that youve never heard of an ECU going F.U.B.A.R but there is always a first time or is it normal for a ECU to have issues with a different g/box?, if i could just lay my hands on a known good one it would help wouldnt it?, anyhow im going round & round in circles & im sure you are p***ed off with me going on about it so i`ll see what comes of this post :'(
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thanks CHRISGIXER, this is the problem i have that i havent been told EXACTLY what the ECU does [or doesnt in my case!],,,oh well!
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thanks for that, well i had the battery disconnected for 1&1/2 days while i changed the gearbox!, ive had the ecu sitting indoors for 2 days but as you say strange things can happen, i know "the boy" says about getting the ECU codes read but what exactly does this tell me?, are there compatibility issues? or does it tell me if it is the box or the ECU at fault, only the guy i got it off was told it was the g/box so he got it changed, despite changing the box it was still the same, he had it tested again & it still said the gearbox, the guy who tested it said it must be the ECU or the wiring to it as the gearbox was a known good one, ive since put on a AR35 box which again is a known good one. & of course the same result,im just frightened im going to get the same answer from marks DTM & taking a chance going there,[no tax etc] perhaps if there is some voltage checks i can do either at the g/box switch OR the ecu multiplug, im sorry if im being a pain but ive got no way of getting it to MARKS DTM as the way my luck is going id get pulled up going over there, i know you say that youve never heard of an ECU going F.U.B.A.R but there is always a first time or is it normal for a ECU to have issues with a different g/box?, if i could just lay my hands on a known good one it would help wouldnt it?, anyhow im going round & round in circles & im sure you are p***ed off with me going on about it so i`ll see what comes of this post :'(
The gearbox ECU stores codes describing what it thinks is wrong, and thus why its in limp mode. No way to retrieve these without a code reader capable of doing so :'(
There are no compatibility issues with using an AR35 on the diesel - many have do it, myself included. The ECU doesn't know (or care) about the mechanical differences in the box, as it has all the same sensors, and is operated in exactly the same way.
If you get a replacement ECU, it must be same ident code - normally 2 letters on the ECU itself.
I suspect at this point, you need to start metering out the loom.
No engine codes stored is there, as that can knock g/b into limp (some tractors can be paperclipped)
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engine codes???? what next!!!! so do i do the paperclip thing which ive seen somewhere on here? something about flashing lights i believe, i can handle that once ive found it on this site, my god its complicated int it :o
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engine codes???? what next!!!! so do i do the paperclip thing which ive seen somewhere on here? something about flashing lights i believe, i can handle that once ive found it on this site, my god its complicated int it :o
No guarantee it will work on your car but here's the guide...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687
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engine codes???? what next!!!! so do i do the paperclip thing which ive seen somewhere on here? something about flashing lights i believe, i can handle that once ive found it on this site, my god its complicated int it :o
Paperclip test is described in Maintenence Guides section. Only about a third of tractors can be paperclipped though...
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Your not pissing us off, no such thing as silly
questions or silly answers, i have posted many a
question i thought a bit dim and somebody will pick
Up on something a debate will follow and usually it
Gets sorted. Tbh it was more of a disguised bump.
Er...BUMP!
Ps paper clip test only reads engine ecu iirc. But got to
Be worth a go!
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Get the wiring diagram out.
Continuity test the wires from the middle round plug (blue one) at the battery tray to the various gearbox components such as soleniods, selector, etc.
I suspect a wiring fault and you need to eliminate this before changing components such as ECU's in hope.
I had a simelar problem on my car, and Mark DTM did a lot of the diagnosis with me - I learnt a lot about fault finding that day :y
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thanks james!, i`ll get on it ASAP as soon as ive repaired the teeth marks in my keyboard ;D, if i find something i owe you one,,,,,oh by the way ive done the paperclip test it gave me 16,17&92. the first 2 numbers contradict each other & the last one is cruise control which i aint got [well i dont think ive got],,hmmmmmmm ::)
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Get the wiring diagram out.
Ironically, whilst the Haynes Omega manual says it doesn't cover diesels, the wiring diagram shows the Diesel bits (or at least mine does!)..
See if you can pick one up from either ebay or a charity shop (cheaper than ebay at times...)
The 16/17 codes are most interesting, Tim..low voltage normally means a duff sensor and high voltage means wiring fault..unless its a really dodgy bit of cable with a break and an intermittant short to earth!
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hi phil, ive got an omega petrol manual [haynes] but these schematics are a bloody nightmare to follow especially as i dont have a microscope!, ive had a look at the blue plug that james mentioned & there are no pushed through pins or cut wires, as for those codes, well that is a slap in the face!, its not like ive got enough to sort out, i think im going to have to take a chance & get it to MARK DTM as this car is putting years on me & upsetting the mrs, also if its true what "the boy" says then nothing i do is going to change it anyway as the ECU is ignoring the new g/box [so it aint that clever after all], so has anyone got MARKS DTM FULL address & phone number so i can arrange it with him COZ ITS DRIVING ME INSANE :D :P
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Tim,
I wasn't having a pop - it was a genuine comment and not meant to add insult to injury.
I was just thinking out loud (and on a keyboard..). High voltage on a sensor normally suggests the sensor is open circuit (meaning either dead, or a wiring fault), whereas voltage low suggests a sensor failure or a short circuit to ground. It would normally be one or the other - that was what seemed wierd to me.
My profession is electrical/electronic, so i sometimes try and read too much into things...
Not sure if my next comment is going to cause (any more) offense, but changing the box to an AR35 can only be a good thing overall - for reliability and also allowing you the ability/safety to chip the engine ECU if you so decide - which (from what I gather) offers better driveability AND economy. You haven't gone the "wrong" route in trying to fix this problem as 99.99% of the problems you have described are physical gearbox problems. It does sound like (as you have said) it needs a severe talking to with the likes of a Tech2 given the usual avenue of attack hasn't worked in your case.
I am also going through my own headaches with my Mig...
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If you want, I can try and decode into "long-hand" the TD specific parts of the ECU/Autobox wiring with colours, etc if that will help..i.e. pin x of y, Red/Blue to pin z of switch a
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HI PHIL, I wasnt suggesting you were having a pop & im the same as you in some respects, when im doing my normal job [unemployed at the mo] im a qualified pinspotter tech [10 pin bowling machines to you!] which are a mass of mainly 12v circuits & an abundance of microswitches etc & i know that a iffy ground or indeed a bad crimp can resort in resistance problems, all im saying is that my eyes aint as good as they were & the diagrams aint the best, this is the first time ever ive been stumped by a car so its very frustrating to admit defeat, at least the car now has a name [winker,,,missprit!]
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sorry phil our posts crossed, that would be helpful & i can have a play with my test meter, but i`ll still have to get it tech2`d as this useless electronic brain is as stubborn as my mrs, never had this problem with monzas or senators but the miggy is a different animal!
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oh & i still need the full address of MARK DTM & phone number so i can get it over to him
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Tim,
If its any consolation, a chap at work is having ECU issues with a VW (shusshhhhhh), and he used to install and commission said machines for AMF...apparently, he wrote their installation manual?
He's needing my assistance electrically..big style!
Will see what sense i can make of the diagram - might take me a couple of days as don't get much spare time at the mo...
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well you know what AMF stands for,,another major f*** up!, i might know him as im also AMF, mind you alot of these bods got through on who they know rather than what they know,,,who is he?
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well you know what AMF stands for,,another major f*** up!, i might know him as im also AMF, mind you alot of these bods got through on who they know rather than what they know,,,who is he?
Alwyn (think there's enough 'W's in it) Barton...
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never heard of him,he must be getting on as these machines have been around since 1970 perhaps he was on the computer scoring side as opposed to the machines, anyhow im sitting here with a magnifying glass & the said drawings, would be handy as one sheet dont you think, flicking over pages & looking up component numbers just confuses the issue, but still need MARK DTM CONTACT DETAILS ANYONE, im running out of time as the car has got to be moved within a week & he`s moaning as i said it wouldnt take long,,,,ooooops!, i wouldnt mind but the car is no oil painting but its now become a challenge & i wont be beaten by it but have been tempted to do a basil fawlty on it once or twice ;D
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pm him...again....?????
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Not being funny Tim, but the only person who will give you Mark's details, is Mark, would be a betrayal of trust for anyone else to pass them on.
Am sure he will see this today and be in touch.
He is a VERY busy man, and was away all weekend, which may explain the delay.
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so has anyone got MARKS DTM FULL address & phone number
Don't mean to sound rude but, there is no way on earth I (or anyone else) would give that out!
Mark, like many of us is very busy, especially at the moment. He's a helpful and clever chap but he doesn't have time to fix every members problems and I am pretty sure he is going away for a bit soon.
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oh & i still need the full address of MARK DTM
No you don't - not unless he gives it to you! Sorry to sound so blunt but you really shouldn't be asking this on a public forum.
Phils offer is the best one so far, and you should take him up on it.
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well i consider myself reprimanded, i assumed he was a business as his name pops up so often, he did ask me to take the car over saying he was in west bridgord but that was it, there was another address on the email that said beeston but didnt know what this was about, anyhow i must apologise to MARK but i wasnt to know, im now going to beat myself with wet celery & rub french mustard into the wounds as ive been "a very naughty boy" :),,,,,,[well youve got to spoil yourself every now & again aint ya!]
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im now going to beat myself with wet celery & rub french mustard into the wounds as ive been "a very naughty boy"
So you should ;)
Lol, no offence meant - I'm just cautious about details like that :y
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forgive me but i have sinned!, obviously my self inflicted celery beating taught me nothing :-[,my car is booked in at vx motors today, luckily they are only about 1/2 mile away, obviously mark is to busy as ive had no answers to my last emails but its understandable considering moving etc, ive had to do it as my neighbour is moving monday so the car has to be sorted pronto, to be honest im dreading it as the guy i spoke to seemed to be "lights are on but nobody home", i seemed to know more than him which is frightening as ive only had the car 5 minutes!, anyhow i`ll let you know what happens but be prepared for a barage of swear words >:(
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oh oh!
If you get a result buy a lottery ticket on the way home, your luck will be in. Good luck.
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RIGHT! the only result i got is they didnt charge me for the test!, he did tell me that the car was to old for their computerised manuals, anyhow if it helps anyone or indeed anyone knows the problems this is what i got.
17,,,,present, solenoid1-2/3-4 volts low.
48,,,,n/present
battery voltage low
15,,,,n/present, solenoid 1-2/3-4 open circuit
16,,,,n/present, solenoid 2-3 open circuit
56,,,,n/present,selector switch undefined state
39,,,,n/present, no transmission output rpm signal
92,,,,present, crc control device open or voltage high.
apart from other things pointed out[ different turbo?] as well as a pipe going from exhaust to some valve on the inlet missing [blanked off], this pipe is held [when there] with 2x 13mm bolts both ends, but to sum it all up,,,,THEY AINT GOT A CLUE WHAT THE CAUSE IS but could be the ecu, i am now going to have a cup of tea with some biccy`s before i go outside WITH MY SLEDGE HAMMER as im at my witts end :'(, please note though not a single swear word,,,,clobolks[anag] >:(
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blimey, vx supplied the lottery numbers for you!
And no extra charge. :D
Sorry, not very helpfull remarks. Just seen a post about egr valves on a tractor on top page in this section. Wondering if thats your missing valve thing? Worth a look. But it sounds like somebody been rather around with it. I dont know much about diesels. Maybe the others will be along in a mo.
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apparently my "valve thing" is still there its just the pipe that goes from it to the exhaust, going on whats been done to this car i think the last people to work on it were stevie wonder & ray charles with david blunkett as the supervisor 8-) oh well if i dont laugh id cry, oh & how do i tie a noose?? :P
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RIGHT! the only result i got is they didnt charge me for the test!, he did tell me that the car was to old for their computerised manuals, anyhow if it helps anyone or indeed anyone knows the problems this is what i got.
17,,,,present, solenoid1-2/3-4 volts low.
48,,,,n/present
battery voltage low
15,,,,n/present, solenoid 1-2/3-4 open circuit
16,,,,n/present, solenoid 2-3 open circuit
56,,,,n/present,selector switch undefined state
39,,,,n/present, no transmission output rpm signal
92,,,,present, crc control device open or voltage high.
apart from other things pointed out[ different turbo?] as well as a pipe going from exhaust to some valve on the inlet missing [blanked off], this pipe is held [when there] with 2x 13mm bolts both ends, but to sum it all up,,,,THEY AINT GOT A CLUE WHAT THE CAUSE IS but could be the ecu, i am now going to have a cup of tea with some biccy`s before i go outside WITH MY SLEDGE HAMMER as im at my witts end :'(, please note though not a single swear word,,,,clobolks[anag] >:(
The PRESENT means its a current fault, the ECU was registering this fault at the time of diags.
NOT PRESENT means its a stored fault, but not currently detected as a fault at time of diags.
I'd probably look for the 17 first. Is the largest plug (with exception of the selector switch one) plugged in and secure? From memory, its passenger side, towards the front, not too far from selector switch itself? I'd be inclined to meter out this bit of wiring if its secure.
The missing pipe is EGR pipe, don't worry about that for the moment.
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i take it you mean the round plug? im pretty sure its plugged in o,k, do you know where it goes to so i can meter it out?, is it too logical to assume that the other end is the round blue plug by the battery?, i`ll get on it tomorrow weather permitting, also is there any info on the pin settings & voltages as it does sound like there is next to zero volts getting to it, would have thought there would be an initial 12v to this or is each wire a switched 12v, i know its alot to expect people to know about this but ive got to try as vx are no help at all [as predicted], believe me im not normally a pain in the arse but this car has turned me into one & for that im sorry :'(
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I agree wiht TB
No - not the round one, the square one at the front. It has 4 wires going in, and this connects the ECU to the solenoids. Meter out the wires between here and the middle round multiplug (blue) in the battery tray... as one test, and then back to the Autobox ECU pins as another...
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thanks james, i know the one you mean [still got my old box to look at], now the next question,,,,,,is it the base of the blue plug they go to or the top part, i recall there are a darn site more than 4 wires to this socket/plug i just hope the wiring colours dont duplicate, but thanks for that, out of interests sake what is the round plug on the box doing?
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oh & thanks TB as that present/not present info they gave me was a bit misleading, makes you think its missing rather than supposed to be missing ;D
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this is the latest, ive checked the wires for continuity & all check out o,k, on the blue plug there is a line of contacts that appear to be connected as they all meter out with each other,2 of the 4 wires from the box end go to this line, but when i test the adjacent pins on the socket side they are independent of each other, anyhow ive checked back to the ECU & all seems o,k, another problem appeared this morning when i went to reverse it which makes me wonder about the box i put in, it stalled twice & lost drive a couple of times trying to reverse it, knocked it out of "r" then put it back in & drive returned, have tried it now its warm & it now seems o,k, but anyhow its no good worrying about that until i sort out the original problem, but im on the verge of giving up as im pissing off you lot which to be honest i cant blame you as you dont deserve it, ive pissed off my mrs ages ago with this & to top it off im bloody soaking wet, perhaps if something positive was to happen with this car it might help but everything is just biting me back, anyhow enjoy your weekend all. :y
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I thought this box was a known good one :-/
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i got it off "mutantcav" who assured me it was o,k & having met him i dont believe he would have sold me a duffer,he did say any problems to let him know, wouldnt be the T/C would it? mind you its my original problem that is giving me headaches, i`ll worry about the box later,might end up converting into a chicken shack or something, i really would like to locate an ECU or if somebody could lend me one to try, its all pointing that way now the wiring has been checked, at least ive got more time as ive borrowed another driveway otherwise it would be scrap bound monday. :-/
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i got it off "mutantcav" who assured me it was o,k & having met him i dont believe he would have sold me a duffer,he did say any problems to let him know, wouldnt be the T/C would it? mind you its my original problem that is giving me headaches, i`ll worry about the box later,might end up converting into a chicken shack or something, i really would like to locate an ECU or if somebody could lend me one to try, its all pointing that way now the wiring has been checked, at least ive got more time as ive borrowed another driveway otherwise it would be scrap bound monday. :-/
You'll need one with same ident code, off a similar age TD.
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is that the GM number or the HU its got on it in big letters, do you think this is the problem as there aint much left is there :o, anyhow ive tried in all the breakers around here & only found one miggy which was a manual, so unless somebody can assist me on here then im stuffed basically, im unemployed at the mo so money is tight, thanks anyway for all your help as it`s been appreciated, perhaps this car dont want saving :'(
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is that the GM number or the HU its got on it in big letters, do you think this is the problem as there aint much left is there :o, anyhow ive tried in all the breakers around here & only found one miggy which was a manual, so unless somebody can assist me on here then im stuffed basically, im unemployed at the mo so money is tight, thanks anyway for all your help as it`s been appreciated, perhaps this car dont want saving :'(
Normally 2 letter code is used for ident.
The ECUs I have here are no good to you, and I still doubt ECU problem.
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i know what you mean but by trying one it eliminates it, the way i look at it now with all the useful info everybody has given me, it seems that the ECU sends a signal in the way of switched voltage to operate the solenoids in the g/box, as the wires test out fine to the 4 pin plug that carries these signals then the only thing that sends these signals/voltages is the ECU, the ECU does power up as such as in the relay operating inside it but i cant physically check the processor i,c or any other components [apart from diodes & electrolytics which i have checked], the only thing i havent worked out is whether the main ECU has any communication with the g/box ECU, logic says yes due to RPM & gearchange have got to meet somewhere so is there signals between the 2 ECU`S? if so could they be getting lost there somewhere? believe me ive had sleepless nights over this & headaches on my headaches!, anyway we`ll see what tomorrow brings! :D
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fact you can change 'manually' means ecu is working, as even in 'manual' its electronically controlled.
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interested to see how this turns out Tim, keep at it, we all want to know whats going on. Sorry i cant help any further.
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sorry TB, i tried it with the ECU sitting indoors by my p,c & the car acted EXACTLY the same as when it was in, led`s lit by shifter & drove manually, no difference whatsoever.
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thanks chrisgixer, well so far its given me grey hairs,headaches, the sh*ts,suicidal tendances, my swearing has VASTLY improved, the mrs aint talking to me [bonus!] the dogs are upset due to cramped conditions [2 big dogs in rover 200], haynes manual very tatty [due to me giving it flying lessons] & the mention of an ECU sends me into uncrontrolable spasms of hysterical laughter & screaming, oh & did i mention its not sorted yet, :'( all i want now is an ECU TO TRY,BUY,BORROW OR STEAL just to eliminate it but id have more chance getting a sack of doe-doe shit, i cant believe nobody has got one as there must be some other poor sod thats had one of these & broken it, anyway im thinking of making a tv series out of this but just need a name,,,,the omega swine perhaps? ;)
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it will be of no help to you to say ecu failure is not a known subject on here, presumably, as tb says, its almost unheard of. If it was a common thing someone would know what to do. There are a couple of breakers on here, Marky Mark and Mutant cav. Iirc(hope thats right) but they presumably would have been in touch if they had one. I see they have posted anyway so there you go. 2.5 diesels not the most common although i did see 2 in a local breaker, no idea if they still have the ecu.
Try a1 salvage in Reading think thats correct info anyway.
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CHEERS CHRISGIXER, this is only going to be resolved if i,,a] get another ECU to try, or b] srap the thing!, i actually got my g/box of mutantcav & he has emailed me this morning but i know he`s more the petrol side of things, i got an ECU sent from somebody off ebay who assured me it would be the correct one as the running gear was the same but a slightly later car, i got it & its the later smaller one which has less contacts etc & of course he has ignored my emails so thats made me cautious about ebay [the car came off there!], well if you go near that breakers you are on about then my car is on an "M" plate [early 95], some of the scrapyards ive been onto are talking silly prices & no guarantee, as im unemployed i really cant afford to throw money away on a chance [which i done with the first one], anyhow im now looking at the CRC warning [on tech2]which states o/circuit or volts high as i dont have crc, wouldnt this be trying to tell the g/box ECU something?, clutching at straws perhaps but at thiis moment of time anything is a candidate, anyhow back to the swearing on the car & on a sunday as well, just as well im an athiest thank christ ;D
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As an absolute minimum, I think you'll find it has to be an ECU off a pre 1998 TD. But matching ident code is the best assurance.
Good luck :y
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Might be worth doing more metering? Fire up TIS2000 and look up the fault code under Diag Checking, and follow it through.... ....sometimes can lead you up wrong alley, but sounds like you're going nowhere fast
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i believe the 98 0nwards use the smaller type ecu anyway,[if anybody wants one ive got one!] & what is TIS2000?, as for metering i have been through even as far as the fuse box & all checks out fine,still a bit confused as to why there are a line of 5 contacts on the blue plug all show continuity with each other, but the socket side are independent of each other,[perhaps common circuits] as you say im getting nowhere fast but as everything has been changed apart from the ecu its logical its the next step, this is frustrating as this is the first time ive been stumped on a car, also why would CRC [92] show up as open or volts high when i dont have CRC, anyhow when i beat this thing we will all be relieved especially me! ;D
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i believe the 98 0nwards use the smaller type ecu anyway,[if anybody wants one ive got one!] & what is TIS2000?, as for metering i have been through even as far as the fuse box & all checks out fine,still a bit confused as to why there are a line of 5 contacts on the blue plug all show continuity with each other, but the socket side are independent of each other,[perhaps common circuits] as you say im getting nowhere fast but as everything has been changed apart from the ecu its logical its the next step, this is frustrating as this is the first time ive been stumped on a car, also why would CRC [92] show up as open or volts high when i dont have CRC, anyhow when i beat this thing we will all be relieved especially me! ;D
Ignore the Cruise - you always get that if no cruise fitted - its saying the cruise stalk is missing (which it will be if no cruise) ;D. Incidentally, to fit cruise on this car, just buy the £30 stalk from Vauxhall (its a different stalk to the petrol ones though)
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PM sent as well, you may find the info handy
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A1 Reading Car Spares & Scrap MetalA1 Reading Car Spares & Scrap Metal
Silver Birch
Highland Av, Reading, RG41 4SP
0118 989 4652[ch8206]
maybe give them a ring if you get a chance, i can go in there if you think its worth it, hth.
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cheers chris, i`ll give them a call tomorrow sometime & i`ll get back to you, a friend down the road has told me of a yard i havent tried, they mainly deal in late cars but ive got them to try also,,,,many thanks mate!
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i just rang them for intake for my sisters punto, they said "come down and have a look mate". So ive got to go in there anyway.
So, like im a 2 year old,what am i looking for?
Gear box ecu pre 98 ident code first of all?
Where is it? In the triangle by battery? What does it look like? Have not a clue!
T
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Up behind the dash - somewhere by the pedals from memory. I think it was a HU code?
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HI CHRISGIXER,yup its mounted on the kickplate to the right of the gas pedal & up a bit,held in by 2 plastic nuts [10mm], mine has an HU code, i phoned them just now & he didnt know if he had diesel ones in, mind you he sounded like he`s on drugs or something anyhow sorry i didnt answer you sooner but ive been driving everywhere looking but no joy this end :'(, so please let me know how you get on.
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HI CHRISGIXER,yup its mounted on the kickplate to the right of the gas pedal & up a bit,held in by 2 plastic nuts [10mm], mine has an HU code, i phoned them just now & he didnt know if he had diesel ones in, mind you he sounded like he`s on drugs or something anyhow sorry i didnt answer you sooner but ive been driving everywhere looking but no joy this end :'(, so please let me know how you get on.
No joy either. Neither car was the same as i saw a while back, both manual and too new. No punto s of the right year either, Arse.
Yes he is on drugs.
Maybe need a part finder style joby on tinternet they have a data base of breakers, they ring you with a price(to the door) you pick the cheapest one.
Hope helps.
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i tried that part finder thingy, the result was an asian woman that couldnt help [or couldnt understand], but anyway thanks for trying, it seems i have a rare car or a bleedin awkward one, ive been given a phone number of another breakers thats not to far away but its frustrating when they say NO! but will try anyway,,,,oh bugger :-/
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whats the part number on the ecu you have a three spares here matey :y
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hi MM, my part number is; gm96 016 632 & the prefix HU, you can see the model & year on here, they are diesel ones right? ;) ive been told you only go by the 2 letters unless somebody says different, anyhow i`ll leave it with you,,,cheers :)
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oh & it is for the g/box ;D
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hi MM, my part number is; gm96 016 632 & the prefix HU, you can see the model & year on here, they are diesel ones right? ;) ive been told you only go by the 2 letters unless somebody says different, anyhow i`ll leave it with you,,,cheers :)
will have a look in a bit :y
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i tried that part finder thingy, the result was an asian woman that couldnt help [or couldnt understand], but anyway thanks for trying, it seems i have a rare car or a bleedin awkward one, ive been given a phone number of another breakers thats not to far away but its frustrating when they say NO! but will try anyway,,,,oh bugger :-/
There are several services of similar idea iirc, worth trying a couple at least. But yes i do tend to hang up with indian call centres. All english names youll notice, and oh so helpfull. They Must think we where all born yesterday.
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Gearbox was off a taxed and MOT'd car so was driven about a bit when I got it to make sure...the only dodgy box I have had so far got sent to its maker with the rest of the car lol But as said, if after all this it turns out to be the box (which I would say is unlikely) then I will replace it more than happily free of charge :)
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HI MUTANTCAV, I know my original problem aint the box & i believe you about the box i got off you, like i say once this other bloody nonesence is sorted we`ll see if everything else is o,k once its operating the way it was designed to.
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Hmm autoboxes aint my favourite as most on here will tell you but i reckon it could just be the selector switch is goosed thus sending wrong signals to the ecu?or actualy the connector iis full of crud? i know you cleaned the actual switch out but if it goosed its goosed!!
maybe worth a try?
p.s just reread it ad nowhere does it say you have refilled the box the correct way? take it you have refilled the box?
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HI OMEGATOY, its a different switch,different g/box,,,,,same result, :'( i cleaned all the plugs with switch cleaner so should be nice & clean but my only doubt is the blue plug by the battery as there is a line of 5 contacts that seem to be all connected & cant quite make out if they are supposed to be that way, the socket it goes into on the same 5 contacts are independent of each other, perhaps MARK DTM could confirm this as normal or otherwise if he sees this post :y, cheers for the suggestion anyway, now i know why you dont like auto`s :D
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oh & yes filled the box warmed up & running! ;)
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so, just to confirm, for my own curiosity and the benefit of others reading;
filled to the level hole when first fitted and cold, start engine, refill to the level hole while running as it sucks up atf, engage all gears esp. reverse, check level again, now i'm not sure the exact refill procedure but i do know you have to give the box every chance to fill the torque converter and suck up all the atf it needs(dextron 3), i have seen threads on here about getting the box to fill correctly. How much atf does the box take in total, anybody? And how much actually put back in?
Sorry Tim, i know this sounds like im doubting you and going back over old ground but cant help thinking we need to be certain this is all done correctly, i am sure youve done it, but for the thread, i dont recall seeing confirmation of the atf level?
By the way anybody know the record for the longest thread on here? Cant be far off surely?
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oh well thats me suggestions exhausted then except for this one<<<<
fit manual box? far more fun and better economy and performance too!!
that is of course if you cant find an ecu the bit that puzzles me is it wont go into top gear? well thats ecu controlled and i know it wont go there unless your doing at least approximately 55mph have you been to those heady heights of speed yet? assuming the speedo is working of course!!
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so, just to confirm, for my own curiosity and the benefit of others reading;
filled to the level hole when first fitted and cold, start engine, refill to the level hole while running as it sucks up atf, engage all gears esp. reverse, check level again, now i'm not sure the exact refill procedure but i do know you have to give the box every chance to fill the torque converter and suck up all the atf it needs(dextron 3), i have seen threads on here about getting the box to fill correctly. How much atf does the box take in total, anybody? And how much actually put back in?
Sorry Tim, i know this sounds like im doubting you and going back over old ground but cant help thinking we need to be certain this is all done correctly, i am sure youve done it, but for the thread, i dont recall seeing confirmation of the atf level?
By the way anybody know the record for the longest thread on here? Cant be far off surely?
think TB holds that record on his td cooling prob posts?? :y
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yup i filled it with the finest cooking oil & put in a sprig of parsley to make it more "tasty" on gear changes ;D, but seriously folks, i used dex3 & kept shoving it in `til it piddled out, then while it was still running & warm i lowered it [it wasnt up high], then when it had stopped coming out i put the plug in, oh & by the way, the g/box warning comes up before the engine is even turned over, as for the longest thread, well it isnt something i was aiming for i can assure you ;) or do you think i enjoy driving around in a rover 200 diesel without intercooler :-[, oh & id better mention that there is another long plug which is in the same loom section as the G/BOX ecu, I assume this is there for a manual version so ive ignored it, given the option i would have got a manual one but lack of cash & job dictated plus i wanted an estate to get my fishing stuff in :).
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so, just to confirm, for my own curiosity and the benefit of others reading;
filled to the level hole when first fitted and cold, start engine, refill to the level hole while running as it sucks up atf, engage all gears esp. reverse, check level again, now i'm not sure the exact refill procedure but i do know you have to give the box every chance to fill the torque converter and suck up all the atf it needs(dextron 3), i have seen threads on here about getting the box to fill correctly. How much atf does the box take in total, anybody? And how much actually put back in?
Sorry Tim, i know this sounds like im doubting you and going back over old ground but cant help thinking we need to be certain this is all done correctly, i am sure youve done it, but for the thread, i dont recall seeing confirmation of the atf level?
By the way anybody know the record for the longest thread on here? Cant be far off surely?
think TB holds that record on his td cooling prob posts?? :y
Now that was a saga - but we had a bloody good laugh resolving that :y
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saga is the name of a type of holiday, this aint no holiday its a bloody prison sentence ;D
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saga is the name of a type of holiday, this aint no holiday its a bloody prison sentence ;D
As Omegatoy implied, I know what you're going through - last year my tractor was making my hair go grey. That was a 6 month slog!
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please dont tell me ive got 5 more months of this :'( oh & i just looked back & in answer to OMEGATOY, yup when i drove it home from the b/sted that sold me it i got it up to 80mph & it only had 3 gears even in "D", my mrs thinks the car is religious cos she said to me,,,"why dont you get rid of that godforesaken car" :D
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Gearbox was off a taxed and MOT'd car so was driven about a bit when I got it to make sure...the only dodgy box I have had so far got sent to its maker with the rest of the car lol But as said, if after all this it turns out to be the box (which I would say is unlikely) then I will replace it more than happily free of charge :)
Nice gesture MutantCav :y hope you sort it soon Tim :y
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well still no joy finding an ECU, cant believe how hard it is to find one, im hoping MARKEY MARK will come up trumps as he said he had 3 of them, have emailed him but perhaps the email address is defunct or ive ended up in a spam folder :o, & im now on 100 & still not driving the thing :'(, do i get a telegram from the queen now ::)
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well still no joy finding an ECU, cant believe how hard it is to find one, im hoping MARKEY MARK will come up trumps as he said he had 3 of them, have emailed him but perhaps the email address is defunct or ive ended up in a spam folder :o, & im now on 100 & still not driving the thing :'(, do i get a telegram from the queen now ::)
I think he's on hols now, so unlikely to get response for a week or 2...
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OH BUGGER! :(
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Also, obviously I have no idea what Markey Mark is breaking, but wasn't aware he was breaking a TD...
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Also, obviously I have no idea what Markey Mark is breaking, but wasn't aware he was breaking a TD...
think he said he had 3 gearbox ecu,s whether or not they are from td i dont know but i do know he has broken at least a couple!!!
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Also, obviously I have no idea what Markey Mark is breaking, but wasn't aware he was breaking a TD...
think he said he had 3 gearbox ecu,s whether or not they are from td i dont know but i do know he has broken at least a couple!!!
Ah, I stand corrected :y
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how could MM go on holiday knowing that there is a miggy out there being kept off the road & he could be its savior :-/, he should be ashamed of himself, i do trust he will be reprimanded the moment he comes back ;), shameful behavior :'(
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see your in Notts Alf may be worth asking if there is a member near you with same auto ecu if you can try it on your car to see if it sorts the propb? at least then you would know!! worth a posty in wanted or help i think? it will only take 20 mins of someones time for you to try it in your car?
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i had thought of that but i dont think i qualify for putting wanted thingy`s on here as yet, but if anybody reads this & are not too far away from worksop perhaps they could help, mind you they will have to come to me but there will be copious amounts of tea or coffee & could even stretch to some biccy`s ;), or of course i could go to them with my ecu & shove it on theirs, i still cant believe how hard it is to get hold of one of these ECU`s though. :o
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at last!, ive located an ECU :), a friend located it in a breakers in hemel hempstead, front end damaged motor so it least it was going o,k ;), of course he is skint so have got to wait until the bank transfer goes through so he can pick it up & mail it to me, apparently the scrapyard bod removed it by first smashing the dashboard with a sledgehammer!!, then cut the wiring to it instead of a simple unplug so not the best yard in the world :o, its a CDX whereas mine is a c,d but all the numbers & letters on the ECU are the same, i will of course let you all know if this sorts out my ongoing drama,,,fingers crossed ;)
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at last!, ive located an ECU :), a friend located it in a breakers in hemel hempstead, front end damaged motor so it least it was going o,k ;), of course he is skint so have got to wait until the bank transfer goes through so he can pick it up & mail it to me, apparently the scrapyard bod removed it by first smashing the dashboard with a sledgehammer!!, then cut the wiring to it instead of a simple unplug so not the best yard in the world :o, its a CDX whereas mine is a c,d but all the numbers & letters on the ECU are the same, i will of course let you all know if this sorts out my ongoing drama,,,fingers crossed ;)
good luck :y - i really hope that solves it
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thanks TB, if it doesnt i`ll probably ask the scrapyard bod if he wants to sell his hammer ;D
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come on Tim, your not still rather about with that little job are you....?
;) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D :-[ :-X
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yeah CHRIS thats what i need, some encouragement ;), its a problem when the part i need is like trying to get a b/job off of the pope :obleedin impossible, if this dont do it im gonna go mad [or madder in my case!], the worse part is ive got to wait for the money to clear in my mates account, then the wonderful postal service, itll be another week i reckon :'(
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yeah CHRIS thats what i need, some encouragement ;), its a problem when the part i need is like trying to get a b/job off of the pope :obleedin impossible, if this dont do it im gonna go mad [or madder in my case!], the worse part is ive got to wait for the money to clear in my mates account, then the wonderful postal service, itll be another week i reckon :'(
Well, in that week, more time to check other options ;)
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other options TB???, I think ive covered just about everything that has been suggested & more :(, unless anybody else can suggest something ive missed, the ECU is the only thing that hasnt been tried, i almost want to drive to hemel to pick it up myself as the suspense is killing me :D
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yeah CHRIS thats what i need, some encouragement ;), its a problem when the part i need is like trying to get a b/job off of the pope :obleedin impossible, if this dont do it im gonna go mad [or madder in my case!], the worse part is ive got to wait for the money to clear in my mates account, then the wonderful postal service, itll be another week i reckon :'(
Sorry Tim. They are really good at that at work, worst job in the world EVER and thats what you get all day, shouting from all corners of the factory. Come on, get your finger out... You may not believe it but actually quite amusing ::) perhaps not quite so funny when its you own cash/livelyhood/ and above all else, car.
Seriously tho, hope it sorts it, i really do. Best of luck. Was it expensive by the way?
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well CHRIS i dont know what is expensive, £40-00 plus a drink for my mate plus p&p, ive seen these ECU`s go for all sorts of prices on ebay but i consider myself lucky to find one at all, as ive emailed untold breakers yards, plus people on ebay & been to as many breakers as i can find thats why i asked my mate in hemel to scout his local yards [used to be mine too as i was brought up there], but like i say the waiting aint doing me much good but if it cures it you will know about it, oh by the way i know you were jesting but sarcasm is the lowest form of wit ;), luckily im the lowest form to understand it ;D,,,cheers mate!
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Not too bad i guess. £40 to sort that out sounds like a good deal to me. Fingers crossed. ;)
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well CHRIS i dont know what is expensive, £40-00 plus a drink for my mate plus p&p, ive seen these ECU`s go for all sorts of prices on ebay but i consider myself lucky to find one at all, as ive emailed untold breakers yards, plus people on ebay & been to as many breakers as i can find thats why i asked my mate in hemel to scout his local yards [used to be mine too as i was brought up there], but like i say the waiting aint doing me much good but if it cures it you will know about it, oh by the way i know you were jesting but sarcasm is the lowest form of wit ;), luckily im the lowest form to understand it ;D,,,cheers mate!
So it is back to basics then.??
Had exactly the same problem crop up last Sunday evening. 95 elite estate.
with the box sounding like a bag of bolts, managed to get back home in 2nd,
managed to get to it last Wednesday for half an hour between the downpours. After having looked at the book of lies and deciding not to go there, was going to post a question here but did not get round to it.
Having just read these posts glad I did not. that could well have meant 2 of us looking for a transplant.
So anyway if you take what TB said about the gearbox ECU you had better believe it, so that's one problem sorted, the box has been changed how many times ?. if you aint convinced yet then you may be better off getting rid of it. You have belled out all the wiring and components. You have checked out the middle (Blue) engine main wiring harness, getting closer.
Start at the begining.
This is what I did as my first line of attack. slacken battery terminals, turn ignition off remove battery terminals. Remove the battery. Now check the first plug and disconnect it, check there is no condensation there and reconnect making sure it is locked in, reconnect the battery. switch on ignition, you should have arrived.
That is what I did which solved the problem dint go any further. The moral being recheck after every component you check, you are fault finding.
from the sounds of my box the brake bands and solenoids must have been having a merry jig. Both ECU's talk to each other many sensors also talk to the gearbox. it's a nightmare especially with such lousy wiring diagrams to try and work with.
hope this helps you, because at the moment you are and have been way off track.
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hi JUSTME, thanks for the info, ive only fitted one g/box myself but the guy i got it off said that he had changed it but the problem was still there, the guy could have been feeding me a line though as he wasnt convincing, anyhow like ive said ive metered out the wiring & all seems fine, when you say the first plug are you talking about the one nearest the engine or the wing?, did yours come up "auto box check" without even starting the car up?, i will check all 3 of those plugs tomorrow even though ive looked at them already just in case ive missed something, if it works then great itll be a relief but failing that i will be still waiting for the ECU, its not that i disbelieve TB or anyone else for that matter but it only takes one spike back into the ECU to knock out an MPC so thats why i cant take it as gospel, but be sure of one thing when its sorted EVERYBODY will know ;)
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tried what you said JUSTME but still no good, worth a go though as stranger things have happened, i`ll try anything even down to wearing my other halfs lucky knickers! [again :o]
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hi JUSTME, thanks for the info, ive only fitted one g/box myself but the guy i got it off said that he had changed it but the problem was still there, the guy could have been feeding me a line though as he wasnt convincing, anyhow like ive said ive metered out the wiring & all seems fine, when you say the first plug are you talking about the one nearest the engine or the wing?, did yours come up "auto box check" without even starting the car up?, i will check all 3 of those plugs tomorrow even though ive looked at them already just in case ive missed something, if it works then great itll be a relief but failing that i will be still waiting for the ECU, its not that i disbelieve TB or anyone else for that matter but it only takes one spike back into the ECU to knock out an MPC so thats why i cant take it as gospel, but be sure of one thing when its sorted EVERYBODY will know ;)
Sorry to hear that, yes I had autobox up as soon as you switched on ignition, had a slight problem earlier in the day, box sounded being awfull as soon as you moved. Thought nothing of it at the time, went to use it in the evening and it showed up, also flashed up when driving.
as said drove home in 2nd. Having looked at the book of lies and even checked this site, decided to start from these connections it was the first one I looked at, the smallest plug by the battery. switched the ignition on and it was gone, tested it and ok except for a slight adjustment to the accelerator cable, although today got a feeling that 3rd & 4th not quite right, but only when temp is at 90dg or above. it only ever goes to approx 92, 93ish. To date I have not even checked the ecu or anything else. So it will be a quick check of some sensors.
Again as TB said if you are able to use the box manually, your not going to find much there.
when you say you have checked out your wiring and sensors, back to the gearbox ecu, what voltages are you checking them against, because I have not found any quoted voltages as yet. Still looking, so all I would be able to check at present would be continuity, unless of course youre taking the switched 15v. need to know what should be coming from the sensors to the ecu, and then to the box to be certain.
At present I cant see it being a major, it runs to good for that in auto or manual change, so it's going to be the simple things first and a process of elimination. So if you have the voltages would not mind a copy, if you dont I certainly would not even think of changing the ecu.
Should I find anything else that may be of use to you I will let you know.
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hi there JUSTME, ive only done a continuity test myself as like you say there doesnt seem to be any sheets on voltages, the thing is with mine is that it drives EXACTLY the same wether the ECU is plugged in or on the coffee table indoors!, the only difference is the warning message goes [but then it would wouldnt it!], all lights by g/selector lighting up properly, ive checked for voltages on the solenoid plug [4 pin] on the box & getting sod all on any of them, so working on the theory that the ECU supplies these voltages its got to be the next target unless they are getting lost en route, but the continuity test showed o,k [not the ideal test as a damaged wire could cause resistance], so rather than strip the loom down ive opted for the ECU, the one answer i could do with is that the blue plug has a row of pins that are common to each other on testing but its anyones guess if this is the norm, i think ive upset MARK somehow as i thought he`d have some input but never mind we`ll get there eventually :y
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hi there JUSTME, ive only done a continuity test myself as like you say there doesnt seem to be any sheets on voltages, the thing is with mine is that it drives EXACTLY the same wether the ECU is plugged in or on the coffee table indoors!, the only difference is the warning message goes [but then it would wouldnt it!], all lights by g/selector lighting up properly, ive checked for voltages on the solenoid plug [4 pin] on the box & getting sod all on any of them, so working on the theory that the ECU supplies these voltages its got to be the next target unless they are getting lost en route, but the continuity test showed o,k [not the ideal test as a damaged wire could cause resistance], so rather than strip the loom down ive opted for the ECU, the one answer i could do with is that the blue plug has a row of pins that are common to each other on testing but its anyones guess if this is the norm, i think ive upset MARK somehow as i thought he`d have some input but never mind we`ll get there eventually :y
This is the 4th attempt to write the following since 2pm this afternoon, kept on getting crashes. After the sites I have visited today. Someone managed to land me with a Trojan. Had to scan the whole computer found 11 of the buggers. So here goes again.
Hi Tim,
have not found anything on voltages, or ecu codes, except you can read them with an ODBII tester, but again unless you know what the codes refer to it would be a waste of time.
So you do not get a reading on the solonoid plug!!!! so that's good then unless of coure you where driving it at the time.?????????
Right lets try and clear up a few mysteries.
The chances of 2 boxes having the same problem is rather remote, but not impossible, that applies to the ecu as well. Your ecu is telling you nothing more than it is unhappy with something, one of it's sensor readings. It does not tell you about anything mechanical or indeed the oil levell.
The common factor in all this is the engine and sensors. Which will throw up far more problems than any you will get from your box or as TB says the ecu.
You are using the box manually I believe, does not matter either way,
the indicator lights you say are all ok. There is nothing wrong with your box or ecu.
Dont get confused this is not a manual where you are just sliding gears in and out of gear.
The auto is nothing more than an hydraulic unit controlled by electronics.
Now your solenoids do nothing more than slid up and down, depending on the voltage supplied to them via the ecu. In sliding up and down they change the direction of flow and hence the gears.
Your torque converter drives the oil pump in the box hence the pressure. The solonoids divert said pressure which changes the gears.
depending on where the gear selector is. in addition there are brake bands which are also controlled in much the same way. one does not work without the other.
So unless the engine is running there is no oil pressure, you have no gears. So can you see that you cannot have a reading on the solenoids unless the engine is running and a gear selected.
Again this is how in general terms your box works. You are using it there cannot be anything wrong with it or your ecu.
You mentioned that when you cleaned the gear selector switch on the side of the box, it was full of oil ????. There is in fact an oil seal on this shaft, so it must be leaking, therefore letting air into the chamber which is known to cause problems.?
You have a speed sensor on the back of the box/proshaft which could cause problems.?
Your ecu checks the temp on not only the oil but also the cats ?
Have you cleaned your ICV ?
Have you checked your vac tubes.?
Do you have a leak on your intake manifold ?
Your reversing lights ?
Accelerator position sensor ?
Check anything that could be of interest to the autobox ecu.
Regarding Mark I am sure that if you put a message up for him he will reply. dont rely on him picking up on an old posting, put up a new short message.
best of luck
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hi JUSTME, blimey its taken me ages to read this!, right where shall i start, the g/box switch i cleaned out has been changed, it was the one i got on the replacement ar35 box, i havent taken it apart as this came off a working car, had to adjust it & thats as much as i done to it, the ecu has not been changed as yet, the car behaves the same with it totally unplugged [including selector led`s]therefore no signal to nothing, im not driving the car at the mo as i want it right, ive done the paperclip test & have had vx put a tech2 on it, they basically said that if it aint the g/box its the ecu [i know i dont trust them either]he did say that he zeroed the ecu but as soon as he switched it back on it popped up again, but did say that there is zero response from the solenoids [nothing getting to them], engine sensors are something ive little knowledge about so wouldnt know where to look,[you are the first one to mention these] but can tell you the reversing lights work!, so if you can tell me where these sensors are on the engine i`ll see if there is something obvious, oh & whats a ICV? control valve of some sort? anyhow im at the mercy of people who have more experience of miggys as this is my first, i have emailed MARK a couple of times with no response as i needed his full address,[can appreciate he`s been busy] but the tax is now out & got it on a S,O,R,N so it cant go anywhere anyway, anyhow back to you, i do appreciate your help, cheers mate :y
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hi JUSTME, blimey its taken me ages to read this!, right where shall i start, the g/box switch i cleaned out has been changed, it was the one i got on the replacement ar35 box, i havent taken it apart as this came off a working car, had to adjust it & thats as much as i done to it, the ecu has not been changed as yet, the car behaves the same with it totally unplugged [including selector led`s]therefore no signal to nothing, im not driving the car at the mo as i want it right, ive done the paperclip test & have had vx put a tech2 on it, they basically said that if it aint the g/box its the ecu [i know i dont trust them either]he did say that he zeroed the ecu but as soon as he switched it back on it popped up again, but did say that there is zero response from the solenoids [nothing getting to them], engine sensors are something ive little knowledge about so wouldnt know where to look,[you are the first one to mention these] but can tell you the reversing lights work!, so if you can tell me where these sensors are on the engine i`ll see if there is something obvious, oh & whats a ICV? control valve of some sort? anyhow im at the mercy of people who have more experience of miggys as this is my first, i have emailed MARK a couple of times with no response as i needed his full address,[can appreciate he`s been busy] but the tax is now out & got it on a S,O,R,N so it cant go anywhere anyway, anyhow back to you, i do appreciate your help, cheers mate :y
Hi Tim.
The point being the original was full of oil ? the seal is in the box so just changing the switch aint going to do nothing for the seal.
Thought you were driving it. what do you mean it is the same pluged or not ? Have you tried driving it or are you just checking it dry so to speak. Thought you Had driven it home. If you had then the box and ecu are ok one does not work without the other.
no responce was engine running no responce if it aint.
Mine is also my first but a great car to work on.
ICV = idle control valve r/h side looking from the front on side of rocker cover there is a maintenance guide on here.
If your mixture is to lean will have an effect.
Accelerator cable not adjusted proparly will have an effect.
You will get there part of the joy. And yes you will have a laugh when you find it.
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right lets recap, i got the car with the fault,drove home as manual, have changed g/box & switch so hopefully now no oil leak, also experimented by removing ECU & taking it around the block, it was no different in anyway whatsoever apart from warning not there, so ECU not needed to drive as manual, took to vx had tech2 done, fault listed as low/no voltage to solenoids 1-2/3-4, paperclip test done, no drastic faults there, continuity check done on all wires from box to ecu, all check out, i think ive covered everything apart from changing the ECU, at least if i change it it will eliminate it, so there you have it in a nutshell, i thought that any fault with valves/sensors etc would have shown up on the paperclip test but they didnt, believe me i know my way around cars but sometimes there is something thatll catch you out, just like this one!!, some people call it a learning curve, i call it an absolute arse!!! :(
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paper clip test only reads engine ecu so gear box faults will not show. But you probably know that by now. How long til ecu arrives Tim?
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christ knows CHRIS, due to the bank holiday the bank transfer didnt get sent by the bank until today despite of setting it up friday[so much for online banking being quicker], so its the case of my mate saying that the money is in his account then for him to post it, dont worry i`ll be pestering him on the phone but i cant give you a time but it better be soon as my interest in the car is wilting with every day that passes :'(.
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right lets recap, i got the car with the fault,drove home as manual, have changed g/box & switch so hopefully now no oil leak, also experimented by removing ECU & taking it around the block, it was no different in anyway whatsoever apart from warning not there, so ECU not needed to drive as manual, took to vx had tech2 done, fault listed as low/no voltage to solenoids 1-2/3-4, paperclip test done, no drastic faults there, continuity check done on all wires from box to ecu, all check out, i think ive covered everything apart from changing the ECU, at least if i change it it will eliminate it, so there you have it in a nutshell, i thought that any fault with valves/sensors etc would have shown up on the paperclip test but they didnt, believe me i know my way around cars but sometimes there is something thatll catch you out, just like this one!!, some people call it a learning curve, i call it an absolute arse!!! :(
hi tim, When you drove it without the ecu did you actually change gear ? or just drive it slowly in 1 gear around the block. If not then.
VX checked your solonoids via the ecu, there is a reason for that.
did they have ignition on or engine running.
you drove it home in manual, which in itself proves the box and ecu were ok. I am not aware that the solonoids can be checked for voltage without the engine running, and therefore the solonoids energised as required. I am not aware that tech2 delivers such power to the ecu, when checking codes. (Which do give you the codes for what is wrong).
Although there is a permanent 30amp live to the ecu, together with the ignition switched 15amp line. did they give you the ecu codes for the box ?? could get them checked. Although more than possible he did not have a clue about them, the box ecu as the engine ecu normally tell you what part it is unhappy with. the gearbox codes are diffrent to the engine codes i.e. diffrent format and meaning.
Again I would reiterate your box and ecu are for all intent and purpose working correctly as they should. The ecu is reffering to a sensor.
I certainly would not drive it around without the ecu, unless you can convince yourself as to where the solonoids are being energised from, which are normally switched from the ecu. Unless of course you where driving around the block in 1 gear. Or even perhaps another little helper in the box.
You cannot change gear automatically or manually without the proper working of the solonoids and brakebands. That is an absolute, the ecu can only be checked on the car, again I am not aware the the tech 2 does deliver such energy to the ecu suffiecient to energise the solonoids, Perhaps TB could confirm this.
In my book You drove it home originally with a perfectly working box and ecu. Keep checking the sensors 1 * 1 and recheck between.
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I have never ever ever ever ever ever ever seen a GM gearbox ecu fail. I seriously doubt yours has.
Do the LEDs by gearstick always light up as expected, or do the all light up sometimes, or even flash? If this do not light up properly, change selector switch.
Failing that, need to get gearbox ECU codes read. There is a nice chap in Nottingham call Marks DTM Calib who can read codes for you, though he is a busy man trying to move house.
The fact that you can still drive like a manual shows the ECU is still functioning.
One last thing, is the Engine Management light on, and if not, does it come on with ign?
Agree with the boy it sound very much like a range switch as i also have never heard of a gearbox ecu failing :y
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when vx checked it they had the ignition on as well as having the engine running, they didnt give me the codes for the box but did write down the fault that was showing [17 present, solenoid 1-2/3-4 voltage low/zero], any other codes showing were in the memory but not active, he also tried a tech1 for some unknown reason but if it made him happy so be it, as for the range switch, is this what i know as the inhibitor switch? also what is sensors 1*1?, im getting more confused than when i started!, so if ive changed the inhibitor switch,g/box & had it tech2 tested & this is telling me fault code 17, what is causing it ?, if a sensor where do i find it/them, ,,,,,cheers,,,,,,,
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when vx checked it they had the ignition on as well as having the engine running, they didnt give me the codes for the box but did write down the fault that was showing [17 present, solenoid 1-2/3-4 voltage low/zero], any other codes showing were in the memory but not active, he also tried a tech1 for some unknown reason but if it made him happy so be it, as for the range switch, is this what i know as the inhibitor switch? also what is sensors 1*1?, im getting more confused than when i started!, so if ive changed the inhibitor switch,g/box & had it tech2 tested & this is telling me fault code 17, what is causing it ?, if a sensor where do i find it/them, ,,,,,cheers,,,,,,,
No No not confusion just one of those twins again Miss direction.
Your ecu cannot be read by tec2 it is tec1. Tec 2 is facelift approx 2000
code 17 you need to find the interpretation. VX says it is the solonoids with either a low or high voltage.
It would have been handy to know the stored codes.
Your AT switch is fed from pins 33. 8. 26. 23. on ecu
Auto trans 54. 38. 41. 40.
Solenoids 2/3 shift up 16. 32.
1/2 & 3/4 43. 48 Which is the one in question ?
Oil Temp Sensor 22. 16.
AT output speed sensor 3. 5. 18
LCD instruments 5.
Winter Mode Switch 12. 13.
Ground 19. 35
Kick down switch 15.
There are more which I have not had time to check as yet.
All these connections feed/ or are fed by other components again I have not had the time.
One way may be you now have a spare switch, remove the connection from the box and connect to your spare. Now with the engine running selecting gear (Moving the switch) not selector check the voltages on the pins given. make sure you have a ground connection to the switch.
What the voltages should be I do not know, but compare to pins 16. 32. the 2/3 solonoid should be approx the same. Bear in mind the output speed switch with no output. May have to give it a feed epecially on 2/3 although pressing the winter mode switch would lock into 3rd gear.
That's enough for you to contend with.
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Hmm, but i think tech 2 can read the gearbox on an early car? i know my tech1 can but TB has read the box couple of times on the wifes ex motor which was an early one too!!!
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when vx checked it they had the ignition on as well as having the engine running, they didnt give me the codes for the box but did write down the fault that was showing [17 present, solenoid 1-2/3-4 voltage low/zero], any other codes showing were in the memory but not active, he also tried a tech1 for some unknown reason but if it made him happy so be it, as for the range switch, is this what i know as the inhibitor switch? also what is sensors 1*1?, im getting more confused than when i started!, so if ive changed the inhibitor switch,g/box & had it tech2 tested & this is telling me fault code 17, what is causing it ?, if a sensor where do i find it/them, ,,,,,cheers,,,,,,,
No No not confusion just one of those twins again Miss direction.
Your ecu cannot be read by tec2 it is tec1. Tec 2 is facelift approx 2000
code 17 you need to find the interpretation. VX says it is the solonoids with either a low or high voltage.
It would have been handy to know the stored codes.
Your AT switch is fed from pins 33. 8. 26. 23. on ecu
Auto trans 54. 38. 41. 40.
Solenoids 2/3 shift up 16. 32.
1/2 & 3/4 43. 48 Which is the one in question ?
Oil Temp Sensor 22. 16.
AT output speed sensor 3. 5. 18
LCD instruments 5.
Winter Mode Switch 12. 13.
Ground 19. 35
Kick down switch 15.
There are more which I have not had time to check as yet.
All these connections feed/ or are fed by other components again I have not had the time.
One way may be you now have a spare switch, remove the connection from the box and connect to your spare. Now with the engine running selecting gear (Moving the switch) not selector check the voltages on the pins given. make sure you have a ground connection to the switch.
What the voltages should be I do not know, but compare to pins 16. 32. the 2/3 solonoid should be approx the same. Bear in mind the output speed switch with no output. May have to give it a feed epecially on 2/3 although pressing the winter mode switch would lock into 3rd gear.
That's enough for you to contend with.
Tech2 from 97 on.
BUT if the same ecu from an earlier car exists on a 97 car, tech2 can deal with it most of the time.
2 things on Omega Tech2 can't do are early 2.0l engine ecus and infrared locking/immobiliser
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heres the report i got,,,,
17,present,,,,solenoid 1-2/3-4 volts low [he said none]
48,n/present, battery volts low
15,n/present, solenoid 1-2/3-4 open circuit
16,n/present, solenoid 2-3 open circuit
56,n/present, selector switch undifined state [i think,bad writing]
39,n/present, no transmission output, rpm signal
92,present, crc control device open or volts high,
so there you have it, just one thing though, if if the car is effectively going into limp mode am i going to get a reading from the switch or only part of it?, im sure this is going to end up being something totally stupid but im too intelligent to find it ;) ;D
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heres the report i got,,,,
17,present,,,,solenoid 1-2/3-4 volts low [he said none]
48,n/present, battery volts low
15,n/present, solenoid 1-2/3-4 open circuit
16,n/present, solenoid 2-3 open circuit
56,n/present, selector switch undifined state [i think,bad writing]
39,n/present, no transmission output, rpm signal
92,present, crc control device open or volts high,
so there you have it, just one thing though, if if the car is effectively going into limp mode am i going to get a reading from the switch or only part of it?, im sure this is going to end up being something totally stupid but im too intelligent to find it ;) ;D
;D ;D ;D ::) :y
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the strange thing TB is that he got my readings from tech2
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the strange thing TB is that he got my readings from tech2
Yeah, expect he would. Much easier to use/read, Tech1 is not so easy to get info out.
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Also, if he didn't have the multiplexor on the top of the Tech1, it wouldn't read the gearbox anyway.
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havent i seen a multiplexor in the ann summers catalogue! ;D
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YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE-HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!, it is now sorted, working, mobile & automatic :y, right then, what i propose is a little sweepstake on this between yourselves, i hold the correct answer to this ongoing saga, once you have placed your wagers between each other & there are no more takers i will reveal the offending fault [or faults], cmon lads & lasses here is your chance to make some money off your pals :D, the answer will be revealed tonight, but remember its not always the obvious ;), so thinking caps on & get gambling, good luck to you all :y & perhaps the losers could donate something in the spares dept to get my abused car looking pretty again. :-*
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engine fault.
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Thank F for that.i bet... Ecu.
Only a pound mind!
Glad you got it sorted Tim. Well done.
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Thank F for that.i bet... Ecu.
Only a pound mind!
Glad you got it sorted Tim. Well done.
I still don't think ECU...
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Dead mouse?
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Thank F for that.i bet... Ecu.
Only a pound mind!
Glad you got it sorted Tim. Well done.
I still don't think ECU...
Yeah, guessed not.
Birds nest then? Squirell eaten the cables?
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Either
1) Bad earth
2) Bad connection at the gearbox multi plug
3) Poorly connected multiplug by the battery
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LADIES & GENTLEMEN,,,,,,,the moment youve all been waiting for,,,,,,,,,,the winner of the omega fault 2008, "bridgeet the envelope please"! [as i open the golden envelope] brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr [role on drums!] the winner is,,,,,,,,,,,THE GEARBOX ECU!, :o :o yes folks the unlikely rank outsider came through at the last to receive the coverted trophy of S,O,T,Y [sh*tbag of the year], my many thanks to all the other likely part candidates to which without them none of this would have been possible, :'( my utmost thanks to my friend in hemel for locating & posting the elusive ECU & brown brothers [cupid green]the hatchet scrappy`s for supplying the said item complete with hacked off plug! & of course my postman, who without his dedication,rusty bike & speedy delivery none of this would have been possible :'(,,,,[at this point a round of applause followed by a standing ovation] :y,i can hear the champagne corks popping as i type!!!!!right! now i can start tidying up this old bus, oh & does anybody want an old ECU!!!!
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seriously folks, thanks to everyone for your help it was much appreciated & i think weve all learnt something today :y ;D ;D
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really pleased for you Tim, and it turns out you were right all along!!! anyway now you have an AR35 in there enjoy having a full complement of gears for about a week, then chipo it and really enjoy the experience and economy of a good diesel !! :y
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LADIES & GENTLEMEN,,,,,,,the moment youve all been waiting for,,,,,,,,,,the winner of the omega fault 2008, "bridgeet the envelope please"! [as i open the golden envelope] brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr [role on drums!] the winner is,,,,,,,,,,,THE GEARBOX ECU!, :o :o yes folks the unlikely rank outsider came through at the last to receive the coverted trophy of S,O,T,Y [sh*tbag of the year], my many thanks to all the other likely part candidates to which without them none of this would have been possible, :'( my utmost thanks to my friend in hemel for locating & posting the elusive ECU & brown brothers [cupid green]the hatchet scrappy`s for supplying the said item complete with hacked off plug! & of course my postman, who without his dedication,rusty bike & speedy delivery none of this would have been possible :'(,,,,[at this point a round of applause followed by a standing ovation] :y,i can hear the champagne corks popping as i type!!!!!right! now i can start tidying up this old bus, oh & does anybody want an old ECU!!!!
Hi Tim,
I would still have bet on something else but still, isnt it nice when it eventually comes together whatever the fault. I could give your old ecu an home. Just to have a look at the innards for future ref.
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thanks OMEGATOY, i will be looking for a chip ASAP but also need interior trim bits [including carpet behind front seats!],also a blue bonnet [dented on nose]as i said this car has been treated bad by the last owner, luckily the owner before him had it serviced up to 131,000 & its 0n 149,000 now & CHRISGIXER there is some people on here that owe you a pound ;D
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o.k JUSTME, i`ll keep it then even though it nearly went under the front wheels after all its put me through >:(, mind you as O`TOY says at least ive got an AR35 box now so its fun fun fun all the way!, ive had a look inside the ECU & nothing obvious but its yours whenever i bump into you or whatever, at least i was right about it being something simple!!!!, now the hard job of getting off the valium :D :D
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thanks OMEGATOY, i will be looking for a chip ASAP but also need interior trim bits [including carpet behind front seats!],also a blue bonnet [dented on nose]as i said this car has been treated bad by the last owner, luckily the owner before him had it serviced up to 131,000 & its 0n 149,000 now & CHRISGIXER there is some people on here that owe you a pound ;D
Waaahaha, yeah they do dont they. Come on pay up...well actualley, i owe them a pound less than i owe them in time help and advise that they have quite willingly and freely given me over the last phew years on here and on the other site. So i still owe them, big time, and thats long before any Tech 2 sessions or wishbone bush pressing that they have helped me with more directly recently.They know who they are... :y
Right, off to the Chip shop for you then Tim? :y
I love a happy ending...
Ps i would love to know what exactly cabbaged that ecu of yours, anybody got a micro scope?
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What engine ECU have you got, 427? The 427 chip is quite good :y
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hi TB, to be honest ive been up to my nuts in g/box ecu`s & havent delved into the engine one as yet, could you explain the difference or the advantage of the different numbers please but will look tomorrow!
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hi TB, to be honest ive been up to my nuts in g/box ecu`s & havent delved into the engine one as yet, could you explain the difference or the advantage of the different numbers please but will look tomorrow!
Its just the ECU type fitted.
Earlier U25DT engines had 214 or 215 ECU fitted, later X25DT had 427 or 428 type fitted.
Its the last 3 digits of one of the long numbers on the ECU.
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i take it they are not interchangeable & is this going to pose a problem if i chip mine up?
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i take it they are not interchangeable & is this going to pose a problem if i chip mine up?
No, not interchangable. Get the right chip for ECU.
I have a 428 in mine (chipped, obviously), its good, but I reckon chipped 427 is slightly better...
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well i`ll have a look tomorrow, i dont suppose these ecu`s come up 2nd hand at any time do they?, its lack of job at the mo so have to count the pennies a bit, plus my car aint pretty due to the last owner, would you believe he cut a square of carpet out behind the drivers seat cos he spilt something & set off the pre-tensioner while he was at it! :o so you can imagine the state of the interior, anyhow thanks for the info & lets hope my luck is changing for the better!
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well i`ll have a look tomorrow, i dont suppose these ecu`s come up 2nd hand at any time do they?, its lack of job at the mo so have to count the pennies a bit, plus my car aint pretty due to the last owner, would you believe he cut a square of carpet out behind the drivers seat cos he spilt something & set off the pre-tensioner while he was at it! :o so you can imagine the state of the interior, anyhow thanks for the info & lets hope my luck is changing for the better!
He sounds lie a psycho, no blood spatter in the back is there?
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no blood spatter CHRIS, just a pair of rusty scissors in the back, but luckily they are stopping the severed head from rolling about ;D
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Congrats for getting there in the end, tim... and well done for sticking by your original diagnosis. Just because something virtually never fails, doesn't mean you're not going to be the first.
I think we all felt your pain...
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well i`ll have a look tomorrow, i dont suppose these ecu`s come up 2nd hand at any time do they?, its lack of job at the mo so have to count the pennies a bit, plus my car aint pretty due to the last owner, would you believe he cut a square of carpet out behind the drivers seat cos he spilt something & set off the pre-tensioner while he was at it! :o so you can imagine the state of the interior, anyhow thanks for the info & lets hope my luck is changing for the better!
If yours has RF type remote locking, you can't just replace the ECU, as its tied to immobiliser.
Unlikely you'll get a chipped ecu anyway, but if you did (and its right type), swap chip over.
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thanks PHIL, i had to go with the suggestions first as i figured that experience is better than a hunch, oh well its chip time now i feel, according to the info ive been given my ecu is a 215 [ive looked & it is], so whats needed now is where to get one unless somebody has got one laying around ;), & does this qualify for the longest post?, if so do i get a certificate ;D
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thanks PHIL, i had to go with the suggestions first as i figured that experience is better than a hunch, oh well its chip time now i feel, according to the info ive been given my ecu is a 215 [ive looked & it is], so whats needed now is where to get one unless somebody has got one laying around ;), & does this qualify for the longest post?, if so do i get a certificate ;D
Best start a new post about chip.
The guy I know does them for £70 delivered, pretty certain he does 215 chips, as I believe thats what Omegatoy runs...
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thanks PHIL, i had to go with the suggestions first as i figured that experience is better than a hunch, oh well its chip time now i feel, according to the info ive been given my ecu is a 215 [ive looked & it is], so whats needed now is where to get one unless somebody has got one laying around ;), & does this qualify for the longest post?, if so do i get a certificate ;D
Best start a new post about chip.
The guy I know does them for £70 delivered, pretty certain he does 215 chips, as I believe thats what Omegatoy runs...
yup and you can just change the ECU when you feel like it !!! ;D
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thanks PHIL, i had to go with the suggestions first as i figured that experience is better than a hunch, oh well its chip time now i feel, according to the info ive been given my ecu is a 215 [ive looked & it is], so whats needed now is where to get one unless somebody has got one laying around ;), & does this qualify for the longest post?, if so do i get a certificate ;D
Best start a new post about chip.
The guy I know does them for £70 delivered, pretty certain he does 215 chips, as I believe thats what Omegatoy runs...
65 quid profit on every one then.....is this the daft bugger who ships them out in old jewelery boxes rather than proper antistatic ones.
Was not impressed with the packaging of the one I fitted on Friday!
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thanks PHIL, i had to go with the suggestions first as i figured that experience is better than a hunch, oh well its chip time now i feel, according to the info ive been given my ecu is a 215 [ive looked & it is], so whats needed now is where to get one unless somebody has got one laying around ;), & does this qualify for the longest post?, if so do i get a certificate ;D
Best start a new post about chip.
The guy I know does them for £70 delivered, pretty certain he does 215 chips, as I believe thats what Omegatoy runs...
65 quid profit on every one then.....is this the daft bugger who ships them out in old jewelery boxes rather than proper antistatic ones.
Was not impressed with the packaging of the one I fitted on Friday!
Mine was supplied in a cut down one of those clear plastic tubes that bulk chips are often shipped in :-/
Never questioned the business model, as I guess the programmers and the maps must have cost money at some point :-/
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so how many outlets are there for these chips?, ive seen the ones on ebay but coming from germany im a bit wary, i agree with M,DTM the mark up is a bit fierce but i suppose when you have the monopoly on them its an invitation to print money,anyhow am i allowed to ask on here how to contact the chip bods? really want to get it done, i take it they are socketed & not soldered, anyhow i`ll probably get told off now cos i should have started a new post on this,,,,sorry :'(
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so how many outlets are there for these chips?, ive seen the ones on ebay but coming from germany im a bit wary, i agree with M,DTM the mark up is a bit fierce but i suppose when you have the monopoly on them its an invitation to print money,anyhow am i allowed to ask on here how to contact the chip bods? really want to get it done, i take it they are socketed & not soldered, anyhow i`ll probably get told off now cos i should have started a new post on this,,,,sorry :'(
I think there are a few places to get chips from. I only know of this guy because he is where I got mine from, and Omegatoy got his from.
I don't want to post his contact details publically, so what I have done for everyone else is forwarded their contact details to the guy, and he calls you direct.
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so how many outlets are there for these chips?, ive seen the ones on ebay but coming from germany im a bit wary, i agree with M,DTM the mark up is a bit fierce but i suppose when you have the monopoly on them its an invitation to print money,anyhow am i allowed to ask on here how to contact the chip bods? really want to get it done, i take it they are socketed & not soldered, anyhow i`ll probably get told off now cos i should have started a new post on this,,,,sorry :'(
Just had mine done, and what a difference it's made. It's just got to be done in my opinion, and you'll be ok with your stronger auto box.
See this post which will explain in more detail what needs to be done and how http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1208771640/0......£70 well spent.
Mick
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what you have to remember guys, is he paid thousands for the chip database he has ,so its not only oour cars he does, but more to the point if you go to dervdoctor or diesel tuning they will charge over 300 so i dont think the price is bad at all, especially as the savimgs in the fuel consumption more than repay the cost of the chip wthin 3 months depending on your mileage,he does it cheap for OOf as a favour to me normal price is around the ton,
so if you think the price is to high dont bother buying try going somewhere else!!!
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fair comment OT, i for one didnt realise how they got this info as perhaps others dont, i think its more comparing the price of the initial IC [which is pennies] to the finished product which we have the benefit of, im sure nobody in OOF would intentionaly go out of their way to deliberately upset someone or indeed slag them off, ive since looked around other places on the net & can now see what a deal this chap is doing, so i say good on him :y
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Locking, as this issue has been resolved. Please start a new thread for new issues :)