Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JesterRT on 21 September 2008, 21:07:30
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Before I make promises that I can't keep - I've read about getting the gearbox and torque converter off, and presumably after that I'd be at the flywheel. The thing I'm concerned about is there's a part in the destructions that say 'turn the crank shaft by hand' to get at some of the bolts. Now my crankshaft may as well be welded up as I've had absolutely no luck moving it, extension bars the lot. Just about put my back out trying to get the thing to turn round.
Is it possible to remove the box etc without being able to turn the crankshaft?
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Can't see a way to do that. could undo the bellhousing bolts, and rip it off, no idea if that will damage TC or seal.
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Before I make promises that I can't keep - I've read about getting the gearbox and torque converter off, and presumably after that I'd be at the flywheel. The thing I'm concerned about is there's a part in the destructions that say 'turn the crank shaft by hand' to get at some of the bolts. Now my crankshaft may as well be welded up as I've had absolutely no luck moving it, extension bars the lot. Just about put my back out trying to get the thing to turn round.
Is it possible to remove the box etc without being able to turn the crankshaft?
Yes it is but it is very messy, it the torque converter is still attached to the drive plate the OIL that is in the TC will run out IIRC.
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Take engine and box out as a unit,take sump off engine,undo conrod bolts,then turn crank ? :-/
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Hmm, ok. How much oil, and how controllable is the spillage? I'll be working on my drive (and will be in trouble if I put any more stains on it :))
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What's the best way to support the box on the way down too? - I've got a couple of trolley jacks, but found they were next to useless when it came to supporting the diff sensibly.
Think I'll get some more substantial axle stands (currently using fairly cheap Draper ones that fold down) Getting less confident with them the more time I spend under cars.
Cheers for the advice...
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difficult to remove box on your own (i have a permanent 2 inch scar from when mine fell on my hand !)
just had a thought,if the sump can be removed while the engine is still in place (?) you could undo the conrod bolts,which would probably allow the crank to turn. :-/
p.s. potentially a fair bit of atf spillage from tc , another reason to have a helper so box can come out in a more controlled fashion. :y
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did yu try engine backwards??? :y
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Any idea why the engine siezed?
If it's bore related it might be worth pouring some diesel into each bore and leaving it for a while. Might free it up enough.
Failing that, I assume the engine is coming out anyway so I would take engine and gearbox out together and separate the two on the ground ensuring that both have plenty of support so the TC is not damaged. Once the bellhousing is clear get a spanner in to remove the TC bolts.
Kevin
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Tried turning the engine backwards. Undid the crankshaft pulley nut, unless I'm attempting to turn the wrong thing? I presumed the crankshaft had the biggest looking pulley near the bottom of the engine (took rad out to get access).
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Any idea why the engine siezed?
If it's bore related it might be worth pouring some diesel into each bore and leaving it for a while. Might free it up enough.
Failing that, I assume the engine is coming out anyway so I would take engine and gearbox out together and separate the two on the ground ensuring that both have plenty of support so the TC is not damaged. Once the bellhousing is clear get a spanner in to remove the TC bolts.
Kevin
iirc, it hydrauliced in a big puddle
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Correct - water intake. Engine seized.
How about taking the head off - can that be done in situ? Might free up things?
Estimated weight on the transmission then?
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if you are careful the g/box will drop with the t/c still on the engine, it would be less messy as long as you drain the g/box first or keep the tail end of the box down,you could syphon the box through the fill hole, ive made a pipe up with some braided hose & cut a bit of metal pipe off an old g/box with a bend in it so it reaches the bottom, ive used clear pipe so i dont get a mouthful ;), its a bit slow but it gives you time for a cuppa :y
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I have one of these ...
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cgg500-500cc-oil-suction-gun/path/lubrication-fuel-transfer-equipment
With careful use it can remove most of the ATF prior to dropping the sumps. for the cost it might be worth a thought ??
:)
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could always try an old external washer pump or fuel pump come to that!, never saw that on blue peter ;D
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Is it the diesel unit....if so then I bet the rods are bent so head off is unlikely to help much!
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If you take the gearbox and engine out when you have taken all the bolts joining the engine to the bell housing can yon not rotate the bell housing around the crank just an idear or am I barking up the wrong tree.
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thinking about it its probably doweled so the answer is no
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why do you need to seperate - thought it was going to scrapper, as engine trashed, once you've nicked all the goodies from it?
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hi JESTER, Ive just realised who you are ;), if you are doing it for my benefit [t/c & bellhousing] then dont worry too much about it, i dont want you to go through all that hassle, im sure another will come up sometime & my epoxy putty is holding good on my bellhousing at the moment & the t/c im o,k with i think. ;)
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Auto gearbox 75Kg TC 13Kg...