Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: matt-sboro on 18 November 2008, 18:10:24
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just picked the car up after having the above work done - seems a bit slugglish - ok seems very sluggish
got home and sat with the engine running - revved the engine and sluggish revving up to around 2500rpm then when it dropped back to idle it seemed to drop too far like it was going to stall
engine man light was on before it went in and he has run the diagnostics and it says upstream o2 sensor fault and downstream o2 sensor fault. think it could be related
any ideas whats up? he thinks the fault codes means the air flow meter in playing up but it wasnt sluggish before it went for the work
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possibly the timings out
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i was hoping it wasnt gonna be that - can do without it having to go back
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to be honest it sounds alot like timing is out... it could just be a tooth out on one side but it still has a bit of a paddy when the timings not right lol!
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is it 4 pot or v6 btw?
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V6 - just been out and tested it with everything running i.e all heaters lights and air con and it seems ok at the mo
fault codes are
mass air flow voltage low 73
mass air flow voltage high 74
a/c cut off relay voltage low 87
how can the voltage be high and low?
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lol maybe the maf's buggered- can happen when it gets contaminated with oil apparently
oh yeah, unless the faults are cleared then it'll show all saved codes until they're cleared again meaning that on seperate occasions you can get a voltage low and then at a later date voltage high
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could that be making it sluggish?
the EML was on before it went in
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hmmm..possibly then getting another maf could help but i'd wait till somebody who knows more about your symptoms comes along- if it runs rubbish then its either timing or miss firing because of oil in spark plug wells(usually) depends how rubbish it runs though obviously
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Wow......stop!!!!!
Right...ignore the maf....its not going to suddenly coincidentaly get buggered when such a lot of work has been done.
Bottom line is that major work has just been done and its this that is far more likely to b the cause.
It sounds possibly air leak.....but I would not rule out cambelt timing.
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EML was on before the cambelt was changed, so do you know what codes were stored at that time?
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any ideas where this air leak is likely to be if it has one?
the EGR valve had a leak when put back together and this gasket was replaced -
it does seem like an air leak because when revving from low down it seems to hesitate (bit hard to describe it) before picking up.
and also when coming to a stop at traffic lights the needle does seem to bounce up and down at idle from 250 - 750 before settling at 400
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EML was on before the cambelt was changed, so do you know what codes were stored at that time?
i never got chance to get out and do a paperclip test before it went so unfortunatly not.
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if you think it's air leak then it could just be the stupidly designed push in icv!
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i could be wrong and a few people have said the timing seems out
its going back as soon as i get 5 mins from carrying the mrs to and from the hospital with the baby
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I have just spoken to matt on the land line and advised him to take it back to the garage that did the work and give them the chance to put it right and check that it is timed properly, then if no joy then to the dealer to check and put right and refund the amount from the original garage. Lets hope that it gets sorted, and the baby is born without any problems tomorrow, so from all oofers all the best for tomorrow "dad"
Gary. :y :y
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i could be wrong and a few people have said the timing seems out
its going back as soon as i get 5 mins from carrying the mrs to and from the hospital with the baby
Just make sure they get the message that it is most likely the belt's out due to their mistake, and it is not an excuse to do other unnecessary work at your expense!! ;)
We all know what garages are like!! ::) ::) ::) ::)